DIY Concrete Sealer

[zc15]

I am helping my dad with his barn build and he had the concrete poured about 10 days ago, so still a solid 18+ days until we can tackle the floor.

The finishers did a real nice job, and we want to seal the floor before moving anything in.

What products do you guys suggest that we can do ourselves? Budget is a concern, hence the DIY. Is a densifier needed? I'm not quite sure what they do.

Also, should we fill the control joints, or just leave them?

 

[zc15]

Some of the options I've seen are TS210, Ballistix, Legacy Formula 137, and Ghostshield 4500+8510.

 

[FJ4FUN]

AcryliSeal 3501 !!

 

[NWOhioChevyGuy]

I did Ghost Shield on my garage build, Densifier then Sealer.
I'm happy with its performance thus far.

 

[zc15]

I did Ghost Shield on my garage build, Densifier then Sealer.
I'm happy with its performance thus far.

Do you have any pictures?

 

[NWOhioChevyGuy]

Do you have any pictures?

See my build thread, in my signature.

 

[Garage Flooring]

I would use 4500 and 8510 from Ghostshield if you are JUST looking to denify and seal

 

[dcg9381]

I've been using polyurea exclusively in shops and in residential. I'm a fan.... Very budget friendly compared to epoxy options. It's held up great for me.

 

[CombatNinja]

I also vote for Ghostshield 4500 & 8510. Easy to work with and reasonably economical. You will massively appreciate that you had the discipline to wait until you got the floor sorted before moving anything in. As to the control joints, I would fill them after the floor sealer with Sikaflex or similar. That stuff will last 8-10 years in an interior environment and makes clean up so much easier. The control joints just become filled with grit, dirt and dust if left exposed. I'm a huge believer in properly sealed concrete, nothing on the floor that isn't on wheels and filled control joints. It makes routine cleaning a breeze. I can get my garage floor cleaner than most people's kitchen floor in about 5 minutes with a leaf blower and dust mop.

 

[benwah]

As to the control joints, I would fill them after the floor sealer with Sikaflex or similar. That stuff will last 8-10 years in an interior environment and makes clean up so much easier. The control joints just become filled with grit, dirt and dust if left exposed. I'm a huge believer in properly sealed concrete, nothing on the floor that isn't on wheels and filled control joints. It makes routine cleaning a breeze. I can get my garage floor cleaner than most people's kitchen floor in about 5 minutes with a leaf blower and dust mop.

100%

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Formula 137 , densifier and fluorinated sealer, all in one!

Formula 137™ Penetrating Sealer - Legacy Industrial

Tech Data SDS Available Applicators Video

www.legacyindustrial.co

 

[Shea]

I am helping my dad with his barn build and he had the concrete poured about 10 days ago, so still a solid 18+ days until we can tackle the floor.

The finishers did a real nice job, and we want to seal the floor before moving anything in.

What products do you guys suggest that we can do ourselves? Budget is a concern, hence the DIY. Is a densifier needed? I'm not quite sure what they do.

Also, should we fill the control joints, or just leave them?

Another great option is PS100 by Concrete Sealers USA. It's a fluorinated, water, oil, and salt-repellent concrete sealer that works extremely well. A densifier is not needed before application and as a result, is great on the budget. You can opt to apply their PS103 densifier beforehand if you want to densify the concrete. Wait 5-7 days before applying the PS100 if you do. PS100 was never intended to have a densifier applied to achieve maximum benefits, however, reports in the field have indicated that it performs even better than expected if you do.

Why PS100 is a Superior Oil Resistant Garage Floor Sealer | All Garage Floors

We review PS100 Fluorinated Oil Repelling Sealer. It may be the best garage floor concrete sealer for resisting oil stains for the garage and driveway.

allgaragefloors.com

 

[zc15]

Thanks guys!

 

[Treeman]

Thanks guys!

Any follow up on your decision? I am investigating the choices discussed above. Waffling between the densifier/sealer(Ghost Shield,PS100,Legacy 137) vs. penetrating thin topcoat (BallistiX, TS 210). Any comment or input is appreciated.

 

[rd65]

My shop was built in 2017, was I supposed to seal the concrete? 32 x 28 x 4" slab with 2 saw cuts down the center and a vapor barrier. Builder never said anything about needing to seal the concrete. Can/should I still do this? What about the oil from working on cars, etc?

 

[zc15]

Any follow up on your decision? I am investigating the choices discussed above. Waffling between the densifier/sealer(Ghost Shield,PS100,Legacy 137) vs. penetrating thin topcoat (BallistiX, TS 210). Any comment or input is appreciated.

We decided on PS100 due to budget constraints and DIY ability. Still need to put it down. Mopped over the weekend, letting it dry out now

 

[zc15]

My shop was built in 2017, was I supposed to seal the concrete? 32 x 28 x 4" slab with 2 saw cuts down the center and a vapor barrier. Builder never said anything about needing to seal the concrete. Can/should I still do this? What about the oil from working on cars, etc?

I mean if you've gone 6 years without needing it then I would imagine youre fine without it. We're just hoping it helps prevent staining before we can pick up spills