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Digital/HDTV Cabling

Garage Junkie

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Hi everyone,

I have a question for the experts here- not exactly garage related, but I'm sure someone will have the answer.

I just bought a new-to-me house built in 1989. I've been trying to get the cable tv wiring squared away and now I've hit a roadblock. I couldn't understand why there were cable outlets everywhere- like two per room in every room in the house, yet there only a few cables and splitters stapled to the back of the house, but not enough to account for what appeared to be there. So I did some tracing and digging and finally found all of the original coax home runs buried in the sheetrock wall in the basement. I figured "well no problem, I'll just put in a proper panel and splitter arrangement and get rid of all the junk on the outside of the house."

But then I realized that the house had been wired with RG62 cable and it appears from some searching that it is pretty much useless for any video signal, especially HDTV signals. Any ideas on what I should do?

-Live with what I have- which is limited drops into a couple rooms?
-try to rip out the old cable where I can and use it to pull in new RG6- is that sometimes easy to do or will it be stapled in everywhere?
-is there any way to use the RG62?

Thanks in advance
 
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sselander

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RG-62 was used for coax computer networking ... a long time ago
If I remember correctly it was 93 ohms, modern cable is 75 ohms.

RG6 is what you want use.
 

Specs

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Would you know if the previous owners dropped the wire from the ceiling/attic or brought it through the basement via drop ceiling panels?

Honestly, if you are gonna make new runs and prewire the house (again) use rg-11+ crimp on f" connectors". Quad shielded rg6 will support everything nowadays, but no less than 10 years ago rg-59 was still supported as a useable video/data/voip cable. You could also use a +7mhz mini amp on the RG6 lines per 8 cable units, if you go junction box.
 
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Garage Junkie

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Thanks, not familiar with rg11, but I will research it before I buy anything. Unfortunately, the basement is all sheetrocked- though I think I can replace the runs in the hvac soffit easily. Not sure about pulling up into the walls on the first floor though- could get pretty difficult. Does anyone have any words of wisdom on this? Were there standard stapling practices for coax, should I even attempt to pull in new cable by using the old stuff to pull on?
 

CNGsaves

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You sure you don't just have older coax cable . . . . skinny stuff which was RG59 ???

Post up picturess of actual cable specs.
 

2ManyProjects

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Hi everyone,

I have a question for the experts here- not exactly garage related, but I'm sure someone will have the answer.

I just bought a new-to-me house built in 1989. I've been trying to get the cable tv wiring squared away and now I've hit a roadblock. I couldn't understand why there were cable outlets everywhere- like two per room in every room in the house, yet there only a few cables and splitters stapled to the back of the house, but not enough to account for what appeared to be there. So I did some tracing and digging and finally found all of the original coax home runs buried in the sheetrock wall in the basement. I figured "well no problem, I'll just put in a proper panel and splitter arrangement and get rid of all the junk on the outside of the house."

But then I realized that the house had been wired with RG62 cable and it appears from some searching that it is pretty much useless for any video signal, especially HDTV signals.

OK, first things first...

The signals you are trying to distribute are NOT "video", per se. They are RF signals, generally in the radio/TV bands. The "video" (and audio, and in the case of modern "cable TV" service, internet data and telephone) signals are embedded/encoded within those RF signals; but the wire neither knows nor cares about that.

Most "Cable TV" service these days is completely digital, using high-bandwidth fiber-optic cable out to at least the "neighborhood" level (and in the case of some services, all the way to your home). At that point, a proprietary device (generally referred to as an "Optical Network Terminal") splits out the various signals and sends them where they need to go, over metallic cabling (including, but not necessarily limited to, coax). With regard to TV (as opposed to internet and/or telephone) service in particular, those signals eventually reach your "Set Top Box", which in turn feeds actual audio & video signals to your TV.

It sounds like you have more-or-less conventional "Cable TV" service, as opposed to a full "FTTP" (Fiber To The Premises) service such as Verizon FiOS. In which case, you don't have an ONT in/on your house, and the service comes in to your property via a single coax cable. But if you ALSO have internet and/or (VOIP) telephone service through your "cable" company (i.e., a so-called "Triple Play" package), then you will ALSO have some sort of "black box" (essentially a router) which will split off these other signals and feed them separately to wherever they need to go.

Any ideas on what I should do?

-Live with what I have- which is limited drops into a couple rooms?
-try to rip out the old cable where I can and use it to pull in new RG6- is that sometimes easy to do or will it be stapled in everywhere?
-is there any way to use the RG62?

You CAN use splitters and/or distribution amps to spread that signal around the house; but you should NOT go overboard on this. Each such "splitter" device in the chain inevitably imposes signal losses. Distribution amps attempt to make up for these losses by amplifying the signal before sending through a splitter circuit; but that brings its own set of potential problems (signal overload, clipping, additional noise, etc.).

The RG-62 is far from ideal for this purpose, to the point that it is arguably useless. The main problem is that its characteristic impedance is way off the figure used for TV/cable signals, and for which all the equipment in question is designed. This mismatch can (and likely will) cause some serious signal losses (and worse, reflections) in each cable segment (each of which is its own "transmission line"). That, in turn, can screw up the entire system. All that said, you just MIGHT get away with it, particularly if it's only one or two relatively short runs, and presuming that everything falls into place "just so". But I cannot in good conscience actually recommend you go this way. The only way to be sure is to try it.

If you want to completely re-wire the house for TV distribution, I would suggest making "Home Runs" of low-loss 75-Ohm coaxial cabling from each drop point back to a centrally located wiring closet. But do NOT actually connect any of these drops which are not in active use. Several folks here have suggested RG-6/U cable for this purpose; and it will near-certainly be adequate. If you want to go top-shelf, quad-shield RG-11/U would impose somewhat less signal loss (particularly at the higher RF frequencies) on the longer runs; but it is a much thicker and stiffer cable, which will therefore be a much larger PITA to run/fish.

As for using the old RG-62 as a "pull rope" for the new cable... Good luck. I'd wager it IS stapled in at least somewhere along the line; and therefore, this will prove futile.


RG-62 was used for coax computer networking ... a long time ago
If I remember correctly it was 93 ohms, modern cable is 75 ohms.

92 Ohms; but close enough.

RG6 is what you want use.

Well... MAYBE.

See above re; RG-11/U. Lower loss, but more of a PITA to work with. I use it for the main downleads from my antennas; but the drops from the main distribution amp are all RG-6/U.

 

Highbeam

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Great post 2mp.

I ripped out all old stuff from my 1963 home and ran all home runs of rg6u to a panel. At the same time I ran cat5e along with it to the same panel. Near the panel is my homemade DIY UHF antenna that works freaking perfectly for the last couple of years.

Easy to fish both of these through walls.
 
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ishiboo

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If you can't fish and you must cut holes in drywall/etc., I'd throw in some smurf tube. All my wiring locations get what's currently needed (usually 1-2 RG6 quad, two Cat6 and a 5e) but the smurf tube handles the future.
 

theoldwizard1

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Another at-a-boy for 2MP !

RG6 is probably more common these days and costs less than RG59. The satellite dish companies started using it first and then the cable companies picked it up, primarily because it is more "rugged" (heavier center conductor). RG11 will cost 2-3 times as much.

If you plan on doing any wiring, make life easier on yourself and buy Snap-N-Seal connectors and a combination stripper/crimper. I do admit the Belden/T&B IT1000 tool is pricey (> $75), but it works well. And you just can NOT miss with the Snap-N-Seal connectors (color coded; blue SNS1P6 for RG6, orange SNS1P59 for RG59, QuadShield takes a unique connector).

The fewer the connections the better (hence the recommendation to do a "home run" for each room). I have tried a couple of different amplifiers over the years (8 drops in my house) and have found the Channel Master Distribution Amplifiers work the best,
 
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theoldwizard1

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If you can't fish and you must cut holes in drywall/etc., I'd throw in some smurf tube. All my wiring locations get what's currently needed (usually 1-2 RG6 quad, two Cat6 and a 5e) but the smurf tube handles the future.

You must have money to burn ! I can see using the smurf tubing, but pre-loading it with all of that wire ! One of the major reasons for conduit is to allow easy future installation of wire.

I know commercial building and even some houses pull multiple cables, but they do NOT install conduits first !
 

jeffmoss26

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Good advice here.
RG62 was used for thinnet, one of the original forms of ethernet, and used BNC connectors. I enjoy ripping it out whenever I see it :D
 
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Garage Junkie

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Thanks everyone for the great information! Unfortunately, you've confirmed my fears. Here's the pics of what I'm dealing with-

this is what I found underneath the drywall- all of the original home runs:


Here is the spec on the jacket:


And a close-up of the actual conductors:
 
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Garage Junkie

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And to the earlier question- I am on Time Warner Cable with underground coax feed to the house. I actually had a box working on a run of this stuff, before I took the connector off to start wiring it all up in an enclosure. But clearly leaving this stuff in is not the way to go, so looks like I will have to decide what runs I really want to have and what I can live without and start trying to pull new wire.
 

Tom McDermott

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Hi Junkie -

The impedance of RG-62 is really not that far from RG6. 92 ohms vs. 75 ohms.
The impedance mismatch (VSWR) is only 1.22:1. If it were me, I'd just use that already-installed cable. I doubt that there will be any significant problems.

-- Tom
 

CNGsaves

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I sure would re-terminate each end of that RG62 cable and test it. Maybe just the critical runs need re-wired with RG6 (ie main TV room / main computer run to cable modem). Walls and unfinished basement open enough that you might back-pull the RG62 with proper RG6 cable??

Any tech solution to put "filter" on end of those RG62 runs to get Ohms back to 75 spec??
 
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Garage Junkie

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I sure would re-terminate each end of that RG62 cable and test it. Maybe just the critical runs need re-wired with RG6 (ie main TV room / main computer run to cable modem). Walls and unfinished basement open enough that you might back-pull the RG62 with proper RG6 cable??

Any tech solution to put "filter" on end of those RG62 runs to get Ohms back to 75 spec??

Well one of the problems I'm running into in my research is that since rg62 is only being used for car antennas these days, that's about the only connector that is listed for it.

It looks like rg59 is a smaller overall diameter like rg62- does anyone know if they might fit rg62? I know, probably the wrong way to go, but just weighing options out a little right now.
 
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Specs

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What about signal loss? There's no shields, not even around the core. One knick in the walls and these new cable converters will macroblock. If they were for BNC and Security DVR systems, then the strength of the signal will be good. And the signals not coming off a node 3-4 houses away. Try to make it work first is the best plan, if it doesn't support digital cable, you can plan and tone only the rooms that will have a tv set, to cut costs. Fishing with drywall up is a PITA,:lol_hitti
 

jeffmoss26

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OP I just realized we are in the same city...if you need a hand with this, I specialize in low voltage wiring. Shoot me a PM.

That wire is solid copper center conductor with a copper braid shield. Unless you are using satellite, you can use dual shielded RG6 copper coated steel.
 
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theoldwizard1

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Good advice here.
RG62 was used for thinnet, one of the original forms of ethernet, and used BNC connectors. I enjoy ripping it out whenever I see it :D
Not trying to bust your chops, just picking a nit ...


Actually, Thinnet (a.k.a. 10Base2) was spec'd to use a non-RG cable whose impedance was very close to RG58. True Thinnet cable has a smaller OD (0.160 vs 0.195) so that the BNC connectors and crimpers do NOT interchange (I got stuck in Brazil with Thinnet wire, crimpers and the wrong connectors ! Lead time on the connectors there was 3-6 months !!). RG-58 is very close to the same impedance (both about 50Ω) and also typically used BNC connectors so it was wide used for these types of installations.

Also, Thinnet was a "daisy chain" network, so doing "home runs" would be illogical.

About the same time as Thinnet and Token Ring, there was ARCnet. It DID use RG62 (93Ω) and it did require an active hub so home running was required.
 

theoldwizard1

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That wire is solid copper center conductor with a copper braid shield. Unless you are using satellite, you can use dual shielded RG6 copper coated steel.

Somebody is going to have to show my spectrum analyzer data before I will buy into dual/quad shield. Keep your coax reasonable far from AC power lines, electric motors and fluorescent light and the standard stuff should be fine. Unless the manufacturer specs the dual/quad shield.
 

theoldwizard1

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What about signal loss?

Signal loss is mostly attributed to impedance mismatch between the transmitter and cable or the cable and the receiver.

They type of the conductor, the inner dielectric material and the type of shield are what affect cable impedance. The shield also limits radiation (interference) from inside to outside and from outside to inside.
 

jeffmoss26

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All of the RG6 I've ever used or purchased has been at least dual shield...foil around the center conductor, and a braid.

I apologize for being wrong about thinnet vs arcnet, I was not born when this stuff was used :p
 

theoldwizard1

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I apologize for being wrong about thinnet vs arcnet, I was not born when this stuff was used :p
OUCH !

You really know how to hurt a guy ! I was around during the days of the "Ether-hose" ! Bright yellow or orange, 0.375 OD RG8, with about a 3-4' bend radius. Vampire taps, AUI cables, etc.

I still get a chuckle that one of the original design goals of Ethernet was to have a "daisy chain"/linear topology that was easy to tap. "Star" topologies were considered to be too expensive (cost of the hub and typically more wire).

Time and technology march on ! I installed a 4 port Gigabit switch w/wireless router at my friends small business last year. EZ and not that expensive ! I could not fathom something like that being cost effective 7-8 years ago.
 

vtec?lol

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once you pull all that wire you can sell it for a few bucks if that helps.
 
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So after reading all these responses and thinking on my situation a bit, I think I'm going to pull an RG6 across the basement into the utility room and set up my distribution box there. That at least removes about 50' of run off about 9 of those strands- a couple of which I actually want to use. I had bought a Leviton structured wiring panel for this and I'll set it up as best I can. Then at least as I make any big remodels to the house later I can replace the rg62 as I go.

I am running a time warner HD box off one of these strands right now. Am I getting full 1080 HD and making the most out of the tv? I doubt it, but I can't tell the difference. Ignorance is bliss I guess.

I'll post pics as I go- probably wont happen quick though. Thanks everyone for your help! Jeff you have a PM!
 

jeffmoss26

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OUCH !

You really know how to hurt a guy ! I was around during the days of the "Ether-hose" ! Bright yellow or orange, 0.375 OD RG8, with about a 3-4' bend radius. Vampire taps, AUI cables, etc.

I still get a chuckle that one of the original design goals of Ethernet was to have a "daisy chain"/linear topology that was easy to tap. "Star" topologies were considered to be too expensive (cost of the hub and typically more wire).

Time and technology march on ! I installed a 4 port Gigabit switch w/wireless router at my friends small business last year. EZ and not that expensive ! I could not fathom something like that being cost effective 7-8 years ago.

We have a LOT of Cat 5 cable running through our plant at work that was used for serial connections to shop floor machines (DNC).
Now it's all been replaced with RS232 to wireless adapters at the machines, and wireless access points throughout the shop.
 

ishiboo

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I sure would re-terminate each end of that RG62 cable and test it. Maybe just the critical runs need re-wired with RG6 (ie main TV room / main computer run to cable modem). Walls and unfinished basement open enough that you might back-pull the RG62 with proper RG6 cable??

Any tech solution to put "filter" on end of those RG62 runs to get Ohms back to 75 spec??

Yeah, I'd do this as well :)
 

wyliesdiesels

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....You CAN use splitters and/or distribution amps to spread that signal around the house; but you should NOT go overboard on this. Each such "splitter" device in the chain inevitably imposes signal losses. Distribution amps attempt to make up for these losses by amplifying the signal before sending through a splitter circuit; but that brings its own set of potential problems (signal overload, clipping, additional noise, etc.).....

This is just the reason to use TAPS and NOT splitters!!
 
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Garage Junkie

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So I wanted to give a progress update. I got some work done on this last weekend.

Here is the installed structured wiring panel. I still have to fix the drywall, which is one project I hate to do! I went with the power supply add on to the cabinet so I can plug in things inside.



Here is what it looks like inside. I'm not all that happy with the ability to mount things in it. I bought the little plastic parts that snap in for mounting, but of course they don't fit the splitter, nor does the spacing of the splitter fit the hole spacing. But the cabinet really was only $46 and it provides the space I needed. I pulled out all the runs of rg62 that I could back to utility room on the other side of the basement, replacing them with a single run of quad shield. I may set up another one of these cabinets in there to make a neat place to tie things together. While I was at it, I pulled a piece of Cat 5 and a pull string for later.



Here is the splitter (?)/ amplifier I bought. It seems to be working well, though if I had a way to measure signal strength I would prefer to do that first, then decide if I really need it and on which runs. What is going on that you can't see is that there is a splitter outside on the wall behind this that is right at the cable company drop. I have on split going from there right to the living room TV and router. I have another split going to some of the old wiring on the outside of house that goes up to the attic and on to a bedroom. Then there is a split coming inside to this panel.



Here is all the RG62 removed in the process- probably 9 runs about 60' each.



And lastly, I still had to make a connection from quad shield to the old RG62 in the utility room to feed the office TV that started this whole project. I bought RG59 connectors to try and they worked pretty good. I will also say that by doing this I cut about 60' of RG62 off this run and the picture is visibly better. I wish I could rip the walls open and remove the rest, but not today!



So that's where I ended up! Comments are welcome.
 

2ManyProjects

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This is just the reason to use TAPS and NOT splitters!!

Not really. See below.

Not sure I know what the difference is.... can you explain more?

"Taps" (full name "Directional Taps") are essentially the same thing as splitters, except that the outputs are unbalanced (usually WILDLY unbalanced) with regard to signal level (and hence, signal loss relative to the input).

A run-of-the-mill splitter will have one input, and two or more outputs. (For sake of simplicity, let's stick to two.) For any given signal level at the input, the signal level at both outputs will be equal to each other, and (typically) about 3.25-3.5dB down from the input. 3.0dB of that loss is because half of the signal POWER is going to the other output; the other quarter- to half-dB is due to parasitic losses within the splitter.

By comparison, a "tap" will have widely disparate levels on each of its two outputs. Differences of 12-20dB (16-100 times, in terms of power) between the two outputs are common, and it can be as high as 30dB (1,000 times) or more. Taps are designed to be used in CATV systems, where the signal on the main "trunk" line is initially amplified (at the head end) to VERY high levels, vis-a-vis "normal" RF signal levels; then a single trunk line is used to feed a whole street's-worth (or more) of customers. One of these outputs is designated the "Line" output, and the other (lower-level) output is the "Drop". By severely limiting the amount of power the "Drop" output is permitted to draw from the tap, more of the original signal is preserved for feeding down the line (to the next tap, and the one after that, and the one after that, and so on). Note that taps also have minor parasitic losses, similar to splitters (TANSTAAFL); so in essence, it becomes simply a matter how we want to divvy-up the original input signal.

Taps can be useful when wiring TV distribution systems in homes, but they are NOT a panacea. Nor should either splitters or taps be indiscriminately substituted for the other. Which type of device will be appropriate will depend on the wiring scheme used. Taps are only called for in "Daisy Chain" arrangements, where a single "trunk" cable snakes its way all over the house, feeding each TV/VCR/etc. location in turn as it goes. Splitters are the correct choice for "Star"-type topologies, where each individual point-of-use feed is "home run" back to a central distribution point (such as in the OP's case).

 

2ManyProjects

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So I wanted to give a progress update. I got some work done on this last weekend.
I pulled out all the runs of rg62 that I could back to utility room on the other side of the basement, replacing them with a single run of quad shield. I may set up another one of these cabinets in there to make a neat place to tie things together.
Here is the splitter (?)/ amplifier I bought. It seems to be working well, though if I had a way to measure signal strength I would prefer to do that first, then decide if I really need it and on which runs. What is going on that you can't see is that there is a splitter outside on the wall behind this that is right at the cable company drop. I have on split going from there right to the living room TV and router. I have another split going to some of the old wiring on the outside of house that goes up to the attic and on to a bedroom. Then there is a split coming inside to this panel.

You really ought to decide what the topology of your distribution system is going to be, and stick to it. As it stands, you've got an ad-hoc bastardized mix between a "Daisy Chain" and "Star". In most situations similar to yours, "Star" is easier to deal with. Assuming that, you want to bring the cable company's "unmolested" feed to ONE central distribution point (such as that structured wiring panel or similar), then feed EVERYTHING from there, with individual runs for each device.

The device you pictured is a Distribution Amplifier. It is essentially an 8-way splitter tacked onto an RF amplifier. If you're not going to use more than two or three of its outputs, you may well be better off without it, as you probably do NOT need the additional gain (or the noise, distortion, and other problems which go with it). And if you are going to use it, it should be the FIRST thing in the signal path, or at least the first thing after the (2-way) splitter for the router/"cable modem". (Which of these latter two choices would be preferable will depend in part on the device's ability to pass signals -- including "out of band" signals -- bidirectionally. It's labeled "passive return", so MAYBE it would work upstream of the router.)

And lastly, I still had to make a connection from quad shield to the old RG62 in the utility room to feed the office TV that started this whole project. I bought RG59 connectors to try and they worked pretty good. I will also say that by doing this I cut about 60' of RG62 off this run and the picture is visibly better.

That actually surprises me a bit, at least presuming that run is feeding another "digital" STB. If it is an analog RF/TV signal, then your observation does make sense.

I wish I could rip the walls open and remove the rest, but not today!

I understand. Sometimes, you just have to say "enough, for now."

 
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Garage Junkie

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You really ought to decide what the topology of your distribution system is going to be, and stick to it. As it stands, you've got an ad-hoc bastardized mix between a "Daisy Chain" and "Star". In most situations similar to yours, "Star" is easier to deal with. Assuming that, you want to bring the cable company's "unmolested" feed to ONE central distribution point (such as that structured wiring panel or similar), then feed EVERYTHING from there, with individual runs for each device.

The device you pictured is a Distribution Amplifier. It is essentially an 8-way splitter tacked onto an RF amplifier. If you're not going to use more than two or three of its outputs, you may well be better off without it, as you probably do NOT need the additional gain (or the noise, distortion, and other problems which go with it). And if you are going to use it, it should be the FIRST thing in the signal path, or at least the first thing after the (2-way) splitter for the router/"cable modem". (Which of these latter two choices would be preferable will depend in part on the device's ability to pass signals -- including "out of band" signals -- bidirectionally. It's labeled "passive return", so MAYBE it would work upstream of the router.)



That actually surprises me a bit, at least presuming that run is feeding another "digital" STB. If it is an analog RF/TV signal, then your observation does make sense.



I understand. Sometimes, you just have to say "enough, for now."


Thanks for the feedback 2Many. I am kind of stuck between what I have and what I want to do. I would like to get the outside split down to just the modem and the panel. I'm thinking about how I might put the modem in the panel and run the Ethernet through the wall from modem to the router upstairs. That would help clean things up. I also will need to re-run an exterior cable from the third story soffit (there's a splitter up there) all the way down to the panel to bring it into the 8 way splitter instead of using the split outside. That's just time and ladder work to accomplish at this point.

The office split is feeding a STB, so I was surprised too! Of course, that may be saying something about how bad the signal was before.
 

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There is a subtle cabling requirement that is developing. While the video signals pass under 2150 mhz, the multiplexed signals which feed the master boxes in modern systems need to pass 3000 mhz. For example if you're using a Dish Hopper/Joey system, the Hoppers need to have coax which passes 3000 mhz run back to the dish or node and coax which passes 2150 mhz to the Joey's. Depending on where you want the master boxes located now and in the future, you need to cable accordingly. Implicitly this also means that RG11 may make sense with respect to better "future proofing" your work, since future systems may need to pass higher frequencies. While all satellite and cable systems may not require this cabling today, it would not be surprising to see more and more cable systems get developed with higher frequency distribution requirements.

The other way to approach meeting distribution requirements is to use Cat5 as the newer generation of systems are built to support video over LAN. It would not surprise me to see this approach become the standard over the next decade or two.
 
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Garage Junkie

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Joined
Jan 2, 2010
Messages
170
Location
Cleveland, OH
There is a subtle cabling requirement that is developing. While the video signals pass under 2150 mhz, the multiplexed signals which feed the master boxes in modern systems need to pass 3000 mhz. For example if you're using a Dish Hopper/Joey system, the Hoppers need to have coax which passes 3000 mhz run back to the dish or node and coax which passes 2150 mhz to the Joey's. Depending on where you want the master boxes located now and in the future, you need to cable accordingly. Implicitly this also means that RG11 may make sense with respect to better "future proofing" your work, since future systems may need to pass higher frequencies. While all satellite and cable systems may not require this cabling today, it would not be surprising to see more and more cable systems get developed with higher frequency distribution requirements.

The other way to approach meeting distribution requirements is to use Cat5 as the newer generation of systems are built to support video over LAN. It would not surprise me to see this approach become the standard over the next decade or two.

Hmm... That is interesting Ray, one thing I have noticed about the STB running on the rg62 is that it kind of seems slow to load the guide and navigate. Maybe its nothing, but it seems slower than the other boxes a little. I wondered if it was the splitter/amp or cable causing it.
 

2ManyProjects

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 18, 2013
Messages
757
There is a subtle cabling requirement that is developing. While the video signals pass under 2150 mhz, the multiplexed signals which feed the master boxes in modern systems need to pass 3000 mhz. For example if you're using a Dish Hopper/Joey system, the Hoppers need to have coax which passes 3000 mhz run back to the dish or node and coax which passes 2150 mhz to the Joey's.

That is a satellite system, which is a completely different animal from CATV. Most cable systems in the U.S. don't use anything above about 800-900 MHz; tho' in theory they could go to about 1 GHz.

The other way to approach meeting distribution requirements is to use Cat5 as the newer generation of systems are built to support video over LAN. It would not surprise me to see this approach become the standard over the next decade or two.

That would require ENTIRELY different equipment that either current satellite-TV services or any known CATV system. And given the mountains of money cable operators have invested in their current-technology "plants" over the past several years, I would not expect to see wholesale changes on that front for quite some time to come.


Hmm... That is interesting Ray, one thing I have noticed about the STB running on the rg62 is that it kind of seems slow to load the guide and navigate. Maybe its nothing, but it seems slower than the other boxes a little. I wondered if it was the splitter/amp or cable causing it.

It could be. The impedance mismatch between the equipment and the cable would give rise to reflections in the transmission line. That in turn could EASILY garble phase-shift-keyed signals, such as are used in QAM-based CATV systems; which in turn would require retransmission of the data for the program guide (or other data) to finish loading. If you also experienced chronic pixellation on that one drop, this would further confirm the theory.

 
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