Distributed Air: Old School

[rokemester]

I picked up a 2hp oil filled 20 gallon Campbell Hausfeld air compressor on local Craigslist. I've studied numerous pipe threads on this forum and because of moisture control and safety considering either black pipe or type M copper. The compressor outlet is 1/4" and I want to plumb 1/2 - 3/4" lines from the attic which is directly above the garage shop work space. I'll probably go with 2-3 drops. Most diagrams show the compressor below or at ground level and feeding up. Anyone have tips on feeding down with a smaller compressor like mine? I haven't seen many fittings that get me from 1/4" to the larger pipe.
I'm figuring this setup will be better than having the heart stopping 5hp oiless in the shop next to me.

 

[matt_i]

I think its worthwhile to still have a loop "up" for a ways in the attic. Just to keep the initial moisture in a "low point" where you can drain it. Otherwise it will all flow straight down to the drops.

I would just use a hex pipe bushing in a coupling, attached to the larger pipe. For example, on 1/2" black pipe run, install a 1/2" coupling, then a 1/2" to 1/4" NPT hex bushing. If using copper, sweat on the 1/2" NPT female coupling, then the same hex bushing but I would use brass instead of steel.

For your flex connection you can use a regular airline or a hydraulic hose. If you go with hydraulic hose I'd have it made with JIC female swivels on the hose and then use NPT male to NPT-JIC adapters on either end. JIC uses the number system where the # is the # of 16ths in the ID. So #6 = 3/8".

 

[larry4406]

My flex hose came from Tractor Supply Center and is a hydraulic hose with NPT ends. I did have to use an NPT union.

 

[rokemester]

This is extremely helpful direction! I was wondering whether to go high or low coming off the compressor. Now I know I should go high and incorporate a rider in the attic feed line. Great input on the compressor 1/4" feedline to air distribution piping. I've read that I should position the water separator far away from the compressor. Should I just plumb them into the drop circuits?

 

[OccupantRJ]

I have a 3/4" water seperator on my main line, but I also have a portable setup with a seperator and regulator with quick couplings which allow me to snap it into the nearest available port to give a bit of extra pressure control and water removal right where I want it.

I have a hook on top of it to allow me to hang it on a port when not in use, or to hang it on a sawhorse very close to a point where I may be painting an item. This helps with pressure drop on long hose runs if painting machine parts outside on a nice day.

 

[rokemester]

Good tip on the mobile water separator. Thanks. I've tried to include a few pics of my new to me old school compressor. Not sure how to rotate images, sorry about that!

 

[OccupantRJ]

Try taking pics in landscape mode. Phone long right to left. It worked for me.

 

[nine4gmc]

You probably want to have the water separator within reach for draining, maybe come out of the compressor and go UP for a ways, then drop it down out of your ceiling a few feet to the water separator, then back up to the line that feeds the drops.

 

[dave89iroc]

Don't forget access to the tank drain, or extend it down to an accessible ball valve

 

[rokemester]

I see a significant copper pipe bill in my near future! All of your input is providing me with a much clearer view of my eventual set up. Here is a glimpse of my single car shop space. Good suggestion on shooting landscape with phone!

 

[rokemester]

Does putting a 1/4" NPT filter/regulator/lubricator in the circuit restrict flow? Many of them seem to have smaller inlet/outlet size. I'll probably go with 1/2" lines for my system.

 

[BoilermakerFan]

Size the filter to the scfm output of your compressor. Unlike oil or water filters, bigger is not better with compressed air. If you use an oversized filter it doesn't filter to the stated rating of the element. For example, if it's a 5 micron filter and oversized, it will pass 7-8 micron particles. After the filter, the piping can be any size you want.

 

[rokemester]

Excellent! Thanks.

 

[rokemester]

Has anyone considered or dealt with a system where the compressor is located above their shop? I have a ledge that runs around the perimeter of my shop. It would be more practical to drop to the ledge shelf and then have risers vs drops. Kind of like if I were to turn the TP Tools system layout upside down.

 

[larry4406]

Has anyone considered or dealt with a system where the compressor is located above their shop? I have a ledge that runs around the perimeter of my shop. It would be more practical to drop to the ledge shelf and then have risers vs drops. Kind of like if I were to turn the TP Tools system layout upside down.

I ran my system with risers vs drops in my old garage. Last post of this thread has pictures of it.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6994

 

[rokemester]

Wow, that thread had a great deal of useful information in it including the pictures of your install. Excellent. Thanks for the link! At least I know I'm not crazy to consider risers vs drops as long as I provide water drain off locations throughout my small system.

 

[Citation]

Is this install over kill for the job? What about just getting a Rapid air kit?

 

[rokemester]

I've been concerned about making sure the piping allows the water to condense properly based on what I've read. I certainly have considered it but the purists seem to have reservations.

 

[larry_g]

If you have problems going up out of your receiver you can go out and down a convenient wall to a Tee. The feeder line will continue through the Tee and straight down to a drain valve. Coming off the Tee at a 90* angle will be the feed line to the shop air, filters regulators and water separators. Moisture in the system will collect in the drop leg to be blown out with the valve.

lg
no neat sig line