Diamond Grinding? - See Pics

[turbosl2]

I am still up in the air on what product to put down on my floor. I built the house 2 years ago, tommorow and the floor is about 26months old. I take care of it, but never sealed it with the intention i may do epoxy, this is what its starting to do. This started in the winter of last year right under the door. I thought it was because the water pooled up in this location, would slightly freeze then thaw. But now another spot has developed farther away from the door where it never freezes, but my garage floor sees salt from the highways (none from me in the driveway).

I am afraid to do epoxy because it looks like the surface is peeling, and i could peel about 1/16" off around these spots for about a 1 foot circle. These spots are about 5" in diamter

Should i diamond grind the floor prior to epoxy, or just fill over it. Will diamond grinding make it smooth again and ready for epoxy, or is this to far gone?

Or should i just use VCT tile and cover it?

I am really bummed because i have kept it clean and always try to make sure not to spill anything because i knew i was going to do something, it really ***** on a new build.

I would like to get out easy and use racedeck but my area is 860sq feet and i dont have $2500 for a floor.

Thanks for the help.

 

[mobiledynamics]

That looks like concrete spalling.
1 spot - eh
2 spots....I would consider the whole top problamatic
You could just grind and then use SLC to top it. They also DO MAKE SLC that can be used as a topcoat versus a coat to be topped with something else (the majority of SLC)

 

[turbosl2]

What is SLC? Maybe i should just cover it all up with VCT tile, idk

 

[Justanoldguy]

Damn Acronyms ..

What is VCT?

What is SLC?

 

[turbosl2]

Vinyl Composite Tile

The SLC, no idea

 

[mobiledynamics]

Self Leveling Compound. They make some that you can use as topping resurfacers

 

[dcs Inc]

Garage slabs have no air entrainment in it. Thats a chemical additive mixed in the concrete mix to create millions of micro pores and holes. This allows moisture expansion when it freezes. Road salts are really corrosive and thrive on new young concrete. Your surface delamination can be fixed and then the whole slab gone over. This will actually lengthen the life of your slab. gene Elite Crete of Indiana

 

[Edger]

For a coating the minimum should be to grind down to the aggregate everywhere.

 

[JimVonBaden]

VCT is a good choice, depending on what you do in your garage. Even VCT won't cover the surface cleanly if it has significant roughness without putting a filler in it.

Jim

 

[dcs Inc]

After Edger's reply I actually opened the pics and took a close look. The first pic show surface crazing. This is usually indicative of spraying water on the surface to help close it up the slab during finishing. This creates a weak or "soft surface". Mostly caused by getting behind on the finishing and a "quick" fix to create surface cream to finish the concrete. It causes a separation of the surface cream and the aggregate. The surface cracks are because of the paste shrinking.

You are correct fearing applying a bandaid of epoxy over this. Grinding will not cut it. A scarifier would be the tool of choice, then a like grind. Go around the slab with a hammer, pinging on areas that show a lot of this crazing. If you get a dull sound and not a sharp ping, then it needs to come off...... or just wait and let it come off itself. gene

 

[geotek]

My suggestiong mirrors what dcs Inc said. Then place a non-shrink grout of some type into the void. Consider applying a bonding agent to help it adhear.

 

[dcs Inc]

We deal with this type of surface failure all the time. I teach this stuff and it's easy to do. PREP is everything as you don't want to "paint over loose paint". Our overlay system doesn't require a "glue" to hold it down. (bonding agent). It does require getting the surface water to a neutral pH so the hybrid polymers drive them selves deep into the surface. gene elite Crete of Indiana

 

[turbosl2]

I really appreciate the replies guys. I am a little lost on the terminolgy you are talking about. Whats a scarifier? Where do i rent one, an how much does it cost. Seems like alot of work, should i just chip out the areas like this like you mention above, then fill it with a clear epoxy filler, then VCT over the entire thing, seal it, and cover it up. I am just worried about the VCT because i see it alot in schools and at my work, and in the winter with salt the surface finish gets really dull requiring a buff. I really dont want to buff my garage floor all the time.

 

[dcs Inc]

A scarifier basically beats the **** out of the surface removing anything thats loose. Most rental companies have them.

 

[Shawn F.]

I have the same issue as you here but with 3000 sq ft of concrete in my shop!!! Do like mentioned above, it's the only way to do it correct. Drag a chain across on the floor, you will hear where it's hollow or not then chip the sections out with a hammer. As for what to skim it with, I am still lost on which product to go with here as well so am interested on seeing what other opinions/suggestions you get.

 

[dcs Inc]

I have the same issue as you here but with 3000 sq ft of concrete in my shop!!! Do like mentioned above, it's the only way to do it correct. Drag a chain across on the floor, you will hear where it's hollow or not then chip the sections out with a hammer. As for what to skim it with, I am still lost on which product to go with here as well so am interested on seeing what other opinions/suggestions you get.

Well I'm biased on overlay products. Elite Crete all the way. I spent a lot of time on which product I was going to put my name on and I can honestly say it's the best all around choice out there. Now if you don't need to go with a cemetitious product, use an epoxy filler. Easy to make so it self levels. I can offer that info if you are interested. Shoot me an email.
[email protected]

 

[turbosl2]

Thanks, i will shoot you an email regarding how to fill the areas with epoxy filler, what to use, and where to get it.

I just found that lowes does carry VCT for $0.72 a sq ft (or 32.44 per box of 45)
http://www.lowes.com/pl__0__s?Ntt=armstrong+tile&page=4&Ns=p_product_price|0

I ordered about 20 samples from Armstrongs website, its free and i want to see what this stuff looks like

 

[turbosl2]

Does anyone know if you have to sand VCT with a floor sander prior to the waxing? This stuff looks very chalky and i wasnt sure if all the edges would mate up smooth. They dont seem to be beveled like prefinished harwood flooring. I know they put the bevel on hardwood so you cant notice the differences in height, i dont like that idea because all the dirt gets in the groove.
I ask because the safety zone VCT has a texture surface and i cant imagine you would sand that

 

[JimVonBaden]

Does anyone know if you have to sand VCT with a floor sander prior to the waxing? This stuff looks very chalky and i wasnt sure if all the edges would mate up smooth. They dont seem to be beveled like prefinished harwood flooring. I know they put the bevel on hardwood so you cant notice the differences in height, i dont like that idea because all the dirt gets in the groove.
I ask because the safety zone VCT has a texture surface and i cant imagine you would sand that

No, use the Armstrong stripper. No need to sand unless you are going to apply epoxy.

Jim

 

[turbosl2]

No, use the Armstrong stripper. No need to sand unless you are going to apply epoxy.

Jim

Stipper? Are you refering to prior to putting the floor down? I do not have any sealer on my garage floor. I was refereing to after its installed, is it just that level where its smooth and you dont sand the floor tiles prior to waxing and polising?

 

[JimVonBaden]

Stipper? Are you refering to prior to putting the floor down? I do not have any sealer on my garage floor. I was refereing to after its installed, is it just that level where its smooth and you dont sand the floor tiles prior to waxing and polising?

No, the stripper removes the sealant that comes on the tile. You need to remove it before you reseal it.

http://www.armstrong.com/flooring/floor-care/vinyl-care-instructions.html

Jim

 

[turbosl2]

O ok, were talking two different things. I was refering to sanding the tile after its installed, similar to how you install a hardwood floor. I saw on this forum someone did that, and then they polished it.

I take it i dont have to do that.

Would i would like to know is how to get it really glossy without epoxying it. Do you have to rent a electric polisher to get it like that, or can you just mop on the sealer?

 

[JimVonBaden]

O ok, were talking two different things. I was refering to sanding the tile after its installed, similar to how you install a hardwood floor. I saw on this forum someone did that, and then they polished it.

I take it i dont have to do that.

Would i would like to know is how to get it really glossy without epoxying it. Do you have to rent a electric polisher to get it like that, or can you just mop on the sealer?

For a good seal and decent shine, strip and mop on a good sealer. If you want a great shine, strip, seal and wax with a machine buffer.

If you want a very durable shine, strip, sand, and epoxy.

Jim