Prospecter
Well-known member
Looking good, Jeff. Must feel good to check that off "The List."
Between 705 & 1200 SQ/FT DIY Shop
- Thread starter Jeff Ivers
- Start date
Workspaces between 705 and 1200 squarefeet.
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Jeff Ivers
Well-known member
Thanks, Prospecter. I was way overdue for this task and can't wait to get the Shaller bins and wrap it up.
Today, I decided it was time to take down the crepe myrtle that has been growing on the NE corner of my shop (outside) for 30 years or so. The reason for taking it down? Growing up in it were oak trees, pear tree, mulberry tree, buck brush, virginia creeper and who knows what else. Got it down to 2 3-foot high stalks when I threw the chainsaw chain. The goal is to take the whole area to ground level and then saturate with brush killer - I do not want trees growing that near the shop.
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Jeff Ivers
Well-known member
Well, I just thought I was done with my toolbox reorg. Kept thinking I could do better on that pliers drawer (last one pictured). And, I still had some raw material left that could be used for more pliers racks.
Now, I am done with this drawer - really I am. Can't see any way to make it better and I made space for some extra items.
Went down to mow the woods yesterday and discovered one large limb blown down in widow-maker fashion and the last of my walnut trees down. So, tomorrow it is chain saw time.
Now, I am done with this drawer - really I am. Can't see any way to make it better and I made space for some extra items.
Went down to mow the woods yesterday and discovered one large limb blown down in widow-maker fashion and the last of my walnut trees down. So, tomorrow it is chain saw time.
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Jeff Ivers
Well-known member
I have spent the last two mornings working in the woods. I had one limb (about 12" diam.) down in widow maker fashion (one end still hung up about 15' above ground and the other end on the ground. Wrapped a tow rope around it and hooked the other end to my Honda SXS in 4-wheel drive and easily put the whole thing on the ground. I have that mess cleaned up.
But then I have this:
This tree had always been growing at an angle to perpendicular. I had recently wondered if it was leaning more than it used to because my ROP on the tractor hit while I was mowing around it. It looks like it just got tired and decided to lay down. Don't know if the really wet April/May time frame or storm winds contributed. I have cleaned up one limb that obviously was not supporting the rest of the tree. I am now down to 2 contact points with the ground - one just to the left of the Honda and the base of the tree. The arch is high enough I can drive under it. My challenge now is to figure out how to get the rest of this on the ground safely.
But then I have this:
This tree had always been growing at an angle to perpendicular. I had recently wondered if it was leaning more than it used to because my ROP on the tractor hit while I was mowing around it. It looks like it just got tired and decided to lay down. Don't know if the really wet April/May time frame or storm winds contributed. I have cleaned up one limb that obviously was not supporting the rest of the tree. I am now down to 2 contact points with the ground - one just to the left of the Honda and the base of the tree. The arch is high enough I can drive under it. My challenge now is to figure out how to get the rest of this on the ground safely.
RickP
Well-known member
That arched tree looks like a challenge.
I'd start by cutting off the branches at the trunk.
Then cut the trunk into lengths, starting at the top.
(undercut a third, then topcut the remaining two-thirds of the diameter)
Good luck with it, and stay safe!
I'd start by cutting off the branches at the trunk.
Then cut the trunk into lengths, starting at the top.
(undercut a third, then topcut the remaining two-thirds of the diameter)
Good luck with it, and stay safe!
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Jeff Ivers
Well-known member
One of my mental challenges in deciding how to tackle this is concern about needing to be on a ladder about 15 feet in the air to cut the branches off the trunk and uncertain about how things will shift when the branch comes free. Got knocked off a ladder once upon a time in a less dicey situation than this.
RickP
Well-known member
I hate ladders with chainsaws for this exact reason.
I usually just stand in the back of the SxS (or on the roof) -- it's a much more stable platform for using the saw.
if you have a pole saw, you might try lightening each branch by lopping off the smaller branches first. This makes it a lot safer when you cut off the main branch.
I usually just stand in the back of the SxS (or on the roof) -- it's a much more stable platform for using the saw.
if you have a pole saw, you might try lightening each branch by lopping off the smaller branches first. This makes it a lot safer when you cut off the main branch.
Jeff - I know that you are a capable guy. From what I've seen on this thread, you do a great job of thinking through problems. However, if you are in doubt about being able to do this job safely, then it is likely a situation where it's worth calling in a pro. Let someone with the right equipment and experience tackle this one while you enjoy the show from a safe distance away.
Prospecter
Well-known member
Yeah. Those aren't much fun. I typically start with anything I can reach from the ground, and then cut by the stump so if it rolls I can step back. Of course it's difficult to know which way the cut will pinch. Good luck.
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Jeff Ivers
Well-known member
I was out early this morning to once again tackle my leaning walnut. My usual approach with downed timber is to work from the outside in - removing the brushy stuff that is not supporting any weight so I can get a better look at what I am facing.
Once I had all the debris removed, this is what I saw. Upon examining the ground contact point in the center of the picture, I determined that the wood was resting on the ground and not embedded in it, implying very little pressure on it. I decided to work at undercutting the limb as close to the ground as possible to reduce the distance for things to shift. Notice the Y fork in the upper left corner with the large cutoff limb?
That Y fork is now in the center of the picture and almost on the ground. As I removed sections of limb, I could literally watch the tree settling toward the ground in slow motion. I can now reach at least a couple of the limbs from the ground. Since I was concentrating on getting a brush pile burned, including the debris from this I had already cut, I left the project here for today. Tomorrow, I will work on cutting all limbs I can reach from the ground and then continue undercutting my way up the main trunk as long as it continues settling to the ground in slow motion. If It behaves as it did today, I should be able to get to the last big limb from the ground after some more work. Once I have worked my way from the top down as far as I can, I should be able to go cut the base of the tree and let the remaining log drop to the ground.
Once I had all the debris removed, this is what I saw. Upon examining the ground contact point in the center of the picture, I determined that the wood was resting on the ground and not embedded in it, implying very little pressure on it. I decided to work at undercutting the limb as close to the ground as possible to reduce the distance for things to shift. Notice the Y fork in the upper left corner with the large cutoff limb?
That Y fork is now in the center of the picture and almost on the ground. As I removed sections of limb, I could literally watch the tree settling toward the ground in slow motion. I can now reach at least a couple of the limbs from the ground. Since I was concentrating on getting a brush pile burned, including the debris from this I had already cut, I left the project here for today. Tomorrow, I will work on cutting all limbs I can reach from the ground and then continue undercutting my way up the main trunk as long as it continues settling to the ground in slow motion. If It behaves as it did today, I should be able to get to the last big limb from the ground after some more work. Once I have worked my way from the top down as far as I can, I should be able to go cut the base of the tree and let the remaining log drop to the ground.
Prospecter
Well-known member
Good plan!
RickP
Well-known member
Wow, that has got to be the most well-mannered leaning tree that I've ever seen!
Nice plan (and good execution).
Nice plan (and good execution).
OP
Jeff Ivers
Well-known member
I totally agree with you. I usually stand in the trailer I tow behind the SXS or in the back of the SXS whenever possible. Using a ladder is a last resort for me.
When I first saw this, I was seriously considering calling a pro. I have used a pro in the past, but that was for a 3' diameter tree with a lot of rot that was very close to my shop.
I have really lucked out on this thing. See today's episode next.
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Jeff Ivers
Well-known member
I went back to my leaning walnut project this morning. The last posted pic showed the "top" of the tree resting on a sawed off chunk lying on the ground. 
I started by pruning the limbs I could now reach from the ground. When I cut the above limb off, the main trunk actually went up so the end was no longer resting on the chunk on the ground, even though the cut limb was resting on the main trunk.
This is the way I left it today. I think the next step is to cut the base and drop the works onto the ground to finish. Wish I knew someone who would come in and take that straight portion of the walnut trunk off my hands in exchange for some cash.
It was too windy today with too much wind forecast for the next week to risk burning anything else, so I had to resort to loading the debris and moving it near my burn spot for a future session.
I started by pruning the limbs I could now reach from the ground. When I cut the above limb off, the main trunk actually went up so the end was no longer resting on the chunk on the ground, even though the cut limb was resting on the main trunk.
This is the way I left it today. I think the next step is to cut the base and drop the works onto the ground to finish. Wish I knew someone who would come in and take that straight portion of the walnut trunk off my hands in exchange for some cash.
It was too windy today with too much wind forecast for the next week to risk burning anything else, so I had to resort to loading the debris and moving it near my burn spot for a future session.
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Jeff Ivers
Well-known member
Finally got back to my walnut project for a bit today.
I am dragging my feet a bit on dropping the balance in order to keep the tree alive. A few years ago, I took down a smaller walnut tree than this and managed to drag the log up to the apron in front of my shop hoping to turn some of the log into usable wood. After being turned down by local sawmills as too small, the bugs got to the log before I could figure anything out and I ended up cutting it into firewood. I have a fairly straight trunk that is about 23 feet long and ranges from 16" to 12" in diameter. Research says that should weigh about 1600 pounds. I will post another thread on this, but anyone know of any innovative (cheap) ways to turn something like this into usable lumber at home?
I am dragging my feet a bit on dropping the balance in order to keep the tree alive. A few years ago, I took down a smaller walnut tree than this and managed to drag the log up to the apron in front of my shop hoping to turn some of the log into usable wood. After being turned down by local sawmills as too small, the bugs got to the log before I could figure anything out and I ended up cutting it into firewood. I have a fairly straight trunk that is about 23 feet long and ranges from 16" to 12" in diameter. Research says that should weigh about 1600 pounds. I will post another thread on this, but anyone know of any innovative (cheap) ways to turn something like this into usable lumber at home?
Given that you aren't going to process a lot of lumber, this would be a perfect application for a chainsaw mill. Fairly affordable, especially since you already have the chainsaw and the log isn't that large. There are a lot of how-to videos on YouTube if you want to reference them before buying.
RickP
Well-known member
^^^ ÷1 on a chainsaw mill.
I bought a small Alaskan Mill to fit my regular-sized saw, and it's worked well for me. But I've only used it on softer woods so far. Square chisel chain is pretty affordable from Amazon, and Harbor Freight has a decent bench mounted sharpener for changing the angle of the teeth for ripping. Check out Bailey's web site for a good description of the various milling options. You can use an aluminum extension ladder as a cutting guide. You could probably get going for under $200.
I bought a small Alaskan Mill to fit my regular-sized saw, and it's worked well for me. But I've only used it on softer woods so far. Square chisel chain is pretty affordable from Amazon, and Harbor Freight has a decent bench mounted sharpener for changing the angle of the teeth for ripping. Check out Bailey's web site for a good description of the various milling options. You can use an aluminum extension ladder as a cutting guide. You could probably get going for under $200.
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Jeff Ivers
Well-known member
So, this is what happens when I get busy with other things and get behind on the flowerbed weeding. She has been sitting on 8 eggs for about 3 weeks. Should get interesting in about another week.
RickP
Well-known member
Wow, I've never seen ducks nesting that close to a house!
I wonder how close to "home" Mama will keep the little ones.
I wonder how close to "home" Mama will keep the little ones.
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Jeff Ivers
Well-known member
Sure surprised me. The closest water is ponds on my neighbor to the north and 2 neighbors to the south. Easily 200 yards to the closest. The other surprising thing is that I was under the impression ducks mated for life, but I have never seen the male anywhere near.
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Jeff Ivers
Well-known member
Well, as of yesterday, my poor duck is still sitting on the eggs under my outdoor faucet. I think she has been there almost 6 weeks, although I may be long by a week. However, when I looked up the gestation period for ducks it was shown as 28 days. I wonder how long it will be before she gives up. Sad, so sad.
On other news, while on a bike ride, I came across this:
Looks like someone did not have their pin secure.
Made for a nice "piddle" project for the shop. On more serious matters, the hitch portion of my car trailer was looking kind of poor.
I decided it was time to do something about it. After working on it for four mornings, I am at this point:
I honestly don't know how one is supposed to rehab the area behind where the jack mounts. I can barely get my hand in there, much less any kind of sander/wire wheel, or other power tool. I finally broke out the siphon sand blaster I haven't used in about 25 years and hit the area to the best of my ability.
Part of me thinks I need to spend another morning or two with the various sanders. Another part of me wants to go out and wipe everything down with degreaser, then apply rustoleum primer followed by rustoleum gloss black. Meanwhile, I am working on the jack in the shop and have acquired a new battery box .
On other news, while on a bike ride, I came across this:
Looks like someone did not have their pin secure.
Made for a nice "piddle" project for the shop. On more serious matters, the hitch portion of my car trailer was looking kind of poor.
I decided it was time to do something about it. After working on it for four mornings, I am at this point:
I honestly don't know how one is supposed to rehab the area behind where the jack mounts. I can barely get my hand in there, much less any kind of sander/wire wheel, or other power tool. I finally broke out the siphon sand blaster I haven't used in about 25 years and hit the area to the best of my ability.Part of me thinks I need to spend another morning or two with the various sanders. Another part of me wants to go out and wipe everything down with degreaser, then apply rustoleum primer followed by rustoleum gloss black. Meanwhile, I am working on the jack in the shop and have acquired a new battery box .
38 Dodge Coupe
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Your trailer is looking good. I think what you have described is a perfect example of scope creep. I am guilty of that myself. However the philosophy that I try hard to follow on projects like this is, “don‘t let the perfect get in the way of the good.“
RickP
Well-known member
Nice find and rehab on that hitch -- looks pretty good for a trail find!
I think your old trailer looks good enough, and ready for paint without any more sanding. If you're concerned about it, I often use Rustoleum's primer for heavy rust when I can't get rid of all the pitting. I bought a gallon of it back in the 90s and I just used it up last year. It goes on pretty thick, so the finish isn't as good as a rattle can, but it's better than having rust bleed through the paint after a year or so.
I think your old trailer looks good enough, and ready for paint without any more sanding. If you're concerned about it, I often use Rustoleum's primer for heavy rust when I can't get rid of all the pitting. I bought a gallon of it back in the 90s and I just used it up last year. It goes on pretty thick, so the finish isn't as good as a rattle can, but it's better than having rust bleed through the paint after a year or so.
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Jeff Ivers
Well-known member
Thank you. I let this thing go way too long without attention. I agree with the philosophy - the hard part is figuring out when you have reached "good".
Thank you. The additional sanding I am still debating about is the part that requires me to lay on my back to get to the bottom of each of those beams. I, too, am a fan of the Rustoleum red primer and that is what I bought a new quart of to use on this project.
RickP
Well-known member
Good deal -- you're way ahead of me!
You're smart to think about whether or not to paint the underside of the trailer. On my boat trailer, I just covered the rust with more paint every few years (but it was galvanized). Anyway, that trailer still looks pretty decent after 30 years, so I'd just skip the sanding!
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Jeff Ivers
Well-known member
Finished the receiver insert rejuvenation and posted an ad for it.
Over the years, my go-to brush has become those disposable foam brushes. Have I ever commented on here how much I hate painting? So, I grabbed a foam brush and applied a coat of primer to my trailer tongue, after spending a bit more time sanding on the bottoms of the rails. I was not happy with the coverage, as it looked splotchy. (forgot to take a pic) So, this morning, I grabbed a real brush and applied a second coat of primer.
Much happier now - I believe tomorrow I will be ready for a finish coat. Though I forgot a before picture, the area in front of the walk-in door had horrible black streaking from the rubber bumper attached to the side. I had a bottle of black streak remover and tried it, but alas, it did not phase it. So, I grabbed my ancient bottle of 3M 051131-06011 Imperial Microfinishing compound, applied a bit to a microfiber towel and the black literally wiped off! Yeah! Amazing what a difference the right product makes.
Once I have the tongue all back together, the plan is to hook the truck up and pull the trailer around in front of the shop where water and power are closer and then use the microfinish compound on the entire trailer. After that I will apply some form of wax/polish/sealant. Any recommendations, keeping in mind this trailer tends to be ignored for long periods?
Over the years, my go-to brush has become those disposable foam brushes. Have I ever commented on here how much I hate painting? So, I grabbed a foam brush and applied a coat of primer to my trailer tongue, after spending a bit more time sanding on the bottoms of the rails. I was not happy with the coverage, as it looked splotchy. (forgot to take a pic) So, this morning, I grabbed a real brush and applied a second coat of primer.
Much happier now - I believe tomorrow I will be ready for a finish coat. Though I forgot a before picture, the area in front of the walk-in door had horrible black streaking from the rubber bumper attached to the side. I had a bottle of black streak remover and tried it, but alas, it did not phase it. So, I grabbed my ancient bottle of 3M 051131-06011 Imperial Microfinishing compound, applied a bit to a microfiber towel and the black literally wiped off! Yeah! Amazing what a difference the right product makes.
Once I have the tongue all back together, the plan is to hook the truck up and pull the trailer around in front of the shop where water and power are closer and then use the microfinish compound on the entire trailer. After that I will apply some form of wax/polish/sealant. Any recommendations, keeping in mind this trailer tends to be ignored for long periods?
RickP
Well-known member
That trailer is looking good -- almost done with maintenance and then on to cleaning!Over the years, my go-to brush has become those disposable foam brushes. Have I ever commented on here how much I hate painting? So, I grabbed a foam brush and applied a coat of primer to my trailer tongue, after spending a bit more time sanding on the bottoms of the rails. I was not happy with the coverage, as it looked splotchy. (forgot to take a pic) So, this morning, I grabbed a real brush and applied a second coat of primer.
I hate cleaning brushes too... I use those foam brushes all the time, but also the disposable 1" bristle brushes (HF sells a whole box of them pretty cheap). Good luck with the wash/wax routine -- I'm definitely not the guy to ask about those products.
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Jeff Ivers
Well-known member
Well, I think I reached good on Tuesday. Two coats of rust red Rustoleum primer and one coat of Rustoleum gloss black - although, I keep having these invasive thoughts that I should apply a second coat of black to increase the durability (?). Did nothing outside yesterday and this morning was devoted to edger, weed eater and mowing about half the place before it got too hot. Unless I give in to the invasive thoughts, I will finish repainting the jack and commence with re-assembly.
Uofime
Well-known member
Big fan of two coats when painting. There is a lot more time in the prep work than the painting, never mind how much less pleasant the prep is. Therefore it is well worth the extra effort and cost doing the second coat to prolong the life a bit and generally make it look better too.
Well, I think I reached good on Tuesday. Two coats of rust red Rustoleum primer and one coat of Rustoleum gloss black - although, I keep having these invasive thoughts that I should apply a second coat of black to increase the durability (?). Did nothing outside yesterday and this morning was devoted to edger, weed eater and mowing about half the place before it got too hot. Unless I give in to the invasive thoughts, I will finish repainting the jack and commence with re-assembly.
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Jeff Ivers
Well-known member
The duck finally abandoned the nest about a week ago. Sat on that for at least 8 weeks - with no success.
Had to do some yard cleanup this morning after a storm a few days ago.
Too bad these aren't edible - quite a crop.
Had to do some yard cleanup this morning after a storm a few days ago.
Too bad these aren't edible - quite a crop.
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Jeff Ivers
Well-known member
I usually take a Sunday morning bike ride to buy the paper and some pastries. This morning I was riding my usual route and saw a bird I have never seen before. When perched it appeared all white, but when it flew off, the body appeared to be very pale blue. Size was about that of a finch or swallow. Hurried home to try to figure out what I had seen, only to discover that I had gotten rid of all my bird books as part of my downsizing. So, when I sign off here, it is off to the google jungle in search of knowledge. Sorry, no pic, it was gone too fast to even get the phone out of my pocket.
Hopefully the bird isn't someone's escaped pet. I know some breeds of Parrotlets can have a very light blue color, but Oklahoma is going to be tough go for it once the temps drop. Mountain Bluebirds can have white bellies and a lighter blue tops, and it looks like western OK is part of their winter range.
If you are interested in birds, I'd suggest downloading an app called 'Merlin' on your phone.
merlin.allaboutbirds.org
My favorite feature is using the microphone on the phone to capture bird songs and then it gives you a list of species it picks up. It's a lot of fun to play with, especially during migrations or when traveling to different parts of the country.
If you are interested in birds, I'd suggest downloading an app called 'Merlin' on your phone.
Merlin Bird ID - Home
Identify Bird Songs and Calls Sound ID listens to the birds around you and shows real-time suggestions for who’s singing. Compare your recording to the songs and calls in Merlin to confirm what you heard. Sound ID works completely offline, so you can identify birds you hear no matter where you ar
merlin.allaboutbirds.org
My favorite feature is using the microphone on the phone to capture bird songs and then it gives you a list of species it picks up. It's a lot of fun to play with, especially during migrations or when traveling to different parts of the country.
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Jeff Ivers
Well-known member
I totally agree about hoping it was not an escaped or released pet. I searched several online "bird photo books" trying to id what I saw. The closest I could find was a white finch (which I did not know existed). The brief glimpse I had of it in flight, it seemed to have more of a swallow profile, though.Hopefully the bird isn't someone's escaped pet. I know some breeds of Parrotlets can have a very light blue color, but Oklahoma is going to be tough go for it once the temps drop. Mountain Bluebirds can have white bellies and a lighter blue tops, and it looks like western OK is part of their winter range.
If you are interested in birds, I'd suggest downloading an app called 'Merlin' on your phone.
Merlin Bird ID - Home
Identify Bird Songs and Calls Sound ID listens to the birds around you and shows real-time suggestions for who’s singing. Compare your recording to the songs and calls in Merlin to confirm what you heard. Sound ID works completely offline, so you can identify birds you hear no matter where you ar
My favorite feature is using the microphone on the phone to capture bird songs and then it gives you a list of species it picks up. It's a lot of fun to play with, especially during migrations or when traveling to different parts of the country.
My wife and I used to regularly feed birds and bird watch, but I have gotten out of the habit since she passed away. The neatest bird we ever saw was a painted bunting which I had no idea one could see in Oklahoma.
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Jeff Ivers
Well-known member
Having some cooler mornings, so yesterday, decided it was time to clean out the attached garage as my race deck flooring was looking pathetic. I have, for a long time, had a shop vac hanging on the wall of the garage. I really like this as it allows me to keep the cars vacuumed out much more frequently than I would otherwise. In addition, I use the vac to go over the floor before mopping. To do this, since the garage has an "ell" off it for storage, I need about 35' of hose on the vac. About a year ago, my vac failed and had to be replaced with one that only had about 18' of hose. So, yesterday I was able to clean the primary portion of the garage, but not the "ell". And, of course, the new vac has 1.5" inch fittings instead of the 1.25" on the old vac.
Today, it was time to resolve the hose issue.
Took 2 of these saved fittings and cut off the big portion, leaving a flange.
Slapped the flanges together with some silicon between and drilled and bolted. Then, a 1.25" to 1.25" plumbing fitting allowed me to connect my long length of 1.25" hose to my 12' foot hose on the new vac. Tomorrow, the "ell" gets cleaned!
Today, it was time to resolve the hose issue.
Took 2 of these saved fittings and cut off the big portion, leaving a flange.
Slapped the flanges together with some silicon between and drilled and bolted. Then, a 1.25" to 1.25" plumbing fitting allowed me to connect my long length of 1.25" hose to my 12' foot hose on the new vac. Tomorrow, the "ell" gets cleaned!
Prospecter
Well-known member
Nice solution.
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Jeff Ivers
Well-known member
Back in November 2019, I redid my "John Deere outdoor bench" by laminating some wood together and applying a finish. The goal was to make it look nicer and solve the problem with a warped seat and back.
A couple of weeks ago, I noticed it looked dirty and went to wipe it off, only to discover the finish looked splotchy like mold or mildew was growing on it that would not wipe off. The good news is the warping problem is solved. The bad news is that I can't remember for sure what finish I used, but I suspect that I used boiled linseed oil/paint thinner mix. So I took the back off, sanded it, and refinished it with a coat of BLO/PT followed by 3 coats of spar urethane. You can see the difference in the above picture. I am currently working on the seat, but it got put on hold while I took a trip to explore trail riding and treasure hunting.
Since taking up metal detecting and acquiring my Pioneer 520 for choring on the property, I have thought it would be neat to go somewhere that I could use the Side by Side (SXS) to access remote areas where ghost towns and abandoned mines exist to metal detect for "treasure".
Since most of the places that I can find out about are several states away, I decided I needed to do some sort of trial run. So, I made a list of the things I thought I should have on such an expedition, practiced loading the SXS (above pic), and loaded up for a trip to Wolf Den Gap near Mena AR.
I drove to the area and spent a night in a motel and then headed for WPG on Tuesday morning. I had studied the map and decided I should try the "easy" trail that started from the East Trailhead. On the way there, I saw a sign to the West trailhead and, hoping there might be some sort of ranger station where I could get more info, decided to drive to it first. I turned down AR375 and drove a narrow blacktop road to the trailhead to discover an empty gravel lot.
Back out to Hwy 8, I proceeded, per instructions, to Polk County Rd 83 and turned onto it. Now I grew up in Missouri, where most county roads were gravel, but 2 lanes wide. I found myself on a one lane wide gravel road with no place to turn around. The trailhead was 5 miles ahead. I honestly don't know what I would have done if another vehicle met me coming from the other direction. I don't think I could have pulled over far enough to let a vehicle pass and I certainly wasn't going to back down a curvy road with a short wheelbase trailer. Fortunately, I met no one and made it to the trailhead without incident.
I unloaded the SXS and drove trail 6 to where it intersected with trail 8. I did not find any metal detecting opportunities. I did encounter other SXS riders. At that intersection, I had a choice of entering a more difficult trail or returning the way I came. Since I did not have any hope of finding some metal detecting spots on the other trail, I returned the way I came (about 30 miles round trip, I think). Miraculously, I was able to drive back out to Hwy 8 without encountering an oncoming vehicle. I still think this would be fun to do, but I need to find out more info about the routes to trailheads.
This is a pic taken at the intersection where I reversed direction.
A couple of weeks ago, I noticed it looked dirty and went to wipe it off, only to discover the finish looked splotchy like mold or mildew was growing on it that would not wipe off. The good news is the warping problem is solved. The bad news is that I can't remember for sure what finish I used, but I suspect that I used boiled linseed oil/paint thinner mix. So I took the back off, sanded it, and refinished it with a coat of BLO/PT followed by 3 coats of spar urethane. You can see the difference in the above picture. I am currently working on the seat, but it got put on hold while I took a trip to explore trail riding and treasure hunting.
Since taking up metal detecting and acquiring my Pioneer 520 for choring on the property, I have thought it would be neat to go somewhere that I could use the Side by Side (SXS) to access remote areas where ghost towns and abandoned mines exist to metal detect for "treasure".
Since most of the places that I can find out about are several states away, I decided I needed to do some sort of trial run. So, I made a list of the things I thought I should have on such an expedition, practiced loading the SXS (above pic), and loaded up for a trip to Wolf Den Gap near Mena AR.
I drove to the area and spent a night in a motel and then headed for WPG on Tuesday morning. I had studied the map and decided I should try the "easy" trail that started from the East Trailhead. On the way there, I saw a sign to the West trailhead and, hoping there might be some sort of ranger station where I could get more info, decided to drive to it first. I turned down AR375 and drove a narrow blacktop road to the trailhead to discover an empty gravel lot.
Back out to Hwy 8, I proceeded, per instructions, to Polk County Rd 83 and turned onto it. Now I grew up in Missouri, where most county roads were gravel, but 2 lanes wide. I found myself on a one lane wide gravel road with no place to turn around. The trailhead was 5 miles ahead. I honestly don't know what I would have done if another vehicle met me coming from the other direction. I don't think I could have pulled over far enough to let a vehicle pass and I certainly wasn't going to back down a curvy road with a short wheelbase trailer. Fortunately, I met no one and made it to the trailhead without incident.
I unloaded the SXS and drove trail 6 to where it intersected with trail 8. I did not find any metal detecting opportunities. I did encounter other SXS riders. At that intersection, I had a choice of entering a more difficult trail or returning the way I came. Since I did not have any hope of finding some metal detecting spots on the other trail, I returned the way I came (about 30 miles round trip, I think). Miraculously, I was able to drive back out to Hwy 8 without encountering an oncoming vehicle. I still think this would be fun to do, but I need to find out more info about the routes to trailheads.
This is a pic taken at the intersection where I reversed direction.
RickP
Well-known member
Sounds like a good trip -- those trails look remote!
I'd like to try that someday with our ATV/trailer.
Better luck next time with the metal detecting part.
I'd like to try that someday with our ATV/trailer.
Better luck next time with the metal detecting part.
OP
Jeff Ivers
Well-known member
It was well out in the boonies. I drove almost 3/4 of the trail before meeting another SXS. After I turned around to head back, I met a couple of groups of 3 who had obviously started much later than me. I may go back some day and do some of the other trails that go by camping areas for the potential metal detecting opportunities.
OP
Jeff Ivers
Well-known member
Yesterday, I was able to finish re-doing the JD bench.
Hopefully this will now be good for at least another 5 years.
On May 13, I mentioned that my 2011 Silverado was having cold starting problems. The purchase of a new code scanner and a trip to the dealer for service resulted in no change. I then ran 2 tankfuls of gas through with a fuel system additive in each tank - with no change. I decided the prudent way to handle the situation was to discover how to minimize the issue and live with it until something failed hard enough to throw a code and point me in the right direction. I discovered that if I turned the ignition key on without starting and waited until the fuel light went out and then started the engine with a very slight tap on the throttle just as the engine started, it would start without the stumbling and dying symptoms. I have lived with this routine all summer. Last week, when I made my trip to Mena, AR, I decided one morning to start the truck while I was standing outside the vehicle so I could check my trailer lights and let the engine warm up a bit. Forgetting my routine, I just reached in and turned the engine on and it started with no stumble or dying! And, since then, each time I have started the engine I have done so with no problems or symptoms. and without the routine. How about that - a truck that fixes itself? The only thing that I can think of that changed was the several hour drive to Mena and back. I am wondering if some sensor has gone marginal or caused the computer to miscalibrate the start sequence and if the long drive was a sufficient period for the system to properly recalibrate. Any thoughts?
Hopefully this will now be good for at least another 5 years.
On May 13, I mentioned that my 2011 Silverado was having cold starting problems. The purchase of a new code scanner and a trip to the dealer for service resulted in no change. I then ran 2 tankfuls of gas through with a fuel system additive in each tank - with no change. I decided the prudent way to handle the situation was to discover how to minimize the issue and live with it until something failed hard enough to throw a code and point me in the right direction. I discovered that if I turned the ignition key on without starting and waited until the fuel light went out and then started the engine with a very slight tap on the throttle just as the engine started, it would start without the stumbling and dying symptoms. I have lived with this routine all summer. Last week, when I made my trip to Mena, AR, I decided one morning to start the truck while I was standing outside the vehicle so I could check my trailer lights and let the engine warm up a bit. Forgetting my routine, I just reached in and turned the engine on and it started with no stumble or dying! And, since then, each time I have started the engine I have done so with no problems or symptoms. and without the routine. How about that - a truck that fixes itself? The only thing that I can think of that changed was the several hour drive to Mena and back. I am wondering if some sensor has gone marginal or caused the computer to miscalibrate the start sequence and if the long drive was a sufficient period for the system to properly recalibrate. Any thoughts?