Between 705 & 1200 SQ/FT DIY Shop

[Jeff Ivers]

I recently redid some landscape lighting in front of the shop. As part of the process, I replaced the wire because what was out there had become extremely hard with age. Tried to strip some of it for recycling using the old manual methods I have used in the past with no success. The insulation was too stiff to slit with consistency and If I did get it slit, I could not spread it apart to extract the wire. So, I decided to try a wire stripping machine.


I picked this up for about $30. I had a couple of short lengths of solid and stranded wire on the workbench and, right out of the box, it stripped them great. So, I turned my attention to the landscape wire that I had already separated into separate strands instead of lamp-cord like double strand.

This is what happens if the blade is set too deep.

Once I got the blade depth right, it would slit the wire, but the insulation was so stiff I could not successfully remove the wire.

I discovered if I ran the wire through a second time at about a 90 degree angle to the first slit, I would end up with enough insulation removed that I could remove the wire. Sometimes the wire would want to twist on me and not maintain the 90 degree separation, so sometimes I fed the wire through a 3rd or 4th time. I also found that it was a lot easier if I worked on 4' or less lengths at a time.

 

[Prospecter]

I like it! I also deconstruct stuff for recycling, but wire is generally my nemesis. I'll need to try this.

 

[rharman]

@Jeff Ivers - Pretty amazing how rock hard that wire can get, huh? I'm always amazed when I need to do any maintenance on my landscape lights and encounter it. I've resorted to using a heat gun to soften it a couple of times.

 

[Jeff Ivers]

@Jeff Ivers - Pretty amazing how rock hard that wire can get, huh? I'm always amazed when I need to do any maintenance on my landscape lights and encounter it. I've resorted to using a heat gun to soften it a couple of times.

Amen to the amazing part. That heat gun sounds like a great idea for spot repair.

 

[Jeff Ivers]

On Christmas eve, I ordered some parts to refresh my 2011 Silverado with just shy of 95,000 miles.

The condition of the left seat bolster and that blemish on the side just in front of the seatbelt is what prompted the action.

Amazing what accumulates under a seat over 15 years.

Ah, that is much better.

The back of the seat all buttoned back up.


The front of the seat all buttoned back up.

All done and looking much better. Total time for job just under 3 hours. Highly recommend the Seat Shop out of Plano TX for matching or exceeding original equipment materials and quality.

Hope everyone had a great Christmas and wising all the very best in 2026.

 

[Jeff Ivers]

A couple of days ago I pulled the Kubota in to perform a repair I have to do once or twice a year.

Weld one of the gauge wheels back on - this time the left front.

Next, I turned my attention to my Z-Lynk headphones for my metal detector. After 4 years of use, the ear pads started de-laminating.

Removed the old ear pads, one at a time, to install new pads. Those pegs are attached to a thin plastic piece that snaps into the earpad to attach the ear pad to the headset. Even though I removed that plastic piece from the thin side of the pad, for some reason I got it in my head that the piece needed to be inserted from the thick side of the pad. That worked on the left pad.

Then I tried to do the right pad and cracked the plastic piece. I applied JB Plastic weld and clamped the piece down on a piece of wax paper over a scrap of wood. I then cut an old credit card into re-enforcing pieces.

More JB Plastic Weld and some spring clamps to hold things till they dry.

All back together!

A number of years ago I was having air compressor issues after already doing some repairs to the compressor and decided I needed to splurge on a new compressor. I stripped everything off the old compressor and sold the tank to recoup some of the money. The compressor and motor have been sitting in my barn awaiting me to get fired up to see if I could learn anything by dis-assembling them. Unfortunately, I did not check to see if there were markings on the compressor that might allow me to order rebuild parts. So, I started dis-assembling this and think it might have been salvageable if I had known how to take it apart properly and had a source of parts. So, I am in the process of completely taking it apart to separate aluminum from steel components for recycling. I'll try to post pics later.

 

[Prospecter]

A couple of days ago I pulled the Kubota in to perform a repair I have to do once or twice a year.

Weld one of the gauge wheels back on - this time the left front.

Next, I turned my attention to my Z-Lynk headphones for my metal detector. After 4 years of use, the ear pads started de-laminating.

Removed the old ear pads, one at a time, to install new pads. Those pegs are attached to a thin plastic piece that snaps into the earpad to attach the ear pad to the headset. Even though I removed that plastic piece from the thin side of the pad, for some reason I got it in my head that the piece needed to be inserted from the thick side of the pad. That worked on the left pad.

Then I tried to do the right pad and cracked the plastic piece. I applied JB Plastic weld and clamped the piece down on a piece of wax paper over a scrap of wood. I then cut an old credit card into re-enforcing pieces.

More JB Plastic Weld and some spring clamps to hold things till they dry.

All back together!

A number of years ago I was having air compressor issues after already doing some repairs to the compressor and decided I needed to splurge on a new compressor. I stripped everything off the old compressor and sold the tank to recoup some of the money. The compressor and motor have been sitting in my barn awaiting me to get fired up to see if I could learn anything by dis-assembling them. Unfortunately, I did not check to see if there were markings on the compressor that might allow me to order rebuild parts. So, I started dis-assembling this and think it might have been salvageable if I had known how to take it apart properly and had a source of parts. So, I am in the process of completely taking it apart to separate aluminum from steel components for recycling. I'll try to post pics later.

Love the headset fix. Good solution.

Nice weld. One of those belly mowers came with my Kubota, but never use it, because I like my zero turn for mowing. My JD and Toro ZTs bend sometimes, but haven't broken yet. I wonder if the issue is the leverage that post has on the bracket? The decks I am using have the wheel bolted directly to the bracket.

Laughed about the compressor. Exactly what I would do!

 

[Jeff Ivers]

Love the headset fix. Good solution.

Nice weld. One of those belly mowers came with my Kubota, but never use it, because I like my zero turn for mowing. My JD and Toro ZTs bend sometimes, but haven't broken yet. I wonder if the issue is the leverage that post has on the bracket? The decks I am using have the wheel bolted directly to the bracket.

Laughed about the compressor. Exactly what I would do!

Yes, I am sure the leverage is a big part of the problem with the gauge wheels. Also, I discovered from experience that they recommend the wheels be set too low. The other problem is all the blasted gopher/mole holes and the heaved up tree roots. I have been working on eliminating the heaved roots, but I am not sure more don't appear as fast as the ones I have removed. I do not envy all the snow and ice you have been dealing with.

 

[Prospecter]

I don't mind the snow at all. It reflects on sunny days, and acts like a good feeling drug, except that it is legal. We've had a stretch of ice, but usually I can stay ahead of it. And no bugs, and no mowing or raking. So I'm good.

 

[Jeff Ivers]

Here are the pictures of the compressor I disassembled for recycling purposes. If I had known more about these, I think I might have only removed the parts in pictures 1 and 4 and cleaned/replaced the valves (if I could have found parts) and I think it might have given a few more years of service. The only thing that I could find that appeared "off" was the carbon around the valves. No wear found on rod bearings or bushings or crank bearings. Cylinders also appeared in good condition. There is sludge in the bottom of the crankcase.

In order to get this apart, I had to go tool shopping. The rod bolts were 6 mm allen head. I had a 6 mm allen wrench and a 1/4" drive 6 mm allen socket. Neither one would break the bolts loose and I did not want to put a 1/2" breaker bar on a 1/4" socket. Went looking for a 1/2" drive 6 mm allen impact socket, but the only way I could find one was to buy a $35 set. I settled for a 3/8" drive 6 mm allen socket and with a 1/2" breaker bar adapted down to 3/8" drive, I got the job done.

I assume that if one disassembles a compressor to this level, the rods and pistons have to be attached to the crank and then the cylinder attached with the rings on both pistons compressed at the same time. Anyone know if this is correct and if a special dual piston compressor tool is required? Is anything here of value other than the iron in the iron recycle pile and the aluminum in the aluminum recycle pile?

 

[Jeff Ivers]

Before the big snow storm hit, I finished disassembling the compressor and cleaning up the components for recycling - after this pic, I removed rings, bearings and bushings.

The big snow storm for this area was forecast to dump 10 to 14" of snow (11 days ago). Certainly not complaining, but at my house it only amounted to about 5". Still enough to require dealing with along with bitter cold temps. I cleared the concrete driveway between my house and the gravel drive and the sidewalk and front porch so I could carry in firewood as needed. Instead of getting the Kubota out and using the FEL to clear the gravel, I decided to use my SXS to "dress" the driveway. I drove up and down the driveway, moving over a bit on each pass until all the snow had been compacted with the knobby tires. This provided sufficient traction to navigate the drive and was faster and easier. As of today, the last of the snow is melted - Yea!

After the first session outside with the snow shovel, I came in and removed my boots, only to have the sole of the boot separate about 3/4 the way.

I pulled the sole the rest of the way off, cleaned the surfaces and used Shoe Goo to reattach. This is my clamping arrangement. I seem to have a solid bond, but have not tried them on yet.

Next up is tending to my tax filing - no shop time for that.

 

[Jeff Ivers]

After going to the trouble of replacing the ear pads on my metal detecting headset, twice when I got to a detecting site the headphones would not turn on, even though they had been left on the charger after the previous trip until the charge indicator light went off and then were unplugged until next trip. Obviously, the internal battery is not holding charge or a parasitic drain has developed. Since the battery is not user serviceable (according to manufacturer), I ordered a new set. When I got the new set I decided to move the replacement ear pads to the new headset (softer) and see if I could explore the possibility of fixing the old set.

On one ear piece there are four small phillips screws that can be removed to access the speaker and volume control - no battery. On the other ear piece I found this - 4 screws that appear to be allen head smaller than .050 inch which is the smallest allen I have in any of my tool sets. I haven't figured out any way to measure these to determine if they are SAE or Metric. I have determined that there are 2 metric and 2 SAE allen wrench sizes smaller than .050" but I have to buy 2 sets of allen wrenches to obtain them. Long gone are the days when you could go to the hardware store and buy just one allen wrench the size you need.

On the warmer days, I have been spending time in the barn going through stuff stored down there and dividing it between donate, recycle, and discard. Made some progress - trash bin filled twice and 8 storage totes emptied. But, of course, that sent me down a rabbit hole - there were some tools that I had set aside for garage sale before I gave up on having garage sales. The rabbit hole was that some of the tools had been attacked by the moist air and I can't stand seeing a good tool decay. So those got hauled up to the shop to clean up.


Most of the clean up of the tools is done on my wire wheel and buffer wheel. That is when this buffer failed like the previous same model I had. Each one lasted about 6 years before failing by having the cast iron base break. (I documented this on a separate thread).

I used JB Weld to repair both machines and put one back in service for the time being. Since I don't know how long my repairs will hold, I decided to acquire this:


This Rikon runs at half the speed of the Eastwood and I think that may reduce the vibration problems that caused the failure. Of course, the base is much larger than the top of my stand and therefore I need an adapter plate.


Had this chunk of aluminum sitting around the shop (no recollection of when I acquired it or for what), but a piece of that should work (it is about 1/2" thick.


This 8" by 10" piece I cut out will be my adapter plate. Used an air saw and my cordless jigsaw to cut it out. Only took me about 2.5 hours to do - but, hey, I did not ruin any blades. Too bad I don't have a metal cutting blade for my bandsaw.

 

[Jeff Ivers]

Today, I finished my adapter plate and trial fit it on the stand. Now it is off to the hardware store for a pair of 3/8" by 2.5" bolts for securing the buffer - can't believe I didn't have anything suitable in stock. After that I will remove the buffer and plate and re-install the first of the repaired Eastwood buffers - curious how long the repairs will hold.

 

[bdbecker]

...Now it is off to the hardware store for a pair of 3/8" by 2.5" bolts for securing the buffer - can't believe I didn't have anything suitable in stock...

That's the story of my life. I have my hardware neatly organized into bins for easy access, but I always seem to be a 1/2" short or a few nuts shy of having exactly what I need for a project. I must have distinct look of frustration on my face when it comes to not having the right hardware on hand because Wife seems to know why I'm grabbing my coat and keys. She'll ask "Hardware?" as I'm walking towards the door and be right most of the time.

My perception could be biased though... I probably don't remember all the times I do have the right size/quantity of something on hand because it's not an inconvenience.

 

[Jeff Ivers]

I am continuing the process of cleaning out the barn and the ongoing process of selling unused items. Had several calls over the last several days from a person wanting to buy a TV stand I had for sale. I always examine items and make sure they are in good condition before advertising them for sale. So, in preparation for transferring the item, I rolled the stand from the kitchen where it was being stored to the garage. And, in the process, one of the plastic wheels broke! There is a reason I hang onto some of the items I have in the shop! I went down to the shop and found a wheel that looked the same but had a stem coming out the top for insertion in a socket whereas the one on the stand was held on by four screws. A few taps with a hammer and the remains of the old wheel came off and then I pulled my hopeful replacement off the stem and slid it onto the stem held on with 4 screws and tapped it into place. Success! No time for pictures as the party showed up and completed the purchase 5 minutes later.

 

[Prospecter]

Gotta love it when things work out.

 

[Jeff Ivers]

The seasons are changing. I always look forward to the arrival of these each spring.

 

[Jeff Ivers]

I am continuing to use my repaired Eastwood buffer. I am curious to see how long it will hold together before I feel the need to install my new Rikon.

I decided to bite the bullet and order a pair of allen wrench sets that include the sizes less than .050 inches.


Using the .127 mm wrench, I was able to remove the headphone cover and the damaged battery.

This picture shows the new wrench and the removed battery. I spent a couple of hours searching for a replacement battery. The old one is listed as "Minamoto LP753040, 3.7v, 840 mah, about 7x28x40 mm). The Minamoto site does not list this battery. I ordered one with very similar specs, but have to wait a couple of weeks for it to arrive so I can see if a repair can be made.

In the meantime, I have gotten in some metal detecting sessions. I found another Hot Wheels car (always a thrill), which prompted some shop time to disassemble the car for thorough cleaning and re-assembly before it could be displayed.


This is after cleaning. It looks much better than this enlarged picture. I might take it apart and polish the plastic at a later date.

 

[Jeff Ivers]

My refrigerator quit dispensing water, though the ice maker was still working. Did some research and thought the likely problem was a 3 way solenoid, so ordered a replacement. The good news is the replacement went smoothly without making a huge mess. The bad news is the problem was not solved. When I first tried to dispense water after the replacement, I heard water running for a few seconds but nothing came out. Back to the research - grhh!

Taxes - once worked for a guy who said you should never complain about them because they are an indication that you made money to begin with. After doing my own tax returns for 58 years, the last 2 years my return has been initially "corrected" because the state did not credit me with all the estimated tax payments made. Spent last night making copies of the proof of the payments and firing off a correction to their "correction". Aggravating!

 

[Jeff Ivers]

My wife was the gardener in the family and therefore, for the last 22 years, I have been eliminating flower beds, taking steps to reduce landscape maintenance and basically trying to get by with as little effort as possible. This week I decided I had to do something about the landscaped area right in front of the shop. The bark mulch had been floating out of the area every time it rained for quite a while and enough of the bark had turned into dirt on top of the weedblock to allow weeds to take root.

After scraping out the remainder of the bark and pulling the weeds, I removed about 8 buckets of "dirt". I then decided to leave the old weedblock in place and add a new layer on top.

I then installed 24 bags of lava rock and decided to hold the 25th bag till after it has rained a couple of times. Sometimes you get lucky - it started showering just as I pulled the SXS with my tools into the garage. Still a lot of weeding to do in the gravel area and around the tree, but at least I made some progress.

 

[Jeff Ivers]

Yesterday, my replacement batteries (had to buy 2), for my Z-Lynk headphones arrived.


I had to reverse the red and black leads at the plug and then install the new battery. Fortunately, my memory was correct on the orientation of the polarity on the plug since I had failed to take a picture before disconnecting the old battery and the wires came loose from the plug in the process. After installation I was able to turn on headphones and they began trying to pair with the detector. I then placed the headphones on the charger for a couple of hours and nothing smoked. I am somewhat concerned about charging because the online specs for the new battery said charging voltage should be about 4.2 volts. However, the old battery, same voltage, came with a USB charging cable which I used for 4 years and all USB chargers put out 5 to 5.25 volts. I still need to actually take the headphones and metal detector outside and verify they are working.

Cost of repair was $10 for a set of SAE and Metric allen wrenches that included all sizes under .050 inches (The needed wrench was .127mm) and $10 for a pair of batteries, only one needed.

 

[Jeff Ivers]

Last weekend, I spent part of Saturday metal detecting. I usually hit school and park playgrounds. I was really surprised to find the following in an elementary school playground in a small town not far from here.


A Huntsman Special 420 Stainless hunting knife about 2" deep in bark mulch. Hopefully, I (with its removal) prevented the injury of some small child. As with many of the "treasures" I find, I find myself compelled to see if I can return the item to "usable" condition.

First was disassembly and cleaning. Either this had been in ground longer than I first thought, or someone had been in the habit of immersing this in water when cleaning, as the tang is quite pitted.


Sanded and gave the handle 2 coats of butcherblock finish (food safe) and re-assembled with new brass rivets. Still need to work a bit more on sharpening and make a sheath.

 

[Uofime]

Yesterday, my replacement batteries (had to buy 2), for my Z-Lynk headphones arrived.


I had to reverse the red and black leads at the plug and then install the new battery. Fortunately, my memory was correct on the orientation of the polarity on the plug since I had failed to take a picture before disconnecting the old battery and the wires came loose from the plug in the process. After installation I was able to turn on headphones and they began trying to pair with the detector. I then placed the headphones on the charger for a couple of hours and nothing smoked. I am somewhat concerned about charging because the online specs for the new battery said charging voltage should be about 4.2 volts. However, the old battery, same voltage, came with a USB charging cable which I used for 4 years and all USB chargers put out 5 to 5.25 volts. I still need to actually take the headphones and metal detector outside and verify they are working.

Cost of repair was $10 for a set of SAE and Metric allen wrenches that included all sizes under .050 inches (The needed wrench was .127mm) and $10 for a pair of batteries, only one needed.

There should be a charge controller built into the device. Occasionally they can also be built into the battery, though I’ve never seen it on a little lipo pack like this.
There are a few ways to check, meter reading on the leads while charging is the easiest. Next would be disassembly of the old pack, but that requires a lot of care and still has some danger involved.

 

[Jeff Ivers]

There should be a charge controller built into the device. Occasionally they can also be built into the battery, though I’ve never seen it on a little lipo pack like this.
There are a few ways to check, meter reading on the leads while charging is the easiest. Next would be disassembly of the old pack, but that requires a lot of care and still has some danger involved.

The battery pack has a circuit board incorporated, opening the possibility that charge control is built into the pack - but if that is the case, why do the specs stipulate a lower charging voltage? If the charge control is built into the headphones, did that fail causing the original battery to fail?

I am not enough of an electrician to know what /how to check for the functioning of the charge control. So, my "test" is to install the new battery pack and charge it and then wait a period of time and try to use the headphones to see if the charge has been retained, then recharge and check that the charging stops when fully charged. If function returns to the state when the headphones were new, I can conclude that replacement of the battery solved the problem. If not, the headphones are toast anyway and I am only out the cost of the battery.

 

[Uofime]

The battery pack has a circuit board incorporated, opening the possibility that charge control is built into the pack - but if that is the case, why do the specs stipulate a lower charging voltage? If the charge control is built into the headphones, did that fail causing the original battery to fail?

I am not enough of an electrician to know what /how to check for the functioning of the charge control. So, my "test" is to install the new battery pack and charge it and then wait a period of time and try to use the headphones to see if the charge has been retained, then recharge and check that the charging stops when fully charged. If function returns to the state when the headphones were new, I can conclude that replacement of the battery solved the problem. If not, the headphones are toast anyway and I am only out the cost of the battery.

Hmmm well then the charge/ discharge protection is likely built into the pack and is likely not on the device board. You really want a replacement pack that is made the same. There is a chance it is redundant, but I’d say that wasn’t high (I’ve already been wrong once already here though haha). As far as monitoring if the device has charge control circuitry you just measure voltage in parallel with the cell at various states of charge while plugged in. While fully charged, battery at over 4.2v not plugged in you shouldn’t see 5V when plugged in if it has charge control circuitry on the device PCB.

 

[Jeff Ivers]

Hmmm well then the charge/ discharge protection is likely built into the pack and is likely not on the device board. You really want a replacement pack that is made the same. There is a chance it is redundant, but I’d say that wasn’t high (I’ve already been wrong once already here though haha). As far as monitoring if the device has charge control circuitry you just measure voltage in parallel with the cell at various states of charge while plugged in. While fully charged, battery at over 4.2v not plugged in you shouldn’t see 5V when plugged in if it has charge control circuitry on the device PCB.

If anything I said implied I thought you were wrong, that was unintentional. I appreciate your thoughts on how to check and if I have to take this apart again, I will try your suggestion.

I have been really frustrated with the (my perception) incomplete specs available when trying to shop for a replacement battery. The original manufacturer does not list the specs for the original battery. Also, when removing the cover to the battery, the exposed wiring is very fragile - raising concern that if I tried poking around with probes without both parts of the headset firmly anchored, I could damage the wiring.

 

[RickP]

Also, when removing the cover to the battery, the exposed wiring is very fragile - raising concern that if I tried poking around with probes without both parts of the headset firmly anchored, I could damage the wiring.

I've been very frustrated when trying to repair wiring in headphones before.
Nice work getting yours repaired - hopefully they work!

 

[Jeff Ivers]

The next step for the Huntsman knife I found metal detecting was a sheath. Of course the goal was to use existing materials. Sure glad I cut the tops off a pair of boots I threw away years ago.

My first thought was to use a heavier piece of scrap for belt loops like I did on my metal detecting digger sheath, but I did not like the way this was coming out.

I decided I wanted to try saddle stitching this. My homemade deep clamp made a good substitute for a stitching buck..

I remembered I needed to pause stitching here to allow room to attach a belt loop.

Knife in the sheath.

 

[Prospecter]

I like it! Well executed. Nice stitches. Nice rivets.
That long reach clamp is almost too nice to use.

 

[Jeff Ivers]

I like it! Well executed. Nice stitches. Nice rivets.
That long reach clamp is almost too nice to use.

Thank you. At least now I can handle it without worrying about slicing my hand open. Still need to work some on the blade. The clamp is just one of two I made from some old pallet lumber. They have come in handy a few times.

A few days ago, I had a day that might rival your JD burying day. I was down mowing the woods for the first time this season and started hearing an intermittent rubbing noise - sounded like I had run over a stick that was caught in the deck, so I ignored it. Then "CLUNK" and the mower/tractor died. So it was up to the shop to see what was amiss. There is a metal plate bolted to the underside of the front of the deck and all but one of the attaching bolts had vibrated out and the blades caught it and turned it into a pretzel. Removed the "pretzel" and decided to weld the left front gauge wheel back on after it had broken a few weeks earlier.

So down to the woods to finish the job. Mowing along and the right front gauge wheel came off due to a broken axle bolt. Picked up the pieces for repair and continued. A few minutes later, I heard a loud noise and the plastic discharge chute had sheared off a couple of inches from the pivot - absolutely no idea what caused that. Picked up the remnants to throw away in the shop and continued. A few minutes later, I looked down and the right rear gauge wheel was laying on the ground after apparently loosing the pin and "roo" that hold the latch onto the deck. Quit for the day, as I was convinced the engine would fall out next.

Yesterday, I got everything back to together with the exception of straightening the discharge chute opening - off to the shop to do that now.

 

[Prospecter]

Thank you. At least now I can handle it without worrying about slicing my hand open. Still need to work some on the blade. The clamp is just one of two I made from some old pallet lumber. They have come in handy a few times.

A few days ago, I had a day that might rival your JD burying day. I was down mowing the woods for the first time this season and started hearing an intermittent rubbing noise - sounded like I had run over a stick that was caught in the deck, so I ignored it. Then "CLUNK" and the mower/tractor died. So it was up to the shop to see what was amiss. There is a metal plate bolted to the underside of the front of the deck and all but one of the attaching bolts had vibrated out and the blades caught it and turned it into a pretzel. Removed the "pretzel" and decided to weld the left front gauge wheel back on after it had broken a few weeks earlier.

So down to the woods to finish the job. Mowing along and the right front gauge wheel came off due to a broken axle bolt. Picked up the pieces for repair and continued. A few minutes later, I heard a loud noise and the plastic discharge chute had sheared off a couple of inches from the pivot - absolutely no idea what caused that. Picked up the remnants to throw away in the shop and continued. A few minutes later, I looked down and the right rear gauge wheel was laying on the ground after apparently loosing the pin and "roo" that hold the latch onto the deck. Quit for the day, as I was convinced the engine would fall out next.

Yesterday, I got everything back to together with the exception of straightening the discharge chute opening - off to the shop to do that now.

You deserve the trophy! I don't care for mud but nothing like the work you put in!

 

[Jeff Ivers]

I mentioned I had kind of a rough day with the Kubota and RCK60D mower deck.


This is that bar that bolts to the underside of the front of the mower deck. After careful consideration, I decided it would be best to replace the bar. It was held on by 4 M8-1.25 carriage bolts about 3/4" long with standard nuts. I just knew the bolts would be crazy expensive at Kubota, so I first stopped at the Ace Hardware to pick some up. Ace did not have a single metric carriage bolt. So I proceeded to Kubota and ordered the necessary parts, and, while there, inquired about the bolts - over $4 each, nuts separate, of course. So I went to Atwoods looking for the M8 bolts - again, not a single metric carriage bolt. Don't you love progress? So I decided to pick up some substitutes, just in case. 3 5/16x18 carriage bolts - 45 cents! Then, just for giggles, I drove to Tractor Supply and found a package of 3 M8-1.25 bolts about an inch long for a bit over $3. When my ordered parts came in, I bolted the new plate in place using the 3 new carriage bolts and nyloc nuts. The 4th bolt, which may never have been installed , is under the bracket for the front center roller. I could not find a socket or wrench that I could get on a nyloc nut to tighten it on the one remaining original bolt, so I substitued a non carriage bolt with the nyloc nut on the bottom instead of the top.


I tacked on an auxiliary brace to try to prevent the bottom of the front corner of the deck being driven to the rear. Please do not comment on my welds, as my welding helmet (auto darkening was going out) - new helmet ordered.


Lastly, I installed my new discharge chute. Everything held together for a couple of afternoons of mowing, so, yesterday, I decided to spend most the day metal detecting.


This was a very pleasant surprise find - only my second gold find in 4 years of MDing.

 

[Jeff Ivers]

While doing the mower repairs, my welding helmet started acting up. It was a Chicago Electric auto dimming with solar recharge. Unfortunately, the batteries were not replaceable and I suspected they were not holding enough charge for the auto dimming to work fast enough. I shopped around and found an Ironton with virtually the same specs except replaceable batteries. I purchased it, but have not yet tried it. The new Ironton is plain black and the CE has some decoration on it.

Then I was reading another thread on here and someone posted about getting just the replacement lens/battery/solar charging assembly. For less than $30, I thought it might be worth it to refurb the CE helmet.



First I had to remove the upper label with the numbers on it, as the new repair unit has a grinding setting and its own label disk.

The small hole had to be enlarged to a size 30 drill bit.

New control installed. Haven't tried the helmet yet, but I am sure it won't be any time till the mower needs more attention.


The above 2 pics show what a driveway looks like 34 years after being built when the contractor uses 1x4 cedar as expansion joints. Yes, the wood rotted away a long time ago. I have tried backer rod and caulk and it did not hold up. I have tried polymeric sand and it looked nice for about a year. I have a new solution in the fermenting stages.

 

[Jeff Ivers]

The first step for any project is to gather the right tools:


In this case, that is my New Britain M104 manual drum brake adjuster wrench.

It seemed the perfect tool to scrape the **** out of the expansion joint slots in the driveway where the wood rotted out years ago. 39' done and 16' to go.

 

[Jeff Ivers]

I got the remaining 16' of slots cleaned out in my driveway and then the project went on hold for a bit due to very rainy weather. The good news is that the rain did a good job of washing out the slots.

The nest issue was I discovered nails blocking the slots in places. The recip. saw with hacksaw blade took care of those. My idea was to fill the slots with vinyl 1x4 trim boards and then use backer rod where needed (in much smaller gaps) and caulk to finish the job. My hope is by filling most of the gap with vinyl, the caulk will hold up much longer. But, what will hold the vinyl in place and prevent it from floating out?
I decided I should use construction adhesive to bond the vinyl to one side of the gap. This morning, I was able to get back on the project.

I started with the short piece between the sidewalk and the edge of the driveway. Of course, I had to remove a wedge from the bottom side of the vinyl so that it would set mostly flush with the concrete, Wedges are in place until the construction glue has 24 hours to fully dry.

I then moved to the slot between the garage slab and the driveway. Obviously, the driveway slabs have shifted over the last 34 years.

Did I mention the slabs have shifted? This strip of vinyl would not go in, no matter how much I pounded on it using a board and a small sledge. Out with the recip. saw again with a fine blade - held it vertically and ran it along one edge for about a foot to get enough clearance that I could drive it down.

All the vinyl in place except for a couple of 6" pieces to finish the cross cut. I'll let this dry at least till midday tomorrow and then have more fun with adhesive, backer rod and caulk.

 

[Jeff Ivers]

Today, I took a chance on the weather and applied caulk to my cracks. I will let this cure for a couple of days and then install my 2 short pieces and touch up caulk as needed and consider this done. Hope this lasts longer than previous attempts.