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Difference in bandsaws, metal vs. wood??

Darren M.

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Aledo Tx
I ran a few searches and didn't find the answer I'm looking for so....

What I'm wondering is: "Is there a difference in bandsaws based upon expected application?" Or, can I use a metal cutting blade in a wood bandsaw?? What are the differences. I've got a line on a saw that I can get for a great price. I just don't know if it will suffice my metal needs. I'm not "into" wood and don't want to waste my hard earned green. The saw in question is a Jet JWBS-1205 / 708901 12" Open Stand Band Saw like the one here on Amazon.com.

Thanks!!
 
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W-Cummins

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Metal cutting band saws run the blade slower than wood cutting saws. There are some that will do both. The better ones have a transmission that has 2 speeds. Wilton makes one as does delta in an upright saw ( I assume that's the type your looking at) I have a powermatic 87 that's no longer made (made in USA and got too $$$ at allmost 10k when they quit making it a few years ago). It's a 20" and has the 2 speed trany and also is variable speed in the 2 speed ranges, blade welder etc. I picked it up for about $1500 in nice condtion.

I just went and looked at the jet it's a wood cutting saw its speed @2700 sfpm is too fast for metal. HSS bimetal blade about 300 sfpm or less in steel is what you want mine goes down to like 75 in slow speed ( needed for thicker harder stuff)

William...
 

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maa139

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West Chester PA
In a word speed. I'm no expert on the ins and outs of cutting metal, but a bandsaw designed for wood spins the blade WAY too fast to cut metal. I think it's something like 2500 ft/sec for a wood saw and a metal saw is around 600 ft/sec - but don't quote me on those numbers. There are things that can be done to slow it down...I'm in the process (although a long process) of converting an old wood bandsaw to cut metal by using a jackshaft. Go to google and search for bandsaw + metal + convert and you'll get a ton of hits...

If the price is right on the saw and you think that you can convert it easily enough, maybe you'll want to tackle the project. My bandsaw was free, so I'm accumulating the parts slowly and someday will have a metal cutting saw.

Good luck.

Matt
 

maa139

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Darren -

PM me your email address. I just found a document describing the process to convert a wood saw to metal.

Matt
 

EvilEye

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Piketown,PA
go to www.toolandfab.com .
they have a thread there thatwill take you elsewhere to show how to convert a wood band saw to metal.

blade speeds are definitely slower.

80 FPM, 120FPM , 150 FPM for metals, and composites.The latest sears tool catalog shows 2 metal cutting bandsaws at 999.00 and up. I just missed a 12" used bandsaw for 170.00 at a local auction that can be converted. I am still looking for a older saw to convert .
 
OP
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Darren M.

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Aledo Tx
Looks like the bandsaw I had my eye on is a good one for wood, not a conversion. Bummer. I'm dieing to get a nice, clean, smooth, cut to work with!!!

maa139 you have a pm.

Thanks guys!!!
 

astroracer

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Keep your eyes open on eBay and check your local papers. I picked up my "metal" cutting saw for $132.00 on eBay. This saw has a 17:1 gearbox on the side of it and I was able to swap out some pulleys to slow it down for cutting metal. After rebuilding the gearbox and buying some pulleys I have about $200 total into it and it cuts perfectly...:bounce:
7431my05-bandsaw.jpg

I have a selection of pulley diameters so I can change the speed from about 87 fpm up to 270 or so.
Mark
 
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Darren M.

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Can you get some pictures of the "guts" ?? I'm really interested in seeing your setup. If you'd rather not post them here send them to stang (at) indy (dot) net.

Thanks!!
 
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astroracer

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Here you go...
new-pulley.JPG

This was a great find on my part. I was expecting to have to build jackshafts and stuff to get it slowed down but, with the reduction type gear box, all of that is unnecessary... If you can find something similar it is a simple process to gear it down.
Mark
 
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Darren M.

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astroracer. Can you upload that picture/attachment to this forum so we can see it too??? :D

Thanks!
 

vonruden

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southern mn
i have a 14" Enco wood cutting bandsaw that i modified with jackshaft to slow it down and installed a metal cutting blade. it's not the best , but it works for me
 

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Climber

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Pelham NH
I need to bring this topic ones again for simple question:
Is the speed of blade IS ONLY real difference between by-metal vs. by-wood?
 

Packard V8

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Is the speed of blade IS ONLY real difference between by-metal vs. by-wood?
No. Think hacksaw blade versus wood hand saw. Hacksaw blades are thin and have between 12 and 40 teeth per inch, depending upon the thickness and hardness of the metal being cut. Wood handsaw blades have 6 to 10 teeth per inch (rip vs crosscut is another discussion.

Wood bandsaw blades may have as many as three large teeth per inch, where metal will have say thirty-two small teeth per inch.

The other factor which separates real metal upright bandsaws from wood saws is strength of frame and guide mechanisms. Cutting thick metal requires quite a bit of blade tension and the frames and guides of wood bandsaws will not always support enough.

The big, heavy tough commercial vertical bandsaws, such as Do-All will cut steel all day, every day with no problem. They also come with blade welders, as cutting steel freehand breaks blades often.

The lighter, weaker home shop wood saws can be forced to cut steel, but they won't like it much. They'll also break blades.

Trying to freehand cuts on round tubing can also be difficult. I clamp it in a vise mounted on a rail in the guide slot and have better luck keeping the cut square and preventing rotation.

Trying to cut stainless can also be a rude awakening. Some stainless alloys eat sawblades like popcorn.

jack vines
 

Climber

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Thanks, that was very informative.
I am considering to make Rikon 10-370 out of Rikon 10-345.
Looks like same frame; Nice bearing guides; Large table; Can change table; And finally adjust speed through pulley system.
 
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