DIY Circuit Panel Upgrade - 100A to 200A

[ProfessionalAmateur]

I need to run a 220 line to my garage for a new bandsaw and my breaker panel isn't up to the addition. Need to upgrade from 100A to 200A. SCE has approved the existing panel location for the upgrade and confirmed the existing service can handle 200A.

I called around and got some bids, but at $2k+, I think I'll DIY this one. I've looked and it's not all that hard, just fussy and there's some things I don't quite get yet.

The existing panel is narrower than the new one will be. Tentatively I'm thinking of a Square D SC3042M200PS or something similar but not emotionally attached to anything. Any better or more cost effective options? Does my eventual plan to install solar figure in? Some panels are billed as "solar ready," which sounds more marketing than functionally different.

Existing panel:

The current service is underground and runs from my neighbor's yard.

Biggest problem I can see off the bat is that the new panel will be wider than I have room between studs and it's on an exterior, structural wall. The existing panel is semi-flush and I want to stick with that, so I'll need adapters if the panel isn't already a semi-flush design.

Imagine the solution is to cut out one 2x4 in the wall and then build a frame to mount the panel.

It looks like we only have one grounding rod that is connected to the panel. There is a second one at the front of the house, but it's just attached to the copper plumbing from a repipe before we bought the house (1967 construction). Water meter is out under the public sidewalk.

Basically, it seems to go like this:

0) Drive in new grounding rods to get ahead of the game a little bit. I know they need six feet of separation. Is there a rule about how far they have to be from the panel? Need to call 811 and confirm where lines are. Can I drive a new rod next to an old one that will be disconnected and just move the ground wire from the existing one to the new one?
0.5) Label all the wires in the panel--none of them are currently (pun intended)
1) Have SCE disconnect service
2) Pull meter. (Assume they provide a new one, if needed?)
3) Disconnect all the wires from the existing panel
4) Remove panel
5) Cut out stucco to fit new panel
6) Build frame for new panel
7) Install new panel
8) Hook up wires including to new grounding rods
9) Have City inspect work
10) Have SCE reconnect service
11) Install new waterproofing
12) Re-stucco and paint
13) Make sawdust with new bandsaw

What have I missed?

 

[pizza]

welcome to gj

sounds like a good plan.

have a look around the forum, make a few quick posts, and then try posting pics of the existing setup. people like pics

 

[ProfessionalAmateur]

welcome to gj

sounds like a good plan.

have a look around the forum, make a few quick posts, and then try posting pics of the existing setup. people like pics

Thanks.

Says I need five posts. I'm 2/5 of the way there.

 

[sberry]

Actually if you could get it dunright for 2 large in CA it would be a bargain. I would like to hire this guy

 

[ProfessionalAmateur]

Actually if you could get it dunright for 2 large in CA it would be a bargain. I would like to hire this guy

$2k was the lowest quote and probably didn't include stucco repair afterwards.

I think the highest bid was $4k and $3k was mid-range.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

There a reason you were quoted $2K- semi flush and flush mount main service panels are a huge pain in the ***.

$2K is actually not a bad price at all considering the permit and the need for 2 electricians to get it all done before the sun sets.

have you ever done this kind of work before?

It can be a pain to get everything to line up and you are throwing a larger panel in there which makes it even more fun.

Will you be able to get it all done before the sun sets so you have power after dark?

Also, that stranded ground rod needs to be abandoned or bonded to the GES. Connecting metallic plumbing to a ground rod is NOT correct for bonding. The earth is not to be relied upon for establishing a low impedance pathway for clearing fault current and THAT is the purpose of bonding metallic plumbing. Should that plumbing become energized, the breaker will NOT be able to clear that fault and you will have the potential for shock or electrocution hazard.

So a bonding wire needs to be ran from the metallic plumbing over to the neutral/grnd bar in the main service panel....

 

[ProfessionalAmateur]

There a reason you were quoted $2K- semi flush and flush mount main service panels are a huge pain in the ***.

$2K is actually not a bad price at all considering the permit and the need for 2 electricians to get it all done before the sun sets.

have you ever done this kind of work before?

It can be a pain to get everything to line up and you are throwing a larger panel in there which makes it even more fun.

Will you be able to get it all done before the sun sets so you have power after dark?

Also, that stranded ground rod needs to be abandoned or bonded to the GES. Connecting metallic plumbing to a ground rod is NOT correct for bonding. The earth is not to be relied upon for establishing a low impedance pathway for clearing fault current and THAT is the purpose of bonding metallic plumbing. Should that plumbing become energized, the breaker will NOT be able to clear that fault and you will have the potential for shock or electrocution hazard.

So a bonding wire needs to be ran from the metallic plumbing over to the neutral/grnd bar in the main service panel....

Thank you for the thoughts.

I've never done a panel swap before. I've run 220 to the electric oven I installed and replaced switches and outlets. Done plumbing, cabinetry, car work, etc. Not much wiggle room for error here, but it doesn't look unreasonably difficult.

Looking closer, the plumbing is tied to a ground rod where it enters the house, but I still don't see where it's attached to the panel at all:

There's another ground rod where the fiber optic internet connection comes into the house:

The hot water heater has what must be a ground wire running into the attic, but I don't see anything grounding the gas meter/line on the side of the house.

Someone on the other forum said his electric company let him pull the meter out, do the work, pop the meter back in and then the city came and inspected it. Sounds pretty laissez faire for SCE and California, but I may ask. Worst they can do is say no, eh?

What's the pain in the **** factor about going to a larger size panel? I imagine that I need to be sure I don't put myself in the position of needing Romex stretchers.

 

[mike93lx]

Absolute no go on the meter pull. They won't allow it and it is dangerous.

$2k plus stucco repair is a good deal. This isn't anywhere near wiring an outlet for a stove. I do all my own electrical, except main panel swaps. Both have been hired out and I am glad I did it

 

[slow]

How big of a bandsaw and how often do you plan on using it?

 

[nadogail]

IMHO, you are in for an education if you try this all by yourself. The subpanel upgrade at my house in SDG&E's service area required two additional ground rods. My home was built in 1988 and we upgraded our 100 Amp Service to 200.

 

[bczygan]

Absolute no go on the meter pull. They won't allow it and it is dangerous.

$2k plus stucco repair is a good deal. This isn't anywhere near wiring an outlet for a stove. I do all my own electrical, except main panel swaps. Both have been hired out and I am glad I did it

Why is a meter pull dangerous here? Service will be disconnected.

And is a meter pull dangerous if all the power is off in the panel?

Bill

 

[mike93lx]

Why is a meter pull dangerous here? Service will be disconnected.

And is a meter pull dangerous if all the power is off in the panel?

Bill

The meter pull is generally the means of disconnect for the POCO, but you already knew that, just like you know the answer to your second question as well

 

[wyliesdiesels]

Thank you for the thoughts.

I've never done a panel swap before. I've run 220 to the electric oven I installed and replaced switches and outlets. Done plumbing, cabinetry, car work, etc. Not much wiggle room for error here, but it doesn't look unreasonably difficult.

Looking closer, the plumbing is tied to a ground rod where it enters the house, but I still don't see where it's attached to the panel at all:

There's another ground rod where the fiber optic internet connection comes into the house:

The hot water heater has what must be a ground wire running into the attic, but I don't see anything grounding the gas meter/line on the side of the house.

Someone on the other forum said his electric company let him pull the meter out, do the work, pop the meter back in and then the city came and inspected it. Sounds pretty laissez faire for SCE and California, but I may ask. Worst they can do is say no, eh?

What's the pain in the **** factor about going to a larger size panel? I imagine that I need to be sure I don't put myself in the position of needing Romex stretchers.

all those marooned ground rods are not doing anything for the plumbing and they either need to be connected to the GES or abandoned.

The only legitimate one is for the fiber but it still needs to be connected to the GES at the panel.

The gas line needs to be bonded to the ground bar in the panel as well to prevent it from becoming energized

 

[wyliesdiesels]

Absolute no go on the meter pull. They won't allow it and it is dangerous.

$2k plus stucco repair is a good deal. This isn't anywhere near wiring an outlet for a stove. I do all my own electrical, except main panel swaps. Both have been hired out and I am glad I did it

Why is a meter pull dangerous here? Service will be disconnected.

And is a meter pull dangerous if all the power is off in the panel?

Bill

The meter pull is generally the means of disconnect for the POCO, but you already knew that, just like you know the answer to your second question as well

He said he would call to have the service disconnected. So him pulling the meter just means removing it. It has nothing to do with disconnecting the power.

And no the means of disconnect for the PoCo is NOT the meter. The Poco disconnects the service drop or underground lateral from the transformer...

 

[mike93lx]

For both of the panel swaps I have done (admittedly the same Poco for both), all they have done is pull the meter to disconnect service.

When we replaced the riser and pan on my box, the disconnected the aerial at my house for the electrician to do the work. Never had anything been disconnected at the pole

 

[NUTTSGT]

For both of the panel swaps I have done (admittedly the same Poco for both), all they have done is pull the meter to disconnect service.

When we replaced the riser and pan on my box, the disconnected the aerial at my house for the electrician to do the work. Never had anything been disconnected at the pole

You had is disconnected at the aerial (mast head) rather than at the pole. Depending on the situation, local POCO will disconnect at the pole if there is no good means to disconnect at the mast.

They would rather work out of their bucket than off a ladder or roof.

 

[mike93lx]

You had is disconnected at the aerial (mast head) rather than at the pole. Depending on the situation, local POCO will disconnect at the pole if there is no good means to disconnect at the mast.

They would rather work out of their bucket than off a ladder or roof.

That was only when we replaced the pan and riser. For the panels, they popped the meter

 

[bczygan]

Maybe I phrased it wrong.

With no action by to POCO, what is the danger of pulling the meter when there is NO power being drawn because the main breaker is off?

Bill

 

[mike93lx]

Maybe I phrased it wrong.

With no action by to POCO, what is the danger of pulling the meter when there is NO power being drawn because the main breaker is off?

Bill

For an amateur, draw or no draw, either way, it is exposing unbreakered, high current taps. This isn't a simple, low risk task. It is about as serious as home electrical work can get.

We all have our own risk thresholds and skill level.

If the Poco is coming out to disconnect power, they should be cutting the meter tag and pulling the meter anyway. If they aren't cutting the tag can get you in a lot of trouble

 

[Norcal]

If the meter socket is damaged there could be quite a show when pulling the meter and the number one thing to remember is that there is no overcurrent protection on the transformer secondary either.

 

[ProfessionalAmateur]

How big of a bandsaw and how often do you plan on using it?

Haven't decided yet, but do plan a post elsewhere for thoughts. Looking at Laguna's 18" and Grizzly's 19" and 21". Those are in the sub-$2,500 all-in budget range.

I'll use it as frequently as a home woodworker who works full time can, eh?

My thought is that I never want to buy a bandsaw again, so it needs to last 30 years and I've never heard anyone say, "Gee, I wish I'd bought a smaller bandsaw."

IMHO, you are in for an education if you try this all by yourself. The subpanel upgrade at my house in SDG&E's service area required two additional ground rods. My home was built in 1988 and we upgraded our 100 Amp Service to 200.

Good ol' San Diego Gouge and Extortion. Grew up in Solana Beach and still have family down there. Changed a lot since the early '70s.

For both of the panel swaps I have done (admittedly the same Poco for both), all they have done is pull the meter to disconnect service.

When we replaced the riser and pan on my box, the disconnected the aerial at my house for the electrician to do the work. Never had anything been disconnected at the pole

This This Old House episode has it disconnected totally.

I think the answer may be twofold:

1) If you're not replacing the meter panel itself, you could just pull the meter and the breaker panel is de-energized.
2) If you are replacing the meter panel then you definitely want no power coming to the house.

Maybe I phrased it wrong.

With no action by to POCO, what is the danger of pulling the meter when there is NO power being drawn because the main breaker is off?

Bill

The problem for me is that it looks like my meter panel and circuit panel are one piece, so I have to replace both.

--snip--
Also, that stranded ground rod needs to be abandoned or bonded to the GES. Connecting metallic plumbing to a ground rod is NOT correct for bonding. The earth is not to be relied upon for establishing a low impedance pathway for clearing fault current and THAT is the purpose of bonding metallic plumbing. Should that plumbing become energized, the breaker will NOT be able to clear that fault and you will have the potential for shock or electrocution hazard.

So a bonding wire needs to be ran from the metallic plumbing over to the neutral/grnd bar in the main service panel....

Am I right in guessing that back in 1967 the rules were hellalot different and we're bringing the house up to some semblance of current code now, thus the need to bond the gas and water lines to the GES? It sounds like I'll need to have a grounding rod by the gas meter--opposite side of the house from the panel. The gas line runs through the attic to the water heater.

 

[NUTTSGT]

Maybe I phrased it wrong.

With no action by to POCO, what is the danger of pulling the meter when there is NO power being drawn because the main breaker is off?

Bill

Even if there is no draw from inside the house, the lines coming in are still hot. Go to YouTube Bill and watch some Arc Flash videos.

Even during a structure fire, we don't pull the meters, unless its an absolute last resort. . . That's what the POCO guys get paid for and they have my respect for what they do.

 

[NUTTSGT]

That was only when we replaced the pan and riser. For the panels, they popped the meter

Yes, we're in agreement with that Mike. Normal practice around here.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

For both of the panel swaps I have done (admittedly the same Poco for both), all they have done is pull the meter to disconnect service.

When we replaced the riser and pan on my box, the disconnected the aerial at my house for the electrician to do the work. Never had anything been disconnected at the pole

Pulling the meter is not gonna work here to disconnect the power to everything.

Did you see what kind of panel he has? Its a meter main and he wants to replace the whole thing.

Pull the meter will not kill power to the underground service lateral that needs to be disconnected.

The only way the PoCo can kill the power in the OPs panel so he can replace it is by disconnecting it at the pad mount or underground transformer or pole connection.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

This This Old House episode has it disconnected totally.

I think the answer may be twofold:

1) If you're not replacing the meter panel itself, you could just pull the meter and the breaker panel is de-energized.
2) If you are replacing the meter panel then you definitely want no power coming to the house.

The problem for me is that it looks like my meter panel and circuit panel are one piece, so I have to replace both.

yes you have a combination meter main. there is no both. It is one piece.

And yes you need to have the poco disconnect the underground service lateral at the box in the neighbors yard. Pulling the meter will not kill the power to the line side lugs on the meter socket.

Am I right in guessing that back in 1967 the rules were hellalot different and we're bringing the house up to some semblance of current code now, thus the need to bond the gas and water lines to the GES?

Yes im sure the codes were pretty lax back then. I wasnt around so Id have to find an old NEC book....

It sounds like I'll need to have a grounding rod by the gas meter--opposite side of the house from the panel. The gas line runs through the attic to the water heater.

NO! that will not accomplish a bond to the GES. Please read my previous replies about bonding.

A ground rod is for shunting lightning to earth limiting voltage potential to earth and shunting high voltage when primary lines contact secondary lines

Connecting a ground rod to your gas line will NOT establish a low impedance fault current pathway.

You are bonding the gas line to prevent it from becoming energized with fault current. Again, a ground rod will NOT do this. Instead, you need to run a ground wire from a pipe clamp on the gas line to the neutral/ground bar on your combination meter main.

You need to do this for the water line as well.

The ground rod for the fiber and any other ground rods need to also be connected to the neutral/ground bar in the combination main service panel. You DO NOT want a marooned ground rod....

The ground rod for the water line can be abandoned after you connect the water line to the panel.

 

[jbwilkins]

Could he just go with a sub panel and bypass replacing the existing? Not an electrician, so I’m just asking.

 

[bigdav160]

The transformer might be ready for 200 amp service but are you sure the incoming wires are large enough?
They never spend the money to oversize here. Especially on an older house were the original service might have been 60 amps.
My eyes aren't good enough to tell from the pic

edit to add, I am with you JB, a couple wood working machines doesn't usually warrant a need for another 100 amps of service.

 

[mike93lx]

The transformer might be ready for 200 amp service but are you sure the incoming wires are large enough?
They never spend the money to oversize here. Especially on an older house were the original service might have been 60 amps.
My eyes aren't good enough to tell from the pic

edit to add, I am with you JB, a couple wood working machines doesn't usually warrant a need for another 100 amps of service.

The Poco decides what wire size is used up to the weatherhead, not you. They don't have to follow the same rules we do.

My Poco confirmed they would chage exactly nothing on their end if I "upgraded" to 200a when I had my main panel swapped. I ended up sticking with 100a,because it is plenty for me

 

[ProfessionalAmateur]

yes you have a combination meter main. there is no both. It is one piece.

And yes you need to have the poco disconnect the underground service lateral at the box in the neighbors yard. Pulling the meter will not kill the power to the line side lugs on the meter socket.

Yes im sure the codes were pretty lax back then. I wasnt around so Id have to find an old NEC book....

NO! that will not accomplish a bond to the GES. Please read my previous replies about bonding.

A ground rod is for shunting lightning to earth limiting voltage potential to earth and shunting high voltage when primary lines contact secondary lines

Heh. We almost never have lightning storms here. Not even once a year. But a few years ago, a bolt hit a palm tree 4 doors down. Boy did that get my attention. The cats all levitated and disappeared. Fire department had to come and hose the top of the tree off because it caught fire. LOL

Connecting a ground rod to your gas line will NOT establish a low impedance fault current pathway.

You are bonding the gas line to prevent it from becoming energized with fault current. Again, a ground rod will NOT do this. Instead, you need to run a ground wire from a pipe clamp on the gas line to the neutral/ground bar on your combination meter main.

You need to do this for the water line as well.

The ground rod for the fiber and any other ground rods need to also be connected to the neutral/ground bar in the combination main service panel. You DO NOT want a marooned ground rod....

The ground rod for the water line can be abandoned after you connect the water line to the panel.

Ahhhh, OK.

Any reason I can't use ground straps attached to the gas and water lines in the attic rather than run them all the way from the other side of the house?

And if I'm reading you right, I ground the water/gas to the neutral/ground in the panel, ground the fiber ground rod to the panel, and drive two new ground rods for the panel to ground to.

I got that right?

Someone suggested that I've actually got room in this 100A panel to go ahead and just install a 30A/220V breaker for my bandsaw. Opinion?

Again, thanks a ton for all the knowledge you're sharing. Truly is appreciated.

 

[mike93lx]

Heh. We almost never have lightning storms here. Not even once a year. But a few years ago, a bolt hit a palm tree 4 doors down. Boy did that get my attention. The cats all levitated and disappeared. Fire department had to come and hose the top of the tree off because it caught fire. LOL



Ahhhh, OK.

Any reason I can't use ground straps attached to the gas and water lines in the attic rather than run them all the way from the other side of the house?

And if I'm reading you right, I ground the water/gas to the neutral/ground in the panel, ground the fiber ground rod to the panel, and drive two new ground rods for the panel to ground to.

I got that right?

Someone suggested that I've actually got room in this 100A panel to go ahead and just install a 30A/220V breaker for my bandsaw. Opinion?

Again, thanks a ton for all the knowledge you're sharing. Truly is appreciated.

There are pretty obvious open slots in the panel. What makes you think you can't add a double pole breaker for your bandsaw.

And a 30a 240v bandsaw? That must be a monster

 

[ProfessionalAmateur]

There are pretty obvious open slots in the panel. What makes you think you can't add a double pole breaker for your bandsaw.

And a 30a 240v bandsaw? That must be a monster

Just worried about overtaxing that 100A panel with the oven drawing 220 already. There was a 220 plug in the garage, but I turned it into a subpanel for the lights and outlets in the garage and lights in the house.

Monster? Mebbe.

 

[bigdav160]

The Poco decides what wire size is used up to the weatherhead, not you. They don't have to follow the same rules we do.

My Poco confirmed they would chage exactly nothing on their end if I "upgraded" to 200a when I had my main panel swapped. I ended up sticking with 100a,because it is plenty for me

Not any home I've owned in Texas. I have to purchase the wire all the way to the transformer. The POCO hooks it up.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

Could he just go with a sub panel and bypass replacing the existing? Not an electrician, so I’m just asking.

That will NOT increase the ampacity of his service which is 100a. If he wants more ampacity, then he will need to upgrade the main service panel.

The Poco decides what wire size is used up to the weatherhead, not you. They don't have to follow the same rules we do.

My Poco confirmed they would change exactly nothing on their end if I "upgraded" to 200a when I had my main panel swapped. I ended up sticking with 100a,because it is plenty for me

He has an underground feed which are typically sized differently than overhead drops.

Heh. We almost never have lightning storms here. Not even once a year. But a few years ago, a bolt hit a palm tree 4 doors down. Boy did that get my attention. The cats all levitated and disappeared. Fire department had to come and hose the top of the tree off because it caught fire. LOL

But if and when you do, and if you dont have the right pathway for the lightning, it could fry a lot of stuff and cost you a pretty penny.

Also, if a high voltage primary line hits a secondary, that can fry your stuff too.

Ahhhh, OK.

Any reason I can't use ground straps attached to the gas and water lines in the attic rather than run them all the way from the other side of the house?

And if I'm reading you right, I ground the water/gas to the neutral/ground in the panel, ground the fiber ground rod to the panel, and drive two new ground rods for the panel to ground to.

I got that right?

The water line is suppose to be bonded within the first 5' of it entering the house. Im not too familiar with gas pipe code but its typically bonded within the same 5' as the water line.

As to your second question in green, yes that is correct. Do you not have an existing ground rod on the panel?

You can either leave the ground rods on the gas and water line or abandoned them. They arent harming anything but they are a waste of money since they dont bond the plumbing to the panel for clearing fault current.

Someone suggested that I've actually got room in this 100A panel to go ahead and just install a 30A/220V breaker for my bandsaw. Opinion?

Again, thanks a ton for all the knowledge you're sharing. Truly is appreciated.

yes you have 5 breaker spaces and you only need 2.

Just worried about overtaxing that 100A panel with the oven drawing 220 already. There was a 220 plug in the garage, but I turned it into a subpanel for the lights and outlets in the garage and lights in the house.

Monster? Mebbe.

only way to know if youre beyond your service capacity is by doing a load calc. But with what you have, I doubt that will be the case.

Mike Holt has a good load calc sheet.

Not any home I've owned in Texas. I have to purchase the wire all the way to the transformer. The POCO hooks it up.

Every PoCo is different and who owns the service wire on the line side of the meter varies wildly.

Out here the PoCo owns the overhead drop wire to the weatherhead or the underground lateral wire all the way to the meter pan.

So no point in comparing.

 

[ProfessionalAmateur]

That will NOT increase the ampacity of his service which is 100a. If he wants more ampacity, then he will need to upgrade the main service panel.



He has an underground feed which are typically sized differently than overhead drops.



But if and when you do, and if you dont have the right pathway for the lightning, it could fry a lot of stuff and cost you a pretty penny.

Also, if a high voltage primary line hits a secondary, that can fry your stuff too.



The water line is suppose to be bonded within the first 5' of it entering the house. Im not too familiar with gas pipe code but its typically bonded within the same 5' as the water line.

As to your second question in green, yes that is correct. Do you not have an existing ground rod on the panel?

You can either leave the ground rods on the gas and water line or abandoned them. They arent harming anything but they are a waste of money since they dont bond the plumbing to the panel for clearing fault current.



yes you have 5 breaker spaces and you only need 2.



only way to know if youre beyond your service capacity is by doing a load calc. But with what you have, I doubt that will be the case.

Mike Holt has a good load calc sheet.



Every PoCo is different and who owns the service wire on the line side of the meter varies wildly.

Out here the PoCo owns the overhead drop wire to the weatherhead or the underground lateral wire all the way to the meter pan.

So no point in comparing.

Again, thank you a ton. Owe you.

Found some 10/3 in the garage that should be long enough to reach from the panel to the garage with length to spare. Just need to find a breaker and I'll give it a shot.

I'm not sure if the existing panel has a rod or not. I'd think it must, but it's a 53 year old house and the only rods I have seen are at the repiped water service and the fiberoptic line. There may be others, but I've never noticed them in 10+ years living here.

I'll update when I have it run and maybe it'll help someone.

Thanks!!!!

 

[mike93lx]

A 5hp motor requires 8/2 nm-b or #10 in conduit, IIRC. 10/3 isn't enough, plus you don't need a 4 conductor cable. Motor wiring is sized based on HP, not listed current draw

 

[ProfessionalAmateur]

A 5hp motor requires 8/2 nm-b or #10 in conduit, IIRC. 10/3 isn't enough, plus you don't need a 4 conductor cable. Motor wiring is sized based on HP, not listed current draw

That's what I get for looking at the spec sheet on their web page. They show both types of power cords--2 and 3 conductor, depending on length. Assume that's an error because the plug is a two-pole, three-wire.

Just for clarity, are you saying I can run 8/2 without conduit or #10 in conduit?

 

[wyliesdiesels]

Yes a 5HP motor requires #10 in conduit or 8/2 NM-b. NM-b doesnt need to be ran in conduit.

But you mentioned power cords. Power cords aka cordage is not meant to be used in place of building wire.

And this compressor should be hardwired unless you can find a plug and receptacle rated for 5HP.

 

[theoldwizard1]

What is "neutral CSED" ?

 

[mike93lx]

Yes a 5HP motor requires #10 in conduit or 8/2 NM-b. NM-b doesnt need to be ran in conduit.

But you mentioned power cords. Power cords aka cordage is not meant to be used in place of building wire.

And this compressor should be hardwired unless you can find a plug and receptacle rated for 5HP.

The bandsaw comes with a L6-30P on it. Makes me think it isn't really 5hp,or grizzly just doesn't care about code.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

What is "neutral CSED" ?

Huh?

The bandsaw comes with a L6-30P on it. Makes me think it isn't really 5hp,or grizzly just doesn't care about code.

What does the nameplate say for HP and FLA?

Also, if they get the unit tested and listed with the plug on it, the plug may be rated for the HP but the receptacle surely isn't.

My guess is their HP ratings are grossly inflated