Dial Indicator and Magnetic Base Recommendation

[straightcut]

I need some schooling on this after reading threads here and shopping around. I feel like I'm out of my element, so looking for advice. I would like to try my hand at setting a differential or two, adjusting wheel bearings (vintage Land Rover specs recommend a dial indicator) and taking a few readings while working on a few manual transmissions. I'm not a machinist, so don't need to invest in the best, but also don't want junk that's just a waste of time.

Here's what I was thinking of:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/All-Indust...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

Feel free to offer your suggestions on a dial indicator and magnetic base of you feel I'm off the mark.

Thanks in advance for your tips!

 

[darkzero]

Can't go wrong with a Noga. Heck you don't even need something that good for what you're doing but if you don't mind spending the money for it, go for it!

I've got a bunch of Nogas that I use for machining related & I love them all. Except I'm not a fan of their FATs like you linked (fine adjust on top) & sold them. Too sensitive & finicky for my liking. I prefer the FABs (fine adjust on the base).

BTW, All Industrial is a reputable supplier. I actually just placed another order from them this morning.

 

[American Locomotive]

Noga were basically the only thing we used at my old job (at a manufacturing facility). Ours all had the fine adjust at the top.

We also had a couple of SPI 98-358-5 bases for very high precision work, but at nearly double the cost of a Noga, they're a bit overkill for home stuff.

 

[Ricky Joe]

I agree that for the type of work you are doing this or almost any would be fine. I like Ames very much, but have used Central also and found it sufficient. Differential setups and transmission end plays don’t require precision below thousandths. Eventually you will get to where you can get very close by feel, but always check!

 

[straightcut]

... I like Ames very much, but have used Central also and found it sufficient. Differential setups and transmission end plays don’t require precision below thousandths. Eventually you will get to where you can get very close by feel, but always check!

I definitely agree, especially for wheel bearings. Most just torque the wheel bearing, spin the hub, then back it off to where they feel no play (after cleaning and re-greasing) and are just fine.

Thank you for the alternate suggestions!

 

[macgee]

NOGA all the way!

No comparison and makes life so much better. I have about 10+ mag bases laying around and only will use my Noga. Trust me the extra cost is totally worth it, you'll make it back in time saved. Others maybe be cheaper, others might look way cooler but Noga is the best user.


Dial indicators: I have Starrett, Tesa, Inerapid, Mitutoyo, B&S and a couple of other makers. I like using Mitutoyo the most, second is Inetrapid (Swiss). Mitutoyo can be found reasonably.

*** I do have a cheap Digital iGaging dial indicator (1" range) that actually works well and has put up with a lot of abuse while using on rough jobs and has held up well; very handy for metric and zero'ing out, I would recommend this one over a Central. There's now a bunch of similar ones that look the same on Amazon and sell for cheap.

Have to say the Central's that I've come across were very cheaply made, lower quality and not something I would remotely recommend or trust. I've got a bunch of them in the junk pile that were acquired over time while buying other tools, all were out of measurement or broken.

Old pic of the digital iGaging indicator.

 

[Tinner]

You can't go wrong with a Noga. If you're looking for a bargain these are real nice. Our machinist at work (30 years experience) uses them and I got one based on his recommendation.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/SHARS-170LB-UNIVERSAL-MAGNETIC-BASE-FOR-DIAL-TEST-INDICATOR-NEW-A/301954970000

An indicator is a tool I rarely use at home. I have the Brown & Sharpe Value Line, Chinese but they work fine.

 

[dscheidt]

You can't go wrong with a Noga. If you're looking for a bargain these are real nice. Our machinist at work (30 years experience) uses them and I got one based on his recommendation.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/SHARS-170LB-UNIVERSAL-MAGNETIC-BASE-FOR-DIAL-TEST-INDICATOR-NEW-A/301954970000

An indicator is a tool I rarely use at home. I have the Brown & Sharpe Value Line, Chinese but they work fine.

Shars often sell those bases with an indicator in them, for not a lot more. It's a not-very-good indicator, but they're more than good enough for setting axle end play or set up a diff.

 

[Tinner]

Shars often sell those bases with an indicator in them, for not a lot more. It's a not-very-good indicator, but they're more than good enough for setting axle end play or set up a diff.

Yeah, they probably have them that way on their website, if not their ebay store.

 

[Outahere]

Mitutoyo for dial indicator.

http://www.longislandindicator.com/p55.html

...Dial indicator model 2776S (formerly model 2776F) with a 1" range, reading in .0005" is, in our opinion, one of the best indicators for your money. It's consistently reliable, accurate and repairable.

This indicator has a permissible error of .0005" over its first 2-1/2 revolutions and ±.002" over its one inch range. The indicators we've seen astonishingly keep this tolerance to .0005" over the entire range...

Around $120 at Amazon.

 

[straightcut]

I'm wondering based on the comments if I should upgrade the dial indicator. The $15 All Industrial dial indicator...it does seem kind of foolish to be spending $85 on a holder and only $15 on the indicator. Still, I was hoping to not spend $200 just to use a handful of times.

I'll look at the Brown & Sharpe Value Line. Should I stay away from a used gauge in case it's been mis-handled or dropped? I won't have the ability to have it calibrated...

How about this dial indicator:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/MATCO-TOOL...nd=Matco+Tools&_trksid=p2047675.c101195.m1851

Appreciate all of the responses!

 

[darkzero]

Yeah that DI isn't great quality. For what you are doing it'll probably work just fine. If you buy that combo I would get it first & use it. Then decide later if you want to upgrade.

Most of my dial indicators are the jeweled version by Mitutoyo that I got from ebay. Got them for a fraction of what they cost new but I was patient to find ones that were new or like new. I use my stuff for machining related though.

IMO I'd skip that Matco one. It probably won't be any better than the China one included in that Noga package. That Matco one looks like a generic China DI to me & it isn't made by Matco, none of the DIs from tool trucks with their name on it are.

If you want a better DI, stick with name brands like Mitutoyo, Starrett, Compaq, Tesa, etc. B&S indicators are most likely made by Tesa. Even though ebay deals **** these days you should still be able to find a great deal on a used DI.

 

[crewchief888]

FWIW

i have an old CM mag base (purchased in the mid 70's when i started my machinist apprenticeship) and a central 1" travel indicator.

my starret indicator got damaged back in the early 90's, and i never replaced it.

i have a fowler indicator thats sat in my box unused since the early 80's.

 

[darkzero]

If you rather purchase new & don't want to spend a whole lot, Insize is a reputable economy brand. Made in China & won't break the bank at $30. Even comes with a nice case. I've never used any Insize stuff personally but hear they are decent. And from Amazon it's free return in case you don't like it for whatever reason.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CZGUUJ8/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[straightcut]

The advice is very much appreciated!

I found this used jeweled Mitutoyo...and it's local to me! https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mitutoyo-N...299630?hash=item23f1d7afae:g:GPEAAOSwsc5gVkkX

Your thoughts, Darkzero?

 

[darkzero]

The advice is very much appreciated!

I found this used jeweled Mitutoyo...and it's local to me! https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mitutoyo-N...299630?hash=item23f1d7afae:g:GPEAAOSwsc5gVkkX

Your thoughts, Darkzero?

Looks decent but for me I'd look for something else for that price. The Mitu 2416 is probably their most popular DI. "-10" at the end of the p/n means it's the jeweled version. Don't really need jeweled but it'll last longer.

First off, it's the older version but that doesn't mean it's bad. Can tell by the black bezel ring & the older script for the Mitutoyo logo. Also has scuffs on the lens but looks like it could be polished out.

I have 2 of them, the newer version. I Paid $35-$50 for mine which were practically new & in box. I just looked on ebay for the current 2416 listings, nothing is catching my eye at the moment.

 

[darkzero]

Says it's sold now & for best offer accepted. Did you get it & for a lower price?

EDIT: If you did, I think it's a good purchase if you did get it for cheaper. If not, still not bad I guess. My purchases were years ago & I tend to forget about inflation. Just looked at what they cost new now, I remember them being $30-$40 cheaper back then. Ebay used to be flooded with them.

 

[straightcut]

I got hasty and made an offer of $50 + $7 shipping, which was quickly accepted! It's half an hour away, so paying for shipping is worthwhile.

 

[darkzero]

Lol, I've done the same before too!

Yeah, look at my edit above.

 

[straightcut]

HaHa! Haste makes waste! I didn't see your edited comments, lol!

Thanks very much for your help with this. I expect it'll be more than adequate for my use.

Meanwhile, I thought of another use for this. I have an engine to transmission adapter that really should be checked to make sure it is centered about the pilot bearing in the crankshaft. I have a feeling this tool is going to pay for itself in a hurry.

 

[darkzero]

Haha, yeah well my edit was only 1 minute before you posted. Sounds like you are all set!

 

[Ricky Joe]

I should have said that my Central was made in the USA in the 1980s. Not the recent Chinese knockoff, which is junk.

 

[macgee]

I got hasty and made an offer of $50 + $7 shipping, which was quickly accepted! It's half an hour away, so paying for shipping is worthwhile.

Straight,

You did very well! Nice job.

There will always be some cheaper deal out there but the Mitut. you got looks minty with a clean crystal and its a very good mode/dial to have if its your only DI. That one has a big and very readable dial (with reverse # in small print) which will be very helpful for you; this size and type of dial usually commands higher prices compared to other more esoteric sizes and smaller dial types of same caliber so you got a great deal. It also has a lug in the back in case you'll need it but the Noga's can mount to the shaft under the dial.

If it performs like it looks then the price is very good and will serve you well, just make sure to check it's repeat accuracy when you receive it. Enjoy!


PS> Keep one eye out for a plastic protective case that's much smaller and easier to deal with than keeping it in the orig. packaging and will take up less space in a mechanics box. You may want to ask the seller if he has any laying around, most do or you can make one.

Here's my 2416 like yours but older and Noga, try doing that set up with a Starrett type mag base:

Here's just a couple of my more common DI's for you to compare readability with typical shop glare, have a bunch more in another drawer. The 2416 and the digital are the most practical and easiest to read. Have to say Federal DI's are the most robust, cant tell you how many I find that are beat but still measuring very well but they're heavy. I have a Mitutoyo Absolute digital indicator that's crazy accurate (.00000"); too much for normal use. You picked a good one.

 

[darkzero]

Me personally, I don't like to hold DI's by their stem, too awkward for me, although it can come in handy in some situations.

What's cool about the newer Mitu DIs is they have dovetails on them like DTIs do. I've never seen any other DIs have dovetails on them. That's how I mounted my Mitus on my Nogas & used flat backs instead of lug backs.







I held my Mitu DIs like that for years up until last year. I've had this Starrett attachment sitting in a drawer for a long time but never knew what it was for or where I got. It had a 1/4" stem or something like that, AGD indicators have 3/8" stems & that's what most mag base holders are sized for. I made a sleeve for it, dug out the original lug back for my most used DI & that is how I'm using it now. Many people make their own adapters like this.

 

[Mgdoug3]

I have used cheap magnetic bases before and didn't think much of it until I used a Starret mag base. Now Starret and Mitutoyo are what I use first.

 

[catalytic]

Most people who depend on dial indicators now use swiss ones (Interapid or Compac). For most things you want a dial TEST indicator, not a dial indicator. 0.001 or 0.0005" is what gets used the most. There are fakes out there so get it from somewhere you trust. Amazon prices bounce around a fair amount if you watch all of the main models.

NOGA bases are the good stuff. Get the right size---my first was a huge one and I should have sized down (it's indestructible but a bit unwieldy).

 

[RTM]

For most things you want a dial TEST indicator, not a dial indicator. 0.001 or 0.0005" is what gets used the most. T).

For the uneducated about that seemingly subtle difference, what is it? Just the lever vs plunger and smaller range?

Thanks

 

[jayemm]

I only need a dial indicator once in a blue moon, but didn't want a big 0-1" with the big 2" dial face. Ended up with this Shars house brand. I figure if something is out by anywhere near .250, just exactly how much is academic at that point. It's .250" max travel and 0.0005" smallest division. Works for me for the price.
https://www.shars.com/products/measuring/dial-indicators/250-dial-indicator-3

 

[straightcut]

I did go ahead and purchase a new Noga DG10533 magnetic base with FAB (fine adjustment on bottom). Again, I really appreciate the good information several here provided! I ended up 50% over what I was hoping to spend and purchased a better base and dial indicator than I would have had I "just taken a stab at it".

Macgee, thank you for posting the pictures and information on your great collection of dial indicators! Also, seeing your note of appreciation to Carla in your sig line, I want to tell you that one of the reasons for the purchase of this dial indicator is based on a recommendation to me from Carla. Carla was a Series Land Rover owner. On another forum (Guns and Rovers), Carla responded to a post I made about using an aftermarket engine conversion adapter plate. She suggested I be sure to check that the adapter plate was centered about the input shaft pilot bearing. Internally, I thought it would probably be fine to skip her detailed instruction...in part because I didn't have the tools for the job. Later, I found what she said was routine when using an adapter - if you want to do the job correctly. Now, with the tools coming and now that I'm getting ready for that job, I'll take her sage advice.

Thanks again for all of the good information!

 

[bwringer]

For the uneducated about that seemingly subtle difference, what is it? Just the lever vs plunger and smaller range?

Thanks

Likewise. Please edumacate us unwashed rabble about the difference between a dial test indicator and a dial indicator, and why it would matter to someone buying their very first.

 

[macgee]

Macgee, thank you for posting the pictures and information on your great collection of dial indicators! Also, seeing your note of appreciation to Carla in your sig line, I want to tell you that one of the reasons for the purchase of this dial indicator is based on a recommendation to me from Carla. Carla was a Series Land Rover owner. On another forum (Guns and Rovers), Carla responded to a post I made about using an aftermarket engine conversion adapter plate. She suggested I be sure to check that the adapter plate was centered about the input shaft pilot bearing.

Thanks again for all of the good information!

Awesome story and thanks for sharing about Carla. Its nice to hear others have also benefitted from Carla and her knowledge; she really contributed a lot.

I think you you did a great job scoring that set-up, while spending a little more than wanted, that set up will never leave wanting more (it's one of the best combo's possible) and should last you a very long time. If I had to be forced to only have one set-up, that would probably be it. It's A level tooling.
I've got a ton of Swiss made DI's (not pictured) they're excellent but your Mitutoyo DI is a work horse and just as good and very readable (important plus). After you become more familiar with it, you'll use it more often for other things as well. The only other suggestion and back up would be a cheap $25 digital for when needing metric, wanting to do less math or using it in a rough crappy situation where you don't want to hurt your good Mit. But its not really necessary.

Cheers

 

[Steve_P]

I'm not sure why, but there don't seem to be too many good lower priced import indicator stands. I had an HF one years ago and it was absolute junk. I have two older Mitutoyo's, Brazilian made, and they are awesome. I'd like to have a Noga just to have one. These options aren't cheap, but most of the cheap import ones get bad reviews.

For indicators, I have Mitutoyo and Peacock; both made in Japan.

 

[Gunfixr]

For the uneducated about that seemingly subtle difference, what is it? Just the lever vs plunger and smaller range?



Thanks

First, as a machinist, in my day, dial indicators were considered consumables. They eventually are set somewhere where the machine is engaged, something comes swinging around and taking them out, chip strings, etc. The bases survive, the indicators, not so much. Nobody spent hundreds on an electronic or top brand indicator. Only the qc guys did. So, for setting up diffs and such, get what you want, if going to use on a lathe, Mill, etc, you'll cry less over a cheaper one when it smacks the lathe bed or floor.
I even had a box of junked ones I would cannabalize for parts to rebuild with.

Anyway, there are standard indicators, normally with a 1" range of reading. They normally read in a. 001" (non-electronic) increment. There are also 2" and 3" range versions. These are the workhorses, they are larger, and easy to read.
Test indicators are usually more accurate, and only read a very short range. I do have what looks like a normal dial indicator, but reads in 0005", and only has about 1/4" of travel. But, most test indicators either have a push plunger on the back, or a short swing arm on the end. It will cone as a set, with different swing arms, and different mounting attachments. They read a total of + or - 040" or so (080" total), in either 0005" or 00001" increments. They are much smaller, and will fit in fairly tight spaces. While they are good at what they do, their uses are limited. A test indicator would **** for dialing something in in a 4 jaw lathe chuck, for instance.
So, in short, a standard dial indicator has plenty of reading range, and reasonable accuracy for most jobs. The test indicator has very little reading range, but high accuracy, for when it's already close, and you want it perfect.

 

[RTM]

Cool Thanks.

I've got a Starrett 196 which I think may be a larger range DTI and an Alina 88 which I am pretty sure falls in the DTI category based on the short range.

 

[Mgdoug3]

I have a few dial test indicators but I hardly ever use them. They can be handy for centering a bore but I have a hole attachment that fits my dial indicator.

Only time I remember using a DTI is tramming in a vise on my mill. I did see a YouTube video of a guy using a DTI on a lathe to center a piece. He's a pro though and had a quick change tool post just for it. It made me want one but then remembered I have a 0.0001 dial indicator if I need to be exact.