Guys, I need a dial indicator to measure the run-out on the drive shaft of my dodge 2500. Which set do you recommend? Should I get a magnet base or clamp base? Is there a set that includes a roller tip? I would like to keep it under $150. Thanks in advance for your help.
Dial indicator set with roller tip
- Thread starter hotdog68
- Start date
How about a Shars:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/300938766455?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
I've been very happy with the Shars branded products.
Most dial indicators come with a roller ball tip. Magnetic base is more versatile for general work. You can spend much more ie: Mitutoyo and Noga but it doesn/t sound like you need that level of quality. Mitutoyo 2776S dial indicator is one of the best buys for 1" .0005 reading indicator. You can find it at Enco for about $95.00. Noga makes one of the best magnetic bases for about $65.00 to about $140.00. Check with Enco for good pricing.
https://www.use-enco.com/
Enco also has many 20% off sales and sometimes free shipping. Just sign up for thier email notifications to get the codes and sales notices.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/300938766455?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
I've been very happy with the Shars branded products.
Most dial indicators come with a roller ball tip. Magnetic base is more versatile for general work. You can spend much more ie: Mitutoyo and Noga but it doesn/t sound like you need that level of quality. Mitutoyo 2776S dial indicator is one of the best buys for 1" .0005 reading indicator. You can find it at Enco for about $95.00. Noga makes one of the best magnetic bases for about $65.00 to about $140.00. Check with Enco for good pricing.
https://www.use-enco.com/
Enco also has many 20% off sales and sometimes free shipping. Just sign up for thier email notifications to get the codes and sales notices.
i got one of these off the cornwell tool truck.
works good for stuff like brake/wheel runout or truing motorcycle wheels.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JHZ69O/?tag=atomicindus08-20
works good for stuff like brake/wheel runout or truing motorcycle wheels.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JHZ69O/?tag=atomicindus08-20
kunkernator
Well-known member
The harbor freight ones are amazingly good quality, all thou they do not come with a roller tip.
rsanter
Well-known member
for what you are doing you can get one from HF and just buy their mag base as well
why do you need a roller tip/ are you planning to spin the DS at driving speed while testing it?
bob
why do you need a roller tip/ are you planning to spin the DS at driving speed while testing it?
bob
You can also do this with a feeler gauge. Set up an adjustable fixed point that the drive shaft can touch and move when it turns. Turn the drive shaft so that it moves the point with the high point and then turn till you have the max gap and measure it with a feeler gauge.
If you go with a dial indicator think about what you are going to use as a reference point to mount the gauge base to. mount the gauge wrong and you can induce readings that are not driveshaft runout. You could be measuring bearing slop or universal joint looseness. Most driveshafts have a center drilled into the end for setting up between centers to measure runout.
lg
no neat sig line
If you go with a dial indicator think about what you are going to use as a reference point to mount the gauge base to. mount the gauge wrong and you can induce readings that are not driveshaft runout. You could be measuring bearing slop or universal joint looseness. Most driveshafts have a center drilled into the end for setting up between centers to measure runout.
lg
no neat sig line
Starrett and others sell roller tips separately. Just ask before you buy to make sure the manufacturer offers this option. Here's a contact point set from Starrett. I'm pretty sure the roller is available separately.
I was planning to jack the rear and spin the shaft by hand, but can you spin the shaft at driving speed without turning the dial into a projectile?
Thanks for everyone's suggestions
APEowner
Well-known member
By hand is the way to do it. The run-out will be the same either way and doing it by hand will allow you to do it safely and without launching your new indicator.
Most come with a fixed carbide ball tip. I've never seen one with a roller ball and the ones like 2oolHound posted are fiddly to setup. Fortunately a roller is really unnecessary for most applications including the OPs.
rsanter
Well-known member
There are two types of vibration source in a driveline that is not related to balance.
One is a bent driveshaft. For this you only need to turn the driveshaft by hand. The standard dial indicator with the ball is just fine for this unless there is lint of rust pitting or scale on the drive shaft. That's a whole nother issue.
The other is worn out, incorrect, or incorrectly installed Ujoints. For this you just grab each end of the driveshaft and give it a shake.
I guess there could be a third source and that is a worn out busing in the back of the trans housing letting the yolk flop around a bit which would make the driveline flop around and function out of balance
Bob
One is a bent driveshaft. For this you only need to turn the driveshaft by hand. The standard dial indicator with the ball is just fine for this unless there is lint of rust pitting or scale on the drive shaft. That's a whole nother issue.
The other is worn out, incorrect, or incorrectly installed Ujoints. For this you just grab each end of the driveshaft and give it a shake.
I guess there could be a third source and that is a worn out busing in the back of the trans housing letting the yolk flop around a bit which would make the driveline flop around and function out of balance
Bob
rsanter
Well-known member
Starrett and others sell roller tips separately. Just ask before you buy to make sure the manufacturer offers this option. Here's a contact point set from Starrett. I'm pretty sure the roller is available separately.
Oh ****...I have never seen on of those tips
And now I want one....damn you
Bob
Dick in Wisconsin
Well-known member
How can they make any money charging $35 for the magnetic base, the indicator, and the mechanism.
Had Mr. Royesses not said "I've been very happy with Shars branded products" I would have moved quickly past this.
Lugnutz
Active member
Forget wasting your money on a dial indicator (especially a junky cheap one), unless you just really want one? If that's the case, there's a difference between a dial indicator and a dial test indicator, and for checking runout you want the later. Roller tips are never used on a DTI. Do a little research or try to find a machinist to give you a crash course before you spend money on something like this.
If you really think something is wrong with the driveshaft take it to a proper shop and have it checked for straightness and balance, that's what's critical, especially at high rpms.
If you are just trying to figure out a vibration, you can do so by putting the car up on jackstands and running it. Be very careful securing the vehicle. Tires/wheels are the usual culprits, but you can take them off once you've eliminated them and then proceed to the driveshaft test. Make sure you remember to put the lug nuts back on to hold the drums tight if you don't have rear discs.
If you really think something is wrong with the driveshaft take it to a proper shop and have it checked for straightness and balance, that's what's critical, especially at high rpms.
If you are just trying to figure out a vibration, you can do so by putting the car up on jackstands and running it. Be very careful securing the vehicle. Tires/wheels are the usual culprits, but you can take them off once you've eliminated them and then proceed to the driveshaft test. Make sure you remember to put the lug nuts back on to hold the drums tight if you don't have rear discs.
Ramblin Man
Well-known member
Hello Bob, I've had a few driveshafts with water in them. If the customer is a known fisherman to me, and symptom is vibration, and an aluminum driveshaft, I check for it.
There are cheap sets of those also the thread pitch is pretty standard through the industry a cheap set will do the trick
bsaint
Well-known member
If you really want to check it, you dont need a roller tip. I would use a dial test indicator. Interapid.
I have a light vibration at 30 mph. I know its the driveline because I accelerated while the rear was jacked up and the rear tires off. My drums are brand knew. I know it's not the torque converter or the transfer case because I put the transfer case in neutral and accelerated up to 2500 rpms.
What I plan to do is measure the run-out at the front of the shaft and at the end of the shaft. If it's more than .012 on one end but not the other then I will rotate the shaft 180 on the rear flange. If it is the same amount and it is high and low in the same locations, the driveshaft is the problem. If it is the same amount, but the low and high spots have changed places, I have a bad yoke or a bent pinion. If both sides are under .012 then the only thing left is the rear axle.
What I plan to do is measure the run-out at the front of the shaft and at the end of the shaft. If it's more than .012 on one end but not the other then I will rotate the shaft 180 on the rear flange. If it is the same amount and it is high and low in the same locations, the driveshaft is the problem. If it is the same amount, but the low and high spots have changed places, I have a bad yoke or a bent pinion. If both sides are under .012 then the only thing left is the rear axle.
Dick in Wisconsin
Well-known member
I had a severe vibration on the race car at Road America two weeks after running the car at the Milwaukee Mile road course with NO changes to the car; except I have the Jericho transmission overhauled (just bearings and seals) and went from a 4.75 rear gear to a 3.70 rear gear. Tires were the same. Vibration occurred only when I went through third gear and all through fourth gear. Shift knob was a blur.
Called the trans guy who does the rear gears. Said if I ran high RPM in first and second without problem, trouble is not the trans.
One of the veteran racers who I consulted asked if I had another set of tires I could put on the rear. I said, "yes". He said do it.
I did and it solved the problem. Speed at Milwaukee Mile (max 140 or so) wasn't enough to bring out the vibration. But at Road America (up to 165mph) brought out the vibration probably around 150.
I was ready to turn the driveshaft 180 degrees and thought something was wrong with the trans. But problem was tires at high speed.
Called the trans guy who does the rear gears. Said if I ran high RPM in first and second without problem, trouble is not the trans.
One of the veteran racers who I consulted asked if I had another set of tires I could put on the rear. I said, "yes". He said do it.
I did and it solved the problem. Speed at Milwaukee Mile (max 140 or so) wasn't enough to bring out the vibration. But at Road America (up to 165mph) brought out the vibration probably around 150.
I was ready to turn the driveshaft 180 degrees and thought something was wrong with the trans. But problem was tires at high speed.