Dial indicators & calipers

[330Scott]

Hi all.

I am looking for a set of dial indicators & calipers/micrometers primarily for engine rebuilding use. I will have a need for a set soon, but then I could possibly go years without using them again. So in other words I am looking for good quality, but inexpensive at the same time.

Any recommendations for brands & models? Where to purchase such as an ebay store?

Thanks, Scott

 

[Luckydevil]

have you checked www.harborfreight.com

They usually have some decent stuff for good prices. It obviously isn't going to be snap-on or facom quality though.

 

[330Scott]

Thanks, LD. I had checked Northern Tool, but not Harbor. I used the keyword search of "dial indicator" on both sites & they both brought up two items. The HF items both look to be real el-cheapo's, while the NT items were both more than I want to spend. Plus all four were only 1" indicators. Please correct me if I am wrong, but aren't there some type of metering rods that can be inserted into dial indicators to allow a person to check larger bores?

Basically zippo at sears.com also. Guess I'll spend some time checking out the bag.

 

[Luckydevil]

Here ya go, found some more that look pretty good and are a little bit cheaper than Northern Tool... http://www.tavia.com/cat9.html

 

[Wile1Coyote]

You may want to check with your local auto supply store, many of them will rent specialty tools like this at very affordable rates.

 

[Kevin54]

Before you go out and buy new...if you are only thinking you are going to use them a couple of times,...check out your local flea markets or if you have any of the Antique mall / Flea markets that you see along the interstates, stop in and check them out. You can usually pick up brand name micrometers, dial calipers, and dial indicators for pennies on the dollar. And one thing is, when you do purchase them you will find that you will use them more than you think.

Kevin

 

[Satatic]

I been ordering my measuring devices from a local parts store, Fisher auto parts. Made by central tools and I like em. I got a 1 inch dial indicator and I believe it accepts a rod because the tip is removeable. And a set of 0-3inch micrometers. I plan on ordering all that other stuff sometime. Central tools sells it all, what I do is go to their webstie and write down part numbers, then go to Fisher and tehy order them for me. http://www.centraltools.com/

 

[330Scott]

Thanks for all the leads, everyone. Think I am going to pick up a dial bore gage first because I want to check the cylinder bore taper of an engine that I stupidly pulled the heads off. I'll see what I can find from your links, egag and I think that I'll even check the local pawn shops. Never know what I might find there. And I just missed a big swap meet a couple of weekends ago. Figures.

Once again, I appreciate it.

Oh yeah, Wile1, how ya doin'?

 

[zipzip]

Picking up used equipment is a great way to save money, but with gages, make sure you look at the piece very carefully before buying. Look for smooth movement, no sticky points, broken teeth, etc.

Also, consider the fact that the gage has probably been banging around in a box for a while. Dial bore gages should be checked with a master ring. I'd suggest that you let a local engine shop do the measuring if you only plan on doing this a few times. If you plan on using the gage more often, spend the money on a new one of decent quality.

Things like calipers and mics will get used more often so are better to own yourself, IMO. You should pick up a set of "standards" to check the gage on so that you know that you are reading the actual size... I just picked up a 6" dial caliper from Harbor Freight for $20 - that's good enough for what I use a caliper for. For the more accurate readings, a stick mic (for id's) and a set of od mic's are what I use. I was fortunate enough to get those handed down from my grandfather (Starrett).

Ebay may be a good way to pick up a "better" quality brand without forking out the cash...

 

[Wile1Coyote]

Hey Scott! Didn't realize that was you without the avatar.

Good to have ya here man!

How's the Skeeters this week?

 

[330Scott]

Well I stopped into a pawn shop and they had a Mitutoyo 0" to 3" three piece micrometer set for $75. The plastic case was kind of beat up, but the mics appeared to be in good shape. Since I have no basis of comparison, I passed. Good deal missed?

No biggie either way because I have decided to purchase a dial bore gage first and then the mics later.

Ebay, here I come!!!

Wile1, the skeeters ain't biting this week. Maybe around July. (Oh boy, a whole new crop of smilies to play with.) Actually I heard of this site over on Moparts. Maybe it was you who pointed it out. Thanks a lot.

Scott

 

[Satatic]

71 and some change new, with plastic case lined with foam and what not, also smelled really good.

 

[Runner94]

I just want to put in my 2 cents worth. If you haven't found anything yet give Harbor Freight a second look. I've just bought their 6" digital caliper for $15. It comes in a case and with an extra battery. It works real nice. It reads out 3 digits after the decimal point. I also bought a 1" dial indicator a couple of years ago and for the price it works fine. If you can't find any listings at HF follow this link. It will take you to the search and measuring, where you can find all their listings.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Category.taf?CategoryID=551&pricetype=

I hope this might help. The pieces may not be Starrett but they do the job for a reasonable price.

Greg/Runner94

 

[Satatic]

Those prices are nuts. How can they manufacture them for that cheap?? 6.99 for a long range dial indicator. I wish I had a credit card or something ide order like 5 of each.

 

[Wile1Coyote]

Not sure if it was me or not Scott. I followed a link here that someone else had posted, but I have posted about it since so could be. Nice to have a place to discuss just the garage areas!

Cheers Man

Wile

 

[nw2571]

Tooltopia.com has pretty reasonable prices on Fowler stuff if you want something of reasonable quality. For instance:
http://www.tooltopia.com/fowler-72-585-155.aspx

or

http://www.tooltopia.com/fowler-72-008-007.aspx

 

[nissan_crawler]

I also suggest getting a cheapo set of digital calipers for basic use. There's no point pulling out your high dollar ones to measure a bolt or drill bit, and chancing doing something to them. I had mine on the table the other day, and completely covered them in metal grinding dust. OOPS. $9 down the drain, vs. $90.

 

[oldtools]

Before you go out and buy new...if you are only thinking you are going to use them a couple of times,...check out your local flea markets or if you have any of the Antique mall / Flea markets that you see along the interstates, stop in and check them out. You can usually pick up brand name micrometers, dial calipers, and dial indicators for pennies on the dollar. And one thing is, when you do purchase them you will find that you will use them more than you think.

Kevin

Buying used is a good deal, but sometime you do get bad mic or dial indicator. I bought a used Lufkin and a Starrett. I decide to check them on a gage pin. The lufkin is consistently about .030" off while the Starrett is dead on. I think someone put a different spindle on the that frame. .030" is just way too much.

 

[hofferwood]

I also suggest getting a cheapo set of digital calipers for basic use. There's no point pulling out your high dollar ones to measure a bolt or drill bit, and chancing doing something to them. I had mine on the table the other day, and completely covered them in metal grinding dust. OOPS. $9 down the drain, vs. $90.

Right on crawler
Picked these up fer 10 and a 1/2 clams http://www.amazon.com/Caliper-Electronic-Stainless-Steel-Body/dp/B0019O6OCO/ref=sr_1_4?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1292829051&sr=1-4
Ordered some other stuff fer free ship.
Chuck

 

[oldtools]

I also suggest getting a cheapo set of digital calipers for basic use. There's no point pulling out your high dollar ones to measure a bolt or drill bit, and chancing doing something to them. I had mine on the table the other day, and completely covered them in metal grinding dust. OOPS. $9 down the drain, vs. $90.

I have Brown & Sharpe, Starrett, Lufkin, Helios, Scherr-Tumico, and HF micrometers. I only use the HF on non-important stuff (like measuring bolt diameter) and not have to worry about damaging or loosing (loaner tool). Surprising the HF mic is quite accurate, but don't know how long it will last. I have a digital HF caliper that don't last very long at all.

 

[onewaydave]

I see used big name calipers and mics go for very reasonable prices on the bay. Less so dial indicators. Search machinists tools and weed through the trash and you will find quite a bit. I also find a lot on C list.

Dave.

 

[2oolhound]

Thanks, LD. I had checked Northern Tool, but not Harbor. I used the keyword search of "dial indicator" on both sites & they both brought up two items. The HF items both look to be real el-cheapo's, while the NT items were both more than I want to spend. Plus all four were only 1" indicators. Please correct me if I am wrong, but aren't there some type of metering rods that can be inserted into dial indicators to allow a person to check larger bores?

Basically zippo at sears.com also. Guess I'll spend some time checking out the bag.

You're thinking of a bore gage. They have different extensions for different bores. However once the right extension is fitted they still only read small increments. They are used to check oval and other wear patterns to determine if rebore is necessary or piston sizes.

Dial indicators typically measure finer movements like back lash on a differential, valve lift or run out of crankshafts etc.

You can get some decent Chinese ones on ebay at great prices. Mics come with anvils to check their settings. Use the same anvils to check your vernier calipers. Mitutoyo (Japan) are excellent quality. Keep in mind better steels shrink and expand less in changing temperatures so make sure your shop is heated or temperatures are consistent with this cheap stuff.

 

[rodm1]

All good information. I would think he has found a set in the last 4 or 5 years.

 

[hofferwood]

All good information. I would think he has found a set in the last 4 or 5 years.

That's funny
But, I bet it helped someone.
Both feet I jumped in with
My sig explains
Chuck

 

[2oolhound]

I'm a newbie but thanks for pointing the post date out. I'll pay more attention from now on.

 

[nw2571]

I'm the culprit for bringing this one back. Oops, not sure how I ended up finding this post.

Anyway, any comments on the Fowler deals at Tooltopia? I have Mitutoyo's for all of my higher end stuff. Looking for something cheaper, but higher reliability than the typical HF quality stuff.

 

[A_Pmech]

Buying used is a good deal, but sometime you do get bad mic or dial indicator. I bought a used Lufkin and a Starrett. I decide to check them on a gage pin. The lufkin is consistently about .030" off while the Starrett is dead on. I think someone put a different spindle on the that frame. .030" is just way too much.

You need to zero the mic. It takes about 10 seconds.

Loosen the end cap on the thimble. And back it off a half turn. While holding the thimble, roll the spindle forward and lightly clamp a piece of clean writing paper between the spindle and anvil. Withdraw the paper under light tension. This cleans the surfaces of dust.

Now roll the spindle forward until it meets the anvil lightly. Run the thimble forward until it zeros and tighten the thimble end cap.

 

[oldtools]

You need to zero the mic. It takes about 10 seconds.

Loosen the end cap on the thimble. And back it off a half turn. While holding the thimble, roll the spindle forward and lightly clamp a piece of clean writing paper between the spindle and anvil. Withdraw the paper under light tension. This cleans the surfaces of dust.

Now roll the spindle forward until it meets the anvil lightly. Run the thimble forward until it zeros and tighten the thimble end cap.

A_Pmech....Thanks for the tip, but the endcap won't loosen no matter how hard I try. Is there a special technique to loosen the endcap?

 

[Kevin54]

A_Pmech....Thanks for the tip, but the endcap won't loosen no matter how hard I try. Is there a special technique to loosen the endcap?

Some of the mics needs a spanner to adjust them.

 

[A_Pmech]

A_Pmech....Thanks for the tip, but the endcap won't loosen no matter how hard I try. Is there a special technique to loosen the endcap?

Some of them will get mighty stuck over the years, some guys also like to tighten them like they hold the world together. If you have the spanner that came with the mic, it may help in loosening things up, but be gentle. The spanners are easy to shear.

Failing that, a set of soft jaw pliers and a miniature strap wrench can do the trick. Again, be gentle and patient.

The 1800 series Lufkin mics require an entirely different method to zero as they're not mechanically similar to the later styles. To zero them you need the little "friction wrench" which looks like a spanner bent around a piece of small pipe. The friction wrench allows you to grip the collar located at the front of the thimble, on which the thousandths graduations are engraved, and line up the zero graduation with the reference line on the barrel of the mic.

 

[oldtools]

Some of them will get mighty stuck over the years, some guys also like to tighten them like they hold the world together. If you have the spanner that came with the mic, it may help in loosening things up, but be gentle. The spanners are easy to shear.

Failing that, a set of soft jaw pliers and a miniature strap wrench can do the trick. Again, be gentle and patient.

The 1800 series Lufkin mics require an entirely different method to zero as they're not mechanically similar to the later styles. To zero them you need the little "friction wrench" which looks like a spanner bent around a piece of small pipe. The friction wrench allows you to grip the collar located at the front of the thimble, on which the thousandths graduations are engraved, and line up the zero graduation with the reference line on the barrel of the mic.

I was to loosen the endcap with two visegrips (with protective rubber). Zero it out as you recommended. I then calibrated with a 2" and 3" gage pins. It is about .0005" off on the 2" but it is off about .004" on the 3" which is still quite a bit. I won't be using this for any precision measurement.

 

[A_Pmech]

Assuming micrometer and standards are in good shape, it's a practice issue. Zeroing micrometers to a standard is more difficult than zeroing a 0-1" mic.

 

[rodm1]

I'm the culprit for bringing this one back. Oops, not sure how I ended up finding this post.

Anyway, any comments on the Fowler deals at Tooltopia? I have Mitutoyo's for all of my higher end stuff. Looking for something cheaper, but higher reliability than the typical HF quality stuff.

Actually the HF models aren't all that bad if they visually look OK and no gaps between jaws. I used them professionally for several years and still use them for general beaters.