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Dielectric grease on "cable" connections?

bullnerd

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This just popped into my head, I'm probably way off!

I like to use dielectric grease on most electrical connections on outdoor/auto related stuff.

Would this stuff help cable connections in my basement? I think Im having a signal strength issue right now and I remember talking to a cable guy and he said having open/bad connections will sometimes cause problems.

Can the connections be getting corroded from temperature/humidity swings in my basement?
 
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wyliesdiesels

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How many splitters do u have?

How long is the service drop?

Cable companies have underground lines here with taps underground in a box and they dont have issues with corrosion or signal loss...
 
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bullnerd

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3 splitters. Modem is after one split.

Whats a service drop? From where it leaves the connection on the side of my house or the pole?

Actually we just had an "upgrade" and the Tech added a connection on the outside that wasn't there before. It went directly into the basement into the first splitter.

Yeah, I didn't think it was an issue, just wanted to be sure.
 

Thumper68

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This just popped into my head, I'm probably way off!

I like to use dielectric grease on most electrical connections on outdoor/auto related stuff.

Would this stuff help cable connections in my basement? I think Im having a signal strength issue right now and I remember talking to a cable guy and he said having open/bad connections will sometimes cause problems.

Can the connections be getting corroded from temperature/humidity swings in my basement?

Cable and sat companies have gone back and forth on this for many years, we kept getting directives to use it and then don't use it, most modern fittings are water tight so really no need if they are crimped and tightened properly.


How many splitters do u have?

How long is the service drop?

Cable companies have underground lines here with taps underground in a box and they dont have issues with corrosion or signal loss...

Somewhat untrue that is why when a tech is out on a service call the first thing they do is to start replacing fittings. Personally I never did this hunt and peck process I would check fittings for proper stick out and corrosion.

Older fittings, splitters, wall plates and such had 2 fingers that contacted the stinger on the cable in 2 small contact patches so a small amount of corrosion would cause signal loss.

Modern fittings are more of a split ring so much more contact area and less chance of corrosion and signal loss. These however are more prone to stretching and loss of contact with repeated use.

All splitters and other components (good ones) will list the Db loss for each port but you can figure that each connection has a avg loss of 1.5Db, so when setting up a system you want to balance for this to get even signal to every end component if anything biasing for your modem with the least amount of loss on that line.

In most homes this isn't a big issue but if you do have unused ports either at a splitter or lines then the best course of action is to eliminate these with a smaller splitter or termination caps. The open ports introduce "Noise" in the system.
 

Ariena

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Dialectic grease is a non-conductive material. It should not be used on the actual metal to metal surfaces. It is meant to be used on the outside of the connection to prevent it from corrosion. People make the error of using it on battery posts and then make the connection. It should be used after the connection is made.
 

MFolks

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Go to www.deoxit.com and read the recommendations. It's an electrical contact cleaner/preservative. I've used it for years on the electrical connectors on my motorcycle,cordless phone charging cradles,car, and home stereo system cords.
 

rlitman

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Dialectic grease is a non-conductive material. It should not be used on the actual metal to metal surfaces. It is meant to be used on the outside of the connection to prevent it from corrosion. People make the error of using it on battery posts and then make the connection. It should be used after the connection is made.


This is patently wrong.

Back to the OP's question. Modern compression fittings have watertight o ring seals and grease won't help them. It was of marginal assistance on hex crimped coax, but if you have hex crimps, my advice is to replace them.
 

mjbasford

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All splitters and other components (good ones) will list the Db loss for each port but you can figure that each connection has a avg loss of 1.5Db, so when setting up a system you want to balance for this to get even signal to every end component if anything biasing for your modem with the least amount of loss on that line.

Even the good splitters, a 2-way is usually minimum -3.5Db, a three way is (once again good ones) Either 1 port at -3.5Db and the other 2 @ -7Db, or all three at -7Db.

All the local Cable Co's in this area use Antronix equipment.
www.antronix.com/antronix-Products-Drop-Passives-Splitters.php

Really good stuff. For the F-F Barrels you want are the solid core ones, usually marked with the Blue or green interior. The colors are a brand thing tho, so not the only indicator.

Remember, Barrels are ~-0.5Db loss as well.

Also, while we can discuss all day if Dielectric grease will help make connections last longer, they will not help signal strength in any way.
 
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bullnerd

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"The open ports introduce "Noise" in the system. "

This is how we got talking about it. I did have an open port, but not anymore.

I have some new and some old connections. 24yrs of different techs and me messing with it. All new connectors up to the new modem.

I "think" all the splitters are new. I'll check.

I don't know, It just seems like we lose wifi to the laptop and the tv has a glitch running through the screen every now and then. Don't remember it being there before.
 
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bullnerd

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do you have a modem/routr combo unit or are they separate?

is it on a cable box? if so, what brand/model?

Combo, whatever unit Comcast supplies.

Not sure about the second question. The modem/router is separate from the cable box. The tv is on the cable box.
 

Ariena

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What Is Dielectric Grease Used For?. Dielectric grease is a thick, NONCONDUCTIVE, water-resistant compound that protects electrical components and connections. It also lubricates mated connections, such as spark plugs and the rubber boots that fit over them.

AS PER ASME. Perhaps if the earlier poster had realized this, he wouldn't have called it "patently wrong".

A little knowledge is a dangerous thing.
 
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Thumper68

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Even the good splitters, a 2-way is usually minimum -3.5Db, a three way is (once again good ones) Either 1 port at -3.5Db and the other 2 @ -7Db, or all three at -7Db.

All the local Cable Co's in this area use Antronix equipment.
www.antronix.com/antronix-Products-Drop-Passives-Splitters.php

Really good stuff. For the F-F Barrels you want are the solid core ones, usually marked with the Blue or green interior. The colors are a brand thing tho, so not the only indicator.

Remember, Barrels are ~-0.5Db loss as well.

Also, while we can discuss all day if Dielectric grease will help make connections last longer, they will not help signal strength in any way.

You are correct I meant 3.5 should have checked my post for errors.
 

mjbasford

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Combo, whatever unit Comcast supplies.

Not sure about the second question. The modem/router is separate from the cable box. The tv is on the cable box.

Have they replaced the modem/router during this process?

The second question was for your statement about the tv having some signal issues. is is a motorola box?
 

rlitman

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Even the good splitters, a 2-way is usually minimum -3.5Db,...
Also, while we can discuss all day if Dielectric grease will help make connections last longer, they will not help signal strength in any way.

Physics my friend, you can't get around it. Half the signal level is roughly -3.5dB (because you've split the signal in half).

Correct. Dielectric grease will not help signal strength. It is a crutch to help the longevity of poorly sealed connections, but as I said above, it's not going to help a well sealed connection such as a T&B SnS.

What Is Dielectric Grease Used For?. Dielectric grease is a thick, NONCONDUCTIVE, water-resistant compound that protects electrical components and connections. It also lubricates mated connections, such as spark plugs and the rubber boots that fit over them.

AS PER ASME. Perhaps if the earlier poster had realized this, he wouldn't have called it "patently wrong".

A little knowledge is a dangerous thing.

Yes, a little knowledge sure is a dangerous thing.

Dielectric grease is "dielectric", because it is non-conductive. That means it is the opposite of conductive. Conductive grease would short the connection between the signal and ground and would be ruinous to the signal quality, hence nonconductive grease is used. If you were to use anti-seize grease for example (which is quite conductive) on your spark plug boots, your car would not get very far.

If dielectric grease were an electrical insulator (it is not; it is a dielectric, which is NOT the same thing), then no signal would pass through greased connections. This is simply not the case. I challenge you to show me a 4-wire resistance reading showing a difference in connection resistance on a clean terminal that has not, and that has been greased, and has been properly connected. The grease will not have any effect at all (which is why mjbasford's statement that it will not help signal strength is completely correct).
 

torqueman2002

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The cable signal can be degraded, interference introduced if some of the splitter legs are not connected to a load.

Use a F Type 75 Ohm Terminator, for any leg not connected to a TV, etc ...
 

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cbogg

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When we bought our house, we had terrible problems with the cable. Time warner came out and said sorry you have too many splitters (3) and too much cable buried in the ceiling in the basement. I got them to leave a roll of cable (a lot of companies will do this for you if it means they don't have to waste time running cable) and started ripping things apart (ceiling was stapled in place tile type so that wasn't much of a loss anyway). I went through and put home runs (straight from every connection point back to service drop) whoever there was going to be a possible spot for a tv now and in the future. Bought a good 8 way splitter and a good 2 way. Split my service drop with the two, ran the line for the modem into the two way and another line to the 8 way for the tv cables. I bought my own Thomas and Betts snap and seal connectors, an inexpensive connection tool and the proper stripper. With wall plates (kills me when they come and drill holes in your floor) and the keystones for the cable I was out less than 100$. With a couple weekends invested, all my problems were solved. I did have the tech out to replace the line from the connection on the house to the first splitter (which he couldn't be bothered to run it the way I wanted which would have required an extra 1.5 seconds of his time and approximately 2 more feet of the cable so I ended up redoing myself anyway) because the line coming in looked to be less than rg59 thickness and appeared to be from the early 80's at best.

After he checked the signal and said we still needed an amp to run everything, but couldn't hook it up because there wasn't an outlet nearby, he left one behind and said "you can make cables, I'm sure you can figure this out when there's power there", took off with out bedroom cable inoperative because he said the signal wasn't strong enough. Didn't make sense to me as everything was working great before he came, even with the ancient incoming cable. I went down stairs to double check everything and found he had replaced both my splitters with their own, a two way and a 5 way as that's all I had hooked up to mine at the time (I had the 75 ohm caps on the unused ones). I asked my wife who had been there before I got home and she said he replaced my "cheap" ones with theirs because theirs were better. I went back, found mine he had placed on a shelf, re-installed them, and voila! Perfect reception to the formerly non functioning tv (which happens to be the longest run by several feet). A few weeks later, I ran power to the cabinet I installed the cabling in, hooked up the amp, and no difference. Didn't need it after all I guess.

So, long story short, replace all your questionable cable, split it as few times as possible (try and have your modem on its "own" line to minimize db loss as much as possible). And take your time, it's not as hard as it looks. The same tech that came questioned my cable install because "nobody does it right", spent a half hour before he even started replacing the incoming line, going around and taking apart all the wall plates and other connections to check my terminations. After he was done with that he gave my wife a card and told her if I ever needed a job to call his supervisor. I did it with cheaper tools, nothing fancy, just paid attention to what I was doing. Don't rush it and all will be fine.

Try and use what your cable company uses, it'll help minimize any questions that arise. And don't use cheap cable if you have to buy your own. Most quad shield isn't needed, the newer "duo shield" is just as good if not better, and a bit easier to work with as quad has the extra layer and is slightly stiffer. You also don't need to buy top of the line for most uses, no need to buy 3ghz certified super ultra high end of you just have a few cable boxes and 50gb internet.
 
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bullnerd

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WOW! I was expecting someone to say "don't use the friggin grease" and that would be the last post. LOL!

Thanks for all the tips. I have to do some inspecting now.

The only thing I know is that the modem is after one split, one line right to it.

Thanks cbogg, for typing all that.

Yeah, I just use the grease to keep the corrosion/water down, not a conductor.
 

theoldwizard1

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What Is Dielectric Grease Used For?. Dielectric grease is a thick, NONCONDUCTIVE, water-resistant compound that protects electrical components and connections.
In the "early" years of EFI, all sensor and actuator connections were packed with dielectric grease even though they had "weatherproof" connectors. Over time the "bean counters" won and it was eliminated.

Yes, it is non-conductive, but that is the point. As the male and female connector mate, they wipe the grease off of the contact points. The surrounding grease does not allow moisture to penetrate to the bare metal.

IMHO, any electrical connection that get exposed to a lot of road spray should have dielectric grease on the contacts.
 
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bullnerd

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I wonder if you just have junk ends on the cables?;)

I took some pics. I think I have a selection of connectors from every era!

But, some I've always had and didn't have some of the problems I'm seeing now.

I'm starting to wonder if its just an issue with Comcast in general.
 

mjoekingz28

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WOW! I was expecting someone to say "don't use the friggin grease" and that would be the last post. LOL!

Thanks for all the tips. I have to do some inspecting now.

The only thing I know is that the modem is after one split, one line right to it.

Thanks cbogg, for typing all that.

Yeah, I just use the grease to keep the corrosion/water down, not a conductor.


The stuff is used directly on bulb connections, so....
 

cpttuna

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WE also have a problem with squirrels chewing on the line in my neighborhood. The cable company usually drives the alley behind my house once a month checking signal strength.
 

nehog

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Dialectic grease is a non-conductive material. It should not be used on the actual metal to metal surfaces. It is meant to be used on the outside of the connection to prevent it from corrosion. People make the error of using it on battery posts and then make the connection. It should be used after the connection is made.


This is absolutely correct.
 
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