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DIY Home Shop Electrical Tool List

bcradio

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I have recently bee troubleshooting some electrical issues on my car and ATV. Can you guys help me come up with a good tool list for troubleshooting and fixing electrical issues on cars/trucks/motorcycles/ATVs? I just need the main items and not super expensive versions of them.

Things I know I need:
-digital multi-meter (what is a good one?)

Things I have:
-crimpers
-wire strippers

What else would be good to get to help troubleshoot and fix common issues? Do I need a battery tester or does a DMM work?

Thanks
 
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blasto9000

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I use an Extech multimeter. It came with an external temp sensor probe, but also has one built-in to the unit. The external probe is a common K-type thermocouple, so any common temp probe will work with this meter. It also has a built-in frequency counter, which is good to check if fuel injectors, reluctors, tone rings, etc etc etc are working properly. Pretty much anything with a pulsed signal, which is a lot of items in modern vehicles.

Extech has a bunch of models and many of them are available at Fry's.
 
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bcradio

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I use an Extech multimeter. It came with an external temp sensor probe, but also has one built-in to the unit. The external probe is a common K-type thermocouple, so any common temp probe will work with this meter. It also has a built-in frequency counter, which is good to check if fuel injectors, reluctors, tone rings, etc etc etc are working properly. Pretty much anything with a pulsed signal, which is a lot of items in modern vehicles.

Extech has a bunch of models and many of them are available at Fry's.

What model is yours if you don't mind me asking?
 

mayday0017

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I hope by crimpers you mean

this
%5Cmedium%5Ctn_VT1005a.jpg


and not
crimpers.JPG


Honestly I use the top ones for about everything, I strip, crimp, cut all with them and quickly too.... Also recommend cheap tape for taping wires together and 3M tape for any actual connections (hopefully soldered).
 

mayday0017

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My electrical box consists of the following

Solder
Butane
Butane Solder Iron
3M tape
Cheap tape (call it jap wrap)
Zip ties
Insulated crimp caps
Insulated male/female connectors
Crimpers shown in previous post
Ulfa knife
Multimeter
Alagator clip wires
Spair fuses

I can tackle most any electrical wiring issue with these items and get professional results...
 
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bcradio

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I hope by crimpers you mean

this
%5Cmedium%5Ctn_VT1005a.jpg


and not
crimpers.JPG


Honestly I use the top ones for about everything, I strip, crimp, cut all with them and quickly too.... Also recommend cheap tape for taping wires together and 3M tape for any actual connections (hopefully soldered).

Thanks for the reply... I do have crimpers similar to the top ones but they are the Channelock version (when they were on sale at HD for $10)

I don't strip wires with them though.

Thanks for the reminder, I need to add soldering gun to my list of things to get.
 

mayday0017

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Learn to strip wires with them.... in the 12v world of car installers almost every installer you will find uses them for everything. I can strip any gauge of wire with them and fast. Couldn't imagine what I would do with out them, they are still to this day my fav tool in the garage and I don't do installs anymore...
 

waterboy12

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Learn to strip wires with them.... in the 12v world of car installers almost every installer you will find uses them for everything. I can strip any gauge of wire with them and fast. Couldn't imagine what I would do with out them, they are still to this day my fav tool in the garage and I don't do installs anymore...

How do you strip wire with them, if you don't mind me asking?
 

jeffmoss26

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waterboy12-You can strip wire (carefully) with the cutting edges of any pair of diagonal cutters/crimpers. It's hard to explain but once you get the hang of it, you can strip just about any size wire without nicking it.

bcradio-from my own experience (low voltage wiring), cheap electrical tape is used for things like bundling wires and attaching them to fish tapes. 3M's higher quality tape is used for insulating splices, taping around receptacles and switches, etc. They make a wide range of tapes, but the standard is Super 33+. It has a very good adhesive and is easy to work with. It costs more but is worth it.
 

mayday0017

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Jeff nailed pretty much all of the questions directed at me...

One other thing on cheap vs expensive (super 33+ 3M tape), Cheap electrical tape will not stretch like 3M will making it not as tight of a fit, and cheap tape will come off over time with temp changes and cause shorts or possibly a fire. Ironically it will last forever when bundling wires together..... Technically you could use 3M tape for everything, but at $4 a roll for 3M vs $4 for 10 rolls of harborfreight tape depending on how much electrical you do this could get VERY expensive VERY quick...
 

signcrafter

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Electrical trouble shooting is one thing I have been learning in the last year or two and also buying more tools to trouble shoot. Things add up real fast!

First thing I would recomend is this book, it was recomended by another member and I found it easy to understand and learned a lot. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004IKO09K/?tag=atomicindus08-20. You can buy it with the test leads or by itself. The test leads are pretty nice, they will put a small load on a whole circuit so it makes testing it fairly quick.

Also an amp clamp to go with your volt meter. A power probe III is a great trouble shooting tool, probably my most used even over my fluke. A butane soldering iron will do most anything you need in a car and is nice not to have a cord. There are all sorts of tools for electrical depending on how deep you want to get into it.

Here is a past post I bookmarked and post #4 is by Stick who is really good at electrical and has some articles on here about it, http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=130107&highlight=electrical&showall=1.
 

Brownsfan

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Check out the 3m 700 commercial grade tape at Lowes and Home Depot. It is as sticky as 33 but not as stretchy. I use it for everything. It is 10 bucks for a five pack at Depot and 1.65 a roll if you by 6+ at Lowes. I also use the crimpers for everything. I also use the Channellock ones. The only ones I have found with a better stronger cutter is the Snap On 29cp's. Is this box mostly vehicle electrical? A good inexpensive meter is the Klein at HD. The model is MM2000. http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...gId=-1&keyword=klein+multimeter&storeId=10051 I have this meter and it replaced my Fluke 73 when it broke. I did not have the money at the time to buy the Fluke and I was going into remote start season and needed a meter now. It is great for the money. I will be getting the Fluke 233 with the detachable lcd. Also as stated above a butane soldering iron is very useful.
 

jeffmoss26

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I'll have to check that tape out, Brownsfan.
I use 3M Temflex as my 'cheap' stuff, 35 for color coding, and Super 33 for my good stuff. I think I also have a roll of Super 88 somewhere. I use a lot of tape!!
 
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bcradio

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Electrical trouble shooting is one thing I have been learning in the last year or two and also buying more tools to trouble shoot. Things add up real fast!

First thing I would recomend is this book, it was recomended by another member and I found it easy to understand and learned a lot. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004IKO09K/?tag=atomicindus08-20. You can buy it with the test leads or by itself. The test leads are pretty nice, they will put a small load on a whole circuit so it makes testing it fairly quick.

Also an amp clamp to go with your volt meter. A power probe III is a great trouble shooting tool, probably my most used even over my fluke. A butane soldering iron will do most anything you need in a car and is nice not to have a cord. There are all sorts of tools for electrical depending on how deep you want to get into it.

Here is a past post I bookmarked and post #4 is by Stick who is really good at electrical and has some articles on here about it, http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=130107&highlight=electrical&showall=1.

Thanks for the link. I will definitely be reading through that.

I have never used a power probe III or a butane soldering gun. What can those be used for?
 

Brownsfan

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Check it out you will be surprised at the similarities in them. I installed well over 300 remote starts last year using this tape with 0 issues. It even sticks well in the cold. I use a **** load of tape. I tape everything up to look factory inder the dash. So every thing is wrapped in tape. I solder EVERY connection and this tape performs even on a warm solder joint. It is just easier to buy 1 type of tape.
 
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bcradio

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s this box mostly vehicle electrical?

A good inexpensive meter is the Klein at HD. The model is MM2000. http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...gId=-1&keyword=klein+multimeter&storeId=10051 I have this meter and it replaced my Fluke 73 when it broke. I did not have the money at the time to buy the Fluke and I was going into remote start season and needed a meter now. It is great for the money. I will be getting the Fluke 233 with the detachable lcd. Also as stated above a butane soldering iron is very useful.

This will primarily be used for working on vehicles. That meter looks like a pretty nice one. How long have you had it?

Anyone else use kliens DMM's?
 

Brownsfan

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Thanks for the link. I will definitely be reading through that.

I have never used a power probe III or a butane soldering gun. What can those be used for?

Power Probe is great for troubleshooting things like window motors,door lock motors, testing fuses etc. In the wrong hands they can be down right dangerous because you can inject 12v or ground into a circuit pretty easily. Butane soldering irons are great for soldering connections in vehicles. There are no cords to fight with. Once you use one for a electrical job you will keep using it. If you are not real expierienced in 12v electrical trouble shooting stick with a DMM until you become more proficient.
 

Brownsfan

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This will primarily be used for working on vehicles. That meter looks like a pretty nice one. How long have you had it?

Anyone else use kliens DMM's?

Over a year now. No issues or complaints. I also have the AC/DC clamp meter as well. Pretty good value.
 
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richfinn

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1. UEi DL49 Clamp meter. great for fuel pumps/glow plugs/starter and alternator current

2. any type of power probe depending on budget

3. soldering iron/solder/heat shrink tube

4. quality strippers/crimpers (I prefer the ratchet crimpers)

5. Loadpro test leads (good for finding corrosion)

6. 4mm banana plug test leads and accessories

7. a really good flash light for reading terminal numbers/wire colours

8. wiring diagrams.

9. training on ohms/faradays/kirchoffs laws and volt drop testing

10. portable digital storage scope (fairly cheap now)

You can get really nice Fluke meters cheap on e-bay which have nicer features than the cheapo versions.
 

Brownsfan

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1. UEi DL49 Clamp meter. great for fuel pumps/glow plugs/starter and alternator current

2. any type of power probe depending on budget

3. soldering iron/solder/heat shrink tube

4. quality strippers/crimpers (I prefer the ratchet crimpers)

5. Loadpro test leads (good for finding corrosion)

6. 4mm banana plug test leads and accessories

7. a really good flash light for reading terminal numbers/wire colours

8. wiring diagrams.

9. training on ohms/faradays/kirchoffs laws and volt drop testing

10. portable digital storage scope (fairly cheap now)

You can get really nice Fluke meters cheap on e-bay which have nicer features than the cheapo versions.

I use this for testing a circuits ability to deliver an actual 12v.http://www.hickok-inc.com/catalog/products/76600_voltpro.html. This thing has saved me hours in troubleshooting times. I specialize in automotive electrical and this is a life saver. Watch the video they have on the site. It does a great job explaining it.
 
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bcradio

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richfinn

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I use this for testing a circuits ability to deliver an actual 12v.http://www.hickok-inc.com/catalog/products/76600_voltpro.html. This thing has saved me hours in troubleshooting times. I specialize in automotive electrical and this is a life saver. Watch the video they have on the site. It does a great job explaining it.

Thats cool, kinda like a PP3 and Loadpro combined:thumbup:

Thanks for posting it up:beer:

I worked as an Auto Electrician before I worked for RAC.
 

Brownsfan

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Looks pretty handy. Whats the cost on that bad boy?

I paid 140 off the Snap On truck. They can be found cheaper on the net. I do not buy things like that of the internet. I had the first one break and he made a special trip to the shop and swapped it. The internet cant do that. I will pay the extra money for that service and help out a fellow small business owner. I love this tool and considered the load pro leads for my meter but decided on the Volt-Pro.
 

dwp99

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My electrical kit consists of a Fluke 88 digital multi-meter, high impedance test light, a few test leads of varying lengths, butane soldering iron, rosin core solder, heat shrink, butane torch, wire strippers, wire crimpers, wire ties, flush cut cutters, paper clips and ATO & ATM circuit breakers.

I also put together a set of test leads with different ends on them so I could just plug directly into a circuit.

I use the flush cuts to cut wire ties off flush with the female end. It sure makes it nice when you put your hand down in a bunch of wires that the ends of the ties have been cut flush, you don't pull back a ****** arm.

Circuit breakers also make it nice to troubleshoot. you can go through a package of fuses before you find the problem.

The paper clips are to stick into the small connectors without stretching them out where they will loose connection when plugged back together.
 

bmxr4life87

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Instead of paperclips i use t pins i get 50 of em for $e at wally world in the sewing section. They are great for probing connectors. I made a fused jumper wire for jumping switches and relays if needed. I have a nice matco autoranging meter at work and an amprobe 33xra? In my tool bag. Both are full capacity meters meaning they will do everything you need em to on a car and around the house. The amprobe can be had for $60 but mine was a gift. A set of retractable test leads are very handy as is a test light with a wire hook and a coiled ground lead so you can stretch it a bit.
 

dwp99

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No one mentioned shrink tubing?

Find a proper electrical supplier that sells it in 4ft lengths & get a bunch of colors/sizes

I mentioned heat shrink in my post also. But I should also mention to get it with a meltable inner liner. some is sold without

Bmxr4life87 Good suggestion on the T-pins, I would just take paperclips from the boss' desk.
 

mayday0017

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I buy my shrink in a roll, much easier to store in your toolchest. Honestly don't use it that much... I use it when I"m making wiring harness's but that's about it. Solder plus 3M tape is all the protection you need.... Plus I try not to cut factory wires I just strip them back and tie into them in which case you couldn't heat shrink if you wanted to...
 
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bcradio

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No one mentioned shrink tubing?

Find a proper electrical supplier that sells it in 4ft lengths & get a bunch of colors/sizes

where would I use shrink tube vs just electrical tape? I'd rather fix it right then have the tape melt or come undone.

Also, looking at the Fluke 88, it seems very pricey. Is this something a home DIY would be wise to invest in or would a less expensive model suit almost as well?

Thanks
 
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Outlawmws

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where would I use shrink tube vs just electrical tape? I'd rather fix it right then have the tape melt or come undone.

Thanks

Heat shrink works real well on individual wire splices, or where the bundle is even. Tape you can get creative with for bundles of wire and for conforming to branches in a wire loom. Tape also allows you to tape up a bend in the wire, heat shrink is less "bendable" and will tend to pull the wire straighter.
 

Outlawmws

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where would I use shrink tube vs just electrical tape? I'd rather fix it right then have the tape melt or come undone.

Also, looking at the Fluke 88, it seems very pricey. Is this something a home DIY would be wise to invest in or would a less expensive model suit almost as well?

Thanks

What are you measuring and in what environment? I have fluke, Simpsons,, etc, and 99.9% of the time use an inexpensive DVM, but I'm doing low voltage, (typically 12VDC or less) and the occasional check on house current. Above that or for industrial/professional use, go fluke and the better grade units.
 
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bcradio

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What are you measuring and in what environment? I have fluke, Simpsons,, etc, and 99.9% of the time use an inexpensive DVM, but I'm doing low voltage, (typically 12VDC or less) and the occasional check on house current. Above that or for industrial/professional use, go fluke and the better grade units.

Probably about the same as you mention. A few things around the house and mostly automotive type stuff. How many use one like this?

41FEln1zWhL._AA160_.jpg


Also, I think I like the option of auto ranging on it. What are some good DMM's with this feature?
 
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richfinn

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Probably about the same as you mention. A few things around the house and mostly automotive type stuff. How many use one like this?

41FEln1zWhL._AA160_.jpg


Also, I think I like the option of auto ranging on it. What are some good DMM's with this feature?

After being sceptical at first I have been won over by UEi, they really are the poor mans Fluke. They have a great range and are reasonable prices.

I keep my Fluke for Sunday best now:D

You need an AC/DC clamp for automotive, many are AC only:D

http://www.ueitest.com/
 

battmain

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Does a beginner really need a Fluke? I mean a $2.99 Harbor Freight DVM will work just as good to start. I have several voltmeters, including a Fluke and the HF one gets the most use. Probably because I can afford to damage it and throw it away.

No one mentioned not to use electrical tape *inside* the car. After a while, the heat will cause the bundle to become a gooey mess. They make non-adhesive tape.
 
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