Different Epoxy Coating Question...

[iJeffG]

So, I'm an engineer and usually study things to nth degree to make sure I'm going in the right direction. The garage, a different story. Friday PM, wife insists I do the garage "this weekend". She bloats the ego, and encourages me to "live on the edge, and don't plan". I begged for 30 minutes on the PC (it's a standing joke...I can easily spend 3-4 weeks researching a two day project That's 1/2 the fun.

Anyhow, my wife works in the toxicology department at an auto OEM, and says "just go to Sherwin Williams...we just approved a toxicology request for several vehicle assembly plants. (could have been for the bathrooms, for all I know). Anyhow, if an auto assembly line can use it, why spend my time. Lets go with it!

Well, now that I rolled my first coat of SW Tile Clad HS epoxy...the first of two planned coats, I have to say I am disappointed with how thin the coat is drying. Having now spent several hours perusing...I see that a 100% solids epoxy would be more durable...and look better. Its only drawback appears to be the pot life.

So, now I'm debating. I have not bought the second coat of SW Tile-Clad HS epoxy yet....and my question to the forum is: Amy I being **** for worrying about durability??

I work with electric cars, so very little oil to worry about...but even then, its just a residential garage I wanted to look nice AND be anti-slip. So, do I apply the 2nd coat, and finish with a good Urethane (with shark-bit or similar) ... or go for a 100% solids for the 2nd coat...and then Urethane? I'd also not have to deal with the fumes for coat 2 and th Urethane if I can help it.

Can't promise I'll take the advice, because I have to get this done in the next week (weather permitting)...but I am interested in opinions.

Thanks! And sorry for the long winded question

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

The first coat may have been sucked in by a porous floor.
Second coat may be just ducky.

 

[retfr8flyr]

What kind of floor prep did you do before you put down the first coat? Like Scotty said, the first coat is almost like a primer because the floor ***** it in so much. At this point your choices are to add another coat, or start over, so I think putting down another coat and seeing the results, would be your best option.

 

[benwah]

Jeff,

After reading the PDS which can be found here http://www.paintdocs.com/docs/webPDF.jsp?SITEID=STORECAT&doctype=PDS&lang=E&prodno=B62WZ100 the Tile Clad HS is only 56% solids so yes a lot of it is going to penetrate into the concrete, which is actually not a bad thing. I always suggest thinning your first coat anywhere from 10-20% depending on surface prep (less prep, more thin).

I would call your SW rep and ask them which 100% solids epoxy is approved to go on top of the Tile Clad HS, because their data sheet does not specify. Use their 100% solids epoxy, then an opaque or clear urethane. If you don't want to deal with the fumes of a solvent based urethane ask for an appropriate water based urethane

 

[iJeffG]

Thanks, guys. I'll be stopping by sw on Thursday. I will ask about the 100% solids! but suspect that will also be very pricy compared to 2 more gallons of tile clad hs.

I did clean the floor well, acid etched, and even took a hand grinder to the 10 sq feet where I dropped a gallon of part B . Power washed a couple times in sequence, so hopefully prepped ok. Water did not bead anywhere.

If I buy an extra gallon of poly, can I put this on thicker? Or does it self-level to a thin coat regardless?

Lastly, do color chips adhere/lay flat enough with coatings this thin? I'm only looking for mid-level coverage.

Excited to finish.

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Urethane does not like to be thick and you will have issues if applied too thick.
Chips will adhere but will stick up substantially more than if placed in epoxy, due to the very thin coating.

 

[iJeffG]

Urethane does not like to be thick and you will have issues if applied too thick.
Chips will adhere but will stick up substantially more than if placed in epoxy, due to the very thin coating.

Sorry, I mis-spoke. I meant to say if I buy an extra gallan of EPOXY...would painting it on thicker work out, or would it self-level to a thin coating anyway?

The chips become texture in the urethane, correct? Additionally, I do plan to use shark-bite.

My wife will kill me if this floow isn't significantly les slippery when wet than the original concrete. Thats "all" she asked for

 

[benwah]

How many sq. ft. is your floor?

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Sorry, I mis-spoke. I meant to say if I buy an extra gallan of EPOXY...would painting it on thicker work out, or would it self-level to a thin coating anyway?

The chips become texture in the urethane, correct? Additionally, I do plan to use shark-bite.

My wife will kill me if this floow isn't significantly les slippery when wet than the original concrete. Thats "all" she asked for

Yes, neat epoxy will only build so far.
Relying on flakes for skid resistance is not a good idea.

Your last coat should be a urethane (or similar) with a good anti-skid product added.

There are many levels. Our customers report that our Soft-skid, level fine, works well. 3-4 oz. per gallon or as preferred for proper c.o.f.

Shark bite is good too, follow the instructions provided.




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