Disconnect question (code requirements)

[aka Larry]

Guys, my electrician says I'll need a disconnect for my air compressor and lift based on the distance from the panel box.

What is the max distance before this is needed per the code? Also is this a linear distance (i.e. along the wire run) or an "as the crow files" kind of deal?

My 'plan' before I learned of this was to run the wire from the panel to a junction box with EMT and then hardwire to the device using a short run of AC cable.

FWIW, I have no problem doing it 'right'. I just want to make sure I know what that is.

 

[malibu101]

The disconnect must be within 50' AND within sight of the equipment.

 

[aka Larry]

The disconnect must be within 50' AND within sight of the equipment.

So if the air compressor is 40' away (and within sight) of the panel box, the breaker can be considered the 'disconnect'?

 

[malibu101]

So if the air compressor is 40' away (and within sight) of the panel box, the breaker can be considered the 'disconnect'?

In my experience, yes it can.

EDIT-
Look at the 2nd question (and drawing) in this link
http://ecmweb.com/qampa/stumped-code-february-2011

A little more info- http://www.iaei.org/magazine/2003/01/disconnecting-means-for-motor-and-air-conditioning-equipment/

 

[Stuart in MN]

While the breaker can be considered the disconnect point if you meet the criteria above, it can be handy to have a local disconnect anyway - in any case you'll need a junction point next to the compressor or hoist to make the transition from hard wired to flexible cord, and that can be done just as easily with a disconnect as a junction box. You can get a cheap residential air conditioner disconnect at most hardware stores or big box stores for $10 or $15 that should do the trick.

Note: this advise is based on the national electric code - we don't know where you live (or even if you're in the US) so local requirements may be different.

 

[jeff000]

A small disconnect like you would need is about 30 bucks.
It's real nice to be able to easily lock off (which is hard to do on a breaker) the power while working on it.

 

[aka Larry]

While the breaker can be considered the disconnect point if you meet the criteria above, it can be handy to have a local disconnect anyway - in any case you'll need a junction point next to the compressor or hoist to make the transition from hard wired to flexible cord, and that can be done just as easily with a disconnect as a junction box. You can get a cheap residential air conditioner disconnect at most hardware stores or big box stores for $10 or $15 that should do the trick.

For some crazy reason I was thinking (breaker-----EMT------Junction box-----disconnect------equipment).

The disconnect is only like $10 from Lowes and I could just skip the junction box in the above run.

Thanks guys!