DIY/Hobbyist Digital Caliper Recommendations

[RoninB4]

+1 on a dial caliper. I've used them in dirty machine shops for over 30 years and have one at home as well. Dial types can often be taken apart, I've done it several times to clear the rack. Often a needle and magnification is all that's need, no dis-assembly required. The digital battery can die any time, usually an inconvenient one, and are more difficult to repair than a mechanical dial type. I have several vernier types as well but the 48" with the large vernier scale is all I can see these days. With ANY precision instrument some care has to be taken with it to keep it clean before and after use. If the OP already has a cheap HF then that's the one to use for dirty jobs. Digital, dial, or vernier is personal preference. I don't care for digital anything but that JMO.

 

[dr_clyde]

I have a half dozen dial calipers, and I do really like them. I use them frequently, and I don't mean to give the impression I don't like them or don't use them.

But they can and will skip a tooth at an inopportune time and give you a false measurement. You have to be very careful with them.

A good digital doesn't have this issue. And the batteries on a Mitutoyo last for years.

 

[Citation]

Just a comment about battery life. Mitutoyos have great battery life because they are very power efficient when off. It also helps that from the factory they come with RS55 (silver oxide) batteries instead of LR55 (alkaline) batteries. LR55 are far more common and much cheaper if you are talking about bulk, china replacements. If you put an LR55 in a set of Mitutoyos you might find the battery life is 1/4 what the OEM battery provided.

While many of the generic calipers use LR55 (like the basic HF ones). Some have switched to CR1632 (or similar) cells. These are lithium 3V cells and they have a lot more capacity vs the LR55 or SR55 1.5V batteries. So even if the calipers use more power when off, the battery can still last a few years. This is why I prefer calipers that use CR1632 cells. Examples include the iGaging calipers as well as many TESA/Brown and Sharp calipers.

 

[RoninB4]

"But they can and will skip a tooth at an inopportune time and give you a false measurement. You have to be very careful with them."

-With all due respect to your preferences I somewhat disagree with your contention. Just about any tool/instrument can and will fail to operate properly with neglect and/or mishandling. I seldom treated any of mine with any greater care than due for a gear mechanism sliding on a beam. I'd check it for zero, roll it back to observe any crud present and use it. I'd also observe if there was any dirt, chips, or crud present when done using it as should be part of regular use. I've only taken 2-3 apart in over 30 years of machine shop conditions. I do the same for all DTI's, mics, precision tooling, and even drills/taps before putting them away. Precision tooling/instruments should be treated with some care for the sake of accuracy and operation. Do you wipe your wrenches before putting them away? Do you knock all the BB's off the welding table after a job? Perhaps a digital instrument is best for those that choose not to observe how precision instruments should be handled. Plenty of good machinists overwhelmingly select the Mit digital for durability as well. To say that a dial WILL skip a tooth or that you have to be VERY careful with them is a bit far fetched for those of us that have used them on the job every day for decades. They're trouble free in direct proportion to how you use/handle them. Perhaps one of those inexpensive plastic verniers would render all the accuracy and durability some need. I use one for less than .** accuracy working on autos/bikes or checking fastener sizes. Just a suggestion.

 

[brandonsmash]

I have a couple sets of iGaging digital calipers. I've measured them versus my gage blocks and they're spot-on, and the action is surprisingly smooth. Quite honestly, they're pretty great for the money (about $30).

Yes, I also have some very spendy dial calipers. However, since my shop is often permeated with a fine layer of metal dust, I tend to reach for the iGagings more often than not. It's also extremely convenient with a digital caliper to be able to switch from fractions/decimal/metric without doing conversions.

 

[GirchyGirchy]

I use Mitutoyo at work and Mahr at home, only because I found a set brand new for $75. I like both, but would choose the Mitutoyos over them every time. Buy from McMaster or some other legitimate supplier.

 

[American Locomotive]

-With all due respect to your preferences I somewhat disagree with your contention. Just about any tool/instrument can and will fail to operate properly with neglect and/or mishandling.

That is true, but the issue with dial calipers, is that they often don't let you know they skipped a tooth until you rack it back after your measurement, and it's not back on 0. Then you zero it, check the measurement again, rack it back, and it's still not on 0. It's hard to trust the device for general shop use if its gear rack being pretty much 100% dirt-free is a requirement for it to function properly.

Like I said, calipers are extremely useful for general shop use. Not just "clean, precision" work. Checking bolt diameters, measure hole depths on equipment, checking how thick some sheet metal is on your old tractor so you can run to the store and get some. Many uses in environments that may not be clean.

Something like a Mitutoyo Digimatic uses absolute encoder technology, so it's basically impossible for it to skip steps or "get lost".

 

[NORTON'S SHOP]

Almost all of my machinist tools are Starrett, but I love my Mitutoyo calipers. Bought a Starrett dial caliper when I was in vocational school forty years ago. Bought my first Mitutoyo caliper in the mid eighties and my Starrett caliper hasn't been out of the box since. Like someone said earlier; buy once, cry once. Beware of Mitutoyo counterfeits though. If you find a new one cheap, it's probably counterfeit.

 

[dr_clyde]

"But they can and will skip a tooth at an inopportune time and give you a false measurement. You have to be very careful with them."

-With all due respect to your preferences I somewhat disagree with your contention. Just about any tool/instrument can and will fail to operate properly with neglect and/or mishandling. I seldom treated any of mine with any greater care than due for a gear mechanism sliding on a beam. I'd check it for zero, roll it back to observe any crud present and use it. I'd also observe if there was any dirt, chips, or crud present when done using it as should be part of regular use. I've only taken 2-3 apart in over 30 years of machine shop conditions. I do the same for all DTI's, mics, precision tooling, and even drills/taps before putting them away. Precision tooling/instruments should be treated with some care for the sake of accuracy and operation. Do you wipe your wrenches before putting them away? Do you knock all the BB's off the welding table after a job? Perhaps a digital instrument is best for those that choose not to observe how precision instruments should be handled. Plenty of good machinists overwhelmingly select the Mit digital for durability as well. To say that a dial WILL skip a tooth or that you have to be VERY careful with them is a bit far fetched for those of us that have used them on the job every day for decades. They're trouble free in direct proportion to how you use/handle them. Perhaps one of those inexpensive plastic verniers would render all the accuracy and durability some need. I use one for less than .** accuracy working on autos/bikes or checking fastener sizes. Just a suggestion.

To answer your questions, yes, I do wipe down my wrenches and knock the weld bbs off my tables. We do precision work in my shop. I take good care of my measuring tools. I use dials for my daily driver calipers. Even with the utmost care, when you're making chips and working hard, one eventually will get in the rack when you least expect it.

And like has been said, you don't always see the little chip or fleck of crud that throws the needle until it's too late.

I think you're incredibly lucky to not have had any dial calipers skip the rack in your career.

I'm a bit insulted that you think I don't know how to handle precision measuring tools. I'm not throwing my calipers in the dirt or dropping them in the chip hopper. I use them as intended, clean them when appropriate, and am always vigilant about keeping crud and swarf out of the rack. But at the same time, I don't consider calipers to be a "high precision tool". They are a very fast, reasonably accurate tool for quickly measuring diameters and bores. But if it really matters, a caliper isn't the tool. Micrometers and bore gages exist for a reason. Calipers are cheap, quick, and accurate enough for most work.

All this to say is you need to be aware of what CAN and probably WILL happen to a dial caliper in a shop. Just a warning to be aware and to pay attention.

 

[IndyGarage]

Honestly I have a couple expensive pairs of digital calipers by Browne and Sharp and one pair of Fowler dial calipers.

But the ones I always use are the $35 digitals from Harbor Freight. When I first got them, I measured them on blocks for consistency, and the HF ones worked identically. I'm not afraid to use them on anything, and in 15 years they've never failed. Last time I pulled the B&S out, the battery was dead. I didn't bother to fix them, just picked up the HF ones. .

 

[RoninB4]

Well it seems that my replies have fired up a couple of members here. First of all, I have no desire to slight anybody's personal preference in just about anything. How you accomplish tasks is entirely up to you. I even finished my first post on the matter stating that this is just my opinion.

Secondly, I have no idea what skill level anybody has in a blind format like an internet forum so I include enough information to make a complete answer. If you've taken offense to something a complete stranger (me) replies to another complete stranger (you) then I'll offer my apologies and suggest that if you've worked in a machine shop that you should have a little thicker skin by now. No offense was intended.

As for crud throwing the rack/gear mesh off undetected, it should be noticed by feel when first picking the caliper up to inspect for condition before using it. I haven't gotten "lucky" all these years, neither have all the other tool and die makers I worked with for decades. Use what you want whether vernier, dial, or digital. My opinion shouldn't matter, it's just a guide for others that ask for opinions on this website.

 

[SeisMec]

Why would I want cheap **** at home? Its not like good calipers are expensive. We're talking $100 or less.

Threads like these bring out a strange part of this board.

I don't understand why if someone says "hobbyist" or "DIY" folks automatically assume they mean "cheap or inexpensive".

For some of us, $100 isn't pocket change.

IMO DIY/Hobbyist isn't a usefully determantive term here.

Is the DIY planning to rebuild an engine in her current project car or is he just attempting to determine the dimensions of a bolt on part from a poorly identified once in ten years project. (eg - Small block engine in 1953 GMC Dump truck - egr valve guarantees it's not original - looks like a 305 - but who knows if it's been modified.) If it's identifying bolt on parts , this or even this, probably gets the job done just fine. You may not even have to consult the vernier scale - 1/16" graduations likely being sufficiently accurate for the application.

In the case of this particular post - OP wanting a digital caliper - is he really looking for three decimals of accuracy or just the ability to conveniently take a reading even without glasses on?

 

[Raymond_B]

For some of us, $100 isn't pocket change.

IMO DIY/Hobbyist isn't a usefully determantive term here.

In the case of this particular post - OP wanting a digital caliper - is he really looking for three decimals of accuracy or just the ability to conveniently take a reading even without glasses on?

Excellent point. I might have been vague as I have my own ASSumptions about what DIY or Hobbyist means. I don't mind buying quality to a point, I'm a Tekton tool users so hopefully that defines me a bit.

Maybe this is a better analogy. The current longblock in my project truck (minus fuel system, headers, computer, etc) cost me $10K. As I have been assembling this engine I had the need to measure the overall length of my cam sensor. The MSD specs said I needed to be between 3.996" to 4.005", as I was measuring with my HF digital caliper (yes I prefer digital due to glasses) it struck me that maybe I was jeopardizing a large investment with a "cheap" measuring device. I looked at some of the recommended digital calipers and do not mind spending $125 or so. Maybe I am trying to buy piece of mind?

Hopefully that gives some context which is tough to do on the Internet. Thanks again for all the feedback!

 

[Rabid Badger]

Excellent point. I might have been vague as I have my own ASSumptions about what DIY or Hobbyist means. I don't mind buying quality to a point, I'm a Tekton tool users so hopefully that defines me a bit.

Maybe this is a better analogy. The current longblock in my project truck (minus fuel system, headers, computer, etc) cost me $10K. As I have been assembling this engine I had the need to measure the overall length of my cam sensor. The MSD specs said I needed to be between 3.996" to 4.005", as I was measuring with my HF digital caliper (yes I prefer digital due to glasses) it struck me that maybe I was jeopardizing a large investment with a "cheap" measuring device. I looked at some of the recommended digital calipers and do not mind spending $125 or so. Maybe I am trying to buy piece of mind?

Hopefully that gives some context which is tough to do on the Internet. Thanks again for all the feedback!

In a situation like that I'd be using Mitutoyo.

Your HF calipers can move to woodworking.

 

[SeisMec]

I had the need to measure the overall length of my cam sensor. The MSD specs said I needed to be between 3.996" to 4.005",

Too some degree I'm an HF fanboy, but I'm not rebuilding engines. If I were in your shoes, I'd buy a better caliper. Call it peace of mind.

 

[jeepinerdeep]

I'm in the quality dial caliper camp for occasional use. Dealing with batteries is a pain if you only use them once a month. I've got a set of fowler for fab work and a starrett for precision work.

 

[californiaHank]

I'm also in the camp that prefers dial calipers over digital but I'd qualify that with a big 'BUT' ...

I've got two Starrett dial calipers. A 120AM-150 (150mm) and a 120A-6 (6 inch).
They've served me well for a long time.

They're the only remaining US made dial calipers, and current replacement cost is a bit over $200 each.

If I lost both of them, I'd probably just buy a single Mitutoyo 500-196-30 digital one, which has both inch and millimeter readouts. I think those cost around $120.

I do careful work, but it's only for DIY stuff, and I don't think I could justify the cost of two new sets of dial calipers at today's prices. Mit is a good company and that $120 digital would give me all of the accuracy/reliability/durability I'd ever realistically need from that kind of tool.

Dial calipers are great, but like any tool that's got a lot of precision mechanical parts and needs a lot of labor to manufacture, over the years they've got real expensive compared to comparable electronic versions which don't require so much manual labor to make.

 

[BlakeTheCarGuy]

I use Harbor Freight as a professional mechanic mainly because I don’t know of any other brands or any place that sells them. The only thing I use it for is measuring drums or rotors and that is very seldom that I do a brake job at work.


Sent from my iPhone using Garage Journal

 

[Vpick001]

I have a Husky digital caliber that I bought in store at Home Depot. Has an on/off button that helps save battery life, a nice case, a free extra battery (one installed with a plastic pull tab to allow the battery to contact when you’re ready, plus the extra), and a lifetime warranty.

Full disclosure, I am a fairly casual user of it, maybe once every month or so. Have had no problems with over a year of ownership. Seems to be a good middle ground between HF and the higher end models.

 

[Bacon!]

I have Mitutoyo calipers both at the shop and at home. They are the industry standard for a reason. They're just really nice calipers for a very fair price.

Why would I want cheap **** at home? Its not like good calipers are expensive. We're talking $100 or less.

This is the same false logic that could be applied to most tools, that someone is mythically forced to choose between two extremes of high end and cheap ****, when the reality is the same as always, that there are a wide gulf in the middle where MOST products lie between high end and cheap ****. Granted, there are a lot more relabel brands of cheap **** with calipers, but it is still true.

Threads like these bring out a strange part of this board.

I don't understand why if someone says "hobbyist" or "DIY" folks automatically assume they mean "cheap or inexpensive".

It's not at all strange to not want to waste money, and it is often true that occasional use tools, especially where less precision is needed, don't need to be high end. Practically everyone has many tools that fit this scenario.

Somehow, we've intermingled DIY with "low budget". When I DIY something, I want the best I can get my hands on.

Yes, it only makes sense for the lifetime of the tool to be appropriate to # of uses, as well as some features that may not be worth the extra money if not constantly using the tool, and then there's whether you personally, or your employer is paying for it, and frankly "the best" is usually a mental thing, not really necessary to get jobs done. Tools have improved over the years but people were professionally getting work done with less than "the best" for as long as there have been tools.

I HATE using cheap tools. Just because I'm not making my living with something I can't use the good one? When did this become the norm in thinking?

It has always been normal thinking to not waste money on more tool than needed to get the job done multiplied by # of jobs (lifespan), what inconvenience or loss there would be if work is interrupted, etc.

You are trying to suggest this is unusual when it is far more recent and unusual that someone tries for the best product on earth because they have extensive access to the info to make that determination. For a century people just went to the local hardware store and bought what that store carried... and got the job done. Granted, today we have especially cheap Chinese junk too, so as mentioned above, you can use the available info to pick a sane middle ground between wasting money and ending up with junk.

If we look at tools as a hobby, which some here do, it doesn't seem to line up with typical hobby spending. Guys will spend THOUSANDS and THOUSANDS on electronics, guns, tractors, classic cars, collectibles, golf, bicycles, and who knows what else for their hobbies, but we somehow assume they're unwilling to spend more than a harbor freight budget on their tools?

Yeah, it's called a budget. You spend more on what is important to you and less on what isn't. Stating that someone spend some dollar amount on a hobby to then suggest they should spend (waste) money on more tool than they need, makes no sense. I am quite certain that every single thing in your life is not the most expensive version of that thing possible. You couldn't do it even if you tried because there is always some newer, shinier widget to come along, faster than you can buy the thousands of things you own.

When I shop for my hobbies, I get the nicest things I can afford in that area. If it is something I enjoy that much, then I want the good stuff.

I don't particularly enjoy measuring things, but accept it as necessary. It does not change my view to use some expensive caliper. It would change my view to have to change the battery every time I tried to use it.

If you truly can't afford something, then that's one thing. I don't think anyone is saying you should choose between tools and your light bill. But if you're just being cheap for no reason, well I have no comprehension of that.

Not wasting money is how most people build up wealth. Personally I also like to support companies that aren't so arrogant as to overprice their tools. For example, I'll never buy new Snap On tools.

There is always a reason not to waste money. If nothing else this leaves more money to donate to a charity, or support local businesses.

It just seems weird on a board of tool collectors and enthusiasts we have such a large amount of people who constantly recommend getting the cheapest thing you can get away with.

I feel that way about Harbor Freight tools. I don't feel that way at all about most major brand tools, not counting some low end stuff like Stanley B&D but even some of their stuff is adequate for infrequent use.

If you use your tools even more than just occasionally, I would want at least average to "good" stuff for the vast majority of your collection and really spend the money on stuff you'll use more often. You don't need to buy the best of the best for everything, but if the good stuff isn't a hard get, why not get that?

Now we are closer to agreement. Average to good is the right place to be for tools whose use warrants it, but today there are many good tools without paying a premium.

The price difference between some very mediocre calipers and some very nice calipers is only like, $50. That seems like a very easy sell to me.

If you can justify the extra expense for your use, great. For my uses I might as well burn the money, would make no difference because my caliper does not eat batteries, is accurate enough and repeatable enough for my needs. It was $23 which is not $50 difference, rather closer to 500% price difference.

I like to support local businesses and US tool manufacturers, but the truth is that China is now making decent quality tools in addition to junk. Read Amazon reviews critically, watch youtube videos, and make an educated decision instead of just assuming you have to pay a premium to get a good result.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018D9JPPA/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I very rarely have any problems with tools I purchase, except when I try to go for the cheapest possible. I take that back, I think I have a few 50 year old electric tools that need a new cord and lubed. They weren't high end either, and 50 years of use... I'm okay with that.

 

[RAYJAY]

I have this one for a throwaway at work so far 1 year in and working great really shocked how good this has been.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017KUC6XQ/?tag=atomicindus08-20

also have the I gauge for my shop needs at home

 

[dr_clyde]

Bacon, let’s just say we probably won’t ever see eye to eye on this.

I don’t pretend to have all the answers, nor do I claim to be right all the time. I have my opinions about tools, and you’re free to ignore them if they don’t apply to you. But I still stand by what I said, because that’s how I buy tools and live my life. And I’m doing just fine, thanks.

I firmly believe in either buying the best you can afford for tools or renting. Maybe the best you can afford is HF. Then that’s what you should buy.

I’m getting pretty tired of the echo chamber this site has become. It’s become pretty clear my opinions and interests no longer align with the membership here. I’m probably going to take a break for a while and see how that goes. Which is too bad, I used to really like this site.

 

[jeffmoss26]

I have a Fowler digital caliper I bought from a retiring coworker some years ago.
Use it daily locksmithing and never had an issue!

 

[mille755]

Saw quite a bit of praise for Fowler, but I am almost positive that the budget level from Fowler is identical to HF, at least with the dial calipers. My work ordered me a set, I think they were $30-50 bucks, and had at 3 defects and the rack motion was gritty, they looked identical to the harbor freight dials down to the typical chinese font. These were ordered thru McMaster, and we had ordered another set previously that was way better quality for the same price. I emailed the VP or quality or somesuch, and I said, "Is this the quality I should expect at this price point?" And he sent me a set of their nicer ones, so maybe the answer is yes that's all you get.

 

[mille755]

I guess the tldr about Fowler is they are more of a brand than a manufacturer.

 

[Tinner]

The lowest level Fowler is about like anything at that price point. Go up a notch or two and you'll get a much better tool.

 

[dkroth]

I bought these Chinese calipers because of the huge numbers.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001AQEZ2W/?tag=atomicindus08-20

.

 

[jayemm]

If you are looking for moderately (mid-priced) calipers that come with individual certification sheet, look at Shars Tools calipers.The calipers are branded Aventor and take a large coin cell battery so battery longevity should be quite good.Shars also has an ebay store but I don't think the prices are any cheaper there.This thread has me considering upgrading my calipers.Thanks Garage Journal,another reason to spend more money on "toys" . LOL

 

[908Jim]

I want to add an additional point to this thread. Without going down the whole "precision vs accuracy" rabbit hole, I will simply say that just because it READS to .001 doesn't mean it is ACCURATE to .001. If you need to verify something is +/- .001, a caliper is the wrong tool to use in the first place.

In general, quality (or lack of) will be evident when using NIST traceable standards to verify the caliper over the range of measurement. I have often seen quality issues show up in 2 areas:

1) It is not uncommon at all to see cheap digital calipers go out of whack at a random point on the scale due to poor manufacturing when engraving/making the scale. They may read within .001 for most of the range, then go +/- .002 or larger randomly on the scale.

2)In spec (+/- .001 for 0-6") across the scale with outside jaws, but larger error (over .001) on inside diameter or step measurements due to poor manufacturing tolerances.

As a good practice, I periodically verify my calipers against calibrated standards (see below). One of my favorite "On the fly" sanity checks for home/automotive ship users is to simply use a new, high quality ball bearing. They are generally precision ground to tolerances well within the acceptable accuracy of a caliper and will be "good enough" to let you know if there's an issue.

 

[seber]

I have Mitutoyo digital and I would say you can't do much better without spending at least twice as much. On the other hand, I seldom use it. Dials are more accurate and faster. Then again, I happen to have Brown and Sharpe so it is an unfair comparison.

 

[tarbellb]

Ah Dr Clyde, dont get to miffed by this forum. We are all tool nerds, just in different capacities.

I bet if members here were taking their own pet project to a shop they would want it kitted out like yours.

 

[dnschmidt]

Don't want to get into a cat fight with bacon and dr. clyde but the particular tool that we're discussing here is much different than any normal tool. A precision measuring instrument is either dead nuts right OR IT'S WRONG. It's not like a hammer where small differences are pretty much meaningless as you're just smashing something with it. Modern engine bearing clearances are as small as 0.0002 of an inch. I'm not using a cheap dial bore gauge to attempt to measure that. So, in this case I'm clearly on Dr. Clyde's side.

 

[davethorik]

I think it bears repeating but I am pretty sure the same factory in China is pumping out everyone's "mid range" selections, as well as the HF. Igaging, shars, Fowler, insize. If you have a basic need, the HF models are fine. Spending more on any of the relabeled brands is silly. Spend more on good units (Mitutoyo) if you need. My 2 cents.

 

[Don1357]

I want to add an additional point to this thread. Without going down the whole "precision vs accuracy" rabbit hole, I will simply say that just because it READS to .001 doesn't mean it is ACCURATE to .001. If you need to verify something is +/- .001, a caliper is the wrong tool to use in the first place.

I use mine all the time in reloading where .001 is a meaningful number. For instance my .44 likes boolits that are .002 over bore. Heck for 44 caliber I have sizing dies in .029, .030, and .031 I can easily measure which die a particular boolit ran through.

 

[RoninB4]

I use mine all the time in reloading where .001 is a meaningful number. For instance my .44 likes boolits that are .002 over bore. Heck for 44 caliber I have sizing dies in .029, .030, and .031 I can easily measure which die a particular boolit ran through.

-Maybe you can tell which die as a comparative value but that doesn't mean it's an accurate number that should be trusted as a quantitative number. There is a big difference between the two at the .001 level. Do what you want to, enough correct information has already been posted to decide how critical your readings are for the application. Ganbatte.

 

[Citation]

Don't want to get into a cat fight with bacon and dr. clyde but the particular tool that we're discussing here is much different than any normal tool. A precision measuring instrument is either dead nuts right OR IT'S WRONG. It's not like a hammer where small differences are pretty much meaningless as you're just smashing something with it. Modern engine bearing clearances are as small as 0.0002 of an inch. I'm not using a cheap dial bore gauge to attempt to measure that. So, in this case I'm clearly on Dr. Clyde's side.

If those dimensions are critical then a micrometer is the tool to use.

-Maybe you can tell which die as a comparative value but that doesn't mean it's an accurate number that should be trusted as a quantitative number. There is a big difference between the two at the .001 level. Do what you want to, enough correct information has already been posted to decide how critical your readings are for the application. Ganbatte.

Again, micrometers are what should be used if this is that critical.

A few jobs back I had a set of yearly calibrated Mitutoyo calipers. For personal use I had picked up a set of generic, $20 digital calipers. I was actually quite impressed with the generic calipers other than the battery life sucked. A common thing I would do at work was use my calipers to measure solid wire to verify gauge. This was for engineering purposes just to verify to me that the sample I was holding was say 25 gauge vs 24. We had a metorology group for the measurements that counted. Anyway, I noticed that my generic calipers were typically spot on when measuring these wires while my Mitutoyos were normally 0.5" thousandths off. A wire that should measure 0.0160" would measure 0.0155" The wire tolerance was something like +-0.2 thousandths and when measured with micrometers would always be within 0.1 thousandth. That 0.5 thou off is still within the stated accuracy of any of these calipers but still. I noticed that my generic calipers were closer to true. I think I found that to be true when checking against a 1.000" gauge block as well but I it's been a while. These generics were not as smooth as the Mitutoyos but they more than sufficient.

A few years later I bought a set of HF generics since they looked basically like the ones I had. They were total **** in comparison. It was like they were precision ground with a belt sander.

Anyway, my point is the generic ones can be quite good. The biggest issue seems to be if this or that particular set of off brand calipers are any good. I've handled perhaps 5 sets of iGaging calipers. All were good.

 

[slowtwitch73]

Mitutoyo or a high quality copy. The Mit hardened tips are second to none for scribing. Measuring tool, carbide scribe and hermaphrodite calipers all in one. Batteries last just shy of forever.

 

[Bacon!]

Don't want to get into a cat fight with bacon and dr. clyde but the particular tool that we're discussing here is much different than any normal tool. A precision measuring instrument is either dead nuts right OR IT'S WRONG. It's not like a hammer where small differences are pretty much meaningless as you're just smashing something with it. Modern engine bearing clearances are as small as 0.0002 of an inch. I'm not using a cheap dial bore gauge to attempt to measure that. So, in this case I'm clearly on Dr. Clyde's side.

For many people it is more like a hammer where you just need to smash out a number that's very close. I'm not rebuilding engines.

You've decided what you need, and I the same... the way it should be.

I have no regrets about mine, would buy the same again. It would have been nice if the plastic case had a mechanical rather than living hinge on the back. I'd pick that over 0.0002" additional accuracy.

 

[Don1357]

-Maybe you can tell which die as a comparative value but that doesn't mean it's an accurate number that should be trusted as a quantitative number. There is a big difference between the two at the .001 level. Do what you want to, enough correct information has already been posted to decide how critical your readings are for the application. Ganbatte.

You are talking calibration, I am talking accuracy.

Look again at what I was responding to:

I want to add an additional point to this thread. Without going down the whole "precision vs accuracy" rabbit hole, I will simply say that just because it READS to .001 doesn't mean it is ACCURATE to .001. If you need to verify something is +/- .001, a caliper is the wrong tool to use in the first place.

So if I slug my barrel (manually force a slightly oversize round of soft lead so I can take a direct measurement of the barrel bore) and I measure it 20 times, the capacity for accuracy of the instrument is how many time I will hit the same .001" measurement. Honestly I'm more interested in this accuracy than an absolute calibration to a universally accepted standard; if I can consistently measure .002" over bore I'm a happy camper.

 

[dscheidt]

So if I slug my barrel (manually force a slightly oversize round of soft lead so I can take a direct measurement of the barrel bore) and I measure it 20 times, the capacity for accuracy of the instrument is how many time I will hit the same .001" measurement. Honestly I'm more interested in this accuracy than an absolute calibration to a universally accepted standard; if I can consistently measure .002" over bore I'm a happy camper.

What you are calling accuracy is generally called 'precision' by the rest of the english speaking world. precision is repeatability, accuracy is closeness to the actual value. for many purposes, precision is more important than absolute accuracy, especially when you're only using one measuring tool. When you need to compare results between tools or people, accuracy matters, too.