RickP
Well-known member
Merry Christmas to you too!
Between 705 & 1200 SQ/FT DIY Shop
- Thread starter Jeff Ivers
- Start date
Workspaces between 705 and 1200 squarefeet.
OP
Jeff Ivers
Well-known member
Continuing the Armoire repurpose project:
I got the 2 back panels cut, holes drilled, and a coat of varnish on to finally end phase 5.
I continued working on phase 8 which is the construction of a small DVD cabinet. All done except a back panel.
To complete the project, I needed to order some new router bits, which of course would not fit in my router bit drawer, so phase 9 of this project was creating a new router bit drawer insert.
I got the 2 back panels cut, holes drilled, and a coat of varnish on to finally end phase 5.
I continued working on phase 8 which is the construction of a small DVD cabinet. All done except a back panel.
To complete the project, I needed to order some new router bits, which of course would not fit in my router bit drawer, so phase 9 of this project was creating a new router bit drawer insert.
Prospecter
Well-known member
I like that router solution. That will save a lot of room in my router bit drawer.
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Jeff Ivers
Well-known member
I completed phase 7 of this project when I finished assembling my new cabinet. I ordered a router bit to rabbet the back openings for the back panels. I then cut a radius on each back panel corner rather than using a chisel to square off the opening.
I finished phase 8 when I completed assembly of the small DVD cabinet.
I completed phase 9 of this project when I finished the router bit holder.
Today, I moved the new cabinets into place and hooked everything up.
I am finally calling this project done.
RickP
Well-known member
Nice work!
Working with pre-finished wood is hard, and you made it look easy. Cabinet looks great!
Working with pre-finished wood is hard, and you made it look easy. Cabinet looks great!
OP
Jeff Ivers
Well-known member
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Jeff Ivers
Well-known member
When I moved my new cabinet into place and loaded it with the electronics, I noticed it seemed to be leaning towards the wall. I had a small torpedo level in the house and used it to confirm that the top was about 1/4 inch lower at the rear than the front. My first thought was that I must have forgot to check plumb and square when I attached the base that covers both sides and the front. So, I loaded up the electric drill and bit, impact driver, spare screws, a couple of clamps, and large square in the shop and drug them to the house preparing to strip everything out of the cabinet and turn it upside down to "correct" the problem. Fortunately, I spent some time with the square first and determined that everything that was supposed to be plumb and square was spot on. So what is the deal? Does the lack of a base piece across the back allow the cabinet to sink into the carpet further there vs the front? I added a couple of shims to level the top and called it good, but am still curious. Anyone else run into this when making or installing furniture?
Prospecter
Well-known member
Absolutely. Could be carpet. Could be the house, floor, elves, cosmic event, . . . My Mom smoked, so my Dad always had matchbooks to use as shims. But wood shims are good.
RickP
Well-known member
^+1
It's so bad for me that I've come to expect everything to lean toward the wall, and I'm surprised when it doesn't. I usually just grab a couple of those rubber things that go under furniture feet and use those under the back of the cabinet.
The finished piece looks really good -- nice job on reusing all that prefinished wood and matching the stain so well.
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Jeff Ivers
Well-known member
Thanks, gentlemen. I guess what caught me off guard about this is the old cabinet was at least 3 times heavier and covered a deeper and wider footprint - and I never detected any leaning or off level on it. When I brought the new cabinet in and set it down, I noticed the lean at once and repositioning it did not correct the problem (leading to my initial assumption that I had screwed up the construction). The house is slab built and I don't detect any underlying floor problems. So, it appears the only explanation is the compression of the carpet/pad by the new cabinet. That got me wondering if I should have considered that possibility when designing the cabinet and included a cross piece at the rear bottom rather than leaving it open so some of the wires could be tucked under the cabinet. The wood shims have solved the problem and are not noticeable, just trying to figure out if I should do something different in the future.
Prospecter
Well-known member
I think you did just right, and the cabinet looks great. Not only are houses out of plumb / square / level, but they are inconsistently "Out." So you might still need to shim.
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Jeff Ivers
Well-known member
Here in Broken Arrow, we don't often see "winter wonderland".
The forecast was for 2 to 4 inches. I didn't get out to shovel the drive and take pics until after it had warmed enough to start melting.
Based on the amount of melting that had already occurred, I would say we got 7" to 8". With any luck, it will be gone in another 3 to 4 days.
The forecast was for 2 to 4 inches. I didn't get out to shovel the drive and take pics until after it had warmed enough to start melting.
Based on the amount of melting that had already occurred, I would say we got 7" to 8". With any luck, it will be gone in another 3 to 4 days.
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Jeff Ivers
Well-known member
Decided it was time to take a trip and enjoy a different environment and try out my new metal detector on a beach.
Drove to Biloxi, MS.
Saw these strange barge like boats on the water. Is this some kind of specialized fishing rig?
One of my finds was this Gerber knife which was about 8 inches deep. I am soaking it in WD40 and then plan to clean it in an ultrasonic cleaner and then attempt to disassemble it to clean and lube the inside. Anyone have experience rehabbing such a knife? Is there a better way?
Drove to Biloxi, MS.
Saw these strange barge like boats on the water. Is this some kind of specialized fishing rig?
One of my finds was this Gerber knife which was about 8 inches deep. I am soaking it in WD40 and then plan to clean it in an ultrasonic cleaner and then attempt to disassemble it to clean and lube the inside. Anyone have experience rehabbing such a knife? Is there a better way?
Nice find!
Unless you can feel sand in the action after cleaning, I don't know that disassembly will be necessary. All I do with my knives when they get dropped in the sand or mud is to give them a good scrub with an old toothbrush using a bowl of warm water and dish soap, followed by a shot of compressed air to clear out any remaining debris and dry them off. Then I apply some gun lube to the moving parts using a needle applicator and open/close it a few dozen times to work the oil in. Smooth as silk after that.
Prospecter
Well-known member
Perfect time of year to head south for a few days! Nice find on the knife.Decided it was time to take a trip and enjoy a different environment and try out my new metal detector on a beach.
Drove to Biloxi, MS.
Saw these strange barge like boats on the water. Is this some kind of specialized fishing rig?
One of my finds was this Gerber knife which was about 8 inches deep. I am soaking it in WD40 and then plan to clean it in an ultrasonic cleaner and then attempt to disassemble it to clean and lube the inside. Anyone have experience rehabbing such a knife? Is there a better way?
OP
Jeff Ivers
Well-known member
Found out my new heated ultrasonic cleaner will not arrive till middle of next week and got impatient with the gerber. I had been soaking it with WD40 for days. Today, I took it out to the shop and used a pic to knock out some crud in some of the cracks and then blew it clean with compressed air. Tried to open the blade and succeeded so then I took the knife to the wire brush. Some fresh teflon lube and the knife is usable. I love it when I metal detect something I can bring back to life.
I believe the blade and belt clip are stainless as there was no sign of rust. The handles are aluminum and there is some loss of material near where the clip attaches. Determined this is a Gerber Air Ranger.
I believe the blade and belt clip are stainless as there was no sign of rust. The handles are aluminum and there is some loss of material near where the clip attaches. Determined this is a Gerber Air Ranger.
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Jeff Ivers
Well-known member
I absolutely love my bike. It is a 1999 Trek 7300.
On my most recent ride (before the latest snow and arctic blast), I discovered I had some side-to-side slop in my handlebars. Determined it could be corrected by tightening the two bolts on the front of the stem. Before I did that, I decided to remove the bolts and check them. When I did, this spacer/seal came out that was obviously well worn.
I don't know enough about bike design to know if this is essential or can be eliminated. To my way of thinking the obvious reason for the piece is to to keep moisture away from the bolts and dress up the front appearance of the bike. I first tried gluing this with some clear silicon, but was not too happy with the result. Since this is one of those un-obtainium parts, I decided to see what I could fab.
This old piece of floor mat is similar in density and thickness.
Applied the piece to the belt sander to achieve the correct thickness.
A scrap of pipe with the end ground to a bevel allowed me to punch an appropriate hole.
After some more work with an exacto knife and the belt sander, I came up with a piece I thought would work.
And, installed.
On my most recent ride (before the latest snow and arctic blast), I discovered I had some side-to-side slop in my handlebars. Determined it could be corrected by tightening the two bolts on the front of the stem. Before I did that, I decided to remove the bolts and check them. When I did, this spacer/seal came out that was obviously well worn.
I don't know enough about bike design to know if this is essential or can be eliminated. To my way of thinking the obvious reason for the piece is to to keep moisture away from the bolts and dress up the front appearance of the bike. I first tried gluing this with some clear silicon, but was not too happy with the result. Since this is one of those un-obtainium parts, I decided to see what I could fab.
This old piece of floor mat is similar in density and thickness.
Applied the piece to the belt sander to achieve the correct thickness.
A scrap of pipe with the end ground to a bevel allowed me to punch an appropriate hole.
After some more work with an exacto knife and the belt sander, I came up with a piece I thought would work.
And, installed.
OP
Jeff Ivers
Well-known member
March 1 was unseasonably warm after a very cold spell, so decided I would get the bike out for a ride. About 2 miles into the ride, I had turned onto a sidewalk with no apparent obstacles or obstructions (a route I have rode many times). The next thing I knew some guy was standing over me and asking if I needed help. Managed to get to my feet, determine some things were caddy wampus with the handlebars, get out the tool kit and make adjustments and tighten and then rode back home. Showered and got into some street clothes and headed to the urgent care who then sent me to the emergency room. Four facial fractures and a right arm bruised from the wrist to half way from the elbow to shoulder. Today, I tracked down the person who offered assistance and confirmed I was apparently out cold for an indeterminate period of time.
The sad part is that I don't know what happened so that I can avoid that in the future (unless I quit riding). The only thing I can think, is that for some reason I applied the front brake too hard or it locked and I rotated into the air and then dropped. But that doesn't quite explain why I landed on my face and right arm.
Needless to say, I haven't got much shop time in lately - dealing with a restricted (soft) diet and a right arm that has very little strength back yet.
So far, I have not found anything seriously wrong with the bike - just a few scratches.
Anyone know anything about recumbents? Are they any safer?
The sad part is that I don't know what happened so that I can avoid that in the future (unless I quit riding). The only thing I can think, is that for some reason I applied the front brake too hard or it locked and I rotated into the air and then dropped. But that doesn't quite explain why I landed on my face and right arm.
Needless to say, I haven't got much shop time in lately - dealing with a restricted (soft) diet and a right arm that has very little strength back yet.
So far, I have not found anything seriously wrong with the bike - just a few scratches.
Anyone know anything about recumbents? Are they any safer?
RickP
Well-known member
On man, that accident sounds brutal.
I hope you're able to recover quickly!
I hope you're able to recover quickly!
Prospecter
Well-known member
Wow! Glad you are taking care of yourself. Must be frustrating.
Jayman17
Well-known member
Ouch, sorry to hear of your accident. Heal up quick!
gatewaysysop
Well-known member
I'm sure the crashes are less severe and less likely to cause serious injury. I'm also sure that since motorists can hardly see regular bicycles, you're taking your life in your hands whenever you ride one alongside traffic. I might be biased in saying this, because Arizona is in the top ten states for killing bicyclists. I realize it's anecdotal, but I can count on one hand the folks I've seen testing their luck on recumbent bikes on the roads, probably because they know the statistics and prefer not to hedge in favor of becoming one.
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Jeff Ivers
Well-known member
Thank you. Me too - I miss shop time.
Thankful I was able to ride away, but hate down time.
Thank you.
Years ago, my wife and I tried the across Oklahoma bike ride, called Free Wheel, twice. We completed it one and a half times as the first year a blowing empty water bottle caused a wreck that took both of us out. During those rides, I saw so many examples of inattentive and even antagonistic vehicle drivers (beer bottles thrown at riders) that I avoid riding on public roads except those with designated bike lanes or in quiet neighborhoods. This area has a wonderful trail system, but most of my rides these days are a Sunday morning jaunt to pick up the paper and some pastries to enjoy while working the puzzles in the paper - part of my program to stay mentally alert. I appreciate your comments on recumbents. The 2-wheel recumbents look like they might be harder to balance at my age and the 3-wheelers are making me wonder if I could navigate the sidewalks I sometimes have to rely on to avoid traffic.
Anyone with recumbent experience, please chime in.
Wishing you a quick recovery Jeff...
Wife crashed her bike last week going around a corner - the front tire hit a small patch of mud and she went down on her right arm and shoulder pretty hard. Thankfully it she only ended up with some good size bruises and a few scratches.
IMO, early spring is always the most dangerous time of year to be on two wheels. You haven't ridden for months, so you are out of practice. You are happy to finally be out in the nice weather so it's easy to get distracted from the task at hand. Finally, while IA might be different from OK in this regard, there are a lot of seasonal debris (sand, mud, leaves, etc.) on the paths and roads that haven't been washed away by the spring rains yet.
Wife crashed her bike last week going around a corner - the front tire hit a small patch of mud and she went down on her right arm and shoulder pretty hard. Thankfully it she only ended up with some good size bruises and a few scratches.
IMO, early spring is always the most dangerous time of year to be on two wheels. You haven't ridden for months, so you are out of practice. You are happy to finally be out in the nice weather so it's easy to get distracted from the task at hand. Finally, while IA might be different from OK in this regard, there are a lot of seasonal debris (sand, mud, leaves, etc.) on the paths and roads that haven't been washed away by the spring rains yet.
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Jeff Ivers
Well-known member
Thank you. Sorry to hear about your wife's crash. I have actually been able to ride almost year round. I don't ride in the rain or when the temp is below about 45 degrees. So, sometimes I go a few weeks between rides.
Based on my research and what little I remember, I have to conclude I did something stupid. I think I must have locked up the front wheel brake, pivoted up in the air and then dropped to the ground on my face and right arm. I know not to apply the front brake harder than the rear so I am going through the bike very carefully to examine braking surface and pads and brake adjustment. Since the last ride, I had cleaned the bike using bike polish, including the rims. There is no warning on the polish can to not use on rims, but perhaps this contributed to brake grabbing? I am going to clean the rim brake surfaces very carefully with rubbing alcohol, examine the pads, and adjust the brakes to try to prevent me from locking the front wheel, but still have effective brakes. I ordered a new quill/stem, because I now have some side-to-side slop in the original.
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Jeff Ivers
Well-known member
Haven't posted much for a while. Had a bike wreck on March 1. Went to Urgent Care, they sent me to emergency room, they referred me to primary care for followup and to facial surgeon for followup. Told everyone this feels like when I broke my left elbow in a bike wreck 25 years ago. Two sets of x-rays were taken and reviewed - verdict was no breaks (arm). Four weeks after accident and following a complaint to my primary care doc that the arm was not getting better and was getting worse, I was referred to an orthopedic surgeon. Third set of x-rays taken and reviewed - verdict radial fracture of the right elbow. On went a removal cast for 4 weeks, which I am finally free of. I am on the mend now, but still do not have full strength in the right arm. But, I can now type on the keyboard without a major hassle.
There is some part of me that is still a kid and I have always liked Hot Wheels/Matchbox cars. Years ago, I started collecting Lotus, then Corvette, and sports cars from my college age era. Back in 2005, I bought a cabinet for my home office in which to display my collection. I replaced the wood shelves with glass shelves I had made. Then, in 2008, I added some LED puck lights in the top of the cabinet. Recently I opened the cabinet and discovered I had some accumulation of dust (probably hadn't cleaned inside since 2008). The glass doors do an excellent job of keeping dust off the collection. But, it was now time to remove everything, clean and reposition my collection. That led to realizing the puck lights were no longer lighting the cabinet well and needed replacing.
The new lighting consists of 6 LED strips and does a pretty good job of illuminating my entire collection. While I was at it, I thinned my collection by 45 cars which are now advertised for sale.
I have finally been able to get out and start catching up on some of the spring yard work on my 5 acres. Went down to mow the woods for the first time this year and had a gauge wheel break off the mower deck. Couldn't find the metal bit I needed to weld back on the deck, so I got out the metal detector and started hunting. Before I found the missing part, I found the item below. Measures about 4.75" outside diameter and is made of about 5/8 rod. Is this some type of rigging for unloading items with a crane?
There is some part of me that is still a kid and I have always liked Hot Wheels/Matchbox cars. Years ago, I started collecting Lotus, then Corvette, and sports cars from my college age era. Back in 2005, I bought a cabinet for my home office in which to display my collection. I replaced the wood shelves with glass shelves I had made. Then, in 2008, I added some LED puck lights in the top of the cabinet. Recently I opened the cabinet and discovered I had some accumulation of dust (probably hadn't cleaned inside since 2008). The glass doors do an excellent job of keeping dust off the collection. But, it was now time to remove everything, clean and reposition my collection. That led to realizing the puck lights were no longer lighting the cabinet well and needed replacing.
The new lighting consists of 6 LED strips and does a pretty good job of illuminating my entire collection. While I was at it, I thinned my collection by 45 cars which are now advertised for sale.
I have finally been able to get out and start catching up on some of the spring yard work on my 5 acres. Went down to mow the woods for the first time this year and had a gauge wheel break off the mower deck. Couldn't find the metal bit I needed to weld back on the deck, so I got out the metal detector and started hunting. Before I found the missing part, I found the item below. Measures about 4.75" outside diameter and is made of about 5/8 rod. Is this some type of rigging for unloading items with a crane?
Prospecter
Well-known member
Great to see you back, Jeff. You've been missed. Sorry to hear about the accident. Rough road, literally and figuratively. So annoying that our bodies are not as young as our brains!
Love your collection and display case.
Love your collection and display case.
Prospecter
Well-known member
We also have variations on rings about that size. The most I have been able to guess is that like you, they are some kind of rigging. Possibly to increase force, like bullies. But I don't really know.
OP
Jeff Ivers
Well-known member
After some cleanup with a powered wire brush:
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Jeff Ivers
Well-known member
It's been a bit over 4 months since my bike wreck. I am still doing physical therapy, but feel like I am back to full range of motion and close to full strength. Been thinking about getting back on the bike for a couple of weeks, so the last couple of days I have worked on the bike to see if there was anything that needed tweaking to help prevent a repeat of the wreck.
Now the bike wreck was clearly my fault - I do my own maintenance and I was the rider when I went down, probably due to a locked front wheel. Today, I discovered what I think is a significant contributing factor to the wreck.
On top is a new brake pad and the bottom is the one I removed from the front of the bike.
Here is a view of the wear surface. I do not remember ever replacing brake pads on this bike that I have had since 1999. The bike has at least 2000 miles on it. I did a number of google searches with various phrases trying to determine if worn brake pads could cause wheel lock up without much success. I did find info that indicated squealing brakes might indicate worn out pads and grabbing brakes might indicate worn out pads. I had experienced both of these symptoms before the wreck, but failed to recognize the significance. So new pads both front and rear and then I climbed on for a bit of a ride up and down the driveway. No squealing. I could apply the front brake only without any grabbing.
There are others on this forum that know a lot more about bikes than I do, but I think worn out pads helped cause my accident and I will be paying a lot more attention to their condition in the future.
Now the bike wreck was clearly my fault - I do my own maintenance and I was the rider when I went down, probably due to a locked front wheel. Today, I discovered what I think is a significant contributing factor to the wreck.
On top is a new brake pad and the bottom is the one I removed from the front of the bike.
Here is a view of the wear surface. I do not remember ever replacing brake pads on this bike that I have had since 1999. The bike has at least 2000 miles on it. I did a number of google searches with various phrases trying to determine if worn brake pads could cause wheel lock up without much success. I did find info that indicated squealing brakes might indicate worn out pads and grabbing brakes might indicate worn out pads. I had experienced both of these symptoms before the wreck, but failed to recognize the significance. So new pads both front and rear and then I climbed on for a bit of a ride up and down the driveway. No squealing. I could apply the front brake only without any grabbing.
There are others on this forum that know a lot more about bikes than I do, but I think worn out pads helped cause my accident and I will be paying a lot more attention to their condition in the future.
Prospecter
Well-known member
Good information, and glad to hear you are up and about, and getting back on the horse that threw you. You have been missed.It's been a bit over 4 months since my bike wreck. I am still doing physical therapy, but feel like I am back to full range of motion and close to full strength. Been thinking about getting back on the bike for a couple of weeks, so the last couple of days I have worked on the bike to see if there was anything that needed tweaking to help prevent a repeat of the wreck.
Now the bike wreck was clearly my fault - I do my own maintenance and I was the rider when I went down, probably due to a locked front wheel. Today, I discovered what I think is a significant contributing factor to the wreck.
On top is a new brake pad and the bottom is the one I removed from the front of the bike.
Here is a view of the wear surface. I do not remember ever replacing brake pads on this bike that I have had since 1999. The bike has at least 2000 miles on it. I did a number of google searches with various phrases trying to determine if worn brake pads could cause wheel lock up without much success. I did find info that indicated squealing brakes might indicate worn out pads and grabbing brakes might indicate worn out pads. I had experienced both of these symptoms before the wreck, but failed to recognize the significance. So new pads both front and rear and then I climbed on for a bit of a ride up and down the driveway. No squealing. I could apply the front brake only without any grabbing.
There are others on this forum that know a lot more about bikes than I do, but I think worn out pads helped cause my accident and I will be paying a lot more attention to their condition in the future.
OP
Jeff Ivers
Well-known member
Thanks, Prospecter. Went on an 8 mile ride this morning with absolutely no problems.
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Jeff Ivers
Well-known member
Since the high temps have been hoovering in the mid 90s, I am definitely in my summer activity pattern. For the past several mornings, it was outside to run the brush cutter for a while and then onto the tractor to mow or into the shop to maintain the mower deck. The left front gauge wheel was about to break off again, so it needed to be re-welded. That led to discovering the drive belt was badly worn, a deck reinforcement strip bolted to the bottom edge of the front of the deck was badly bent and the right front gauge wheel was bent back.
Took care of the in-shop tasks and then, this morning, I backed the tractor out on the drive to remove the mower deck to change the belt.
That is when a series of "why did it do that"s happened. The mower deck is removed on my BX2380 by installing some ramps on the deck, extending the ramps to the ground and the slowly backing off the deck. First WDIDT was when I started backing off and the deck skewed to about a 45 degree angle. Re-aligned everything and tried again. This time I got off the deck, but only after the deck skewed again (not as bad) and one of the tires drove over part of the deck instead of staying on the ramps. Hope no damage was done.
Changed the belt without too much drama. By this time it was starting to warm up, so I decided I would forgo the brush cutting and install the box blade and front-end loader and work on the driveway a bit.
Can't remember when I last had the box blade on. The second WDIDT had to do with trying to get the bits of the "rapid mount/dismount" system to line up enough to attach the box blade. Finally accomplished that and went to install the front-end loader.
On my BX2380, I remove the FEL every time I mow and reinstall it before putting the tractor away in the barn. Every once in a while the FEL wants to argue with me about going back on the tractor - the third WDIDT of the day. This time, after several attempts, I finally got it on without any damage.
Took a few passes on the driveway and put the rig away to continue tomorrow morning. Then it was in the house for a late shower/shave, lunch and the Friday linens/laundry routine.
Enough heat for one day!
Took care of the in-shop tasks and then, this morning, I backed the tractor out on the drive to remove the mower deck to change the belt.
That is when a series of "why did it do that"s happened. The mower deck is removed on my BX2380 by installing some ramps on the deck, extending the ramps to the ground and the slowly backing off the deck. First WDIDT was when I started backing off and the deck skewed to about a 45 degree angle. Re-aligned everything and tried again. This time I got off the deck, but only after the deck skewed again (not as bad) and one of the tires drove over part of the deck instead of staying on the ramps. Hope no damage was done.
Changed the belt without too much drama. By this time it was starting to warm up, so I decided I would forgo the brush cutting and install the box blade and front-end loader and work on the driveway a bit.
Can't remember when I last had the box blade on. The second WDIDT had to do with trying to get the bits of the "rapid mount/dismount" system to line up enough to attach the box blade. Finally accomplished that and went to install the front-end loader.
On my BX2380, I remove the FEL every time I mow and reinstall it before putting the tractor away in the barn. Every once in a while the FEL wants to argue with me about going back on the tractor - the third WDIDT of the day. This time, after several attempts, I finally got it on without any damage.
Took a few passes on the driveway and put the rig away to continue tomorrow morning. Then it was in the house for a late shower/shave, lunch and the Friday linens/laundry routine.
Enough heat for one day!
RickP
Well-known member
All those WDIDTs in one day -- so frustrating! Sounds like you got out of the heat at just the right time.
I hear you on the FEL woes -- I have to fight with mine almost every time it goes on. (Although my tractor doesn't have a mower deck, so the FEL doesn't come off nearly as often as yours.) There's something a bit intimidating (at least for me) about fighting to align a bunch of steel that's taller than me and outweighs me by 600 lbs! So I just always think about the "get a bigger hammer" expression and hit it harder.
Prospecter
Well-known member
I also identify with tractor woes. My JD790 FEL is only quick attach in theory. I leave mine on for bush hogging the field to offset the weight of the bush hog, but your mower is center mount, so no need to offset the weight. My Kubota (15hp) is a little smaller, and no FEL. It came with a center mount mower, but too old for the ramp feature. I need to use my engine lift on the front bumper. Not too bad now that I have the routine down, but not convenient. We do a lot of work to keep our places up to snuff, and tractors are a big help.
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Jeff Ivers
Well-known member
I agree. Crazy thing is I can take off the FEL and put it back on with no problems half a dozen times in a row and then the next time it argues with me.
Amen to the "lot of work". Managed to finish dragging the drive this morning. Got the box blade dismounted and put away. Got the new deck belt on and everything lubed. Next, I will see if the deck will go back on so I am ready for the next mowing session.
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Jeff Ivers
Well-known member
I have pretty much quit thinking about recumbent bikes. I have gone on bike rides at least once a week for the past month with absolutely no problems. When I apply the brakes with the new pads, the bike just gradually slows down as it should - even if I only apply the front brake. My confidence has been restored.
It seems like I have not found time to pursue an interesting project in the shop for several months and I am missing it. I go out there to retrieve the weed eater or brush cutter or to make a quick repair on the mower deck.
I have been able to find a few cooler days when I could engage in my metal detecting hobby. Went to one out of town school yard 2 weeks in a row. In about 5 hrs of detecting, I retrieved 184 coins with a face value of $14.21. I am amazed at the amount of money lost in this country. That was one of my most fun hunts in that I was averaging a retrieval about every 90 seconds. I sometimes frequent treasure hunting forums or watch UT videos and find myself somewhat envious of hunters in these locations where they regularly find $1 and $2 coins. As we all know $1 coins in the US are pretty rare. In just under 4 years of hunting, I just found my 12th $1 coin.
A large portion of my time has been spent on oil and gas royalty issues. In 2021, I was contacted by someone wanting to purchase my mineral rights in Texas - wait, what mineral rights? I determined that a step mother-in-law (died in 2002) had left all un-named property to my sister-in-law and my wife (died in 2004). The S MIL had acquired mineral rights in 1950 in her maiden name. Later, she had married my divorced FIL and after his death married again a few years later. I discovered royalties had been escheated to Texas Unclaimed Property and went through the process of claiming those funds. Then, I contacted the current O&G producer, Pioneer Natural Resources, and inquired if they had any of the three names of the S MIL on their payment books and how to go about changing their records to the rightful heirs (SIL and myself). They proceeded to change ownership on the holdings in the maiden name of the S MIL and made no mention of holdings in any other names of the same person. My SIL and I have been receiving royalties for over 2 years now. In the meantime, I was contacted about ownership of a different royalty deed and got my SIL and I on the pay list with a different company. Then, a few months ago, I started finding evidence that PNR was still carrying the S MIL on their books under a married name, and were escheating funds to Louisiana Unclaimed Property. I have recovered the LaUP funds and have finally gotten the attention of PNR to make the additional changes to get all the properties changed to ownership by my SIL and myself. I am very grateful for this unexpected revenue, but the hassle factor has been huge.
In order to get the attention of these producers, one must send mail certified with return receipt requested. The producers and the tax appraisal agencies also send mail CRRR. In the past year, 5 out of 5 times that I received CRRR mail, the carrier failed to attempt to deliver the mail to me, simply leaving a notice in the mailbox. Out of the 2 most recent CRRR mailings I sent, I received one return post card that was unsigned.
I wonder why they insist on using/demanding the use of a service that is not provided according to the promised level of service. The O&G producers insist on sending out Division Orders that must be signed and returned before they will place a recipient in pay status. They send these documents out with a place for the recipients signature and require the signature of a witness. To what purpose? This witness signature is not printed out (no contact info requested) and it is not a notarized signature - how could anyone ever track down this "witness" for verification purposes? I have traditionally gone to my bank to get items notarized, but the bank will not let their employees sign as a witness. I have gone to the local AAA office where I am a member for this service.
Anyway, the point of interest to readers is that mineral rights that once paid only a few pennys or dollars a year can be worth pursuing because of all the horizontal drilling that is going on. If you have relatives that might have owned mineral royalties, be sure to check Unclaimed Property funds in any state they may have resided in.
Maybe one of these days I will be able to post a pic of an interesting project.
It seems like I have not found time to pursue an interesting project in the shop for several months and I am missing it. I go out there to retrieve the weed eater or brush cutter or to make a quick repair on the mower deck.
I have been able to find a few cooler days when I could engage in my metal detecting hobby. Went to one out of town school yard 2 weeks in a row. In about 5 hrs of detecting, I retrieved 184 coins with a face value of $14.21. I am amazed at the amount of money lost in this country. That was one of my most fun hunts in that I was averaging a retrieval about every 90 seconds. I sometimes frequent treasure hunting forums or watch UT videos and find myself somewhat envious of hunters in these locations where they regularly find $1 and $2 coins. As we all know $1 coins in the US are pretty rare. In just under 4 years of hunting, I just found my 12th $1 coin.
A large portion of my time has been spent on oil and gas royalty issues. In 2021, I was contacted by someone wanting to purchase my mineral rights in Texas - wait, what mineral rights? I determined that a step mother-in-law (died in 2002) had left all un-named property to my sister-in-law and my wife (died in 2004). The S MIL had acquired mineral rights in 1950 in her maiden name. Later, she had married my divorced FIL and after his death married again a few years later. I discovered royalties had been escheated to Texas Unclaimed Property and went through the process of claiming those funds. Then, I contacted the current O&G producer, Pioneer Natural Resources, and inquired if they had any of the three names of the S MIL on their payment books and how to go about changing their records to the rightful heirs (SIL and myself). They proceeded to change ownership on the holdings in the maiden name of the S MIL and made no mention of holdings in any other names of the same person. My SIL and I have been receiving royalties for over 2 years now. In the meantime, I was contacted about ownership of a different royalty deed and got my SIL and I on the pay list with a different company. Then, a few months ago, I started finding evidence that PNR was still carrying the S MIL on their books under a married name, and were escheating funds to Louisiana Unclaimed Property. I have recovered the LaUP funds and have finally gotten the attention of PNR to make the additional changes to get all the properties changed to ownership by my SIL and myself. I am very grateful for this unexpected revenue, but the hassle factor has been huge.
In order to get the attention of these producers, one must send mail certified with return receipt requested. The producers and the tax appraisal agencies also send mail CRRR. In the past year, 5 out of 5 times that I received CRRR mail, the carrier failed to attempt to deliver the mail to me, simply leaving a notice in the mailbox. Out of the 2 most recent CRRR mailings I sent, I received one return post card that was unsigned.
I wonder why they insist on using/demanding the use of a service that is not provided according to the promised level of service. The O&G producers insist on sending out Division Orders that must be signed and returned before they will place a recipient in pay status. They send these documents out with a place for the recipients signature and require the signature of a witness. To what purpose? This witness signature is not printed out (no contact info requested) and it is not a notarized signature - how could anyone ever track down this "witness" for verification purposes? I have traditionally gone to my bank to get items notarized, but the bank will not let their employees sign as a witness. I have gone to the local AAA office where I am a member for this service.
Anyway, the point of interest to readers is that mineral rights that once paid only a few pennys or dollars a year can be worth pursuing because of all the horizontal drilling that is going on. If you have relatives that might have owned mineral royalties, be sure to check Unclaimed Property funds in any state they may have resided in.
Maybe one of these days I will be able to post a pic of an interesting project.
Time for a new bike!
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24K Gold Men’s Racing Bike | Goldgenie Luxury Edition
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