Disc brake rotor question?

[mad57]

Well i am putting a disc conversion on my 57 chevy and problem iam having is the rims iam running ,i need longer wheel studs to be right and safe, the knurled parts on stock ones measure . 550 the new ones are fatter about . 585 not crazy but to much to just press in i tryed my question is can i just drill the rotor just slightly and will the knurl on the stud be enough to lock it into the rotor? If i drill the rotor the inside knurl will be gone. or am i gonna have problems with them spinning inside? thks.

 

[green.bubbly]

Not an expert but my guess is that as long as the hole is not too large and it took considerable force to press them in then they should not spin.

But then of course there is all the fancy engineering stuff to consider such as heating and cooling an contracting and expanding. But perhaps you could also tack weld the back heads of the studs to the rotor???

To be safe and sure, I would find some longer .550 studs.

 

[Vicinity]

Don't drill, pull them through, put a nut on the stud and tighten it down til it pulls the stud through the hub. It's excruciatingly hard, but I manged to do it all 4 corners for my car. It may go smoother with air tools.

 

[turbo388]

http://www.jegs.com/p/ARP/ARP-Wheel-Studs/747558/10002/-1

Buy the right studs, way cheaper than ruining a hub/rotor or having a wheel fly off.

 

[larry_g]

I would have to inquire as to what hubs & rotors you are using? You should be able to come up with the correct parts off the shelf. Are you using late model parts that are designed for metric studs? Or early parts designed for for SAE studs. Makes a difference. Have you purchased a kit, or are you piecing things together yourself? I would not be in a hurry to drill and custom fit parts. There are lots of studs out there, you just have to find the correct ones.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[mad57]

the disc kit is a store bought kit, the rims are hopsters, the factory rims will fit fine and have plenty of thread with drum brakes but the new rims are thicker and less thread shows with the disc bracket, i did search about all the auto parts stores in my area, they looked in the big books and they all came to the studs i got now. they are not metric, the rim co doest respond to questions for some reason, so no luck there, i tryed to use my press and no go so im not sure an impact could seat these, i had thought about the old school craiger sst lug nuts they have a stem so to speak but they are to fat to go between the rim and stud. any other ideas the local auto store says drill them a slight bit press the rest of the way but i wasnt sure. they do have a flat head to them on opposite side i doubt theyll pull through or the rim fall off but i dont want wobble which could lead to a shear then the rim falls off. any other ideas?

 

[turbo388]

Not endorsing either Jeg's or ARP but if you look at what's listed there, you will see that there are many more aftermarket studs than what a parts house will have. Find a stud that matches the hole in your rotor/hub. There is NO OEM app for a stud with both the knurl size and length you need.

http://www.jegs.com/p/ARP/ARP-Wheel-Studs/747558/10002/-1
http://www.jegs.com/c/Wheels/11715/10002/-1

 

[Nosman]

There is a key piece of info missing here. What lug nuts do these wheels take? Do they have a tapered seat, or is the face flat where the wheel nut goes. I've been in the business a long time and I still see people putting the wrong nuts on all the time. The fact that you said you tried an SS/t style nut says that you may not be sure of nut style. If it is a tapered seat, Dorman or one of the other aftermarket companies should have a stud to fit your application.

 

[larry_g]

Doing a bit more looking around it seems that you have a Mustang II front disc? Is that correct? Do you have the specs on the knurl length and the overall length you need? Are you hung up on a specific thread size? I realize that having the same threads front and back is nice to have but not mandatory. Most custom wheels don't care about the thread pitch, just select the proper nut that connects the wheel to the stud. Have you checked with the wheel mfg for help?

lg
no neat sig line

 

[Slick6]

I just went through this recently as well with my '62 Chevy. The brake kit came with studs that had a much larger knurling size than stock. Rather than trying to drill larger and/or having to pay somebody to do it, I was able to find the correct studs in a longer length for $20.

I got my studs from Moser, they might have something that will work for you.
http://www.moserengineering.com/other-parts/studs.html

My studs were 7/16"-20 x 1 3/4" with a .480 knurl diameter, Moser part #8259. Won't work in your case, but may help someone in the future.

 

[mad57]

Well in a nut shell the rotors are at my local machine shop to get drilled to spec within .05 and.08 of the new knurled stud. there will be no knurl inside the rotor. they tell me that they do all the race cars here locally and never had a problem the knurl from the stud will cut into the rotor and when removed will leave a knurl behind if i need to replace. I tryed all parts stores looking for the right stud even in other metric form, problem was they didnt have a conversion chart and wanted me to go in person and mic it by hand. there might be the perfect metric equal out there. as far as lug nuts its the acorn tapered style ones that fit the rim seat, i had only tryed to see if sst style lugs fit . thks for the help will let you know how this turns out.

 

[rburke65]

You could ask the folks on "ChevyTalk.org". If it's on, in, or under a Chevy, and anywhere from a 1912 to 2011, these people are a great source of information.

 

[Falcon67]

if it's a press in stud, I usually just go through the Dorman catalog to find what I need.
http://www.dormanproducts.com/c-778-wheel-studs.aspx

 

[gorilla]

I hope that you mean .005" and .008"not .05" and .08". That would be way too loose.