hoylebros
Active member
What lights did you go with? How many? Looks awesome!
DIY 26'x40' detached build
- Thread starter Bsj04
- Start date
8x8' that each hold 4-4' t8 bulbs and 2x4' 2 bulb t8 fixtures from Home Depot. Total 36, 32w bulbs.
hoylebros
Active member
Thanks for the quick response!
metalhead140
Well-known member
Wow, nice work, great looking building. Good effort doing it almost all yourself/with friends too. Keep us updated as you sort out the inside won't you!
Andretti
New member
I'm new to this site and planning a possible man cave. Just wanted to say I've really enjoyed your thread and appreciate the effort you've made posting everything up.
My favorite post was you working with your dad on the siding. Congrats!
My favorite post was you working with your dad on the siding. Congrats!
msgross
Well-known member
how are you liking the sealer on the floor? I'm thinking of the same product... Did you use a 9" roller or 18"?
Did you etch the concrete first?
THanks.
Did you etch the concrete first?
THanks.
It looked great at first but I think due to my poor application it's not holding up well. It was too cold when I put it down. I did a test spot in my house garage when it was warm and it's holding up great. I've got enough left over im going sand it off with a floor buffer and do it again. I didn't not etch the concrete and just used a regular 9" roller.
msgross
Well-known member
Might etch the concrete with muratic acid and a scrub brush. Simply dilute with water and scrub it on, wash it off and let it dry.
rwreuter
Well-known member
SWEET!!!
I am going to build me a 30x40, offset at angle with siding on the sides and back and then brick all the way to the roof to mirror my house with a open air breeze or walk way and roof connecting my house garage with the detached(about 40 feet). I was thinking it would cost me around 50K to build the things, basically doing it as you are.
But the 20K was a real surprise! When it was all said and done, without the driveway did you end up staying below 25K? I would think that the driveway probably ran you close to 10k alone.
Thanks for posting the pictures, inspiring, nice idea to have a loft just over the garage doors.
Rob
Either way, there is hope for me and my build.
I am going to build me a 30x40, offset at angle with siding on the sides and back and then brick all the way to the roof to mirror my house with a open air breeze or walk way and roof connecting my house garage with the detached(about 40 feet). I was thinking it would cost me around 50K to build the things, basically doing it as you are.
But the 20K was a real surprise! When it was all said and done, without the driveway did you end up staying below 25K? I would think that the driveway probably ran you close to 10k alone.
Thanks for posting the pictures, inspiring, nice idea to have a loft just over the garage doors.
Rob
Either way, there is hope for me and my build.
Yeah it was right about $25k for the shell with electrical including all light fixtures and running 100 amp service 170'. The driveway was $6300, 2000 sq ft @ $3.15. I think insulation and osb for the interior will cost me another $3k.
I don't know what I'll ever use the loft for but maybe someday it'll be useful.
rwreuter
Well-known member
what was the total length of the driveway?
Nam11b
Member
I am looking to build something similar in size and found your thread. Looks great, you make it look easy!
Besides sealing the floor and nail gun safety
any other lessons learned that you would share?
Besides sealing the floor and nail gun safety
any other lessons learned that you would share?I am looking to build something similar in size and found your thread. Looks great, you make it look easy!
Besides sealing the floor and nail gun safety
Plan ahead and get everything figured out before start. This is a list of things I would have changed.
-Figure out where electric would enter the building and put conduit in the concrete. Mine has conduit running up the outside wall.
-Find the best concrete crew you can. I wish my floor was flatter, there is a 1/2" dip/hump right In the middle where I walk, It drives me nuts!
-Brace the walls really good before installing trusses. My walls started bowing out while installing the trusses. I had to cut some of the trusses loose and use a ratchet strap the adjust the walls, then reattach the trusses. Not a big deal just a pain in the ***.
-order the trusses overhangs a little long so you can run a string line and cut them all perfectly straight so your facia isn't all wavy and out of wack.
-Hire a roofing crew, The cost is worth it.
-Learn your attention span. After about 3-4 hours of hard work my "give-a-*******" quits working and my work starts getting sloppy. It's time to quit working at that point, you will end up re-doing some stuff.
-build your pad up higher then you think. I thought the finished height of my concerte 4" above grade would be fine but should have went 8". I don't have flooding problems but my siding is only 3" above the dirt on one side.
Awesome post! I'm looking at starting my own project and came across this site and your posting. The "shed" looks fantastic and I really appreciate the pictures of the different phases of the build.
So I was thinking 24x40 with half attic trusts. So any comment on how you found the size of yours after you started using it would be helpful.
Also thinking of adding a drain in the floor since I live in the North East .. hopefully that won't preclude you or anyone from helping out .. lol
So I was thinking 24x40 with half attic trusts. So any comment on how you found the size of yours after you started using it would be helpful.
Also thinking of adding a drain in the floor since I live in the North East .. hopefully that won't preclude you or anyone from helping out .. lol
I went 26' wide because I wanted 10' wide doors. Then 2' between the doors and on both sides. There is room to open car doors all the way but you can't walk past an open door. Other then that the width is fine. I was never planning on work benches or cabinets down the walls. My little utility room filled up pretty quick also but once I finish out the inside I'll put some cabinets on the wall in front of the single deep bay and free up some room In the closet.
Bottom line build as big as you have room for and can afford. It can never be too big. 28x44 would have been nice, little more width and deep enough to leave my truck hooked up to my 16' trailer sometimes.
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Nam11b
Member
Great advice. I was already planning on running conduit up through the slab for power and plan on running rough plumbing so I can finish water/sewer later.
Concrete will be a challenge. I will be asking quotes and checking references/BBB, but it can still be a pain in the ****.
Now that it's starting to cool back down in starting to finish out the interior. All wiring is completed and have Internet setup and working. Wires have been run for whichever a/c system I decide to do.
Lowes had insulation on sale for 20% off so I went and loaded up with everything I should need. R30 ceiling and R13 walls. There is a few spots where I had to use R19 on the ceiling.
Got the ceiling insulation completed and it's nice to be able to use a heater in there now and not loose all the heat through the ridge and soffit vents.
This week I started sheeting the loft with OSB. Just need to do the front wall and then I can put everything back up there and get it all off the floor.
So far I'm happy with my progress and I'm trying to keep my gaps tight as possible. I am trying to have minimal trim work to do and will caulk the seems if I decide to paint later down the road.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Lowes had insulation on sale for 20% off so I went and loaded up with everything I should need. R30 ceiling and R13 walls. There is a few spots where I had to use R19 on the ceiling.
Got the ceiling insulation completed and it's nice to be able to use a heater in there now and not loose all the heat through the ridge and soffit vents.
This week I started sheeting the loft with OSB. Just need to do the front wall and then I can put everything back up there and get it all off the floor.
So far I'm happy with my progress and I'm trying to keep my gaps tight as possible. I am trying to have minimal trim work to do and will caulk the seems if I decide to paint later down the road.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
jopickens
Well-known member
Nice!
rarebreed
Well-known member
looks like my company came through for you with the Mini Ex
I'm guessing it worked well for the job.I finally finished the ceiling with the help of my dad and neighbor. We stood on top of 11' worth of scaffolding to get the top rows of OSB at the peak. We worked from the top down. There is also a cut out in the ceiling on the deep bay for a 2 post lift to poke up a little higher the my ceiling is.
I also did OSB in one corner so I could install my cabinets. Top is 3, 36" wide uppers and the bottom is 2, 36" bases with a 24" gap for a mini fridge then a small 12" base at the corner.
My helper this morning.
The top is 2, 5/8" plywood screwed and glued that will be covered with 3/4" solid oak flooring. It should be right around 2" thick when it's finished.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I also did OSB in one corner so I could install my cabinets. Top is 3, 36" wide uppers and the bottom is 2, 36" bases with a 24" gap for a mini fridge then a small 12" base at the corner.
My helper this morning.
The top is 2, 5/8" plywood screwed and glued that will be covered with 3/4" solid oak flooring. It should be right around 2" thick when it's finished.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
The counter top turned out nice. Real thick and sturdy. It has a hand scraped distressed finish so I'm not too worried about using it.
Also painted the cabinets. I used a brush with enamel paint for the frames and used a harbor freight HVLP gun to shoot the doors. Turned out pretty good for being the first time to use a paint gun. The enamel paint was real forgiving, I had a few runs I brushed out while wet and once it dried I couldn't even tell.
Project almost finished, I want to install some door pulls to help break up the color some. View from upstairs.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Also painted the cabinets. I used a brush with enamel paint for the frames and used a harbor freight HVLP gun to shoot the doors. Turned out pretty good for being the first time to use a paint gun. The enamel paint was real forgiving, I had a few runs I brushed out while wet and once it dried I couldn't even tell.
Project almost finished, I want to install some door pulls to help break up the color some. View from upstairs.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
1/2 Cup
Member Emeritus
Nice, super nice in fact. Well done.
marksland
Well-known member
Great build!! I am in the process of designing and getting bids for a 30' x 40' x 12' high walls build (very much like yours). How deep and wide is your loft area? Does your open area comfortably leave enough room for a lift?
The loft is 14' deep and 12' wide leaving the lift Bay Area almost 26' deep which should be deep enough for most cars and trucks. I plan to install the a Symetric lift backwards where you reverse into it and the front of the vehicle is in the middle of the shop.
Rockcam
Well-known member
Which attic ladder did you end up with? My layout is very similar, as is ceiling height. Having trouble finding one for ceilings over 10' in aluminum.
Looks great by the way.
Looks great by the way.
DC73
Well-known member
Years ago, I built a storage building with OSB interior walls like you've done. I ended up painting them with Latex primer and paint. Turned out to be a mistake. The Latex paint soaked into the OSB and lifted some of the chips creating bubbles. Later found out I should have used a different primer for OSB. Maybe your OSB is different but you might want to test paint a sample before painting the whole shop.
But, painting the OSB white was the right decision. It really brightened up the space and made the minimal lighting more effective.
Good luck.
DC
W
I bought a Louisville brand one from lowes. It said up to 10'3" and my ceiling is right at 10' 4 1/2". It was long enough on the last adjustment. If it was too short I was going to put a 2x4 under it when it was down or figure something out.
It honestly only fits where I put it by 1/4", the legs clear the frame by 1/4" and when the legs are folding out there is about 1/4" clearance between them and the garage door tracks. Really close but it worked out.
I bought a Louisville brand one from lowes. It said up to 10'3" and my ceiling is right at 10' 4 1/2". It was long enough on the last adjustment. If it was too short I was going to put a 2x4 under it when it was down or figure something out.
It honestly only fits where I put it by 1/4", the legs clear the frame by 1/4" and when the legs are folding out there is about 1/4" clearance between them and the garage door tracks. Really close but it worked out.
vntperformance
Well-known member
Wow, you do some amazing work. $6300 for a 130' driveway is awfully cheap for concrete, no?
Thanks! My friend got his driveway done a little cheaper by the same crew. I knew they would do a great job so I let them do it. Their price was on the lower end of average around here. I paid $3.15 a sq foot, most over the phone quotes I got were $3.25-$4 a foot
bunks-tj
Well-known member
I love this one. So practical. I am sure you will be amazed at how many uses there are for the attic space.
Also I really appreciate your candor abut cost. I wish more folks gave cost information. It is really helpful for some of us during planning.
I wish there was a thread with a picture and approximate cost of a lot of these builds. That would help me
anyway, Cheers
Also I really appreciate your candor abut cost. I wish more folks gave cost information. It is really helpful for some of us during planning.
I wish there was a thread with a picture and approximate cost of a lot of these builds. That would help me
anyway, Cheers
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arxpress
New member
Looks great! I am still in the planning stages now and am going to build one similar to this in size. (probably 28' x 32')
captain14
Well-known member
Can you post a photo of the ladder down in the garage area? I was trying to look for the access point in the ceiling but could not see it. I like how you boxed in the ladder I the loft area.
Good looking build and I know you are proud of it.
Good looking build and I know you are proud of it.
kjenkins41
Member
- Joined
- Dec 6, 2013
- Messages
- 20
Awesome build! Is that bench top just solid 3/4" wood flooring tacked onto OSB? Great idea!
~ KJ
~ KJ
Yeah just regular 3/4" #2 solid oak tongue and grove flooring nailed and glued to plywood. Its 2 layers of 5/8" plywood staggered to make up 9' of length. The trim around the outer edge is 1"x3" (actual 3/4"x2 1/2") routed with a 3/8" round bit top and bottom. I have about $100 in the top, a butcher block top would have been a lot more money.
