DIY Car Ramp

[CGarcia]

Does anyone here use rhinoramps? And have you layed them on their side and stood on them? They flex like crazy, yet most people dont hesitate to put their car on them. I wonder if it's only because they are store bought, not homemade. Just a thought.

 

[demondriven]

My brother has the rhino ramps I wont go under the car with them to flimsy for my taste. I Love the triangle idea I think that will be safe enough I would climb under it. My second floor of my house has less support granted I dont park my car up there but IM certain I could and it wouldn't collapse the house. Personally I have thought about doing the same thing but decided it was cheaper and easier to store some 12 ton jack stands gets the cars high enough for me to do what I gotta do. Isnt the fastest thing int he world getting them up there but its a trade off. But looking forward to a finished pic.

 

[tomsmith]

*Update: Good grief, the pics didn't resize like my original ones. Apologise in advance for the huge pictures*

Hey ChristopherLutz and others, thanks for input. The issue for me isn't so much money as it is engineering. Money is a secondary factory. I've always been interested in building stuff and the engineering/mechanics behind it. For example, take a look at my home built workbench/tool storage area. If anyone is interested, I can post more pics but this is an example where I made my own workbench rather than buying a pre-built one. Mine cost me around $400 in materials and is so solid I can easily walk / jump on it without any movement/flexing .. and I'm around 215lbs

The racer ramps are a great example .. they cost $2800 but in reality, they're not so dissimilar to my idea. I could spend $3000 on a two post car lift but in the end, what it means is:

1. I'd have to cut out and pour new concrete where the posts will be placed. My new garage floor was poured using 4500psi 4" concrete but I would be much happier knowing that I had a 6" pad made of 7000psi+ concrete. I wouldn't have the entire pad poured, but I would cut out a 3'x3' section for each post. Probably cost $1,000.

2. I'd have to get rid of my brand new $500 belt drive garage door opener and replace it with a LiftMaster 3800 (another $600 inclusive of installation) so that I can raise my car without it hitting the existing garage door opener.

Now, if I worked on my car reguarly this could be a sound investment, but I don't need to fix stuff on it frequently. A car lift would definetely be cool, but would also be overkill for me.

I guess the question from an engineering perspective is:

1. Are 3 vertical 2x12's strong enough to hold around 2,300 lbs?
2. Is the blocking I'm using strong enough to prevent side to side motion?
3. Is additional bracing required to prevent it from tipping from side to side if the load isn't evenly balanced? (The answer is yes)
4. What else can I do to make it better?

 

[srmofo]

1.absoluetly,and technically it's 6 2bys

2.the blocking is probably enough to prevent racking, but it doesn't help with tipping.

4. I would have designed it from the ground up with a pyramid shape.wider at the bottom than it is tall.

The, most dangerous time is going to be while driving onto it when only the front wheels are on, and if you have a stubborn bolt.

What about drilling some concrete anchors? It can just be un bolted when not in use.like you said its not that often.

 

[dankicksass]

I no longer like the one with lights.

 

[SharkD]

Does anyone here use rhinoramps? And have you layed them on their side and stood on them? They flex like crazy, yet most people dont hesitate to put their car on them. I wonder if it's only because they are store bought, not homemade. Just a thought.

The thing is, the Rhino ramps are designed to take the load on their top, not their side. And, my 235lbs (not pure muscle, sadly) can't get my grey Rhino ramps to flex, on the side or the top. (I did have to build shallow ramps, out of sistered 4x4's to reduce the approach angle from ~13° to less than 8°, to get my E24 on them, though.)

They're also, not made of wood, which tends to warp, crack and sag and they feature quite a bit of triangulation.

 

[twostory]

My two cents (since you asked) - pick up a few extra shifts at work and get a proper lift or ramps designed expressely for this sort of thing.

Your life (I hope) is worth more than $2-3k, it's not worth the risk.

I agree with this opinion.

Here is something to consider. I have seen slightly used 4 post lift on Craigslist for $1,400 (almost brand new). You would have to disassemble, move, reassemble.

I have also seen used midrise lifts for $600 to $400. Just have to move it to you garage, it is portable. (the $400 one was very used).

 

[Black Moon]

I bought a new 9,000# lift for $1,450. No shipping because it was local. Buy a lift. You'll love it and find things to work on.

 

[930carson]

I have an E32 seven series, I agree it is horrible to lift and place jack stands. I lift it with a three ton jack and place a standard ramp under each wheel. The ramps stack and take up very little floor space. Unless you are pulling the transmission you don't need a ton of clearance to do most jobs and will have access from the side rather than having to make the long crawl from the front or back.

 

[nate379]

Wow you guys certainly know how to make a guy laugh!

Some of the stands on this thread... well I would be comfortable putting a medium-duty truck on it with no problem.

I'm not sure what it would take to make a few of you feel warm and fuzzy about the design but I guess it's much much much more than me.

 

[oldgoat]

Of course nate the opposite can be true. Some people will crawl underneath anything. Trouble is it only takes one time for a oops and you won't have to worry about the second time. It is, just for me anyway, that the basic plan lacked a little. Not saying that it wouldn't work, or that I would never crawl underneath one using it, but I am saying that if I was looking I'd want a better plan.

 

[rmousir]

well i use wooden ramps.. 2x12s

Top piece down..

2'
2.5'
3'
3.5'
4'

That gives me about 7.5" of height which is plenty.

Then when the front of the car is up. I can jack up the back and put my 2x12 blocks under the rear wheels. This is basically the same thing as the rino rear wheel blocks. I made them 2' long 12" wide and 7.5" tall. Stop blocks on them and I stack them off to the side when I am not using them.

Never had a problem with them. I guess if I really wanted I could build 2 more ramps so I can drive up with all 4 wheels. Maybe I will do that for my next exhaust project.

This is Garage Forums. Wood is very strong when used properly. And cost factory always being considered I could see a system like this working just fine. Looking at that corvette url I didn't get to see the interior design so it could be very well strong enough as it appears. Some cross bracing would be required for me though, especially with something that high.

My initial reason for building what I have was due to the incline. I have my cars pretty low. These work just fine.

I will have to remember to take pictures the next time I have them out and am using them.

Oh, side note, my neighbor has some (my first set) that are 2x10s.. They seemed a little narrow for my taste. He has a nice little Toyota car so his tires are only 6" wide. Seemed fine for that. Wider is better and more stable I say. Anyway I've never had a problem but he was worried about them sliding so he bolts his down on to the garage floor with some anchors. When done they are put away and only 4 anchors are in the floor waiting for the next time they are needed.

Just my two cents.

 

[LWW]

Here are 2 lifts that accommodate low ceiling height and cost way less than $3000

I like the EZ-Car Lift better than the Kwik-Lift because it leaves the suspension free:

http://www.ezcarlift.com/

Kwik-Lift : Just like ramps... which means you can't work on your suspension.

http://www.kwiklift.com/

And for a "real" 2 post lift that will fit under a normal garage door opener:

http://www.maxjaxusa.com/

There have been more than one "Group Buy" for the MaxJax on this forum for $1800+shipping.

And, as has already been mentioned, CraigsList often has mid-rise and 4 post lifts for cheap.

 

[bazzateer]

There's only a tiny notch for the (deadly) trunk kit jack.

How is the BMW jack deadly? Please explain, with evidence.

 

[CRTDI]

Here's a relatively cheap and safe solution for you.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=63921

 

[rsieracki]

my raceramp wheel cribs in action with rhino ramps under the font wheels

 

[tyreguy25]

I see all the negativity in this thread regarding Rhinos and I have had mine since high school, or about eight years. I have no concern about them not handling the load of my little DD Kia or my wife's Chrysler minivan. I have had no problems with mine and will continue to use them. All I need is a bit more room and I would like an E21 to work on, but that is neither here nor there...

 

[SharkD]

How is the BMW jack deadly? Please explain, with evidence.

I was being hyperbolic.

When I first bought my 6er, I was being cheap and relying on the trunk jack and jackstands. One afternoon, while raising the car to R&R the brake lines, the jack didn't so much raise the car, as pull it sideways. I wasn't paying as close attention as I should have and it nearly took a chunk out of my hand when the jack slipped. (The damned thing was bent so badly that I had to replace it with a NOS jack, just so I had one in the event of an emergency.) That afternoon, I ordered a heavy-duty racing jack.

I have seen an E30 fall off of a stock trunk jack, in the paddock, during an HPDE. I can't speak to whether or not the jack was being used properly (I can say, that the owner wasn't using jack stands), but the car ended up with it's brake rotor on the asphalt.

Generic photo of the BMW trunk jack (at least it isn't a scissor jack, like my '65 Mustang had):

 

[what have i done]

here are some home made ramps...they were discussed on here a couple years ago...but to this day. I dont think they look like a terrible idea

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/terminator-archive-208/98085-perhaps-my-greatest-mod-pics.html

 

[evil_twin]

BMW jacks are not that safe IMO. My friend dropped his e36 using one just to change the wheel real quick and when he was loosening the wheel, the jack decided not to be centered and fell when he removed the wheel.

 

[nate379]

Not an option for those of us with a regular height ceiling. I suppose on a really low car you could get it almost high enough to stand under, but figure a normal truck is about 7ft tall, and with ~8ft from opening to floor... you can change the tires, that's about it.

Not to mention I don't know what kind of deal you got, but I have found a few very well used ones around that price... never brand new.

I bought a new 9,000# lift for $1,450. No shipping because it was local. Buy a lift. You'll love it and find things to work on.

 

[rmousir]

The average joe won't have $1450 to drop on something like that. I think that is why you see folks going the wood direction. FWIW.. A well done wood set up (ramps, lift, boxes, etc) can work just as well and just as safely as a lift system.

 

[SharkD]

here are some home made ramps...they were discussed on here a couple years ago...but to this day. I dont think they look like a terrible idea

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/terminator-archive-208/98085-perhaps-my-greatest-mod-pics.html

It's a better design than the OP's -- the framing is less prone to racking (at least the individual halves), the boxes are linked and the bolts are much heavier, but even with the double 2-by decking, it's already sagging under the weight. (edit: the lack of triangulation makes me question the builder's claimed engineering degree.)



It also probably weighs as much as the car.

Given that the post was from 2004, I wonder if the poster is still with the living, 6 years later.

 

[srmofo]

There is very little preventing the mustang ramp from tipping sideways. They're linked together,but the bracing needs to be diagonal to prevent tipping or racking sideways like a parallelogram.
It also doesn't look very portable.

Perhaps the way to go would be with a combination of wood for the meat of the structure and metal channel and angle for support.

 

[rmousir]

wood will work fine if it is designed right. You guys are forgetting that they make Train Bridges out of wood along with lots of buildings and bridges.

 

[Dragster Racer]

And great big roller coasters too! The comment about using diagonals is spot on. A couple proper diagonals will prevent tipping. I would like to have a generous lip to prevent going off the side too, but that's just me. The diagonals will make it more difficult to get under the car too.

 

[e-tek]

It's nice to see so many new members!!! But with newbies, comes the return of the "sky-is-falling" siren song.....

I think not only is it PLENTY stout - it'll be safe too. It's NO different than those $2800 plastic blocks above WRT tipping - whether under load or turning the wheels. It's similar in principal to the 4-post lift that isn't bolted down. While you'd think it would be all tippy way up on four long legs, it's just the OPPOSITE. The forces are all acting straight down - not side to side - unless an outside force acts upon it (like a truck slamming into it!! )
I know safety is everyone's first priority - as it is mine too - but counter to popular belief, the sky does NOT fall every day. I say the OP's design is more than well-constructed to support the load - and now that he's gonna take care of any (possible) tipping issue, I'd get under it any day.

 

[D.J.]

Ok maybe I was a little hard on the newbie, but one of my hats is a helmet and during extrication calls and training we are using cribbing, All classes I have taken we train with various sizes of wooden blocks (mostly rectangles and wedges) we are always instructed to start with a piece of plywood 2' X 2' miminum better 4' X 4' then stack largest on bottom and work our way up using same size too smaller pieces untill we get to the frame of the affected vehicle. Also air bags can be used. And the helmet belongs to the Fire Department. Illinois FF II Instructor I.
________
SOLDERING IRON VAPORIZER REVIEW

 

[tomsmith]

Gah, I just posted a response to the last post and it lost everything

Anyway, I made some steel ramps this weekend and took a few pics. I also made some triangle braces that attach to the sides of each wooden ramp to prevent them from tipping outward. a 2x4 across the ramps at each end stops them from tipping inward. The ramps and braces are made out of 10 gauge angled mild steel.

Here's a couple of pics

 

[rmousir]

very creative. I would add some 3/4" ply wood over the top of the ramps maybe. Make it easier to drive up on them. Good job!

I wanted to add, all I have done so far is make some ramps out of 2x12s. They rock and way safer and way cheaper than race ramps. They work on all my cars with out issue. I should post a pic one day.

 

[ADaughen]

Are those ramps long enough to get your car up without bottoming/scraping? The approach looks pretty steep.

 

[X1 Mike]

you couldnt put enough bracing on that for me to feel safe. If the internal or external board decides to give that will be the end. Even if you brace it all up any load to one side or the other will be directly on some wood screws....would you bet your life on some wood screws? I wouldnt.

Do you live in a wooden house? Everyone freaks about using wood but what is holding up your roof right now. I have jacked up houses using wood blocking.

 

[rmousir]

here are my simple ramps that I am very confident in and they work great.

 

[R6 Racer]

For holding a straight vertical load your ramps will hold any vehicle on the road without any problem. No vehicle out there will crush a 2x! The problem that might occur is the whole ramp tipping over sideways. Which WILL occur if your off to one side or the other when loading or unloading or if for some reason there is a side load on the vehicle. Like reafing on a stubborn nut or bolt.
A few things that might help IMHO would to take 8 more 2x8 x I think 16' long (the total length of your ramp) & screw, nail & glue 2 of them to each side of both ramps, stacked. This would widen your ramps so that they are at least square & the sides would be taller providing some indication that you are wandering to one side or the other when loading & unloading.
I would also suggest that you nail between each screw already there (your 8" interval) that way you incorporate the shearing strength of the nail & the vertical hold of the screw.
I would completely enclose one end with a 2x12 between the 2 ramps (whatever width needed for your vehicle) & 2 2x8 attached to the 2x12 that are 32" longer/wider than your 2x12 (16" at each end) attaching that brace to the one end of your ramps further increasing the lateral strength. That way you would also have an indicator that your at the end of the ramp.
Lastly I would add a 2x6(or 8) across the top at the opposite end of the closed in end brace like in the pic in the post from OneTon.

Good luck
Steve

 

[mkirkpatrick]

Check this out, looks like a good substitute for the race ramp rally ramps.

http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/showthread.php?t=61273

 

[strnjss]

Does anyone here use rhinoramps? And have you layed them on their side and stood on them? They flex like crazy, yet most people dont hesitate to put their car on them. I wonder if it's only because they are store bought, not homemade. Just a thought.

My brother has the rhino ramps I wont go under the car with them to flimsy for my taste. I Love the triangle idea I think that will be safe enough I would climb under it. My second floor of my house has less support granted I dont park my car up there but IM certain I could and it wouldn't collapse the house. Personally I have thought about doing the same thing but decided it was cheaper and easier to store some 12 ton jack stands gets the cars high enough for me to do what I gotta do. Isnt the fastest thing int he world getting them up there but its a trade off. But looking forward to a finished pic.

I have a pair of 8000lb Rhino Ramps, and they don't flex on me or anything. The heaviest vehicle I've put on them is a Grand Cherokee though. I don't know how they'd hold up to pickups or anything.

I still never feel 100% safe with just ramps though (especially plastic ones), so once it's up on ramps, I put a couple of jack stands underneath, just as a safety net in case a ramp decides to fail on me for some reason.

They may be rated for 8000 pounds, but you can never trust that. My brother bought the Perfect Pull-up exercise bar, and the handles that came with it were rated for 350lbs. They snapped on him while doing pullups, and he only weighed 160lbs at the time! They sent him new "redesigned" ones since they were having a lot of failures with the old one. Luckily he didn't fall on his head or something.

Just goes to show, you can never trust any product completely.

 

[Jon1964]

Check this out, looks like a good substitute for the race ramp rally ramps.

http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/showthread.php?t=61273

Race Ramps doesn't make a "Rally Ramps" model? Which model ramps are you talking about?

 

[Jon1964]

very creative. I would add some 3/4" ply wood over the top of the ramps maybe. Make it easier to drive up on them. Good job!

I wanted to add, all I have done so far is make some ramps out of 2x12s. They rock and way safer and way cheaper than race ramps. They work on all my cars with out issue. I should post a pic one day.

What makes you think they are safer than Race Ramps?

 

[rockchucker]

Whatever happened to Jack Stands and a Floor Jack? lol

 

[rmousir]

What makes you think they are safer than Race Ramps?

your right. I can't say they are 'safer'. But just as safe and certainly a lot less expensive.