itneverends
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Anybody have any experience with Hessaire mini splits that Home Depot has in stock and on the self?
Thanks!
Thanks!
DIY Mini Splits
- Thread starter itneverends
- Start date
From Google,
Hessaire Products, Inc.is a company that manufactures air-movement products, including evaporative coolers, ventilation fans, and mini splits. Jack Hess founded Hessaire in 1997 in Cullman, Alabama. Hessaire products are developed in Cullman, Alabama and manufactured in Jingjinag, China.
Compare the warranties of this brand to that of another DYI brand such as Mr. Cool.
Compare the SEERs to other DYI brands.
Research getting parts and their costs such as the compressor and main control board.
Now compare the above to systems from Bosch, Carrier, Fujitsu, LG, Rheem, Goodman, Trane, and Mitsubishi.
There is a price difference, as well as reliability, warranty, and parts factors.
Hessaire Products, Inc.is a company that manufactures air-movement products, including evaporative coolers, ventilation fans, and mini splits. Jack Hess founded Hessaire in 1997 in Cullman, Alabama. Hessaire products are developed in Cullman, Alabama and manufactured in Jingjinag, China.
Compare the warranties of this brand to that of another DYI brand such as Mr. Cool.
Compare the SEERs to other DYI brands.
Research getting parts and their costs such as the compressor and main control board.
Now compare the above to systems from Bosch, Carrier, Fujitsu, LG, Rheem, Goodman, Trane, and Mitsubishi.
There is a price difference, as well as reliability, warranty, and parts factors.
Mike65
Well-known member
I did notice that Lowes sells the Mr. Cool DIY units.
i've got two 18K btu ones. They're both the higher efficiency version (though I bought the cheaper less efficient one for the garage, but got the wrong one shipped to me.). They're spilts. They work fine, the controls **** (via the remote. I haven't tried to figure out how to get wifi working, because it requires a phone home app.) , like all of them do. They are not any more diy than any other split, you need to evacuate the lineset, but hessair offers the warranty to self-install (I think, I don't care). They're quiet, indoor and outside unit both. The outside unit makes some noise during heating mode.
OP
itneverends
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Much appreciated! I need two of the 18k. My local Home Depot has them in stock so I can take the guess work out of not knowing if they give me the right unit or not, and I can inspect for any damage right there in the store .
I think it’s worth the gamble. $1000 each is not that much invested and Home Depot will accept returns for 90 days, and a full year if you apply for their credit card ( on the fence about that).
I’m curious, How long have you been using those units?
The one in my basement was installed last year, replacing a failing and undersized unit. The one in the garage was this summer. They both came from HD. The first was bought because it was on sale when I realized I needed to replace the basement unit. the second was also bought on sale, but based on the first one working fine. I wanted the less efficent one both because it was a bit cheaper (and I'm not going to run it enough to make up the cost in energy savings) and because its heat output (and efficency) is higher.
ratflinger
Well-known member
Pioneer has nice units - 18k for $838, After shipping might be about the same.
www.highseer.com
Ductless Split Air Conditioning | Heating System | DC Inverter
Ductless DC Inverter High Wall Mounted Split Air Conditioning and Heating System. Operation Mode: Cooling and Heating. Capacity: 18,000 BTU/Hr. (1.5 Ton) Efficiency Rating:19 S.E.E.R. Electrical Specification: 208~230 VAC, 1 Phase, 60 Hertz.
www.highseer.com
whateg01
Well-known member
I hadn't considered looking at hd or Lowe's. Seems like senville units get good reviews so I had been leaning that way. Maybe I'll consider these though since I can walk into the store and buy one.
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itneverends
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I like what a see about the Senville too! It’s just that I don’t want to go down the road of possible problems associated with shipping.
PopcornSutton
Well-known member
I can't believe these DIY units require the line sets to be evacuated. That puts it beyond DIY 99.5% of the time.
Pioneer sells this purge can so in theory you don't have to evacuate the system. And Mr.cool DIY systems have prefilled lines so you don't have to.
KWIK-E-VAC Line Set Flushing Kit Installation Simplifier for Mini Split Air Conditioning Systems
Overview Summary Flush the air and other non-condensable gases out of the copper line set and indoor unit Alternative for the inefficient and expensive quick-connect line sets Cost-effective, simple, and quick evacuation Perfect for most people and installations Description Pioneer KWIK-E-VAC is...
www.pioneerminisplit.com
PopcornSutton
Well-known member
Pre filled lines makes sense if you can live with the lengths they have.
If you can do the rest of the work required, like drilling holes in your building, getting electrical to where it needs to be, you can hook up a vacuum pump and wait for it to pull a hard vacuum, and wait to see if it decays. the price of a vaccum pump and gauge set suitable for the purpose is less than the price premium for a set with precharged line sets, and both can be rented if you don't want to have them around.
ratflinger
Well-known member
I've read the instructions for the Kwik-E-Vac, it does pressurize the line set, but I'm not sure that it pressurizes at a high enough level to accurately hunt for leaks. I already have a vacuum pump so that beats $38 a can for the gas.
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itneverends
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Labor Day sales are making me want to pull the trigger on Mr. Cool. Tell be all the bad about these and let’s see if I can counter all the negative about these. The particular unit I’m eyeing at Home Depot
ratflinger
Well-known member
That unit is comparable to the other brands listed in this thread, however that is not the DIY version if that is what you are looking for. It will have the general flared, non-charged copper lines.
These sales are not unexpected as all the manufacturers are wanting to get rid of their stock of R410 units.
These sales are not unexpected as all the manufacturers are wanting to get rid of their stock of R410 units.
Have had 3 Daikin mini's for over 4 years. Warrentys are about useless, do not include labor, local Daikin dealer is a gas and go crook. Replaced a evaporator coil in one unit already. If either of the other 2 units gives me issues I will replace with inverter window units. Been playing with a LG 9500 dual inverter in my RV. Slightly louder than the mini's but if I have an issue throw it out and put a new one in. Maybe even buy 2 so I have a spare handy. I will put an opening in the wall and not install in a window.
like2wheel
Well-known member
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Would you be putting the LG in your house or garage? Or both
whateg01
Well-known member
I just pulled the trigger on a senville aura, which has hyper heat.
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itneverends
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I like Senville. I would order one if I knew it could be delivered to my house. I live a ways from the road and most delivery trucks are unable to make the turn into my driveway.
Please let be know how your Senville is delivered and what kind of truck. Thanks!
pcmeiners
Well-known member
"I would order one if I knew it could be delivered to my house"
Pick it up at a warehouse /trucking depot, the two pieces only weigh <140lbs
Pick it up at a warehouse /trucking depot, the two pieces only weigh <140lbs
House, thinking about the Media that can still operate window for the garage.
I have the 24k version of that Mr cool unit from home depot, I bought it because: 1) it was about $1100 on sale with my military discount, 2) I already have a vacuum pump that I use for automotive HVAC, and 3) the app enables decent control of the unit (the remote controls on just about any minisplit unit allow huge temp swings, and the fan runs constantly on every mode). Other than having to vacuum the lines, it was half the cost of the DIY version and just about the same amount of labor.
dwebster299
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I have an LG unit, been in place in the garage for 3 years now. Never had an issue with it. 1 1/2 Ton.
tunerwithkids
Active member
Most minisplits are now made by 1 of 3 companies....Gree, Midea, or AUX.
I've got experience with Pioneer made by Midea and have it in my garage for last 3 years.
I recently installed a second unit on other end of my garage using a budget, Yitahome made by AUX.
I saw on slickdeals for $421 and took a chance and it works great. Basically throw away units after a few years since its so cheap.
I've got experience with Pioneer made by Midea and have it in my garage for last 3 years.
I recently installed a second unit on other end of my garage using a budget, Yitahome made by AUX.
I saw on slickdeals for $421 and took a chance and it works great. Basically throw away units after a few years since its so cheap.
dcg9381
Well-known member
Daikin seems to be a 4th, or do I have that wrong?
ratflinger
Well-known member
I believe Daikin only makes for themselves, Mitsubishi & LG also make their own. But those are Japaneses or Korean companies, Gree, AUX, & Midea are Chinese contract manufacturers.
JackOfDiamonds
Well-known member
I've done the mini-split myself and also don't think pulling vacuum is difficult whatsoever. There's a cost, but it's not a hard thing to do.
Second, I am of the mind that a vacuum pump is not as important as nitrogen purge for mini-splits. When I installed my mini-split, I did both vacuum test and N2 purge. But I question whether the vacuum is really needed. The reason is that the heat cycle of minisplits can go up to 400+ PSI which you can read in the manuals. With nitrogen, you can crank the pressure up to 400PSI and let it sit overnight if you want. You will see any leaks very easily. Plus, any leakpoints will be easy to see with soapy bubbles. On the other hand, a vacuum is only about -15PSI of pressure. That might not be enough to detect all leaks. Also we all know how volatile vacuum guage readings are....you might be seeing a leak, or you might be seeing pinholes in your hose, or you might be seeing plasticizer boiling off the seals, or maybe it's just your vacuum pump's oil vapor leaking back, etc. etc. and if it does leak, you can't use the soap test. So I would be pretty confident to install a mini-split with only doing N2 pressure testing.
Some people will say the vacuum is needed to evaporate moisture in the system. Technically pulling a vacuum will help to evaporate any liquid water in the system. But first of all, there shouldn't be moisture in a new mini-split. Second, multiple N2 purges will also purge out all the air and all the moisture in that air from the lines. And third, Pioneer's purging kit proves that mini-splits can be installed without pulling a vacuum and that purging out the air from the lines is sufficient. So if you are looking to cheap out, I would just get an N2 bottle and regulator which you can use for other things. If you are a DIYer or a homebrower you might already have a nitrogen bottle and regulator.
Second, I am of the mind that a vacuum pump is not as important as nitrogen purge for mini-splits. When I installed my mini-split, I did both vacuum test and N2 purge. But I question whether the vacuum is really needed. The reason is that the heat cycle of minisplits can go up to 400+ PSI which you can read in the manuals. With nitrogen, you can crank the pressure up to 400PSI and let it sit overnight if you want. You will see any leaks very easily. Plus, any leakpoints will be easy to see with soapy bubbles. On the other hand, a vacuum is only about -15PSI of pressure. That might not be enough to detect all leaks. Also we all know how volatile vacuum guage readings are....you might be seeing a leak, or you might be seeing pinholes in your hose, or you might be seeing plasticizer boiling off the seals, or maybe it's just your vacuum pump's oil vapor leaking back, etc. etc. and if it does leak, you can't use the soap test. So I would be pretty confident to install a mini-split with only doing N2 pressure testing.
Some people will say the vacuum is needed to evaporate moisture in the system. Technically pulling a vacuum will help to evaporate any liquid water in the system. But first of all, there shouldn't be moisture in a new mini-split. Second, multiple N2 purges will also purge out all the air and all the moisture in that air from the lines. And third, Pioneer's purging kit proves that mini-splits can be installed without pulling a vacuum and that purging out the air from the lines is sufficient. So if you are looking to cheap out, I would just get an N2 bottle and regulator which you can use for other things. If you are a DIYer or a homebrower you might already have a nitrogen bottle and regulator.
My Old Tools
Well-known member
I put in a 36k DIY MrCool about 4 years ago. So far, it has been perfect. It's in the shop and doesn't run 24/7. I bought mine from Ingram. Install is cut a 3' hole in the wall, run a 220v line, snake the line set to your spot, hang the indoor unit, attach lines and power, evacuate (in your case), release gas, fire it up.
pcmeiners
Well-known member
"Second, I am of the mind that a vacuum pump is not as important as nitrogen purge for mini-splits."
Both are important. Vacuum, from room pressure to a deep vacuum there are approx 25000 microns. Very reveling if you setup up a system where possible external leaks are basically eliminated; no hoses or manifold in play. With no external leaks you can tell if all moisture and unwanted gases are removed. Vacuum pulls gases/moisture out of tight areas and oil, nitrogen does not have that ability.
"you can crank the pressure up to 400PSI and let it sit overnight if you want. You will see any leaks very easily."
Large leaks, yes, small leaks no.
"Plus, any leak points will be easy to see with soapy bubbles."
True if the leaks are in an open area, not true if the leak is very small or in an inconspicuous or dark area.
"Also we all know how volatile vacuum gauge readings are....you might be seeing a leak, or you might be seeing pinholes in your hose, or you might be seeing plasticizer boiling off the seals, or maybe it's just your vacuum pump's oil vapor leaking back, etc. etc. and if it does leak, you can't use the soap test"
That is why you leave the manifold and hoses out of the leak testing phase, if you suspect either may be leaking, You should only have a core tool, followed by a micron gauge and a valve for testing; all 3 pieces need to be verified as leak free before testing the system . Hoses and manifold after that. Pressure gauge substituted for the micron gauge for pressure testing, if hoses or manifold leaks are suspected.
"But first of all, there shouldn't be moisture in a new mini-split. Second, multiple N2 purges will also purge out all the air and all the moisture in that air from the lines. And third, Pioneer's purging kit proves that mini-splits can be installed without pulling a vacuum and that purging out the air from the lines is sufficient."
Non pre-charged lines and evaporators have moisture and non refrigerant gas in them. Multiple purges will likely remove sufficient moisture, but no guarantee, and not all of it, and the dryers should remove what left, but what about non compressible nitrogen, especially nitrogen locked behind valves/other components. Pioneer's kit will remove most of the nitrogen and moisture, except those trapped in/behind components, but again no guarantee. Use it if your a gambler.
Both are important. Vacuum, from room pressure to a deep vacuum there are approx 25000 microns. Very reveling if you setup up a system where possible external leaks are basically eliminated; no hoses or manifold in play. With no external leaks you can tell if all moisture and unwanted gases are removed. Vacuum pulls gases/moisture out of tight areas and oil, nitrogen does not have that ability.
"you can crank the pressure up to 400PSI and let it sit overnight if you want. You will see any leaks very easily."
Large leaks, yes, small leaks no.
"Plus, any leak points will be easy to see with soapy bubbles."
True if the leaks are in an open area, not true if the leak is very small or in an inconspicuous or dark area.
"Also we all know how volatile vacuum gauge readings are....you might be seeing a leak, or you might be seeing pinholes in your hose, or you might be seeing plasticizer boiling off the seals, or maybe it's just your vacuum pump's oil vapor leaking back, etc. etc. and if it does leak, you can't use the soap test"
That is why you leave the manifold and hoses out of the leak testing phase, if you suspect either may be leaking, You should only have a core tool, followed by a micron gauge and a valve for testing; all 3 pieces need to be verified as leak free before testing the system . Hoses and manifold after that. Pressure gauge substituted for the micron gauge for pressure testing, if hoses or manifold leaks are suspected.
"But first of all, there shouldn't be moisture in a new mini-split. Second, multiple N2 purges will also purge out all the air and all the moisture in that air from the lines. And third, Pioneer's purging kit proves that mini-splits can be installed without pulling a vacuum and that purging out the air from the lines is sufficient."
Non pre-charged lines and evaporators have moisture and non refrigerant gas in them. Multiple purges will likely remove sufficient moisture, but no guarantee, and not all of it, and the dryers should remove what left, but what about non compressible nitrogen, especially nitrogen locked behind valves/other components. Pioneer's kit will remove most of the nitrogen and moisture, except those trapped in/behind components, but again no guarantee. Use it if your a gambler.
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Jrad235
Well-known member
Bought a 12k off-brand 20 SEER unit from eBay 3 years ago, installed without purging lines, it has been running well 24/7 since then. Just about every unit for sale has pre-charged lines and units that don't require professional install. I believe I had mine put in within a couple hours.
krazykevin76
Active member
Have a Pioneer 1 ton mini split I bought off Amazon 5 to 6 years ago. Has been running 24/7 here in SE Texas non stop in my man cave. We had record heat last year with about 10 days in a row of almost 110F heat. Kept my 10x20 room any temp I wanted, mostly 72 to 74F. No problems at all. Our winters are not bad, but we do get into the 20's at times. No issues with heat either. Very impressed and the prices are actually cheaper now.
I'm contemplating another mini split for a add on enclosed work area in my shop or going with a window style system with a heat pump. Still deciding!!!
I'm contemplating another mini split for a add on enclosed work area in my shop or going with a window style system with a heat pump. Still deciding!!!
Notgrownup
Well-known member
I opted to buy the Blueridge ones from Alpine. It’s almost DIY but the lineset. I called a HVAC guy to pull vacuum, cut, flare and pull vacuum because I wanted the correct length of lineset instead of having an excess roll of lineset outside. I covered mine with the proper lineset covers. 5 years now running 24/7. I wouldn’t hesitate to buy a DIY like Mr cool.
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itneverends
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I understand why nitrogen should be used for a positive pressure leak test and that a vacuum should be pulled to remove moisture from the system. It is very clear that these are standard procedures in the HVAC industry and is often referred to as the “right” way.
However, after watching many videos and reading countless comments of people not following the “right” way and just purging the lines with refrigerant, I start to question just exactly how critical is the “right” way in terms of long term service. Many will say their units are still going strong after 3. 7 , 10 years without nitrogen testing and pulling a vacuum.
Someone mention earlier Pioneers Kwick-e Vac. And that is R152a. It’s an HFC refrigerant that is compatible with the R410a that is commonly used in most diy pre charged units.
I think that if you are confident in your flares, use Nylog on them, and torque your nuts to specification, there should be no real need for the nitrogen test. Just send it with a refrigerant flush and you are good go.
Thoughts??
However, after watching many videos and reading countless comments of people not following the “right” way and just purging the lines with refrigerant, I start to question just exactly how critical is the “right” way in terms of long term service. Many will say their units are still going strong after 3. 7 , 10 years without nitrogen testing and pulling a vacuum.
Someone mention earlier Pioneers Kwick-e Vac. And that is R152a. It’s an HFC refrigerant that is compatible with the R410a that is commonly used in most diy pre charged units.
I think that if you are confident in your flares, use Nylog on them, and torque your nuts to specification, there should be no real need for the nitrogen test. Just send it with a refrigerant flush and you are good go.
Thoughts??
whateg01
Well-known member
Thoughts? I'm with pcmeiners on this
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itneverends
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I missed his post .
Thoughts on the likely hood of getting good service from a unit that was only purged with refrigerant.
If you maintain it is a gamble as @pcmeiners puts into context , then what odds would you give it?
whateg01
Well-known member
I look at it like seat belts. I know people who have never worn a seat belt and are still alive. I still wear mine because it improves the odds of me surviving a crash.