Digital calipers - something between HF and Mitutoyo?
- Thread starter mike93lx
- Start date
Jwallace1
Well-known member
i have a set of the Igaging absolute calipers i bought several years ago in 6" and have been happy with them other than i wish they would shut off after a few minutes of not being used i leave them on all the time but the battery has never been changed. i recently bought a set of 12" from Shars in their Aventor line and the quality is great and i read lots of good reviews of them, they might be an option for a mid level price range. look on their website they have several options available other than the ones linked below. all the stuff i have bought from them i have been happy with
thanks
thanks
A number of websites and forums posts have talked about the differences. On that I spot is the locking screw shape
(picture from a thread here https://shipsofscale.com/sosforums/threads/mitutoyo-calipers-buying-the-real-deal.7837/
The real ones have a lower profile screw (bottom set of calipers). Typically the LCDs are wrong in some detailed way. Also, they typically ship with alkaline vs sliver-oxide batteries. Sometimes the spare battery packaging will claim to be SO even when the battery itself says otherwise.
The sad thing is often the fakes are decent calipers and probably better than the HF stuff. If the machining was as poor as the last HF calipers I used no one would confuse them.
I've heard that ebay will not make you return a fake item but will force a refund to you. I've been tempted to buy some fake Mitutoyos just so I can get a refund because they are fake. It hurts the seller of fake goods and I would get a free pair of calipers. I've never done this because I've been worried that ebay wouldn't believe me when I say the tool is fake. Given I have more calipers than I need, not worth the trouble.
Incidentally, I haven't seen fakes of the older, smaller LCD Mitutoyos. If you can find them, some ST Industries branded calipers are actually older Mitutoyos. Mine are the "CD-6 C" models that have the power and abs buttons on the side vs front face of the electronics housing. Very cheap used since they aren't a "good brand".
I have genuine mitotoyos at work and a fake one at home.
I got the fake ones last year. I assume older ones may be more different. The locking screw shape is identical on mine, but the genuine mitutoyo locking screw can't be unscrewed all the way - on the fakes it falls out.
If I measure a bearing (which is generally quite exact), the front jaws consistently get correct values, from small bearings to really large 140mm ones. The rear ID jaws are also consistent but they also consistently measure 0.02mm larger in relation to the OD jaws. I assume nailing this relation - the grinding on the OD jaws and the ID jaws - is the hardest tolerance in caliper manufacturing.
Another thing I noticed immediately is that the fake ones turn on by themselves when you move them. Kind of like they measure constantly, no matter if they're on or off. That does make them "absolute". But the genuine mitutoyos stay off, and give you the absolute measurement wherever you turn them on. Don't know if it migh also just be the difference between models - the fake ones copy a different mitutoyo model to mine.
Also, the QR code at the rear can't be read on the fake ones.
Other than that, for the ~35€ I paid for the 150mm long ones, and ~89€ I paid for the 300mm ones, the fake ones are actually a really good deal. The generic chinese calipers will usually be off for a bit more - and it's got a lot to do with luck too, I'm sure some can also be spot on. Genuine ones are about 4 to 5 times as much and basically wouldn't offer me anything more for my needs.
With measuring tools, you either get quality or you don't. I don't think there's much middle ground. The chinese ones are cheap and do the job. Mitutoyo fakes are probably the best middle ground...
I got the fake ones last year. I assume older ones may be more different. The locking screw shape is identical on mine, but the genuine mitutoyo locking screw can't be unscrewed all the way - on the fakes it falls out.
If I measure a bearing (which is generally quite exact), the front jaws consistently get correct values, from small bearings to really large 140mm ones. The rear ID jaws are also consistent but they also consistently measure 0.02mm larger in relation to the OD jaws. I assume nailing this relation - the grinding on the OD jaws and the ID jaws - is the hardest tolerance in caliper manufacturing.
Another thing I noticed immediately is that the fake ones turn on by themselves when you move them. Kind of like they measure constantly, no matter if they're on or off. That does make them "absolute". But the genuine mitutoyos stay off, and give you the absolute measurement wherever you turn them on. Don't know if it migh also just be the difference between models - the fake ones copy a different mitutoyo model to mine.
Also, the QR code at the rear can't be read on the fake ones.
Other than that, for the ~35€ I paid for the 150mm long ones, and ~89€ I paid for the 300mm ones, the fake ones are actually a really good deal. The generic chinese calipers will usually be off for a bit more - and it's got a lot to do with luck too, I'm sure some can also be spot on. Genuine ones are about 4 to 5 times as much and basically wouldn't offer me anything more for my needs.
With measuring tools, you either get quality or you don't. I don't think there's much middle ground. The chinese ones are cheap and do the job. Mitutoyo fakes are probably the best middle ground...
thanks for the info, it might be worth trying. if its a fake, I can have Paypal or ebay intervene?A number of websites and forums posts have talked about the differences. On that I spot is the locking screw shape
(picture from a thread here https://shipsofscale.com/sosforums/threads/mitutoyo-calipers-buying-the-real-deal.7837/
The real ones have a lower profile screw (bottom set of calipers). Typically the LCDs are wrong in some detailed way. Also, they typically ship with alkaline vs sliver-oxide batteries. Sometimes the spare battery packaging will claim to be SO even when the battery itself says otherwise.
The sad thing is often the fakes are decent calipers and probably better than the HF stuff. If the machining was as poor as the last HF calipers I used no one would confuse them.
I've heard that ebay will not make you return a fake item but will force a refund to you. I've been tempted to buy some fake Mitutoyos just so I can get a refund because they are fake. It hurts the seller of fake goods and I would get a free pair of calipers. I've never done this because I've been worried that ebay wouldn't believe me when I say the tool is fake. Given I have more calipers than I need, not worth the trouble.
Incidentally, I haven't seen fakes of the older, smaller LCD Mitutoyos. If you can find them, some ST Industries branded calipers are actually older Mitutoyos. Mine are the "CD-6 C" models that have the power and abs buttons on the side vs front face of the electronics housing. Very cheap used since they aren't a "good brand".
Didn't see them mentioned, I have this Clockwise Tools unit that has done perfectly well for sizing bolts and such:
I've been pleased with it for the low price.
I've been pleased with it for the low price.
I have the iGaging IP54 EZCal and a Brown & Sharp Dura Cal IP65. For the $ the iGaging is pretty nice. The iGaging display is large and easy to read. Matches with the results I get with the B&S set so the consistency between them is good.