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Dismantling a two post lift

greggo

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Nov 22, 2010
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15
Hello to all:
I have a chance to pick up a 9,000 LB two post lift for a good price,but the dismantling of it looks tricky. The sheetrock ceiling is about 8 1/2' tall and the top column of the lift is bolted to it. In other words I can't lift the lift vertical to get it off the anchors. I believe the lift was there first then the ceiling was put in as a remodeling job

I'm going to assume that there are ceiling joists that the top column is bolted to.


It might be possible to hammer down the floor anchors paste the base plate but I'm not sure how to lean the columns down.

I will probably have to cut out some sheetrock and maybe twist the columns into a joist bay ??

Thanks Greg
 
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Buckgnarly

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Jack up the posts enough to cut the studs. Sounds like a tight fit and you will probably mess up the ceiling anyway.
 
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greggo

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Nov 22, 2010
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Thanks for the reply:
Jack up the posts enough to cut the studs. Sounds like a tight fit and you will probably mess up the ceiling anyway.

I don't think I can jack up the post. If the guy laid the ceiling joist on top of the columns I'm not sure how much wiggle room I got.

I think what this guy did was ,He had the lift in a bay,then decided to build a second story to the garage. He should have gotten rid of the lift. Instead he enclosed the garage around the lift.
Not sure what he was going to work on ,because with a car on the lift and the 8-8/1'2 ceiling height he would only be able to bring the car up a couple of feet no higher.
 

brownbagg

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drive the anchors down, most time people drive completely through the slab, so 99% they will drive into the subgrade
 

Capt Crash

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When I bought mine here is how I did it. I disconnected the wiring and took off the fluid tank. I loosened all of the nuts, and then I used a prybar to lift the posts up enough so that I could use a angle grinder with a cut off wheel. I then cut the anchors, and then I disconnected the crossbar that was above the lift. I moved the 2 posts together in the middle of the garage where there was slightly more space. I used ratchet straps to bind both posts together and also strapped the bottom of the posts to the trailer so that the feet wouldn't kick out. I had a friend with an ATV lower both posts down together with the winch right on to the trailer. Once the posts were past the 45deg break over point I had a bunch of guys to catch and lower it. It was very heavy.
Brian
 

rburke65

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We just unbolted the base plates and tipped over the posts onto a trailer. Yes....heavy. We were only able to do about 30..35 mph on the way home as the trailer was too *** heavy and weaving all over.
 

lakeroadster

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A 2 post lift with the columns fastened to the building... :headscrat

Can you post up some photo's and give us some additional information on the lift?

Is it a one piece column? Lot's of ideas but without knowing more about the lift it's hard for us to help much.

When I dismantled my Rotary I rocked the column by hand and slid two short 2x4's under the base plate, then tipped the column over.

In your case you could rock it just enough to slip some wedges under the edge of the base plate, just a slight bit thicker than a cut off wheel that you'll use to cut the anchors.

But regardless, if it's a one piece column when you go to tilt the column over it will arc upward.. no getting around that.
 
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matt_i

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As was mentioned above you might get lucky if the anchor bolt holes were drilled all the way thru. You need some sort of a punch to continue the effort.

If during that process one stops short, i think the only good idea is to use a corded drill and carefully try to core it out. Depending on how short you might save time but cutting it off closer to the top of the foot-flange. Also I would take a Dremel tool in case the hole gets off center. Some hand grinding with the dental bit would finish it off below the surface with some patience.
 

c39er

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Seattle, Washington
The lift has to come out...
Do what ya gotta do to get it!
You could.... if your'e good with a Oxy/ Acetylene torch.....burn the anchors flush.
 

The Cobbler

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you need to make arrangements with the owner & do some investigative work such cut out the drywall to see what you're up against.
what liabilities do you have as far as damages to the property , repair work required etc.
once you have that you can easier decide if it's worth proceeding .
can you cut 6" off the top of the posts to make it easier to get down.
 
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Vegaman_Dan

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Depending on the clearance between the top of the posts and the ceiling, it's likely the posts will jab into the ceiling when you tilt it over as the foot plate is wider than the column, meaning it will jam against the ceiling either way. I expect the solution here will be removing a 12" square of sheetrock above the column and be a patch job.

Really, that's the homeowner's issue, not yours.
 

Falcon67

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First, you'll need to get above the ceiling if possible and see what it's attached to. If there is a 2nd story, then that's likely out. So the only way out will be to drive the studs into the floor - I'd cut them off as close to flush with the base first so you don't have to drive them far. Then you'll want to cut some slots in the ceiling just to the side of the posts. Walk the posts sideways to the slots cut in the sheetrock and lay them down. You can get an idea by what I did to raise my 9' 3" posts in a 8' ceiling. There will be some sheetrock repair, like it or not. If the seller isn't up for that, too bad - have them call you when they figure out there isn't another way LOL.

Your's may not need to be this long at 8 1/2', but you'll need room to tip out.
RightPost1.jpg


They take a big sweep on the up/down swing
LeftPost1.jpg
 
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greggo

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Nov 22, 2010
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I should have been more detailed.It is an Eagle 9k baseplate model.Two stage arms. About 14 years old.Only used once.I mean its in mint condition. I called Eagle, parts are very iffy.The lift came out of Mass. when Eagle was there not in N.C. The guy selling it (for a friend)was a little hesitant about cutting the sheetrock. If he wants it out the sheetrock will have to be cut.And I'm not patching it. I told the guy selling it that I'm gonna pass. I found a better deal on a brand new Forward 10DP10A Which is what I need to lift my GMC 2500HD crew cab.

The house is being foreclosed on and I told the seller if he can't get rid of the lift call me and we can work something out

I'm having trouble letting this deal go though.Price was only $600


Am I being greedy to want 2 lifts lol

A big THANK YOU for all the replys!!!

If I do go for the lift you guys gave me all the info I need to get it out of there!!
 
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Falcon67

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>he guy selling it (for a friend)was a little hesitant about cutting the sheetrock.

LOL - having walked through a bunch of foreclosures, a little dry wall patching on a garage ceiling ain't nothing. The house across the street - a 175~190K type home - was a repop and required a new roof, interior patching, foundation repair (slab on grade, say what?) and one of the two 2.5 ton AC units is dead. We bought ours as a repo - replaced all carpet, painted every wall, replaced baseboard, electrical and plumbing repairs.

Typical repo here will be missing all appliances and fixtures - including lights, fans, etc - probably have wall damage and other misc neglect items like no AC filters or filters not changed in a year, loose toilets, leaking faucets - you name it.

I'd tell him $500 and I'll patch well enough they could paint over it. I guarantee the bank won't care one whit, they are crazy lackadaisical about re-po maintenance and repair. If they repair at all.
 
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greggo

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>he guy selling it (for a friend)was a little hesitant about cutting the sheetrock.

LOL - having walked through a bunch of foreclosures, a little dry wall patching on a garage ceiling ain't nothing. The house across the street - a 175~190K type home - was a repop and required a new roof, interior patching, foundation repair (slab on grade, say what?) and one of the two 2.5 ton AC units is dead. We bought ours as a repo - replaced all carpet, painted every wall, replaced baseboard, electrical and plumbing repairs.

Typical repo here will be missing all appliances and fixtures - including lights, fans, etc - probably have wall damage and other misc neglect items like no AC filters or filters not changed in a year, loose toilets, leaking faucets - you name it.

I'd tell him $500 and I'll patch well enough they could paint over it. I guarantee the bank won't care one whit, they are crazy lackadaisical about re-po maintenance and repair. If they repair at all.

Your killin me! lol. I keep going back and forth on it. Its really a little small for my needs but the price seems real good for the condition its in. And I do have a 3 bay garage
 
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greggo

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First, you'll need to get above the ceiling if possible and see what it's attached to. If there is a 2nd story, then that's likely out. So the only way out will be to drive the studs into the floor - I'd cut them off as close to flush with the base first so you don't have to drive them far. Then you'll want to cut some slots in the ceiling just to the side of the posts. Walk the posts sideways to the slots cut in the sheetrock and lay them down. You can get an idea by what I did to raise my 9' 3" posts in a 8' ceiling. There will be some sheetrock repair, like it or not. If the seller isn't up for that, too bad - have them call you when they figure out there isn't another way LOL.

Your's may not need to be this long at 8 1/2', but you'll need room to tip out.
RightPost1.jpg


They take a big sweep on the up/down swing
LeftPost1.jpg

You have a nice set up there!
 

Falcon67

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Thanks! Lots of work in that shop. Lift does well, still have to get around to tray-ing the ceiling for a bit more height.

W-9FLiftwCar.jpg
 
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greggo

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The only problem is its like a room where the lift is with junk all over. Once I see what is in the ceiling I think I could pry it up as long as the guy didn't rest the ceiling joist on top of the columns. And then I could use an angle grinder to cut the anchors.
Hopefully not light the place on fire.
 

Daedalus

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First, you'll need to get above the ceiling if possible and see what it's attached to. If there is a 2nd story, then that's likely out. So the only way out will be to drive the studs into the floor - I'd cut them off as close to flush with the base first so you don't have to drive them far. Then you'll want to cut some slots in the ceiling just to the side of the posts. Walk the posts sideways to the slots cut in the sheetrock and lay them down. You can get an idea by what I did to raise my 9' 3" posts in a 8' ceiling. There will be some sheetrock repair, like it or not. If the seller isn't up for that, too bad - have them call you when they figure out there isn't another way LOL.

Your's may not need to be this long at 8 1/2', but you'll need room to tip out.
RightPost1.jpg


They take a big sweep on the up/down swing
LeftPost1.jpg

That's what I did with my Bendpak...except it has ~12' posts. 8' ceiling, and the darn ridge was only 11' high! It wasn't pretty, but it worked!
 

Falcon67

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LOL, squeeze play. I though about the clear floor version, the posts would have been just right on the ridge board more or less.
 
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greggo

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Nov 22, 2010
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I passed on it. If I didnt have my truck to lift I would have grabbed it. Thank You every one that chimed in

Greg
 
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