Dirt floor in mechanical shed

[projectionarts]

Howday, All! First time poster here. Recently bought a circa-1820 house in Fishkill, NY with a "Mechanical Shed" (as listed on the tax map.) Kinda like a
small two-bay no doors garage. Too small to use as a garage, so I want to convert it into a workshop/man cave. The total dimensions are 30' wide X 16' deep at the edge of the overhang. Since this is in a historic district can't make any external modifications without going in front of a historical review board, but I want to at least some period-appropriate garage doors on it. Yes, I want insulated roll-up garage doors to provide maximum ventillation when I'm doing woodworking or painting.
The problem is the floor - Dirt, some gravel, and large stone, with some dips and protrusions. I don't want to go throught the expense and permitting of getting a concrete floor poured, and I don't know if that's even possible in an existing structure. At the moment I'm making it more comfortable by covering the floor with rubber roll roofing and recycled vinyl projection screens (I'm an old A/V guy.) I'm thinking I can frame out the floor with 2X4s 16" OC, and then fill it in with gravel, put on a vapor barrier, and cover it with 3/4" ply. Then maybe rubber dance floor on top of that. Since I'm not putting any vehicles, or anything else heavy on it, I figure that would be good enough. Does that make sense? Do I need to put down any styro to insulate the floor? Down the road I will insulate the walls and ceiling, and add electric and heat as I want to be able to spend time in there in the winter without freezing.
Any suggestions will be appreciated!

 

[T444e]

Personally I would not want to work a floor that isn't flat/level or has deflection. If you think you could do a proper well supported floor with 2x4 framing and plywood, I'd say go for it. The plywood may be easier on the feet than concrete would definitely be warmer on the feet than concrete. Insulation under the floor would definitely help.

 

[johnre]

The tools you intend to keep inside the structure will suffer from moisture damage. You have to cover the floor.

 

[drmarkr]

Jack it up and pour a floor? This is how I did my tool shed.

Tool shed remodel...

When I bought my place 10 years ago, there was a small garden tool shed (12x12) that was just a frame/stucco sitting on a bunch of old, broken up 2'x4' pieces of concrete. Someone had taken mortar and tried to grout between all of these chunks....it was pathetic. The floor was such a broken up...

www.garagejournal.com

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

The place I work has a insulated tarp shed roof between 2 seacans. The floor is a double layer of 3/4" plywood. AFAIK its compacted asphalt tailings under the floor. We work on semi trucks in there...
There is heat and we work in there year round.

 

[Ilikeike]

Rototill a 3-4” with some Portland cement get it wet label it out. It will be tight enough to work on and set benches and chairs.

I did this with some boat ramps into retention basins. Drive tractors and equipment on it. Doesn't wash away.

 

[nadogail]

Soil Cement can be very effective and economical.

 

[slim_grim]

I've always really liked the look of end grain wood floors. They were common in old industrial spaces many years ago. When I get around to building a lean-to for a blacksmithing area, I plan to chop down some ground rated timbers to 6" or so and stand them on end for my floor. Most of them that I've seen have pretty tight gaps between the timbers. The one below looks to have alot of age on it, but it's the best pic that I have handy. Would fit well with the aesthetic of your shed (IMO).

 

[slim_grim]

Here's a better pic that I snagged from Reddit.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Here's a better pic that I snagged from Reddit.

WOW ! I haven't seen wood block flooring in over 50 years !!

Those blocks are oil (used motor oil?) impregnated and can be slippery as hell with "rubber" soled shoes.

 

[slim_grim]

WOW ! I haven't seen wood block flooring in over 50 years !!

Those blocks are oil (used motor oil?) impregnated and can be slippery as hell with "rubber" soled shoes.

Shop rule: golf shoes required.

 

[cosmokenney]

Howday, All! First time poster here. Recently bought a circa-1820 house in Fishkill, NY with a "Mechanical Shed" (as listed on the tax map.) Kinda like a
small two-bay no doors garage. Too small to use as a garage, so I want to convert it into a workshop/man cave. The total dimensions are 30' wide X 16' deep at the edge of the overhang. Since this is in a historic district can't make any external modifications without going in front of a historical review board, but I want to at least some period-appropriate garage doors on it. Yes, I want insulated roll-up garage doors to provide maximum ventillation when I'm doing woodworking or painting.
The problem is the floor - Dirt, some gravel, and large stone, with some dips and protrusions. I don't want to go throught the expense and permitting of getting a concrete floor poured, and I don't know if that's even possible in an existing structure. At the moment I'm making it more comfortable by covering the floor with rubber roll roofing and recycled vinyl projection screens (I'm an old A/V guy.) I'm thinking I can frame out the floor with 2X4s 16" OC, and then fill it in with gravel, put on a vapor barrier, and cover it with 3/4" ply. Then maybe rubber dance floor on top of that. Since I'm not putting any vehicles, or anything else heavy on it, I figure that would be good enough. Does that make sense? Do I need to put down any styro to insulate the floor? Down the road I will insulate the walls and ceiling, and add electric and heat as I want to be able to spend time in there in the winter without freezing.
Any suggestions will be appreciated!

You could diy a "dry pour" of concrete.

 

[theoldwizard1]

First, remove all of the rocks/stones larger than 2". Second use a garden rake and loosen the top 1" of dirt. Third, rent a compactor.

1"-2" of foam board will make a big difference for comfort. If you use 2 layers of 1" foam board with waterproof sealing tape and no overlapping joints, it will also be a vapor barrier.

Upgrade - Remove 4"-6" of dirt and replace with 3/4" crushed stone (do not use pea gravel or river rock) before the foam board. Compact.

Never heard of "rubber dance floor". If you do the compacted 3/4" crushed stone base and foam board, you can use any kind of interlocking/sheet flooring on top of the foam board.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Shop rule: golf shoes required.

No, but don't wear "dress shoes" !

About 50 years ago I learned the hard way. I worked in the "business" side of a factory. Once in awhile I did go to the factory floor. The oil from the block permeated the leather soles and rotted out the thread use to sew the soles on. It took a couple of days but my soles were flapping in the breeze !

 

[T444e]

WOW ! I haven't seen wood block flooring in over 50 years !!

I was I a building that has a fair amount the other day. I was originally an electric motor manufacturer.