Different ratings for different types of lights?

[ride92]

So as a follow up to my previous post, I found the Leviton smart switch and companion remote that says it’s rated at 15amp. But I’m confused on why there is different ratings for using LED fixtures vs incandescent fixtures. Here’s what the discription says:

RATINGS: Requires Neutral Wire; Dimmable LED and CFL up to 600W, incandescent up to 1800W, fluorescent ballast loads up to 15A.

So if I’m using LED or CFL it’s only rated to 5amp? 600w/120v=5amp. But if I’m using incandescent it’s rated at 15amp? 1800w/120v=15amp. I’m not understanding how it makes a difference for a light switch.

Do you think I can run 15 barrina 8ft T8 fixtures off that switch? They say they are 72w fixtures so that’s a total of 1080w. 1080w/120v=9amp. Thoughts?

 

[justsam]

Your T8 fixtures will be a fluorescent ballast load and you indicate the device is rated at 15 Amps for this type load so you should be fine. Did the spec. indicate magnetic or electronic ballast types? Is this a dimmer or just a switch?

 

[ride92]

Your T8 fixtures will be a fluorescent ballast load and you indicate the device is rated at 15 Amps for this type load so you should be fine. Did the spec. indicate magnetic or electronic ballast types? Is this a dimmer or just a switch?

It’s just a switch. I don’t recall seeing anything indicating the type of ballast. I don’t think they have ballasts. These are the fixtures/bulbs I’m getting:

Barrina LED Shop Light, 8FT 72W 9000LM 5000K, Daylight White, V Shape, Clear Cover, Hight Output, Linkable Shop Lights, T8 LED Tube Lights, LED Shop Lights for Garage 8 Foot with Plug (Pack of 10) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RKZFD5Z/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[cybrdyke]

The LED load max is 600w. You shouldn't put 1080 LED watts on the switch.
The reason for the difference is that incandescent lighting is a resistive load and LED lighting is a capacitive load.
The LED shop lights have a Driver inside them. In laymens' terms, that's the LED equivalent of a fluorescent ballast. In this fixture, the driver is very small and it's stuffed inside the strip.

Also, clear lensed tubes are horrible on the eyes. If you can get a frosted lens you'll be much better off.
Good luck,
CD

 

[justsam]

Disregard my comment please. When you said T8, I wrongly assumed we were talking about T8 fluorescent.

 

[ride92]

The LED load max is 600w. You shouldn't put 1080 LED watts on the switch.
The reason for the difference is that incandescent lighting is a resistive load and LED lighting is a capacitive load.
The LED shop lights have a Driver inside them. In laymens' terms, that's the LED equivalent of a fluorescent ballast. In this fixture, the driver is very small and it's stuffed inside the strip.

Also, clear lensed tubes are horrible on the eyes. If you can get a frosted lens you'll be much better off.
Good luck,
CD

I wish I could find the frosted tubes but I haven’t been able to find them in 5000K only 6500k which I don’t want. I might frost the lens myself?

Is there any smart switch out there that would work? Or can I at least use just a regular 15 or 20amp switch?

 

[dutchgray]

Could you use two smart switches with the lights divided into two strings and pair them to the same remote?

 

[billconner]

LEDs have high inrush current. Might well be over 10 times normal operating current, albeit very short duration. In my design work, a 20 amp circuit was good for 2400 watts (non-contiguous) incandescent load, but only 1200 LED. And plenty of breaker trips when LEDs were piled on.

There are ways to limit inrush and in combination with carefully selected breakers, you might be able to I crease the LED load. My quick look into that said more circuits was much more economical. YMMV