Diffusion for high bay ufos?

[aliebling]

My workshop/garage is nearing completion and I'm trying to plan the lighting. It's 30'x45' with a single slope roof from 12' to 17'. Uses include woodworking, parking for a single vehicle and a climbing wall (12' high).

I've been testing some high bay ufos and I'm generally pleased with the light they give, but there is glare of you look directly at them. Had anyone added diffusion to high bay ufos? If so, did it work well, what material did you use and how did you attach them.

These are very bright and make great woodworking/"house lights", but I'm thinking of adding a second circuit or softer and warmer lights for other purposes. Any suggestions for this?

I saw the fantastic lighting plans stickied. If there's one that seems applicable, please let me know!

 

[dcg9381]

My greatest regret with UFOs at or above 16' is not adding a dimmer.
We have a 2nd circuit of "string lights" which is fine, but those UFOs, just 5 of them in 2400 sqft - it's like daylight.

 

[kbeefy]

I would add it to mine if it was an option. The only thing I dislike about my UFO's is the glare when looking up.

 

[aliebling]

I've planned for a dimmer, so got that covered. I think even with that some diffusion might help

 

[cybrdyke]

You're absolutely correct about the glare from UFO's. In the industry, we call them glare bombs. There are a few options. Some manufacturers offer glare skirts and diffusers in clear acrylic or spun aluminum. The skirts cut down the most annoying angles of glare so that when you're looking across the room you dont see the LED arrays. As you start to walk into the room, you'll be able to see the LED's glare again. The diffuser, which is longer, pretty much eliminates the glare unless you're directly under the fixture and looking up (stop doing that!).
The clear acrylic is usually prismatic and helps spread the light horizontally to some degree. The aluminum, obviously, re-directs the light downward. Use the acrylic for less contrast and shadows.
The garbage that's sold on Amazon typically doesn't come with an option for a glare skirt or diffuser. Find a real lighting supplier and you'll see some of these options.
Good luck,
CD

 

[Stuart in MN]

Unless you're married to the idea of using UFOs, there are other LED fixtures that may work better. I think 4' strips are the best bet for a workshop, there are plenty of options from reputable manufacturers.

 

[aliebling]

Yeah. I think I'll go with the 4' strips. With my ceiling height the ufos just aren't needed.

 

[aliebling]

Are the lights listed in the sticky "best fixture ever" still the best? That post was from 2019.

 

[bluedog225]

On the glare issue, I’ve had good success spraying things with rattle can frosting paint.

 

[Stuart in MN]

Yeah. I think I'll go with the 4' strips. With my ceiling height the ufos just aren't needed.

One thing to note, unless you need the clearance the fixtures at the high end of the ceiling don't necessarily have to be mounted right up against the ceiling - they can be chain mounted so they hang down a ways. It isn't always needed or useful, but it can give you some flexibility in how you light the space.

 

[sparky 1971]

Yeah. I think I'll go with the 4' strips. With my ceiling height the ufos just aren't needed.

You might want to consider 8' four lamp strips. Half as many fixtures to take out of the box and put together. I try to start between 2 and 4' off an end wall and **** as many 8'ers together as I can and possibly throw a 4' on an end. If the fixtures are running the 30' direction, use three 8', the 45' direction would be either five 8' or more likely four 8' and a 4' if it were up to me

Are the lights listed in the sticky "best fixture ever" still the best? That post was from 2019.

They have my vote for the best. I haven't used those exact fixtures, but a strip light is a strip light.

 

[mm08822]

You might want to consider 8' four lamp strips. Half as many fixtures to take out of the box and put together. I try to start between 2 and 4' off an end wall and **** as many 8'ers together as I can and possibly throw a 4' on an end. If the fixtures are running the 30' direction, use three 8', the 45' direction would be either five 8' or more likely four 8' and a 4' if it were up to me

They have my vote for the best. I haven't used those exact fixtures, but a strip light is a strip light.

Butting fixtures together makes for a simple installation. Also gets rid of the hot spots. Much better than conduit between fixtures or popping cables into the back of each one.

 

[sparky 1971]

Butting fixtures together makes for a simple installation. Also gets rid of the hot spots. Much better than conduit between fixtures or popping cables into the back of each one.

And it's a whole bunch faster! People question the cost, but I just tell them the amount saved on the labor will more than pay for a few extra fixtures.

 

[manwithtools]

And it's a whole bunch faster! People question the cost, but I just tell them the amount saved on the labor will more than pay for a few extra fixtures.

But this is a DIY question, in the case of the OP and most on this board time savings is not really relevant. Their time does not cost what it does to pay a pro, that's why they are DIY'ing to begin with.

 

[sparky 1971]

But this is a DIY question, in the case of the OP and most on this board time savings is not really relevant. Their time does not cost what it does to pay a pro, that's why they are DIY'ing to begin with.

OK. Time savings=$0. If I were to DIY my own shop, I'd still **** the fixtures together. Not because it's way, way faster and easier, but because I will get more light, it will look much better when it's all finished, and I will be able to get into and use the shop much sooner knowing that the chances of having dark spots or shadows has been greatly reduced by choosing not to save a few bucks by skimping on fixtures.

What do you suggest he do?

 

[manwithtools]

What do you suggest he do?

I wasn't offering any suggestion, just pointing out the time savings argument does not equal lower cost for a DIY user, like most on here are.

As far as suggestions, he could possibly do what I am planing and use more UFO's than recommended and make them dimmable. That way I'm hoping to have fewer issues with shadowing or dark spots - and less potential glare. I also agree with the OP that some diffusion on the UFO's could certainly be beneficial.

I have a couple of multi outlet cords that I'll use initially to allow testing the light locations to further minimize shadowing issues. Once it's determined what locations work best, I'll run EMT to outlets placed near the lights.



Not saying strip lights are not appropriate, mine's just another opinion he's free to ignore if he likes.

 

[sparky 1971]

I wasn't offering any suggestion, just pointing out the time savings argument does not equal lower cost for a DIY user, like most on here are.

Time savings may not equate to dollar savings in this case, but time savings has to mean something in addition to having more light. In the post you quoted, I was just making a reference to show how much faster it is; fast enough that a $200 fixture will cost less than me at $110.00 per hour installing them spaced out . It would also save a little bit of money, not enough to offset the cost of the fixtures though, by not having to buy the material to connect them together since it's already there. The end caps of 90% of strip lights will slide into factory slots and become a coupling to hold two of them together. The other 10% will need a 50¢ box spacer/connector to put them together then the wire gets pulled though the fixtures, which are now the conduit. Individually, there has to be something to connect them, whether that's conduit, connectors, and straps or cable, connectors, and straps or staples will be up to the installer, not to mention more trips up and down a ladder if a lift isn't used.

 

[manwithtools]

Somehow, almost every time I post something on the electrical sub-forum I end up asking myself "Why did you bother?"

 

[billconner]

If you design for low glare, you need a lot less light and can see just as well. Plus fewer shadows and less eyestrain. Albeit, a lot more fixtures.

 

[cybrdyke]

......and make them dimmable.

..... I'll run EMT to outlets placed near the lights.

How will you enable the dimming?

 

[manwithtools]

0-10 VDC, fixtures are set up for that. EMT will also contain the Class 2 wiring via a twisted pair cable.

 

[mm08822]

How will you enable the dimming?

Probably outlet not meaning receptacles but a means to breakout with 5 conductor cord.

 

[mm08822]

Somehow, almost every time I post something on the electrical sub-forum I end up asking myself "Why did you bother?"

Cost is more than money. It's degree of difficulty, amount of total hours lost on one project delaying another and the final product usefulness.

Linear lighting is better than point sources (IMO) for task work. Ultimate usage of the space should dictate.

 

[larry_g]

Somehow, almost every time I post something on the electrical sub-forum I end up asking myself "Why did you bother?"

Have you considered using the ignore feature?

 

[manwithtools]

Have you considered using the ignore feature?

Yeah, sometimes I'm not so bright, am I Larry?

 

[cybrdyke]

0-10 VDC, fixtures are set up for that. EMT will also contain the Class 2 wiring via a twisted pair cable.

Most UFO's have 2 cords, one for power and one for dimming. If you are going to plug the power cord into a receptacle that is supplied via the conduit, how are you going to get the dimming cables into the conduit? Just curious.
CD

 

[manwithtools]

Most UFO's have 2 cords, one for power and one for dimming. If you are going to plug the power cord into a receptacle that is supplied via the conduit, how are you going to get the dimming cables into the conduit? Just curious.
CD

These lights are as you describe, two cords. The 120v receptacles will be in a 4" square box. I'll route the 0-10v cords through cord grips in the sides of the 4" boxes. The 0-10V cords on the lights are short, I'll put a two pin Deutsch connector on them to make future replacement easier.

 

[Stuart in MN]

You might want to consider 8' four lamp strips. Half as many fixtures to take out of the box and put together.

I often suggest 4' strips, if for no other reason than they're going to be a little easier to load in the car and bring home from the store, but I guess that's a minor point.

 

[Mr onetwo]

I can't believe that no one asked the most important question.... No pictures, no shop, no lights C'mon, let's see that shop.