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DIY Rain Barrel System

markag

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Joined
May 21, 2013
Messages
66
Location
Metamora, IL
Hey Guys! It's been a while since I've posted, but I wanted to pick your brains to see if you had any information to help me with my rain barrel system that I am getting ready to build.

I picked up some free 55 gallon plastic water drums, 3 of them in total, and I'm hoping to get them setup over this long weekend to start collecting rain water that I can use for watering our garden and general outside use. The pictures are of the barrels loaded up in my truck, and then the spot in my back yard where I want to keep them. I can fit the barrels 3 wide in that section of fence between the house and the side run of the fence. And they are relatively close to that downspout that I can use as a fill source.

The barrels I got were perfect for this use, as they originally were filled with distilled water. I plan on rinsing them out, but I'm not too concerned about chemicals or issues from their previous contents. They are 2-3 years old already, and were just setting as trash, so I was able to pick them up for free (with permission).

I've been looking up information on rain water collection systems, and I think what I want to do is an upside down barrel style as a "closed system" where I wouldn't have to do any drilling in the barrel itself. The barrels already have the bungs on them, and I would like to flip them upside down and use the bungs and a bottom manifold to connect them together. It would act as both my fill port, as well as have a ball valve with garden hose adapter on it for the disbursement. I plan to use the 2nd port on the barrels to attach a vent tube that would extend inside the barrel and open up above the internal water level.

I purchased a downspout diverter that already has a course screen built into it for larger leaves and debris. I was planning on running a garden hose from the output of that diverter to the bottom manifold of the rain barrels to fill them from the bottom up. I would install the diverter slightly below the top of the barrels so that when the barrels fill up, the diverter hose will fill and stop flowing water into the barrels. The water would just spill down the downspout as normal.

The only thing that concerns me about a bottom fill setup like this is buildup of fine sediment over time. The way this will work is that the manifold will end up being the lowest point in the system. My plan is to use the bung ports to attach the manifold to avoid having to drill the barrels. With the bung side down, the manifold will be sitting below the bottom surface of the barrel, making it the lowest point in the system. A lot of the top fill systems I have seen seem to have the outlet port drilled into the side of the barrel a few inches up from the bottom. I was hoping to avoid drilling the barrels since I'm fairly new to this, and I may want to re-configure these once I learn more in the future.

My roof has shingles, and I know that there is a fine layer of gunk that builds up from the runoff of the roof in my gutters today. I know there is also organic matter from leaves and stuff that will make it through the course and even the fine screens no matter what I do. I would think that would eventually build up in the manifold. What I don't know is if it would actually end up being a problem or not. I purchased a union for each barrel so I can disconnect the manifold if I need to clean out the barrels or clean out the manifold. My hope is that might be a once a year type of thing.

As of now, I've purchased 3/4" schedule 40 PVC fittings and pipe for the manifold plumbing. I could tolerate some sediment and gunk, but not a lot with that pipe size.

My plan for this long term is to hook up a soaker hose in my garden and let open the outlet valve of the rain barrel to feed the soaker hose or drip system if I go that route. I would hate to be sending fine sediment into a soaker hose and clogg the thing up so it won't work properly. That sounds like a good way to waste some money.

The internet, in all of its vastness, doesn't seem to have a good source of consistent information out there on rain barrels. There are a million ways to do it, but not a lot of information out there on how to manage or prevent sediment in systems like this (at least that i could find).

The only other question I have is if I need to try and figure out a way to prevent mosquitoes from getting to the tiny bit of water that would be sitting in the diverter. With a bottom fill system, the diverter will be sitting full of water when the rain barrels are full. Even if they are partially full, the mosquitoes could in theory fly down the tube and get to wherever the water level is. I bought a roll of window screen, specifically the "fine insect" grade stuff, to strategically put in place to keep the bugs out. Do I need to try to set that up in my diverter so they can't get in from that access point, or is that not really a concern? I planned to use it on the vent pipes to keep them from getting in there, but I don't know how realistic is that they would fly in from the downspout.

Thanks for the help. I'll take pictures as I build this thing and post back with updates as I go.
 

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meboatermike

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Dec 28, 2014
Messages
104
Location
Southern Maine
You might get some fine debris in the manifold maybe but as you said you could probably just get away with cleaning it yearly (if you remember too :confused: ). I would think based at least on my gutters a lot of the debris from the shingles stays in the gutter until I clean them.

I would try to screen off the skeeters wherever possible or practical. The less places for them to breed the better for your outside area.
 

StreetGLi

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Joined
Jun 29, 2017
Messages
138
I use a topfill system and the first barrel pretty well acts as a sedement trap. The second barrel is super clean and I actually have the drain hose split with one hooked up to my PW for the final rinse of my car.

My drain comes off the eves trough and drains into a basket into the top of barrel 1. (The basket is set into the top of the barrel like a store bought rain barrel) I use fine screen in the basket to keep the Skeeters out, and occasionally I have to scoop out leaves and debris after heavy rains. The outlet from barrel one is set I to the bung at the top and goes into barrel 2. There is approx 1 inch drop from the outlet of barrel 1 to the inlet of barrel 2 to allow gravity to siphon water from the top of barrel 1 into barrel 2.

Before putting it out this year I added a spigot to barrel 1 approx 3 inches up in the event the rain is minimal and I can't wait for both barrels to fill to water the veggies. It lets the water out but doesn't seem to disturb the sediment in the bottom of barrel 1.

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StreetGLi

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Jun 29, 2017
Messages
138
Also, If you check out the British car detailing forums, they're big on them as they are often under water conservation restrictions and like the ultra soft rain water.

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MBfreak

MEMBER EMERITUS
Joined
Dec 10, 2010
Messages
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Location
Linkoping , Sweden
Insects are tricky.
Worked in a power station in a desert climate. The basement had an advanced fire detection system. Some sensors were optical, and the detection chamber had an ultrafine screen, large enough for smoke to pass thru, but keep even the smallest bugs out.
For a while.
After some weeks in service we had a shutdown, the water deluge system flooded the basement. Happiness all over!
Tripped by optical smoke detector. WTF, We found small bugs inside, far too big to enter thru the screen.
We called in specialists who explained that the bugs had VERY small airborne eggs with a coating that sustained the hatched bug for some days. The eggs were small enough to pass the screen. Once hatched the bugs were trapped.
So keeping insects out of your water system may be difficult.
Is it possible to use some chemical stuff?

Ola
 

Bretny

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Jul 31, 2017
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3,918
Location
Dutchess county NY
Build your self a "first flush system". They do work but a shingle roof is the worst type of roof to catch water off of. You will get junk in the water no matter how to screen it.

If you could build a 5gal bucket filter you may have a better chance. 5gal bucket filled with cource sand and small gravel to catch what you can.
 

cvairwerks

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Aug 12, 2016
Messages
7,182
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Within hearing distance of Texas Motor Speedway
I've seen some downspout adapters that are in a "T" shape, with a drip leg and a tiny, as in #50 or so hole in the end cap. The "T" is set so that the sideways leg feeds the tanks and the bottom leg is the trash catcher. The end cap is a screw in type to allow cleaning.

This is pretty close: http://abundantdesigniowa.blogspot.com/p/water-managment.html

Scroll down to the sediment trap photo.
 
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markag

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Joined
May 21, 2013
Messages
66
Location
Metamora, IL
I worked in the barrels today before the rain forced me to stop.

I knocked out the center of the buttress bungs for each barrel and threaded in a 3/4 NPT adapter backwards to attach the internal vent tube to. I plan to use silicone caulk in the threads to create a seal since I don't think the NPT threads will seal on their own backwards, even with tape.

I also started the construction of the manifold connection to the barrels. I have 2" male NPT adapters to thread into the fine thread bung ports on the barrels. I've inserted an adapter to go down to 3/4 NPT and screwed in a threaded elbow into that. On the elbows, I've added an extension tube, and a union onto each tube so I can easily disconnect the manifold from the barrels for service and cleaning.

More to come once the weather starts cooperating again.

I picked up the downspout diverter in the attached picture. I went with this one over others because it has a coarse filter built in. It is supposed to collect the water from the flow around the edges of the downspout and let the large debris through. Once the barrel system fills with water, it should overflow and allow the water to go back down the downspout as normal.

I also did a rain test with a 5 gallon bucket. I put it under my downspout that I plan to use, and it filled with water in about 20 seconds. It was a pretty heavy rain, but this just goes to show that there is a ton of water that can be collected. I shouldn't have any problem filling 165 gallons of water.
 

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markag

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Location
Metamora, IL
It was hot out, but I got the barrels in place. 2 of the three are hooked up. The white one is waiting on a replacement bung because I've of them has the wrong threads. Once that is in, I'll get that one tired in fully.

I removed my mulch and leveled the ground where these were going to go. Then I used 12x12 patio stones to make a base for cinder blocks. Then stacked up the cinder blocks and barrels.

Everything came together nicely, and I ran a hose up in my gutters to test fill them with some water for a basic leak test. I've got mosquito netting covering the vent ports, and I cut a small piece to put in the garden hose diverter connection, so I've got a completely sealed connection.

I did end up buying some 4" PVC components to make a first flush system. I'm going to work on that next. As it stands now, it's ready for some rain to see how well it works.
 

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CJ7VFR

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Jan 13, 2015
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Central New Jersey
Is that going to fill the barrels, if the inlet for the barrels, which is coming from the outlet of the downspout, is at the bottom of the barrels and not the top?

Every rain barrel system I have ever seen had the inlet for the water at or near the top of barrel, and about even with the outlet from the downspout. They have them that way so that once the water in the barrel was filled up any other water coming down the downspout would continue down the downspout and out the bottom of the pipe into the yard.

Curious how your setup will actually work.

Jim
 

dalehsc

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Sep 7, 2013
Messages
227
Location
New Brunswick Canada
It was hot out, but I got the barrels in place. 2 of the three are hooked up. The white one is waiting on a replacement bung because I've of them has the wrong threads. Once that is in, I'll get that one tired in fully.

I removed my mulch and leveled the ground where these were going to go. Then I used 12x12 patio stones to make a base for cinder blocks. Then stacked up the cinder blocks and barrels.

Everything came together nicely, and I ran a hose up in my gutters to test fill them with some water for a basic leak test. I've got mosquito netting covering the vent ports, and I cut a small piece to put in the garden hose diverter connection, so I've got a completely sealed connection.

I did end up buying some 4" PVC components to make a first flush system. I'm going to work on that next. As it stands now, it's ready for some rain to see how well it works.

Am I out in left field here? How does the air vent out of the barrels? I have to say,I've never seen this set up before.
 
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markag

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May 21, 2013
Messages
66
Location
Metamora, IL
The water always finds the lowest point. As long as the level of the water is below the downspout diverter, the water will fill the barrels. Once it reaches the same height as the diverter, then no more water transfers and the water from the gutters overflows past the diverter and runs out the bottom of the downspout and away from the house. I don't need a separate overflow because the downspout acts as the overflow.

My system was modeled after the one in this YouTube video. The attached picture shows how the internal vent tube works. Essentially I ran a tube the full height of the barrels in the inside so that the top of it is always above the water level. As the water rises, it pushes the air down the tube and out the bottom of the barrel. It's like a snorkel.4c8cbdad5d9b3596f09bb52253b60269.jpg702f60912436b9c66da8246c961fb3d5.jpg

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dalehsc

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The water always finds the lowest point. As long as the level of the water is below the downspout diverter, the water will fill the barrels. Once it reaches the same height as the diverter, then no more water transfers and the water from the gutters overflows past the diverter and runs out the bottom of the downspout and away from the house. I don't need a separate overflow because the downspout acts as the overflow.

My system was modeled after the one in this YouTube video. The attached picture shows how the internal vent tube works. Essentially I ran a tube the full height of the barrels in the inside so that the top of it is always above the water level. As the water rises, it pushes the air down the tube and out the bottom of the barrel. It's like a snorkel.4c8cbdad5d9b3596f09bb52253b60269.jpg702f60912436b9c66da8246c961fb3d5.jpg

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That makes sense,thanks. Looks like a good design. Keep us updated. I have an old metal barrel that my Father-in-law soldered a piece of copper pipe with a spigot. I't old & heavy,works great. We also bought a plastic one,branded "Mark's Choice". It's good too
 
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drmarkr

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Tucson
Tucson here. I have a 2800 gal, two 865 gal, and two 440 gal tanks that get water off the 2800 sq ft of roof on my shop and rv carport. I use it for plant irrigation. Variably stay full, dependent on rainfall...
 

Farmall450

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Dec 23, 2011
Messages
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Location
Marengo, Illinois
Am I out in left field here? How does the air vent out of the barrels? I have to say,I've never seen this set up before.

That was my concern as well -- glad to see OP has it all figured out. I bet it takes quite a few rains through that hose to fill those!
 
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markag

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Location
Metamora, IL
I bet it takes quite a few rains through that hose to fill those!

My county has a system that allows you to take measurements of your property based off of satellite imagery. Based on that system, I've measured out that I have about 925 sq ft of roof that would feed to that particular downspout.

I've read that 1" of rainfall over 1000 sq ft produces about 623 gallons of water. It depends on how much actually gets diverted into the barrels, but a moderate rain should easily fill these things.

I even did a test with a 5 gallon bucket during our last rainfall. It was a fairly heavy rain, but not unusually heavy. I put the bucket under the downspout I intended to use for the rain barrels, and it filled the bucket to overflowing in about 20 seconds.

I can see the garden hose being a restriction for the fill. If that proves to be a problem, I can always hard pipe it over with larger diameter supply lines.
 

zak77

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Sep 18, 2014
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Monson, MA
You'll be surprised how fast you go through 150 gallons of water. I have a 275 gallon tote next to my house that's fed off the gutter, i then connect that to 3 50 gallon plastic barrels next to my garden which feeds soaker hoses. We've had so much rain this spring and into summer i rarely had to use the irrigation system but now that summer's here, i almost ran out of water. Just about everything was empty till the rains hit this weekend and filled it all up. I just went the simple route of connecting the plastic barrels together with sections of garden hose. Just regular window screen over any openings to keep bugs out. Works good.
 
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markag

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Metamora, IL
I added a DIY first flush to my system to help catch debris and junk from the roof before it gets to the barrels. I made the inlet and outlet ports on the system be at the same height as the downspout diverter. In theory, it should fill up the 4" PVC tube with the first run-off of the roof, and then once it fills up, that lower tube gets blocked off and the "clean" water overflows down into the tank.

I will eventually put a small hole in the threaded cap at the bottom of the first flush so that it can drain itself empty once the rain stops. For right now, I just have it loosely threaded in so it will leak water out through the threads. I'm hoping that will also allow for the water to have some separation from the screen I put in the output end of the first flush to keep bugs our of the tanks. I would like to have an air gap between the bug screen and where the water is to keep mosquitoes from laying eggs through the screen.
 

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markag

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Metamora, IL
I did some testing with the first flush system, and I wasn't too happy with the performance of it. I knew we were supposed to get some rain last night, so I removed it and went back to a straight hose from the diverter into the manifold. I'll need to play with it some more. I wasn't getting much flow out of it, and was getting a lot of water bypassing the diverter. I think it is the way I've setup the output side, the water level has to raise up inside the 2" to 3/4" adapter, and that was causing it to slow down the flow. I'm thinking I might put a 2" elbow and have that flow down to the hose adapter and try that. Then water won't have to go back uphill at all.

The storms that were predicted started rolling through about the time I went to bed. It looked like it was one small pocket of rain on the radar. When I woke up this morning, I found all 3 barrels were about half full. That would be roughly 75 gallons of water collected overnight. The National Weather Service 24 hour rainfall totals indicate 0.24" - 0.33" rainfall in my area last night. It just goes to show how much water is available to collect over a large enough area.

In the attached picture, you can see the water level in the white barrel. It's right there just about at the middle of the barrel. I hooked a hose and grabbed the first sprinkler I could find just to see what it would do. The bottom of the barrels are roughly 16-20" above the level of the garden. I was able to get some moderate spray from the sprinkler even from nearly zero water pressure. When we do our new garden boxes next year, the plan is to go with some drip lines, which should work pretty well.
 

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akpingel

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Huntersville NC
I would call that first run a success. I am curious what you will find with the first flush system when you get it working well. I agree the elevations probably has something to do with it but I would also maybe want it tight and then you drain it periodically?
 
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markag

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Metamora, IL
I would call that first run a success. I am curious what you will find with the first flush system when you get it working well. I agree the elevations probably has something to do with it but I would also maybe want it tight and then you drain it periodically?

What I was doing with my original setup was essentially holding a horizontal plane with my diverter, FF inlet and FF outlet. The water seemed to fill the first flush system at a normal rate, but then as the system filled up, the water level would have to raise to be essentially equal to the inlet water level. Water likes to flow downhill, so I think that bringing the level up to the inlet level was causing my flow rate to slow down, and that slower flow was causing the diverter to fill up and allowing the water to overflow down the downspout instead of into my barrels.

I'm thinking that if I go with something like the 3rd image, it will allow the water to always be flowing downhill, which should help the flow rate.

This doesn't take into account the amount of water lost from the leaks. Ideally, the leak rate of the first flush should be pretty low. You want just enough that it will empty itself out once the rain stops, but not so much that it has a measurable impact on the amount of water you get out of the system. In my tests, It seemed like I was leaking quite a bit, which was probably also contributing to my issues. I could also be completely off base. I'm not a plumbing expert or drainage expert.

In the attached images:
1 - Initial state while filling
2 - Initial state, once full and transferring water to outlet
3 - Future state concept - change outlet plumbing to avoid a step back up to the outlet hose fitting.
 

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Farmall450

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My county has a system that allows you to take measurements of your property based off of satellite imagery. Based on that system, I've measured out that I have about 925 sq ft of roof that would feed to that particular downspout.

I've read that 1" of rainfall over 1000 sq ft produces about 623 gallons of water. It depends on how much actually gets diverted into the barrels, but a moderate rain should easily fill these things.

I even did a test with a 5 gallon bucket during our last rainfall. It was a fairly heavy rain, but not unusually heavy. I put the bucket under the downspout I intended to use for the rain barrels, and it filled the bucket to overflowing in about 20 seconds.

I can see the garden hose being a restriction for the fill. If that proves to be a problem, I can always hard pipe it over with larger diameter supply lines.

I don't doubt the supply being plenty ample; I do however doubt the (5/8) hose. :thumbup:
 
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markag

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May 21, 2013
Messages
66
Location
Metamora, IL
I don't doubt the supply being plenty ample; I do however doubt the (5/8) hose. [emoji106]
I seem to agree. I was cleaning out my gutters to evening, and spraying the hose directly into the gutters produced more water than what could transfer into the tanks. I was getting a lot of overflow down the downspout.

I might have to work on a larger diameter supply line.

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Plump

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Dec 22, 2009
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537
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SE Wisconsin
I use a flexible downspout line from my 4" gutter and even that struggles to keep up sometimes. I can't see that a garden hose could handle anything but the lightest rains for supply line.

downspout.jpg

Great set up and will keep watching the thread! Thanks.
 

CJ7VFR

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Jan 13, 2015
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Location
Central New Jersey
Does water pressure come into the equation once the barrels have some water in them?

By that I mean, with water in the barrels, the water pressure is pressing down on the inlet lines that are at the base of the barrels, and in turn, are applying pressure to the water coming in from the hose at the diverter.

Will the water pressure inside the barrels be such that it wants to push back against the amount of water coming in from the hose, and will only allow the barrels to fill up to a certain point, versus if the water inlet was at the top of the barrel where there is no water pressure to deal with?

Curious.

Jim
 
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