Digging post holes....

[Cuda416]

I'm in the middle of finalizing things before my pole barn kit purchase and one of the items on my check list is getting the site prepped. So far the best price I've gotten for digging the holes (24 18" holes, 48" deep) is just $1,150 or just under $50 per hole. Now, that doesn't include leveling the site, just digging the holes. Still, it does't hurt my head too much since to rent a bobcat, auger and have it delivered and picked up would be around $600 before I even sit on it. Then if I break it, well that's probably something else.

Now, I could also rent a tow behind unit and do it myself for $110/day. I've never done any of this so I don't know what I'm setting myself up for. How do the two behind units perform when digging larger diameter holes in rocky soil?

Alternatively, does anyone have any recommendations for people to hire for this work? I'm about 20 miles west of San Antonio if that helps.

-C

 

[jumbojak]

I've never used a tow behind unit but I've bored plenty of post holes using a three-point auger on a tractor. It isn't difficult but takes a bit of getting used to so the holes are straight and in line with one another. You might want to punch a few practice holes to get the hang of it if you decide to do the work yourself.

 

[ItsNemo]

At that price, hire out...worth every penny. Digging holes never goes as smoothly as you hope and is a lot of sweat and effort.

Just make sure you do your own marking for the hole locations.

 

[Cuda416]

I've never used a tow behind unit but I've bored plenty of post holes using a three-point auger on a tractor. It isn't difficult but takes a bit of getting used to so the holes are straight and in line with one another. You might want to punch a few practice holes to get the hang of it if you decide to do the work yourself.

Thanks, I actually I want to dig one to act as a trailer anchor so that might be a good one to do first.

 

[jumbojak]

How do these tow behinds move vertically? That's the trick for a straight hole. You have to let the equipment move as the auger drives down si it doesn't get cocked.

 

[TractorJeff]

Not sure if its the same but the neighbor had a tow behind that was actually fairly easy to "get plumb". It was adjustable left to right and back to front plus when the auger was digging it would pull its self down,

 

[1966chevelle]

Not sure if its the same but the neighbor had a tow behind that was actually fairly easy to "get plumb". It was adjustable left to right and back to front plus when the auger was digging it would pull its self down,

I have used this style before and they are easy. I dug 60-8" holes and 14-12" holes in one day when I installed my fence. When the ground was level I would pin it so it wouldn't pivot left and right. When you starter the hole you want the auger facing into the machine just a few inches crooked then when you go done it will level itself out.

 

[larry_g]

I would have to askyour soil type. It varies and if there are rocks to deal with then all bets are off. My first shop we ran into shale and had to get a variance to have some shallow holes because we could auger through it.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[lakeroadster]

I would have to askyour soil type. It varies and if there are rocks to deal with then all bets are off. My first shop we ran into shale and had to get a variance to have some shallow holes because we could auger through it.

lg

sage advice

Back in Ohio.. we augered post holes with ease.

Here in Colorado on the front range... same story.

Here in the "Rocky" Mountains you use an excavator... rocks. They built a new gas station about a 2 miles from our house. When they dug the holes for the underground tanks the rocks were the size of Silverado pick up trucks.

So, like lg asked, what's the soil like where you live Cuda'?

 

[blair683]

I had my holes done by a local excavating company. I had 16 holes 18" diameter 3.5' deep and they did them all for 190 bucks. The dude showed up with a mini exvavater with a auger attachment. He had them done in no time. I had to keep the auger clean for him and clean up the dirt. Before going this route I rented a tow behind auger. Don't waste your time. The biggest bit they had was 12". It dug the hole great but at 3' deep I had to use a bottle jack to get the auger back out of the hole. I even kept pulling the bit out and cleaning it off. I had a ton of clay though. Your price seems very steep. They literally did all my holes in 1 hour, I made sure the guy didn't even have to get out of the excavater to do manual labor.

 

[Bretny]

With any kind of rock or hard clay those tow behind augers just screw them self in...then your left digging it out by hand. If you dont have rocky soil i envy you and would just hand dig them.

Here we have 4 kinds of "dirt" ledge rock, shale, rock hard clay and 4in of top soil. I have to dig a 6ft wide hole to get a post where i want, dug around all the rocks.

Once hand dug a 55gal drywell 2ft under ground. After the first 2ft i had to use a digging bar just to get loose dirt.

 

[jives]

For my Mini-barn (22 x 22) I needed to bore 18 holes, all 48" deep. Rented a tow behind unit and the first one broke (or was broken). Took back to the rental yard. Got another. It broke on about the 5th hole, each of which took 10 times longer than expected. Any big rock just completely messed things up extends the time frame exponentially.

Took the auger back, called a local excavator guy with an auger on his skidsteer. Cannot remember the cost, but I do remember it was worth every penny. If you are really digging 48" deep, the tow-behind is gonna struggle if you soil has any rocks in it.

 

[driz]

If you know anybody with a tractor why don't you just go get a post hole digger down at tractor supply for about 600 bucks. Those work OK even in the racks as long as they're small and not ledge. A CUT will work fine
Honestly if I was going to spend $1500 getting holes dug I kick in the extra and just put down concrete on the floating slab. It be that much further ahead nanny and you'll be real glad you got concrete ground in there. Sides it's so much easier putting things up off a nice flat square surface that screwing around with those damn polesi've done two of them and I sure wish that done it that way and you can bet the next one I put up is going to be on a slab.


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[Jeepster04]

Bought a tractor supply auger for my ford 3400 and dug my holes. Worked great but I wish I wouldve gotten an auger bigger than 10". Had a 12" and thought it was too big so I took it back...

Its all about what you think you can do but me personally, I wouldnt/couldnt pay someone $1200 to dig some holes. Heck, I only paid $500 to have a guy drive an hour and level the pad off with a dozer...

 

[BoostedOne]

Another vote for the TSC auger on a tractor if you dont have a lot of gigantic rocks. Even if you do have some rocks, it does pretty good. For instance the previous owner of my property worked for the one of the railroads, and must have used his connections to get whatever rocks they use under the train tracks to use as fill! If you go to dig a hole with a manual post hole digger in those spots you wont get anywhere. The auger does OK on it. The hole wallers out because the bit wanders in the rock but it gets through it.
One other thing about the TSC auger is it only goes a hair over 3 foot. But if you are in any kind of dirt, you can knock the last bit out in a few moments with a manual digger.

One thing to keep in mind is what the ground water is doing right now in your area. Here we are getting lots of rain lately so even if its dry on the surface the soil is holding a lot of moisture. If your goal is to drill the holes the day before the concrete truck arrives, if there is a lot of moisture in the soil theres a good chance the holes will have caved. Where Im at, when its bad the hole can cave and be twice as big around(under the surface) and half filled back in in a few minutes.

So when I went to do mine, we actually drilled the holes and set the posts one day, then refilled them. Then when the concrete truck arrived(next day I think) we(me and two other guys) coordinated to quickly dig the holes back out around the posts and back fill with concrete. There was two of us digging and one operating the chute/directing the truck. It took maybe 45 minutes to do all 10 holes. Digging out the backfill is nowhere as difficult as digging the original hole.

 

[Cuda416]

Thanks for the input everyone. Based on what people are saying, I'm taking away two things...

1. $1,150 is too much to pay for digging holes. I get that and think so too, but it's the best price I've found so far. I get the feeling some of these folks are just renting the equipment and having me pay for it. I am waiting on two more bids to do the work. Why is it so hard to find people to do this? Actually, I have a neighbor with a relative who might be able to help so all is not lost yet.

2. Tow behind will be more pain than it's worth, especially if I can get it done.

3. Slooowww dowwwwnnn... I'm getting itchy and that's a bad thing. I'm looking for ways to accelerate the process and that's going to get me into trouble. I do want the holes and site to be prepped before the kit/materials arrive though, which should be in 4 to 5 weeks (once I pull the trigger).

Now, here's a question...

I called "811" and the AT&T and Medina Electrical Coop folks came out and did they "survey" so I wouldn't dig anything up... what they did was less than enlightenling...

I came home and found two marks near a flag about 30 feet behind my house. One was AT&T with an arrow pointing to the rear of the property and one next to it, was MEC, same arrow....

I assume (yeah I know) they are telling me everything beyond that arrow is clear.... If that's true, I'm a little disturbed because I know for a fact, there is electrical buried between the house and a shed about 100 feet away, at the rear of the property . I didn't put it in tho, the previous owner did and it's hot. My request specifically said to check the south eastern quarter of the property but it seems they only checked part of it...

The shop will about 25 feet in front of the shed and offset to the right a little, right in the path of the hot wires.

Am I interpreting those markings correctly?

 

[lakeroadster]

If you know there is power, call them back up and schedule a time or day when you can be there when they show up. Well worth your time.
______________________________________________________________

.....we actually drilled the holes and set the posts one day, then refilled them. Then when the concrete truck arrived(next day I think) we(me and two other guys) coordinated to quickly dig the holes back out around the posts and back fill with concrete. There was two of us digging and one operating the chute/directing the truck. It took maybe 45 minutes to do all 10 holes. Digging out the backfill is nowhere as difficult as digging the original hole.

If you are talking columns for a pole barn, your method is the "Mr. Don't" of post setting.

Concrete goes under the post.. not around it.

Back filling and hand digging would have been avoided by using sonotubes or forms.

You ended up with dirt in the concrete, which means it's strength is questionable.

 

[Cuda416]

If you know there is power, call them back up and schedule a time or day when you can be there when they show up. Well worth your time.

I definitely intend to. I don't want to start digging until I know where the line is. Obviously I don't want to dig "into" it and I might have to "move it so it's not under the building. I'm not confident it was done right to begin with based on the previous owner/builder... There is also a water line I need to have located as well. I'd forgotten about it when I scheduled the original work order. The water line feeds the shed and an animal pen they had out back.

 

[lakeroadster]

I definitely intend to. I don't want to start digging until I know where the line is. Obviously I don't want to dig "into" it and I might have to "move it so it's not under the building. I'm not confident it was done right to begin with based on the previous owner/builder... There is also a water line I need to have located as well. I'd forgotten about it when I scheduled the original work order. The water line feeds the shed and an animal pen they had out back.

That's why you need to be there. The utility locator locates their equipment. The water line you speak of... they won't locate. If a PO ran a power line to an outbuilding.. they likely won't locate that either.

If you are there and ask them, they might. Just depends.

 

[Cuda416]

That's why you need to be there. The utility locator locates their equipment. The water line you speak of... they won't locate. If a PO ran a power line to an outbuilding.. they likely won't locate that either.

If you are there and ask them, they might. Just depends.

Let's say they simply won't do it. What then is the best way to locate the power line and the water line? Start digging?

update, I just read about locators... and renting them.. good stuff..

 

[kmacht]

I'm in the middle of setting about 50 post holes in rocky soil. The 3 point auger on the back of the tractor has so far worked pretty well. It will move most rocks up to about fist size. I have hit a few monsters that required being dug out by my backhoe.

Depending on the soil type you have don't give up on the idea of the tow behind auger. I have rented them in the past before I owned the tractor. They aren't the quickest but can be made to work and are way better than the two man gas augers. The key is to rent an electric jack hammer at the same time. The tow behind unit does really well until it hits big rocks. When you do, just drop the jack hammer in the hole and bust up the rock in the way. The height of the jack hammer is just about the same height as the auger bit. A second person to help you lift the jack hammer out of the hole at the end of the day when your arms are shot helps a lot.

Keith

 

[ishiboo]

Let's say they simply won't do it. What then is the best way to locate the power line and the water line? Start digging?

If a wire was buried with the water line, you can have a locate service do the location on both personal power lines and the water line. Local electricians often have the equipment, or a company like USIC.

(24) 18" holes 4' deep in rocky soil is definitely the job for a skid loader auger and not a tow-behind. You could get away with a 3-point tractor unit, but I wouldn't even consider anything less. Who is doing the dirt work/site prep? Won't they also dig holes for you? $50/hole is a lot... I can see if they were coming out and doing 5 holes it makes a lot more sense, but for 24 holes you should be about half that unless they have significant travel time.

 

[lakeroadster]

Let's say they simply won't do it. What then is the best way to locate the power line and the water line? Start digging?

The power line can be traced with the correct equipment. Check your local rental place.

Is the water line steel pipe or plastic? If it's plastic, and doesn't have a tracer wire running beside it, it's untraceable. Gas companies use plastic lines, but they run a wire along side of the plastic so the line can be found.

 

[cre73]

I purchased a cheap locator off of amazon that has worked pretty well. Might be what you need for the other lines on your property. it has came in handy helping friends out also.

 

[blair683]

If you can't find a cheaper deal on the holes. I would find a local farmer or someone with a small tractor and tell them you will buy them the auger attachment if they dig your holes. Seems like a screaming deal for someone and you will have holes for half the price. If you do the prep of setting up batter board and string and mark where your posts go. Someone can come with a tractor and have them holes done in 4 hours easy. If you pay that $1200 you will be sick when you see that dude auger your holes in one hour. That is 1200 bucks an hour!

 

[Cuda416]

I'm in the middle of setting about 50 post holes in rocky soil. The 3 point auger on the back of the tractor has so far worked pretty well. It will move most rocks up to about fist size. I have hit a few monsters that required being dug out by my backhoe.

Depending on the soil type you have don't give up on the idea of the tow behind auger. I have rented them in the past before I owned the tractor. They aren't the quickest but can be made to work and are way better than the two man gas augers. The key is to rent an electric jack hammer at the same time. The tow behind unit does really well until it hits big rocks. When you do, just drop the jack hammer in the hole and bust up the rock in the way. The height of the jack hammer is just about the same height as the auger bit. A second person to help you lift the jack hammer out of the hole at the end of the day when your arms are shot helps a lot.

Keith

I believe it to be dirt and rock (fist size) but I've never dug into it. Just going by what the neighbor had in his yard. we're both on old farm land.

If a wire was buried with the water line, you can have a locate service do the location on both personal power lines and the water line. Local electricians often have the equipment, or a company like USIC.

No idea of the tracer wire was placed, hopefully so.

The power line can be traced with the correct equipment. Check your local rental place.

Is the water line steel pipe or plastic? If it's plastic, and doesn't have a tracer wire running beside it, it's untraceable. Gas companies use plastic lines, but they run a wire along side of the plastic so the line can be found.

I've seen units that are akin to sonar or radar but I don't know if i can rent those and wouldn't know how to use them anyway.

I purchased a cheap locator off of amazon that has worked pretty well. Might be what you need for the other lines on your property. it has came in handy helping friends out also.

Do you have a model number?

If you can't find a cheaper deal on the holes. I would find a local farmer or someone with a small tractor and tell them you will buy them the auger attachment if they dig your holes. Seems like a screaming deal for someone and you will have holes for half the price. If you do the prep of setting up batter board and string and mark where your posts go. Someone can come with a tractor and have them holes done in 4 hours easy. If you pay that $1200 you will be sick when you see that dude auger your holes in one hour. That is 1200 bucks an hour!

Yeah, i don't mind paying someone for work, but I don't like getting fleeced. Sounds like that's what might close to my current situation. The $1150 was just for the holes. Maybe if I tell the guy he needs to prep the site too.. can't hurt to ask

 

[BoostedOne]

If you are talking columns for a pole barn, your method is the "Mr. Don't" of post setting.

Concrete goes under the post.. not around it.

Back filling and hand digging would have been avoided by using sonotubes or forms.

You ended up with dirt in the concrete, which means it's strength is questionable.

Im fine with it. They were 2-3 foot diameter holes for 6x6's. If the outer inch or two of concrete has dirt in it, "Ah well". Per the guy who designed the system, the main reason for the concrete is to prevent the wind from sucking the posts out of the ground. Hell, many people here just drive the posts in like fence posts.

I agree that having the post not sit to the bottom of the hole would have been better. And now that i think about it, I think we actually might have yanked the poles out then reset and plumbed them. I dont remember. It was a few years ago and it was a mad dash.

Hurricane Irma payed us a visit. So far so good.

 

[BoostedOne]

If you can't find a cheaper deal on the holes. I would find a local farmer or someone with a small tractor and tell them you will buy them the auger attachment if they dig your holes. Seems like a screaming deal for someone and you will have holes for half the price. If you do the prep of setting up batter board and string and mark where your posts go. Someone can come with a tractor and have them holes done in 4 hours easy. If you pay that $1200 you will be sick when you see that dude auger your holes in one hour. That is 1200 bucks an hour!

Hell, the auger and the bit is about 700, LOL.. Id rent a tractor first! Home Depot rents one a couple hundred a day. After the job, save the auger for other stuff if you will be doing long fence runs, or sell it on Craiglist for a $150 loss.

I couldnt bear myself to ask a neighbor to give me an auger to do the work. If I didnt have one and he was going to buy one, maybe some fuel and a few cases of beer for my time and the wear on the machine, but Id about feel bad taking an attachment of that value for that kind of effort.

 

[BigT69]

Try to find a ranch type fence builder. Ask them to do it in between jobs or on a Saturday. If you were 20 miles east of San Antonio I would do it for half that. You might also look into renting a skid steer with an auger.

 

[achirdo]

Just did this up near the red River 2 months ago. Skid steer, auger attachment, and trailer was like $400 OTD at the rental place. Took me all of 30 minutes to dig 18 2'x3' holes

 

[Cuda416]

Try to find a ranch type fence builder. Ask them to do it in between jobs or on a Saturday. If you were 20 miles east of San Antonio I would do it for half that. You might also look into renting a skid steer with an auger.

The folks I've been talking to are the ones who do fences. I talked to a guy yesterday, another flipping bufoon who wanted $100 per hole.. that was a short conversation.

Spoke to another guy, 10 minutes later who will do it for $25 per hole. Does Skid Steer work on the side (weekends) for extra cash. probably going with him unless I can get someone for less, which I am still trying to do.

 

[Cuda416]

Just did this up near the red River 2 months ago. Skid steer, auger attachment, and trailer was like $400 OTD at the rental place. Took me all of 30 minutes to dig 18 2'x3' holes

problem for me is I don't have anything to load the equipment on or pull it with. I can rent the stuff for around $400 as well, but delivery and pickup is another $250.