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Dielectric grease

bmwpower

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I've bought the CRC stuff in a "pressurized" can a couple times and have had nothing but problems with it maintaining "pressure" very early in it's lifespan. Pretty much useless after than

What does everyone else use?
 
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89MustangGX

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Subscribed.

I've experienced the same. I have wondered if the stuff gels up inside, because it seems if I hold the nozzle long enough it will start coming out (and then subsequently not stop and make a mess).

Adam
 

Danglerb

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All I have are those non descript ketchup packets that came with some injector connectors I bought, and a tiny tube of stuff for spark plug leads that was part of a $5 NAPA "tuneup" kit.

I am also looking for a good product though since my car has about a dozen ground points that need annual attention.

CorrosionX was one suggestion, tweek and deox also.
 

Charles (in GA)

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Dow Chemical DC4. Grease in a tube.

Charles

http://www.dowcorning.com/applications/search/default.aspx?R=402EN

http://www.dowcorning.com/content/news/molykote_news_4_Compound.asp

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Diel...293550004_W0QQitemZ190013639490QQcmdZViewItem

efe5_1.JPG
 

Danglerb

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Ouch! Looks like good stuff though, what about the vacuum seal grease kynr or whatever it is?

NEW IN BOX, Dielect Dow Corning 4 grease, electrical insulating compound. This product ahs many applications. Part # 293550004.

Factory retail price $43.99.

Applications: Aircraft, automotive & marine ignition systems, spark plug connections, disconnect junctions, electrical assemblies & terminals, rubber door seals, switches, rubber & plastic o-rings.



--- Contains Silicone

--- Designed to meet MIL-S-8660

--- Provides Moisture Barrier

--- -70 Degrees F to 400 Degrees F
 

jay50

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Ouch! Looks like good stuff though, what about the vacuum seal grease kynr or whatever it is?

NEW IN BOX, Dielect Dow Corning 4 grease, electrical insulating compound. This product ahs many applications. Part # 293550004.

Factory retail price $43.99.

Applications: Aircraft, automotive & marine ignition systems, spark plug connections, disconnect junctions, electrical assemblies & terminals, rubber door seals, switches, rubber & plastic o-rings.



--- Contains Silicone

--- Designed to meet MIL-S-8660

--- Provides Moisture Barrier

--- -70 Degrees F to 400 Degrees F

The $5 tube of stuff at local parts store will work just fine, thank you..:shocking:
 
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bmwpower

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Ouch! Looks like good stuff though, what about the vacuum seal grease kynr or whatever it is?

NEW IN BOX, Dielect Dow Corning 4 grease, electrical insulating compound. This product ahs many applications. Part # 293550004.

Factory retail price $43.99.

Applications: Aircraft, automotive & marine ignition systems, spark plug connections, disconnect junctions, electrical assemblies & terminals, rubber door seals, switches, rubber & plastic o-rings.



--- Contains Silicone

--- Designed to meet MIL-S-8660

--- Provides Moisture Barrier

--- -70 Degrees F to 400 Degrees F

I wonder if my factory GumiPhlege will work? Supposed to be for door seals and the like.

What makes dielectric grease so special? What if you used regular grease?
 
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bmwpower

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The $5 tube of stuff at local parts store will work just fine, thank you..:shocking:

Yea, but he works on planes I believe. Last thing you need is for the electrical connectors for your flaps (or whatever, I know nothing about planes) to corrode. There are probably standards that need to be met for airplanes.
 
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bmwpower

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Gezz ya suppose that the name might be a clue??:lol_hitti

William...

Yea...Which means that it doesn't conduct electricity I assume.

Does regular grease conduct electricity? ...that's the question.
 

Charles (in GA)

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Dow 4 is good for lubing up spark plug wire boots, withstands the temperature and won't carry the spark. Also good for battery terminals, and I fill up electrical connectors with it on cars and it keeps moisture out.

When you asked for a dielectric grease, I figured you were using it on spark wire boots or the like.

Charles
 
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bmwpower

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Dow 4 is good for lubing up spark plug wire boots, withstands the temperature and won't carry the spark. Also good for battery terminals, and I fill up electrical connectors with it on cars and it keeps moisture out.

When you asked for a dielectric grease, I figured you were using it on spark wire boots or the like.

Charles

Yea, I am looking for something to use with electrical stuff. I just mentioned door seals since the Dow stuff mentioned it. And the BMW stuff looks almost like dielectric grease....weird.
 

M3Pilot

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bmwpower- Save you gummiphlege for it's intended use. We can't get it anymore. If you dealer has a tube,stock up.
 

Danglerb

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Kinda looks like any silicone grease might work, but some do have a voltage rating, and meet various mil specs, could just be the others weren't tested.

Just a bit of this kind of stuff on things like door seals can really increase life and effectiveness by allowing the seal to slide against the mating surface.
 
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bmwpower

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bmwpower- Save you gummiphlege for it's intended use. We can't get it anymore. If you dealer has a tube,stock up.

Yea, last time I bought it (several years ago), they told me it was the last tube on the east coast...lol.
 

Junkman

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The factory shop manual that came with my 1926 Buick when I bought it said to use Vaseline in the bulb sockets. I have been using Vaseline ever since, and the lights still work and the sockets haven't corroded. None of this modern fancy new fangled grease for me. Between Vaseline and axle grease, there is nothing that gets stuck on my cars.
 
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bmwpower

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The factory shop manual that came with my 1926 Buick when I bought it said to use Vaseline in the bulb sockets. I have been using Vaseline ever since, and the lights still work and the sockets haven't corroded. None of this modern fancy new fangled grease for me. Between Vaseline and axle grease, there is nothing that gets stuck on my cars.

Yea, but I believe vaseline tends to "melt" under higer temps whereas the silicone based dielectric stuff doesn't.
 

Junkman

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I have only used it in bulb sockets, and very sparingly. It does get a burned brown look to it, but it seems to work. Don't remember exactly when, but I think it was 1967 when Pontiac put the tail lamps into the bumper on some cars, they were having a problem with moisture in the tail lamp bulbs. They sent out a service bulletin saying to coat the bulbs bases first with chassis grease and install. That resolved the problem. Sometimes old remedies are more cost effective than the new product that does the same job.
 

Danglerb

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For that use its just a water barrier, but I would use the synthetic if I had it for the extended temp range.
 

RickP330

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I am just realizing here; if we use a dielectric (non-conducting) grease on electrical connections are we reducing the effeciency of the connections? I always applied it to battery terminals and the like, Plug wires and spark plug leads. Why are we doing this?
RickP
 
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bmwpower

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Corrosion protection.

Which will improve efficiency.

Terminals are still touching, they're just covered for protection.

I am just realizing here; if we use a dielectric (non-conducting) grease on electrical connections are we reducing the effeciency of the connections? I always applied it to battery terminals and the like, Plug wires and spark plug leads. Why are we doing this?
RickP
 

Danglerb

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I am just realizing here; if we use a dielectric (non-conducting) grease on electrical connections are we reducing the effeciency of the connections? I always applied it to battery terminals and the like, Plug wires and spark plug leads. Why are we doing this?
RickP
Grease in a bearing is designed to keep the metal parts from touching.

Grease in a electrical connection is designed to keep the metal parts dry, prevent corrosion, allow the parts to slide against each other, but the contact area should have enough pressure to force a metal to metal contact and that is where the current flows. A spade connection for example has a flat tongue that fits into a sleeve with two "rails", that due to the small contact area have a high enough pressure to force a metal to metal contact.

Without the grease the area around the contact point starts to corrode, and the corrosion works its way into the contact, the resistance goes up so you get heating and voltage drops and eventual failure.
 
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