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Direct-Lift 8K 4-post problems

OX1

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 6, 2012
Messages
157
Location
Jackson, NJ
Just another data point. Was pretty happy with the lift for the past 3 years until a couple months ago, it started raising much slower than it had been. Max I've ever had on it was a Grand Marq, maybe 4300 lbs. I've lifted it up/down maybe 80 times in 3 years, what I would consider moderate use for a homeowner enthusiast.

I had thought the towers may need to be greased, and/or it was just colder out and the fluid was a bit thicker. Well temps are back up, and it was taking at least twice as long just to raise up a kia rio a friend needed work on (2600 lbs, maybe). I then raised it about an inch above the highest lock and heard a "crack", followed by a decent amount of fluid rushing out the vent tube on the forward end of cyl.

Tore down the cyl and could not find anything really wrong with the seals. Ordered seal kit ($80 plus shipping for reference), and can find no good way to get the new U-seal on. Direct-Lift suggested heating the seal in water to just below boiling, which I did, but seal ID is 2" and "flange" on edge of piston is 2.5". This seal seems to almost have to go on like a tire machine operates. I thought about using an exh pipe expander (or some type of custom made aluminum cone), but not sure if that will damage seal by stretching it too much. Searching for a special tool, the only one's that turn up are for installing that type seal in a bore (ID) type situation. Have a Rotary service rep coming out to re-assemble cyl, since they bought out Direct-Lift not that long ago.

Have to say I am a bit dissapointed, especially since I can find no reason for the fluid loss (let alone the power pack slowly crapping out). The only thing I can think of is the end of cyl has internal corrosion, and when the seal hit that area, it forced some leakage. I do rarely take the lift ALL the way up, but that would seem odd due to the age and usage to me though.
 
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tool-guy

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Joined
Mar 29, 2012
Messages
251
Location
victoria, australia
You can stretch the seals a fair way and heating them in hot water also helps. You can also grease them to help slip them over. Sometimes the seals leak and you cannot see why.
 

Nexussian

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 12, 2014
Messages
639
Location
Alaska
I'm unsure of what you are saying.

Are you saying you suspect there is corrosion in the end of the cylinders, or that you know they are corroded?

If they are you should be able to clean it up with a flex honed (aka dingle ball hone).

If that is the problem though, wouldn't it be leaking externally (ie making a mess on the floor).

What kind of power pack do those come with?

Can you reseal that, or check if you're getting fluid into the motor?

Does the pump have a filter or pickup screen?

Might check if those are getting clogged (if equipped).
 
OP
O

OX1

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 6, 2012
Messages
157
Location
Jackson, NJ
I'm unsure of what you are saying.

Are you saying you suspect there is corrosion in the end of the cylinders, or that you know they are corroded?

If they are you should be able to clean it up with a flex honed (aka dingle ball hone).

If that is the problem though, wouldn't it be leaking externally (ie making a mess on the floor).

What kind of power pack do those come with?

Can you reseal that, or check if you're getting fluid into the motor?

Does the pump have a filter or pickup screen?

Might check if those are getting clogged (if equipped).

Finally got the main seal on by boiling it for quite a while and then putting edge of piston in a vice (with cardboard so piston was not damaged) and part of seal in groove below where piston was in vice. This allowed a tremendous amount of force to be used to pull seal on, without piston moving.

Anyway, no more leaks (it was leaking out vent on closed end of cyl, not end with ram coming out), and still no reason I can see why it did. Cyl bore had no rust and using a long piece of PVC conduit wrapped in clean rags turned up no debri in end of cyl either. Piston seals were not damaged as far as I can tell.

Used Dexron this time instead of ISO 32 (DirectLift said OK to use) in hopes it might be lighter and speed up the lift. Also needed to add CAT anti-stiction fluid from horrendous noises from ram after cyl rebuild. Pretty quiet and smooth now after about 10 cycles, but still on the order of about 1/3 the speed it was when new.

No debri on pickup for power pack, I removed reservoir to clean it out (did find some metal filings, but not a horrible amount by any means). Got one of these
https://autoliftpartsplus.com/new/p...lifts-208-230v-1-phase-4-gallon-tank-2465psi/
when I rebuilt my older rotary 2 post, will probably upgrade the power pack on this 4 post when money permits.

By the time I get a new power pack, could have had a Bendpack 4 post. Live and learn I guess.
 
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sublimate

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Joined
Aug 4, 2010
Messages
776
Location
Colorado
I'd look for something binding in the travel of the carriage.
Slower movement plus a failed seal could mean it's fighting something when trying to lift which raised the pressure enough to fail a seal.
 
OP
O

OX1

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 6, 2012
Messages
157
Location
Jackson, NJ
I'd look for something binding in the travel of the carriage.
Slower movement plus a failed seal could mean it's fighting something when trying to lift which raised the pressure enough to fail a seal.

Yeah, that is why I started with greasing the towers and lock plates. Still groaning a bit going up under load, but gets quieter every cycle. No jerkiness or anything that might indicate something in the guide blocks or binding in the cables/sheaves.

Not sure what else to check. The release/down cycle is now quieter/smoother than when it was new with that additive. Maybe that original piston/seal has been "sticking" (very slightly, multiple times every time it traveled under load) since I got it and the seal just burped the one time??
 
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