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Diagonal Cutters for Cotter Pins

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Wamsutta

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What's your preference? Currently I'm using a pair of Snap-on 87ACF and while they're nice pliers, cutting cotter pins takes alotta effort.

They have a larger pair called the 388ACF, and then there's the Knipex 74 01 250. Hmm. :unsure:
 
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Beerhippie

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d.mcfarland said:
In no rust Texas, it's isn't easier to just pull them versus cutting them?
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We don't have much in the way of rust out here, either, and it's faster for me to cut and replace than try to straighten, pull, straighten some more, snap one leg off....

Cotter pins be cheap.
 
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dnschmidt

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wantedabiggergarage

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Our preference in this part of the rust bucket, was to bend straight then use the angle of dykes to pull them through, or to use a cotter pin puller. (they are normally grease covered thought)

I think I found a garage sale Knippex pair that I normally used.
 
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KnurledNut

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Wamsutta said:
Knipex 74 01 250
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These are my go-to for most any cutting in the field. Basic and excellent. The forged on axle is long lasting and takes abuse well. The cutting edges are strong and reliable for cutting steel.
 
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Steve_P

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I also have the Knipex 7401250. Never use it anymore since getting the 8" Fantastico which cuts as easy, or easier, due to the design, and it's significantly more compact.

The only drawback to the NWS is that the jaws don't open as much as the typical plier because of the high-leverage design. But if you want to cut cotter pins, then it opens more than enough. You can't go wrong with either, but I prefer the NWS. I know comfort grips are despised by many here, but the NWS ones are fantastic; way better than Knipex.

The NWS shouldn't be viewed as a replacement for the typical 8" cutter, but when you want to actually cut something big, it's the way to go. I've cut hundreds of nails with mine and besides some chrome flaking off the cutting edge, the cutting edges look new.
 
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KnurledNut

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This is one of those questions that there is no one correct best solution. What works for each person will widely vary depending on what they do, the work place and conditions, the type and frequency of cotter pins they encounter, personal ergonomic preference, and any number of other variables.
For instance, I have both the NWS Fantasticos and the Wiha BiCuts, and while they are great pliers for compound leverage, they both **** and are annoying for me to use as general use diagonals. And its not convenient for me to carry multiple diagonals just to have a pair for special use. For me, the Knipex is a more versatile tool. Everyone’s situation and needs for tooling are different, and people largely suggest what works for them.
 
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Sumboodie

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Wamsutta

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The cotter pins I was cutting were only 1/8 in diameter, and I was cutting half of that because two strands make up one cotter pin.

Diagonal cutters with a lot of leverage would be a luxury item.
 
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Schurkey

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The FIRST thing to know about removing cotter pins is how to INSTALL them.

If the world could install them properly, removing them would be a snap.

IF the cotter pin is securing a nut on a swivel-stud--a ball joint or tie rod end or similar--spin the cotter pin hole in the stud so you have proper access to the cotter pin later. I spin the stud using an appropriately-sized Allen wrench, or a common awl.

2021_K2500_BJ_10.jpg

When you poke the pin through the nut and hole in the stud, bend ONE leg up and over the stud, (which puts even more of the cotter pin "in the way" of the castellations on the nut) and cut the other leg off (outside the edge of the nut, of course) without bending. Removal is bending the single leg back down--relatively straight--and pulling the silly thing back through the hole.


But there's always some bonehead who crams the cotter pin into the nut/stud from whatever random direction the stud hole happens to be facing, and then bends the bejezus out of both legs thinking it's somehow more secure.
 
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Wamsutta

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Schurkey said:
The FIRST thing to know about removing cotter pins is how to INSTALL them.

If the world could install them properly, removing them would be a snap.

IF the cotter pin is securing a nut on a swivel-stud--a ball joint or tie rod end or similar--spin the cotter pin hole in the stud so you have proper access to the cotter pin later. I spin the stud using an appropriately-sized Allen wrench, or a common awl.



When you poke the pin through the nut and hole in the stud, bend ONE leg up and over the stud, (which puts even more of the cotter pin "in the way" of the castellations on the nut) and cut the other leg off (outside the edge of the nut, of course) without bending. Removal is bending the single leg back down--relatively straight--and pulling the silly thing back through the hole.


But there's always some bonehead who crams the cotter pin into the nut/stud from whatever random direction the stud hole happens to be facing, and then bends the bejezus out of both legs thinking it's somehow more secure.
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I almost do it the same as you. What I do is bend the long strand of the cotter pin backwards up over the ball joint stud, and then I take the other strand and bend it straight down against the flat side of the castle nut which involves cutting it very short and securing it with a punch and a hammer. I end up cutting both strands doing it that way.
 
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seber

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I learned how to secure a cotter pin by looking closely at hand grenades. Both legs are bent out at 45 degrees and then cut off about 1/8" away from the exit point. This is extremely secure but can be easily pulled with just an awl or if the head is exposed, a pliers. Of course, there is no reusing after this. That is a good thing.
By the way, all those movies that show soldiers putting the pin back in? Not in this life.
 
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johninct

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On most of my cotter pins I am lucky if I am able to get them into the hole because of no space.
 
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seber

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terrific

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Wamsutta said:
I almost do it the same as you. What I do is bend the long strand of the cotter pin backwards up over the ball joint stud, and then I take the other strand and bend it straight down against the flat side of the castle nut which involves cutting it very short and securing it with a punch and a hammer. I end up cutting both strands doing it that way.
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When in doubt, I look up how NASA says to do it, which is as you've described.
I have a feeling the second bend is only to prevent the lower leg from poking you later, though.
 

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Semi-hole mechanic

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seber said:
I learned how to secure a cotter pin by looking closely at hand grenades. Both legs are bent out at 45 degrees and then cut off about 1/8" away from the exit point. This is extremely secure but can be easily pulled with just an awl or if the head is exposed, a pliers. Of course, there is no reusing after this. That is a good thing.
By the way, all those movies that show soldiers putting the pin back in? Not in this life.
Click to expand...
Or throwing them like a baseball, they are way too heavy. Another fun fact, the thrower is also in the “kill” zone of the grenade he threw. The kill zone has a 75m radius and the average soldier can only throw a grenade 50m.
 
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seber

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Semi-hole mechanic said:
Or throwing them like a baseball, they are way too heavy. Another fun fact, the thrower is also in the “kill” zone of the grenade he threw. The kill zone has a 75m radius and the average soldier can only throw a grenade 50m.
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The reason US grenades are the size and shape of a baseball is because every soldier has thrown just that and should have no trouble throwing grenades with the same shape. It is in fact how the military teaches it. You are right though, it must be thrown from behind substantial cover.
 
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seber

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seber said:
Well damn. This site just cost me again.
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The NWS cutter came in yesterday. It was a bit stiff but a drop of oil loosened it up just fine. Very impressive. I haven't tried them on piano wire, but with the extra leverage I'm sure they will do just fine. Up to this point, the only cutters I have found that can cut fish hooks has been the obsolete shear style.
 
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Firebrick43

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Semi-hole mechanic said:
Or throwing them like a baseball, they are way too heavy. Another fun fact, the thrower is also in the “kill” zone of the grenade he threw. The kill zone has a 75m radius and the average soldier can only throw a grenade 50m.
Click to expand...
Hand grenades are one thing that movies show in a very underwhelming manner compared to real life. When we were learning to throw them in MCT they had a wall with bullet proof glass that you could watch after finishing with your throw and I was shocked how bad it actually was.

Also it was a very hot day and we were complaining about have to wait maybe 100 m with the wall between us in our helmets and flak vest when I felt a thump on my shoulder. There sticking out of my flak shoulder pad was a 3/4" piece of hot shrapnel buried in pretty deep. It wouldn't of killed me but wouldn't have been pleasant either.

When I EAS I took a job in an engine factory. They had to set all the valves on half of the cylinders, remove a locating pin and turn it over 360 degrees. They would yell fire in the hole so no one had their fingers in the way somewhere on the engine.

The first time they did that when I started I dove for cover out of instinct which amused every one else greatly.
 
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