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Differential Bearing Puller

Worth buying, or not worth it?


  • Total voters
    17

justinking060310

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Now, I am sure that we have some folks on the board who work on ring and pinions daily -- I was hoping to get some opinions on this clamshell style puller. I have 2 axles to regear(new gears and e-lockers), and would like to learn the skill and perhaps put it to use on the side. The price seems a little bit steep(can be had for $350), however, it appears to be a quality tool.

Does anyone have an opinion on the puller?


Mfr's information(or lack therof)
http://yukongear.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProdID=5277

Review of the unit:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/PR-ARB/articles/Randys_Carrier_Bearing_Puller_Review/


I hope that it is okay to link to Pirate on here... It is just about the only decent writeup I could find.

Thanks for the opinions,
Justin
Semper Fi
 
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W-Cummins

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It looks like a fancy solution, but it still pulls on the cage not the inner race (at least it looks like it did/does on the link you posted) So you still can damage the bearing. I don't really see why it's better than a bearing separator and a bar puller. I guess if you were sloppy with the normal setup you could pull it off center...

William....
 
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justinking060310

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Nov 2, 2006
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William - doesn't this picture show it pulling on the inner race as opposed to the cage - It was my understanding that that was the entire purpose of the tool?

IMG_4493.jpg


I do have a 20ton shop press already, so I could use that if needed. From the research that I have done, some carriers do not allow room to get a 2 jaw puller(or a splitter) under the race. That is where the yukon puller shines - It takes them off and allows them to be reused.

Thanks for the responses...
Justin
 

ricleh

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It is the best tool for the job hands down IMO. It will pull the bearing with no damage if used correctly. I have done 6 diffs with this tool and I wonder how I ever got along without it before.


Rick
 
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justinking060310

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ELROY - that is the type i planned to use, however the e-locker directions specifically state not to use one because it will screw up the electro-magnet -
 

Elroy

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So what is the dam difference between that "real" bearing spreader Elroy posted and that "clam shell" thing that is nothing more than a piece of structural channel bent the easy way??? If you pull on the inner race only you're home free either way.

Besides that, Elroy would bet that channel thing-ie is soft! It would probably work like three times and break or deform.

Bottom line is: you need to find out the reason Mr. Easy Locker is making this recommendation. Be a good mechanic and use the best tool for the job. That big round "nut" on top of your shoulders. DON'T just follow some shop "guide" just because it's written by some expert sitting at a desk.
 
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Elroy

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Look. here is the deal. The word "spreader" implies your going to take that "real" tool Elroy posted. Install it under the bearing and use a impact to "spread" the bearing off the carrier. WRONG

Take that spreader and tighten it finger tight. Just enough to ensure the lip of the puller in under the bearing race. From there, let the HYDRAULIC press do the work of removing the bearing.

That clam shell deal with the screw is a good way to screw things up. Now granted it works fine but for the bucks and the fact you're still fighting a lot of friction in that screw regardless of the thrust bearing. That bearing spreader used properly will work fine at a fraction of the cost.

It's your call, these are just Elroy opinions. Your results may very.:puke:
 
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justinking060310

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I do value your opinion Elroy -- that is the entire reason for the questions...

I do concede that I believe your way is the better/way that i will go. That does raise 2 questions though.

1. Do you (all) have a recommended bearing splitter?

Maybe should be a new post but,
2. setup bearing creation -- If I took a hone to the inside of a bearing in a vise, would that be an acceptable manner of creation?

Thanks for the valuable information!

J
 

Elroy

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...setup bearing creation -- If I took a hone to the inside of a bearing in a vise, would that be an acceptable manner of creation?

What the hell are you talking about?? Honing a bearing.... Come on.

Elroy leaves all "creation" to the good lord. He's the only one qualified to "create"

And NEVER put a bearing in a vice.

Please, Elroy is about to create a :puke:
 

TheToolMan

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I have a OTC bearing puller set that came with 3 sets of bearing spreaders, I have had them for 8+ years and use them everyday working on industrial motors, Never broke one yet, I have the smallest snap on bearing spreader only because it was the smallest one i could find, The snappy ones are WAY overpriced, Dont get me wrong im a Snap-On lover but enough is enough
 

krusty the clown

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Besides that, Elroy would bet that channel thing-ie is soft! It would probably work like three times and break or deform.

elroy, krusty has used this tool many times and he can tell you that it positively the best tool for the job. and he would like you to come and use it to see for yourself. after that we can sit and compare the quality differences between tennesse and kentucky whiskey :thumbup:
 
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krusty the clown

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Maybe should be a new post but,
2. setup bearing creation -- If I took a hone to the inside of a bearing in a vise, would that be an acceptable manner of creation?

Thanks for the valuable information!

J

you wont need setup bearing with the yukon puller since the bearings can be pulled without damage.

if you use a jaw puller there is a chance the bearings will be damaged and you will want setup bearings to make shim changes easier. using a hone will take forever. we had some made using replacment bearings and had them machined.
 
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justinking060310

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What the hell are you talking about?? Honing a bearing.... Come on.

Elroy leaves all "creation" to the good lord. He's the only one qualified to "create"

And NEVER put a bearing in a vice.

Please, Elroy is about to create a :puke:

LOL - SO... you say don't make/use a setup bearing? Won't I destroy my bearings (assuming shim adjustments are required).....

EDIT** - Posted at the same time as krusty - thank you for the clarification... **

Toolman - thanks for the input -- there are a lot of OTC's on ebay right now as well...
 

Elroy

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.......after that we can sit and compare the quality differences between tennesse and kentucky whiskey :thumbup:

Now there is an offer almost too good to pass up. :drink:

I think Elroy and I will go get a Bourbon right now. Whiskey is just that.....

Now Bourbon on the other hand from Kentucky is...............

Elroy's drink

Elroy would look forward to a few splashes over the rocks with the "Krust-Man". :thumbup:
 

ricleh

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Krusty I totally agree with you on the Yukon. Anyone doing serious diff work should be using it. Apparently you and I are the only ones who have actually used the tool. I used to use OTC bearing splitters and I will never go back to them after using the Yukon.


Rick
 

Elroy

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For removing carrier bearings ONLY, Elroy might buy a Yukon. Try using that thing on a axle bearing or a tail shaft bearing and you'll find out real quick how limited the application is.

Elroy stands behind his earlier statement:

That bearing spreader used properly will work fine at a fraction of the cost.
 

Elroy

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I used to use OTC bearing splitters and I will never go back to them after using the Yukon.....Rick

For carrier bearings only, Elroy would agree as well. But then again screw type presses actually **** in the long run. They make hydraulic pullers for a reason.
 

Jeeper

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The yukon puller works by pulling on the cage, however it has provisions to keep the cage from pulling away from the inner race via the adjusting rings. It has two, one to keep against the top of the cage and other consumes the gap between it and the top of the clamshell...both are threaded on the puller body to keep the bearing together. When the adjusting screw is turned it pushes on the plug but pulls on the clamshell which removes the bearing in tact.

Some one had asked why not use a bearing splittler. On the most Dana differentals you cannot get one of those behind the inner race so you will pull the cage and ruin the bearing. Which is troublesome if the diff requires shims under the carrier bearing. Typically your only choice is to use set up bearings (honed out bearing that can slide on and off w/o a press) or a clamshell style puller.

I wish i could rent a yukon puller. 350 is a little steep for me to own it since i wouldn't use it much. Need to regear my Dana 30 on the front of my jeep since i put in the ford 8.8.
 

Elroy

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Elroy has been thinking about this and has a few comments if you please.

First off: It's true that once the side bearing is fully seated on a Dana 60 carrier that access to the back side of the inner bearing race is completely blocked. This is also true of most carriers. So by default you're going to pull the bearing by the cage regardless of what tool you use. This instantly junks the bearing regardless if your using a Yukon or not.

Secondly: Set up bearings. Ya they make life a little easier for the novice but they are not really required. First off, Elroy can't say he has ever seen a shim behind a bearing next to the carrier. And if there was a shim there why wouldn't you simply place another shim there when installing the new bearing. Oh Elroy forgot we want to reuse bearings. Yep go through all that work and reuse the bearing. Elroy don't think so.

Oh you say. But the Yukon pulls the bearing with out bending the cage. Why the hell don't you save the money and just use your eyes. If there is a shim there reuse it. If you have to move the pattern, move the pinion.

Now Elroy never said anything about a slip fit pinion bearing. That is a different story but still not 100% required.

Elroy says piss on that over priced speciality puller. Elroy might do internal ring and pinion work two or three times a year but can't say he has really wished for something other than a standard splitter. Now if ring and pinion work was a regular assignment and the tool was available he'd give it a try but Elroy sure the hell wouldn't spend the coin simply to minimize damage to a bearing that needs to get replaced in the first place. Make sense? It does to Elroy.
 

kythri

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Isn't it SOP to replace the bearings while you're in there?

They aren't THAT expensive, in my experience, and it just seems like good sense to do so - why risk a bad bearing and all the labor required for tear down?

I'd buy whatever cheaply removes the old bearings, and not worry about it harming them.
 

krusty the clown

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Elroy sure the hell wouldn't spend the coin simply to minimize damage to a bearing that needs to get replaced in the first place. Make sense? It does to Elroy.

yes but the idea is to remove the bearings you have already replaced to make an adjustment if your pattern isn't right.

as far as reshiming the pinion instead of the carrier.......once the pinion depth is set the carrier needs to bet adjusted to set preload and backlash. to adjust pinion depth to change backlash would most likely cause the gears to make noise.

that being said.....with the yukon puller you will beable to pull the bearings without damage and reuse them (the bearing you have already replaced with new). while this isn't that important to the guy who is doing an occasional rear end on his own vehicles those of us who do ring and pinions for a living will pay for the tool in increased productivity and savings on bearings you can't bill the customer.
 
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justinking060310

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OK, So I have decided to go against the grain(apparently), and go ahead and order this thing. I am waiting for a response from an ebay seller to my offer(I have a 10% ebay coupon). If he doesn't want to lower the price, I am going to order from:
http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-29660_differential_bearing_puller_tool.htm

I have 4 diffs in the driveway to regear now, so I am going to try it out. I will be honest and say that I am really basing my purchase on BillaVista's review at POR.

ELROY - You will have to let me know when your next R&P install is, and we will have to work something out where I send it to you for the job, and then you can critique it after having used it, Sound fair?

J
 

Jeeper

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OK, So I have decided to go against the grain(apparently), and go ahead and order this thing. I am waiting for a response from an ebay seller to my offer(I have a 10% ebay coupon). If he doesn't want to lower the price, I am going to order from:
http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-29660_differential_bearing_puller_tool.htm

I have 4 diffs in the driveway to regear now, so I am going to try it out. I will be honest and say that I am really basing my purchase on BillaVista's review at POR.

ELROY - You will have to let me know when your next R&P install is, and we will have to work something out where I send it to you for the job, and then you can critique it after having used it, Sound fair?

J


Did you ever order the puller? How did it work?
 
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justinking060310

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I do have it and it worked excellent. I am ashamed to say that in the end I wound up taking the axles to a pro to get them done. Mostly due to a lack of time(got orders to Iraq/Afghanastan for a year). On top of that I did not want to leave my wife with a vehicle that had the potential to fail.

As a matter of fact, I am getting ready to put the puller on eBay today.

Justin
 

miller

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Nov 10, 2009
Messages
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There are way tooo expensive, we can get it for cheap
 
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miller

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There are other sellers for the same stuff and same quality...check ebay for that
 
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stock z/28

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Dec 17, 2006
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Well I just saw this thread.

I have had that style puller for over 20 years and it has been great.

It will also do pinion brgs, but I generally use a press any way.

As far as the set up bearings go, I use them on all Dana's any way, if Im changing a ring and pinion or installing a carrier assembly. Its just so much faster.

I have probably done a few hundred drive axles using that puller and its still in great shape.


I would have to agree with Krustry, on setting the pinion depth first and then the carrier back lash and preload.

Its not as simple as just replacing shims, sometimes you may get lucky but I try and do it right.
 

nissan_crawler

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I've used one, they work great. If anybody (especially somebody that doesn't do it for a living) can set up diff after diff without ever having to change shims, I would love to meet this person so I could either call them a liar, or tell them they aren't setting it up right. I've always put the original shim stack back to start with, and rarely ended up with it being right.
 
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