lostmymanual
Well-known member
DIY Welding pedestal. Less is more. I can tack virtially anything to the top of it and use it as a 3rd hand, leave it and use it for an outfeed/infeed, lower fully due to the hidden 1/4" plate on bottom and use it as a portable anvil stand, clamp stand, tube notching jig holder, etc, etc.
Material list:
(1) 2" OD square tube cut 34 inches
(1) 1-3/4" OD squre tube cut 36 inches
(2) pieces of 1/4" plate, about 8sq inches each
(1) Metal plow disc for base
(1) 1" Nut and matching eyebolt.
I used a MIG but any machine will do the job.
Welded plate on the bottom, where the plow disc would hide it. This gives me a solid base to drop the inside tube without destroying my concrete and a support so I can hammer on top. I used leftover materials, hence the square tube and 1/4" plate. Round tubing with no seam weld would be easier to work with so you do not have to notch the inner tube for the seam.
Started with some 1/4" plate drop leftover from making my welding table. In my case, someone was paid to cut the steel for me and I had to redo their work and shorten my table as a consequence. This left me with some excess to use for various projects as well as my own plasma cutter so I don't have to depend on anyone to cut plate ever again.
Cut the inner tube longer than the outer tube in my case. What you don't see is how I notched the OD of the inside tube to allow the tube to pass over the seam of the outside tube. I then notched the plow disc for the 2" tubing and welded it in place. Cut a hole on the outside tube and welded the nut for the locking eyebolt, then squared, tacked and welded the top plate on.
Metal prep for paint with wire wheel and flap discs. Valspar red industrial primer and safety blue spraypaint. The longer you let it dry, the less "persuasion" you have to do in order to get the inside tube to ride smoothly up and down. I rubbed a very light amount of grease on it to help.
Voila! Adjustable stand.
I've used the heck out of this thing for stuff you would not even imagine. It's almost always tipped and rolled like a bottle from one place to another when a project comes up in the shop. Wish I had thought of it much sooner.
Material list:
(1) 2" OD square tube cut 34 inches
(1) 1-3/4" OD squre tube cut 36 inches
(2) pieces of 1/4" plate, about 8sq inches each
(1) Metal plow disc for base
(1) 1" Nut and matching eyebolt.
I used a MIG but any machine will do the job.
Welded plate on the bottom, where the plow disc would hide it. This gives me a solid base to drop the inside tube without destroying my concrete and a support so I can hammer on top. I used leftover materials, hence the square tube and 1/4" plate. Round tubing with no seam weld would be easier to work with so you do not have to notch the inner tube for the seam.
Started with some 1/4" plate drop leftover from making my welding table. In my case, someone was paid to cut the steel for me and I had to redo their work and shorten my table as a consequence. This left me with some excess to use for various projects as well as my own plasma cutter so I don't have to depend on anyone to cut plate ever again.
Cut the inner tube longer than the outer tube in my case. What you don't see is how I notched the OD of the inside tube to allow the tube to pass over the seam of the outside tube. I then notched the plow disc for the 2" tubing and welded it in place. Cut a hole on the outside tube and welded the nut for the locking eyebolt, then squared, tacked and welded the top plate on.
Metal prep for paint with wire wheel and flap discs. Valspar red industrial primer and safety blue spraypaint. The longer you let it dry, the less "persuasion" you have to do in order to get the inside tube to ride smoothly up and down. I rubbed a very light amount of grease on it to help.
Voila! Adjustable stand.
I've used the heck out of this thing for stuff you would not even imagine. It's almost always tipped and rolled like a bottle from one place to another when a project comes up in the shop. Wish I had thought of it much sooner.
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