Phog Allen
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Gents, after using chromed Knipex pliers and a couple of fully polished ones I would lime to try this on some others I own. Anyone tried this? What did you use?
DIY Full Mirror Polish For Pliers?
- Thread starter Phog Allen
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byoungblood
Well-known member
When I've polished aluminum before, just take progressively finer sandpaper to knock down the rough spots to get your smooth finish. Once you're up to 1000 grit or so, a coarse and fine polishing compound and buffing wheel will finish the job.
I'm not sure I'd do it on steel, simply because it will rust unless you clear coat it.
I'm not sure I'd do it on steel, simply because it will rust unless you clear coat it.
OP
Phog Allen
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I wondered about that method but didn't know if tool steel was too hard. I have done this with straight razor restoration and followed up with a rotary tool and polish. It turned out well.
Cheers, Todd
Cheers, Todd
sberry
Banned
This is a new one on me.
Deskmechanic
Well-known member
Takes the term "tool polisher" to a whole new level.
Have a look at post 15571 Here:
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=3106648#post3106648
After wiping them down with an oily rag there is no sign of rust on them and it's been over a year now. The temp in my home shop ranges from freezing to about 75'F though out the year. If they sat in a damper environment with no activity it may be different but so far so good.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=3106648#post3106648
After wiping them down with an oily rag there is no sign of rust on them and it's been over a year now. The temp in my home shop ranges from freezing to about 75'F though out the year. If they sat in a damper environment with no activity it may be different but so far so good.
OP
Phog Allen
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Thank you for the link. If you don't mind, what product did you use on the wrenches? When I polished the razors I used a progression of finer sandpapers started at 220, 400, 600, 800, 1200 and up to about 1600 grit. Then used a felt wheel on a rotary tool with a few different grades of compound. The trickiest part is getting all the sanding marks out from each previous grit size. It will show up if you don't. Now mind, the razor is a different animal. It is smaller and concave so it will show up in a hurry. The only way to do this in my opinion is to wind up with finish that looks like a mirror or at least as close as you can get. A tool is different to me than a razor. The first time you use it you are going to scratch or dull it so no need to obsess over minute scratches. Carbon steel razors are typically 56-62 on the Rockwell scale. I would suppose tools are a bit harder? I am unsure. Anyroad I don't know if I would have the patience to do a wrench set. I am looking at some pliers jaws. Specifically a Klein diagonal that manage some surface rust and staining. Thanks again. BTW, the polished metal of the razor resists corrosion splendidly. It's been well over a year and not a stain.
It's been over a year but IIRC I wire wheeled the old peeling chrome off with a 6" bench grinder with spiral wire wheel then took any heavy burs off with a 1X42" belt grinder with probably a 400 grit belt but I have a nice old belt to finish with that is more like 1200 grit it's so wore down. Then went straight from there to a coarse stitched sisal 8" wheel with the black compound (usually for aluminum I think) Then a soft cotton 8" buff wheel to finish and wipe with an oily rag. Nothing too crazy.
I've had to grind some of these wrenches down to fit certain tight spots on my motorcycle and I've always polished the ground ends to a fine finish to relieve any stress risers as they obviously are weakened by the reduced size. This is how I do those too after the initial grinding. I've misplaced my ground down Hazet wrench but here is a ground down socket.
The snap-on on the left is about the same original thickness of the ground down Hazet so you can see it's had about 1/2 the meat taken off the top edge but tapers back to the original thickness around the middle. It will still take 25 ft lb of torque and has likely has taken more than that as this socket I've had for 45 years.
And Well I'll be Dammed! This wrench is my ground down wrench from back in 70's too. This wrench and the socket are the only Hazet tools that weren't stolen from me when my house was ransacked back in the 80's and I lost all my tools and equipment. These 2 tools were with my motorcycle and survived but alas, I haven't seen this wrench since I took this photo about 4 years ago. I didn't realize I had a photo of it on photo bucket.
This is why I went to such great lengths and expense to get this complete set of open/Box wrenches from New Zealand a year ago that I posted photos of in the link above. Amazingly this wrench and socket have spent years in a motorcycle tool kit on my bike while it sat in a barn for several years in 40 below winters and then about 20 years in a garage in a warmer climate where temps went from zero or so to probably 80 degrees or more in summer months and look, no rust where I ground the chrome off. Must have had just the right amount of old oil on them
I've had to grind some of these wrenches down to fit certain tight spots on my motorcycle and I've always polished the ground ends to a fine finish to relieve any stress risers as they obviously are weakened by the reduced size. This is how I do those too after the initial grinding. I've misplaced my ground down Hazet wrench but here is a ground down socket.
The snap-on on the left is about the same original thickness of the ground down Hazet so you can see it's had about 1/2 the meat taken off the top edge but tapers back to the original thickness around the middle. It will still take 25 ft lb of torque and has likely has taken more than that as this socket I've had for 45 years.
And Well I'll be Dammed! This wrench is my ground down wrench from back in 70's too. This wrench and the socket are the only Hazet tools that weren't stolen from me when my house was ransacked back in the 80's and I lost all my tools and equipment. These 2 tools were with my motorcycle and survived but alas, I haven't seen this wrench since I took this photo about 4 years ago. I didn't realize I had a photo of it on photo bucket.
This is why I went to such great lengths and expense to get this complete set of open/Box wrenches from New Zealand a year ago that I posted photos of in the link above. Amazingly this wrench and socket have spent years in a motorcycle tool kit on my bike while it sat in a barn for several years in 40 below winters and then about 20 years in a garage in a warmer climate where temps went from zero or so to probably 80 degrees or more in summer months and look, no rust where I ground the chrome off. Must have had just the right amount of old oil on them
Tucko
Well-known member
Polishing a pair of pliers?? Boy, some of you guys have a LOT of time on your hands.....
Dave455
Well-known member
I've done this on many of mine! I'll try and post a pic later!
Just use a few different grades of emery paper, or aluminium oxide, or whatever your poison is. Finish up with 2500 grit and you will have a superb polish!
Well worth the effort as the polished pliers are much easier to wipe clean, and provided the steel is good they seem much less prone to rust!
Only one word of caution, don't waste your time trying to polish pliers made of cheap steel. They don't take a good polish no matter how hard you try, and rust as soon as you have done it anyway!
Just use a few different grades of emery paper, or aluminium oxide, or whatever your poison is. Finish up with 2500 grit and you will have a superb polish!
Well worth the effort as the polished pliers are much easier to wipe clean, and provided the steel is good they seem much less prone to rust!
Only one word of caution, don't waste your time trying to polish pliers made of cheap steel. They don't take a good polish no matter how hard you try, and rust as soon as you have done it anyway!