Between 705 & 1200 SQ/FT DIY Shop

[Jeff Ivers]

When I installed my new Modine heater, I had to take down one of my 8' fluorescent fixtures and replace it with a 4'. Of course the removed fixture was laying in the work bay more or less in the way. The last time one of my fluorescent ballasts went out, I ordered enough materials to convert several fixtures to LED. My plan was to continue to use the fluorescents until the ballasts went and then convert them. I have gone through quite a migration on shop lighting - 4' fluorescent to 8' T-12 Fluorescent to 8' T-8 fluorescent and then to 8' Led conversions using 4 4' bulbs per fixture.

Since that fixture laying on the floor was bugging me, I decided to drag out my conversion bits and convert that light to be placed in the barn and then convert another light on the ceiling.

So, i drug out the 2 kits of parts and the case of 10 LED bulbs and began. That is when I ran into the first hiccup. When I started taking bulbs out of the case that had been in storage for about a year and showed no sign of damage, I discovered 2 crushed bulbs. Bummer! No way to collect from the shipper or the seller at this point. Fortunately, I only needed 8 bulbs.

I converted the first fixture and took it down to the barn to install later and then started converting the fixture on the ceiling.

Three years ago, I converted the fixture on the left and decided I would now convert the fixture on the right. Second hiccup - couldn't get the drill bit to bite when trying to drill starter holes in the left side of the right fixture. Could have taken the fixture down and done the work on my new bench, but (in true GJ fashion) decided I would go get one of those right angle adapters for my drill/driver. Had to make a trip to pick up supplies for the barn installation anyway. So, I go get the right angle adapter and the desired size of hex drive drill bit to make sure I have a good sharp bit and then get back to the task. Any guesses how many trips up and down the ladder - because the right angle adapter did not seem to have any mechanism for gripping the hex drive bit which, of course, had an aluminum drive end!

I eventually prevailed and significantly brightened up that part of the shop. Then it was off to the barn. I have gone through quite a migration on lighting there also. Started with those porcelain top hat type shades with 150 watt bulbs - 4 fixtures in a 1200 sq ft barn. Eventually, I replaced the 150 watt bulbs with a pair of 100 watt LED equivalents in each fixture.

I have sort of given up on the "proper looking fixtures" by adding the LED strip, but I think this shows how much more light the LED strip gives off compared to the 2 LED bulb "tophat".

 

[Jeff Ivers]

Since I just used up my LED strip lighting conversion kits, I did an inventory of how many lights I have - T8, T12, LED and determined I have 8 more fixtures that I will eventually want to convert. So, I decided to order some materials to have on hand for when I need them. The lighting level is pretty good in both the barn and shop at this time, so, again, I intend to wait till ballasts fail and then do the LED conversions.



Please excuse the blurry pic, but I never know they are blurry until I upload to my computer. The conversion kits I am using were purchased from ProLighting for $12 each (exact same kit from same vendor purchased thru Amazon is $19.95) which is everything except bulbs needed to convert an 8' fixture to 4 4' LED. Obviously, when converting this way, new tombstones are placed in the middle of the fixture as shown.

On my most recent conversions, I was using Sunco bulbs which measure 47 3/16 " end to end, not counting the pins. As the above pictures show, the middle tombstones are as close together as possible and the end tombstones are at the very end of the fixtures. So, when shopping for new bulbs, I was extremely frustrated to find almost everything advertised as 48" with no specifics about actual body length.

Why do vendors not provide all the info one needs to make an informed decision? I think I have finally located the same Sunco bulbs in a 30 pack. My bulb choice is non-shunted, single end, 5000K frosted, 2200 lumen. The nice part about this choice is that all the wiring is done in the center of the fixture - the end tombstones are simply there to hold that end of the bulbs up.

All of my 8' fixtures were bought at different times, some T8, and some T12. I believe I have at least 3 different styles of fixtures. The Pro Lighting conversion kits are working fine on all of them.

Through my shop lighting migration, I have discovered:
1 - I really don't like hanging fixtures - they collect too much dust
2 - I really do not like 8' long bulbs - they are a total pain to store and to dispose of burned out bulbs.

 

[Jeff Ivers]

Been working on my latest project.


Years ago, I acquired a plastic battery storage case that I kept in a desk drawer with replacement batteries. As the number of battery powered items has increased, the box became inadequate - and then I started switching to Lithium Ion rechargeables, which typically come with a charger. Then I started metal detecting and most of the equipment is battery powered. The corner of my dresser became a cluttered charging station. For some time, I have wanted to combine battery storage, charging stations and get somewhat organized. Spent some time gluing up a bunch of scrap wood from pallets and such and then proceeded to layout a battery storage drawer. Dimensions are 14'' by 19.5". I am still working on the design of the case which will have 2 different levels to house charging hub, chargers, cell phone, Kindle, MD earphones, etc. This is probably the hardest thing I have tried to design. More later.

 

[Jeff Ivers]

After 2 coats of BLO, stain, and a coat of poly, the drawer is almost done. Still debating a 2nd or 3rd coat of poly, but think I might screw it up with between coat sandings. The drawer was made totally from recycled material. After taking inventory, I decided I did not have enough scrap of appropriate dimensions to construct a case - so, off to that Blue store. Holy Moly! over $100 for a 8' 1x8 red oak and a 3' project plank (which was cheaper then good plywood).

 

[Prospecter]

Looking good. A lotta work went into that project.

 

[Jeff Ivers]

I needed to make some stopped dados for the front piece of the cabinet. I decided to try to do this on the router table. With my tablesaw miter gauge, a stop block, the work piece firmly clamped to the miter gauge and a new 1/4 inch veining bit, I was ready to go.



I can live with that.

 

[Prospecter]

I needed to make some stopped dados for the front piece of the cabinet. I decided to try to do this on the router table. With my tablesaw miter gauge, a stop block, the work piece firmly clamped to the miter gauge and a new 1/4 inch veining bit, I was ready to go.



I can live with that.

That's a nice clean router table set up. I like it!

 

[Jeff Ivers]

That's a nice clean router table set up. I like it!

Thank you Prospecter! That is quite a reorg and expansion you have underway!

 

[Prospecter]

Thank you. I was back at it today. The reorganization was kind of forced by the garage addition, but I am enjoying the time.

 

[Jeff Ivers]

I am continuing my charger dock project.


This shows all the parts cut and stacked together the way they will be assembled.


First assembly step was to glue and nail together the rear corners.


Checked the fit of the bottom panel.

Next I used a couple of spacer blocks to maintain the thickness of the eventual recess for the charger hub, placed the cross piece in place, slid the drawer and slides assembly in place to check alignment, then I clamped the cross piece, removed the drawer, and screwed the cross piece into place.

Next I flipped the side assembly upside down and attached the front rail and connected the top of the drawer compartment to the cross piece. After that, I flipped the assembly over again, screwed the top piece to the sides, and applied a coat of poly to what will be the inside of the drawer compartment.

 

[Jeff Ivers]

Continuing the charger dock project after the poly dried:


When designing this, I realized the only way I would be able to install the drawer was from the bottom with the bottom panel removed. So, installing the drawer was the next step. The yardstick is being used as a spacer.


With the drawer installed, I could install the drawer front and then apply a coat of poly to the viewable areas of the project.

While the poly dried, I cut out my headphone stand. This is made from a piece of bradford pear I cutdown a few years ago. It had some "eaten" places on what will be the rear (unseen) that required filler and it has a couple of cracks. I chose it because it was a full 1" thick and - free.

Usually I would attach the bottom to such a project with glue and brads. Since I want to leave access should I have a drawer slide problem, I screwed the bottom on and added some felt "feet" at the corners.

 

[Prospecter]

Right sized wood that is on hand and free is good wood. That it is an interesting wood like Bradford Pear that you salvaged is super!

 

[Jeff Ivers]

One of the compromises on my design necessitated placing the chargers in place before attaching the final cross bar to the top tray - so I moved inside for the final assembly step.


Here is the dock in place and loaded with chargers, headphones, Kindle, phone, hub,and key tray.


And here is the battery drawer, at least partially stocked. The batteries in the top tray will be moved here after I device some isolation holders. I also want to make some foam dividers to place in sections where I only have a few batteries to keep them from sliding around.

In the mean time, I had to turn my attention to the edger rejuvenation and a storm downed partial tree.

 

[RickP]

Wow, that is some next-level organization!
I like how you incorporated a built-in drawer.
And the woodworking/staining looks really good.

 

[Jeff Ivers]

Wow, that is some next-level organization!
I like how you incorporated a built-in drawer.
And the woodworking/staining looks really good.

Thank you, RickP. Not furniture grade construction like some on this forum, but the functionality suits me.

 

[Prospecter]

Was just thinking it must be getting nice enough out your way to get outside?

 

[Jeff Ivers]

Was just thinking it must be getting nice enough out your way to get outside?

That it is. Rolled the planer and tablesaw outside for most the work on this project. Makes dust control so much easier. Today is the calmest day we have had in several weeks, so I spent the early morning burning brush from previous storm damage.

 

[Prospecter]

I am right there with you. I love moving outside, or even just being able to leave all the doors and windows open. Both for dust suppression, and just because it is so nice.

 

[Jeff Ivers]

Last fall, I worked on rejuvenating my 35 year old edger. During the process, I had to shorten the adjustment cable that controls how deep the blade goes. Last week, I got the edger out to use it for the first time this year. Started right up and I went about 15 feet and the shortened cable came apart.


I had shortened it by cutting the cable and inserting the two ends through a crimp connector.

Next, I tried using a cable clamp. I tried first with the sheathing in place and then with the sheathing removed. Neither worked and I did not have enough cable to try folding back on itself. So, it was off to the web to see if I could find something that might work.


The original cable passed through a guide on the bottom rear of the deck. The molded ends on the sheathing would not fit through the guide, so I ditched it and used some cable ties to hold a split piece of hose on the back of the deck to prevent wear on the new cable. And, of course, when all was in place, the cable was about an inch too short, so I added an extender to the top end of the cable. It will get tried out in the next week some time.

I had some storm damage that needed attention. My chainsaw is being tempermental again and I had been thinking about buying a cordless. Even though I have a whole suite of Dewalt battery tools, I was not impressed with their chainsaw. So, after some shopping, I came home with an EGO. Of course, that meant I needed a place for another charger. So, I modified my charger station.

 

[Prospecter]

I have several EGO tools and really like them. I think cordless is a good way to go unless doing lots of cutting on a regular basis. Gas saws want to be run regularly.

 

[Jeff Ivers]

The last large vehicle I owned and then traded on my 2011 Silverado was an E150 conversion van. My recollection is that I had to change brake pads on that van about every 35,000 miles and replaced rotors more than once. A couple of years ago, it was suggested to me that I might be about due replacement brake pads on the Silverado, so I bought a set, but when I checked I had gobs of pad left. So, with over 86,000 miles on the Silverado now and with it being due an oil change, I spent time this past week picking up and rearranging the shop so I could get the Silverado in to work on. Changed the oil, put in a new air filter, and then, today, I removed the left front wheel, unbolted the caliper, and removed both front pads. Measured the usable remaining pad thickness at 5/16" compared to the 3/8" on the brand new set. Looks like I will be able to go just a few more miles without those new pads!

 

[Jeff Ivers]

This is the cleanest the shop has been in a while - enough room to get the pickup in for an oil change to be followed by the 400 hour service on the Kubota.

Got the oil changed and installed a new air cleaner. My Silverado is a 2011 with 86,000 miles. A couple of weeks ago I started experiencing a weird starting issue. When I go out to start the truck after it has set over night in the garage, the engine starts, but appears to miss and not maintain the 500 rpm idle until I have blipped the throttle. If I don't blip, the engine dies. Once it is running, the idle smooths out and there are no issues for the rest of the day - until it has sat for several hours again. I had decided it was time to have the air conditioning checked, the fuel system serviced, the coolant flushed, the brake system flushed, and the transmission serviced. So last week, I took the truck in to the dealership for that service. I did not tell them about the starting issue, thinking they would put a code reader on the vehicle and let me know if something else needed service. They advised me there were no codes. The starting issue seems to be getting worse. Any ideas on how to diagnose this? I have done some google searches and not come up with anything definitive.

 

[Jeff Ivers]

I am still having the Silverado starting issue after it has sat overnight. I bought a new code reader and put on it and verified no codes. I also viewed the live data feed as I started it, but do not have enough knowledge to know what to look for. After pondering the issue, I am suspicious I have one or more injectors failing and allowing the pressure to bleed off overnight. Thoughts?

Next it was time for the 400 hour service on the Kubota. That service calls for replacing both fuel filters. The last time I went through that process, I fought the rear filter replacement for several hours. So, did some research and off to the parts store for some new tools to add to the stockpile.



Next, I had to get access to the filter.

Had to remove the rear wheels, jack the back end way up and ...

Remove this guard panel. One of the reasons I had to remove both rear wheels is the bolts holding this panel on were so tight I could not break them loose without using an impact wrench. With all the prep work and new tools, it took about 15 minutes to change the filter.

Mean while, a while back I started the process of cleaning my tools and tool chests of accumulated dust and re-integrating the tools that I had been carrying with me to do volunteer home repairs, since I have stopped participating in that. I had come to the realization that some how, all the tools that I wanted to re-integrate were simply not going to fit. Did some shopping and looking at the price of tool chests and what would fit with what I already had, etc. I decided if I replaced one of my top boxes with a new model that is deeper, I would gain some storage space. I also realized that I had some wasted space in some of my drawers because the items stored did not need the full depth of the drawers. I am a firm believer that cubic inches of storage space is a bogus number. Square inches rules when it come to easy access!

So, I acquired the new box and set about trying to re-integrate and re-organize. I feel like I have been playing Tetris blindfolded with my hands tied behind my back! AGH! Of course this has led to additional projects of making storage racks, etc. More later - got to order some more drawer liner.

 

[Jeff Ivers]

This is my new top box top compartment organization. Picture doesn't show it well, but I tapped a remaining piece of pallet oak to create a slanted base to hold my crows foot selection.


I went from a shallow drawer to a deeper one for my pliers and plier-like tools due to the volume, Fabricated two racks from linen shelving and spice rack like others have done. Still want to come up with another rack or two to address the items laying flat.

This is one of my most problematic drawers. I have improved it some with another "pliers" rack.I wish I could come up with a way to store the 3 welding clamps that are laying flat so they take up less footprint. Still way too much wasted space in this drawer.

 

[Prospecter]

This is my new top box top compartment organization. Picture doesn't show it well, but I tapped a remaining piece of pallet oak to create a slanted base to hold my crows foot selection.


I went from a shallow drawer to a deeper one for my pliers and plier-like tools due to the volume, Fabricated two racks from linen shelving and spice rack like others have done. Still want to come up with another rack or two to address the items laying flat.

This is one of my most problematic drawers. I have improved it some with another "pliers" rack.I wish I could come up with a way to store the 3 welding clamps that are laying flat so they take up less footprint. Still way too much wasted space in this drawer.

Nice set up. That blue liner makes the tools easy to see.

 

[Jeff Ivers]

Nice set up. That blue liner makes the tools easy to see.

Thank you. I have had black liner for years. Started with a real thin flat liner that did a good job of protecting the drawer, but allowed the tools to slide. Then I added a layer of pebbly surface that did a good job of preventing sliding, but allowed dust through the holes. When I ordered the new box, I went online and found this blue liner and thought it might be better than the black pebbly with holes, so I ordered 2 rolls. When I got into it, I really liked it and have now ordered 3 more rolls. 16 drawers done and 22 to go to get everything cleaned and reorganized.

 

[Jayman17]

Have you thought about storing those welding clamps on a peg or nail on a wall somewhere? Those do waste a lot of valuable drawer space.

 

[Jeff Ivers]

Have you thought about storing those welding clamps on a peg or nail on a wall somewhere? Those do waste a lot of valuable drawer space.

Absolutely have considered that - but can't find enough room on the walls. Plus, it helps me to have all like items in the same space.

 

[rharman]

Have you thought about storing those welding clamps on a peg or nail on a wall somewhere? Those do waste a lot of valuable drawer space.

Absolutely have considered that - but can't find enough room on the walls. Plus, it helps me to have all like items in the same space.

That drawer looks pretty deep. What about some type of horizontal rack? Make/Buy/Adapt perhaps?

 

[Jeff Ivers]

That drawer looks pretty deep. What about some type of horizontal rack? Make/Buy/Adapt perhaps?

Good idea.

This is the best I could come up with. Unfortunately, no matter how I organized the drawer, I could not stack all 3 clamps and fully utilize the rest of the space.

This is the best I could come up with. Still more wasted space than I would like.

 

[Jayman17]

Maybe make a rack that holds them vertical with the longest vice grip next to the back of that drawer so it doesn't interfere with the adjacent tools?

 

[Jeff Ivers]

Maybe make a rack that holds them vertical with the longest vice grip next to the back of that drawer so it doesn't interfere with the adjacent tools?

Good idea, but not possible. None of my available drawers is deep enough.

 

[zanyad]

What about making hinged leaves that store at an angle but can flip up for access?

 

[rharman]

What about making hinged leaves that store at an angle but can flip up for access?

That was my next thought as well. Like a cantilever.

Honestly though, some stuff just is not amenable to drawer storage - no matter now much we want it to be.

 

[Jeff Ivers]

That was my next thought as well. Like a cantilever.

Honestly though, some stuff just is not amenable to drawer storage - no matter now much we want it to be.

That is certainly one way to look at it - just throw that item in a corner somewhere! The reality is that I used to have my set of 3 welding (including 2 shown) clamps in the vinyl "tool roll" they came in underneath some other tools inside my welding cart. At 72 yoa, I am finding myself sometimes forgetting what tools I have unless they are grouped together and labeled - thus the priority to group my welding clamps in a single drawer.

When making the rack, I considered trying to make hinged shelves or angling the shelves. I rejected both ideas as the drawer is 3.5" deep, the tools needed about 2.75" if stacked on top of each other, leaving only .25 inch for the thickness of the shelves. No room for angled shelves or hinging.

I am down to 4 drawers left to clean, replace matting in, and re-organize out of 37 drawers. Hope to finish tonight or tomorrow. If I finish with no items left over, I will consider the task a win!

 

[Jagmandave]

What are the black round things in the drawer with the welding clamps?

 

[Jeff Ivers]

What are the black round things in the drawer with the welding clamps?

Dies for a bead roller.

 

[rharman]

That is certainly one way to look at it - just throw that item in a corner somewhere! The reality is that I used to have my set of 3 welding (including 2 shown) clamps in the vinyl "tool roll" they came in underneath some other tools inside my welding cart. At 72 yoa, I am finding myself sometimes forgetting what tools I have unless they are grouped together and labeled - thus the priority to group my welding clamps in a single drawer.

When making the rack, I considered trying to make hinged shelves or angling the shelves. I rejected both ideas as the drawer is 3.5" deep, the tools needed about 2.75" if stacked on top of each other, leaving only .25 inch for the thickness of the shelves. No room for angled shelves or hinging.

I am down to 4 drawers left to clean, replace matting in, and re-organize out of 29 drawers. Hope to finish tonight or tomorrow. If I finish with no items left over, I will consider the task a win!

I was imagining 1/8" hardboard shelves hinged at the back. Just random thoughts.

 

[Prospecter]

That is certainly one way to look at it - just throw that item in a corner somewhere! The reality is that I used to have my set of 3 welding (including 2 shown) clamps in the vinyl "tool roll" they came in underneath some other tools inside my welding cart. At 72 yoa, I am finding myself sometimes forgetting what tools I have unless they are grouped together and labeled - thus the priority to group my welding clamps in a single drawer.

When making the rack, I considered trying to make hinged shelves or angling the shelves. I rejected both ideas as the drawer is 3.5" deep, the tools needed about 2.75" if stacked on top of each other, leaving only .25 inch for the thickness of the shelves. No room for angled shelves or hinging.

I am down to 4 drawers left to clean, replace matting in, and re-organize out of 37 drawers. Hope to finish tonight or tomorrow. If I finish with no items left over, I will consider the task a win!

Good progress, Jeff!

 

[Jeff Ivers]

A couple of days ago, out of frustration with trying to find suitable organization bins at the local suppliers, I made an order for a few Shaller bins to help me finish my toolbox reorg. As of today, I finished taking all tools out of all 37 drawers (40 if you count the 3 in the side cabinet), re-lining the drawers, wiping down and reorging all tools. I still have a few gaps in a couple of drawers, but when the Shaller bins arrive, I will fill those gaps. I did toss a few items during the process - discovered I still had an auxiliary blade guard for the radial arm saw I sold about 4 years ago! I won't show pics of all drawers, though I took them and put them on file for insurance purposes.

I will use anything that works to help organize drawers that have items I use regularly.

This is one of the pliers racks I made.

Metric wrenches. One of these days, I will fab something better to replace the upper left wrench holder.

For tools that I rarely use, I utilize deeper drawers and stack tools on top of each other - if I didn't do this I would have to have a whole wall of tool boxes.

Ended up making 3 pliers racks for this drawer.

I think I am going to end up with a couple of pry bars that won't go into any drawers, so pretty close to a win.