DIY hardwood workbench top for toolbox

[67King]

Hope this isn't the wrong forum, seems I have seen some related threads, though. Thought some of you who don't want to drop several hundred bucks to top off a toolbox might appreciate it.

At any rate, I bought a bundle of "industrial grade" I think it was 3/4" hardwood oak from Lumber Liquidators for $0.99 per square foot. The scrap rate indicated was about 30%, and they factored that into how much they gave me at checkout. So basically I was into the wood for under $20.

I used wood glue and clamps to piece it together. Then I used grey stain (after sanding, of course), and topped it with epoxy I have from some carbon fiber work I do. I used that as I thought it would be harder than clear poly. But I will say that that didn't work out as well as I'd hoped, as the epoxy was too viscous to seem into the grain and small cracks. Still turned out pretty well, IMHO. I did sand the epoxy when all done to take off the shine and try to even out the surface.

 

[gdocktor3]

Not bad at all considering how cheap the entire project was. Well done.

 

[Mr_B]

Worked out real nice for that investment. I tend use ply sheet doubled up mainly as cheap and easy plus no hassle renew when gets too scruffy.

 

[jimreed2160]

Great idea and an outstanding upgrade for the toolbox bench.

 

[bluebolt]

Looks nice 67King!

 

[ptgarcia]

That looks great. Well done!

 

[gerryw]

Nice

 

[ncboat]

Glad to see someone who has done this. I bought 6 boxes of 3/4 oak flooring from the Lowes clearance area for $10 a box with this in mind. I was thinking of gluing to 3/4 plywood so I could cut the slots for bolts where they meet in the corner,. Let us see the finished bench.

 

[Local]

Looks great and that oak is pretty hard stuff.

 

[6PTsocket]

Hope this isn't the wrong forum, seems I have seen some related threads, though. Thought some of you who don't want to drop several hundred bucks to top off a toolbox might appreciate it.

At any rate, I bought a bundle of "industrial grade" I think it was 3/4" hardwood oak from Lumber Liquidators for $0.99 per square foot. The scrap rate indicated was about 30%, and they factored that into how much they gave me at checkout. So basically I was into the wood for under $20.

I used wood glue and clamps to piece it together. Then I used grey stain (after sanding, of course), and topped it with epoxy I have from some carbon fiber work I do. I used that as I thought it would be harder than clear poly. But I will say that that didn't work out as well as I'd hoped, as the epoxy was too viscous to seem into the grain and small cracks. Still turned out pretty well, IMHO. I did sand the epoxy when all done to take off the shine and try to even out the surface.

Maybe it doesn't apply here but they sell epoxy specifically made for pouring on table and bar tops. I have seen it on restaurant tables. It is probably thicker than you were looking for and not economical compared to using what you had.

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[67King]

Maybe it doesn't apply here but they sell epoxy specifically made for pouring on table and bar tops. I have seen it on restaurant tables. It is probably thicker than you were looking for and not economical compared to using what you had.

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Wasn't looking to build up the surface, just put a hard coating. I went with a 2 part system, rather than a solvent one, as a crosslinked polymer should have superior physical properties. What I used was West 105 with 206 hardener.

 

[Voi]

I think it looks good. I think it's the 207 hardener that's more appropriate for a top coat but if you already had the 206 laying around it makes sense to use it.

I've picked up hardwood flooring (not engineered or laminate) at my local Habitat Restore for 19 cents per square foot. I might have to do something like this.

 

[6PTsocket]

Wasn't looking to build up the surface, just put a hard coating. I went with a 2 part system, rather than a solvent one, as a crosslinked polymer should have superior physical properties. What I used was West 105 with 206 hardener.

West products are always a good choice. I have an old Craftsman/Waterloo workbench that came with an mdf top. A local marine supply had their house brand clear epoxy that I just kept laying on until it would not soak up any more. Years later it still is in great shape. Not the same as hardwood, of course.

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[Hammer1963]

I like it! I have used maple flooring for bench tops. The cost is hard to beat.