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Jeff Ivers
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Went looking for another Pennzoil or Mobil 1 barrel for the shop and couldn't score one, so ...
Between 705 & 1200 SQ/FT DIY Shop
- Thread starter Jeff Ivers
- Start date
Workspaces between 705 and 1200 squarefeet.
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Jeff Ivers
Well-known member
Thank you for the compliment. Yes, that is a sticker I had acquired for another project but didn't use. No way do I have the skills to paint the logo.
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Jeff Ivers
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Finished the East end of the shop FRP project just after Christmas.
This allowed me to get to work and build a reference shelf for the standup desk I made for my daughter last Christmas.
Now that the FRP project is done and the east end of the shop reorganized, I can get to the two project cars to work on them. I have begun disassembling the 64 Triumph Spitfire (white car) and throwing away what can't be used (nasty carpet, etc). The parts that I take off are being restored before I store them in the barn.
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Jeff Ivers
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One day a week, I take time out from playing in the DIY shop to volunteer with Rebuilding Together Tulsa. This is a volunteer organization (part of a nationwide group) that does home repairs for those in need. We have done house siding, many bathroom repairs (toilets about to fall thru the floor), ADA conversions, and ramps. Here is an example:
One of the ongoing issues has been the lack of organization of hardware in the supply van. A while back, I discovered Dewalt parts cases that I really liked.
These did not appeal to me for my shop, but I thought they would be perfect for the RTT van. So, my most recent project has been to build a suitable rack for the van to hold some of these cases.
Hopefully, Wednesday, this will get installed and I can post a pic of the finished project.
One of the ongoing issues has been the lack of organization of hardware in the supply van. A while back, I discovered Dewalt parts cases that I really liked.
These did not appeal to me for my shop, but I thought they would be perfect for the RTT van. So, my most recent project has been to build a suitable rack for the van to hold some of these cases.
Hopefully, Wednesday, this will get installed and I can post a pic of the finished project.
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Jeff Ivers
Well-known member
Reconstituting Soap:
Since last summer, the only soap I have used at home and in the shop is reconstituted soap. Over the years, I had accrued a supply of complimentary bars and scraps of larger bars. One of my retirement goals was to make use of this. Yes, I discovered one could meld a newer bar with a scrap and have done that for years, but it was not using up my supply. Went looking for info on how to do this and found a lot of info on soap making, but not so much on reconstituting soap. So, I am posting what I have learned for those who may share my frugal bent.
Here are the tools I used. Silicone mold that can make a dozen 3" x 2" x 1.5" bars, wooden spatula, meat thermometer, cheese grater. The trick to reconstituting soap is to first break it up into a powder. Using the cheese grater will result in mostly powder with some flakes and the piece you give up on before grating your fingers. You can make bars with this, but it is not as aesthetically pleasing as bars made from powder only. So, I pour my gratings through a colander (not pictured), and put everything that doesn't pass through into a blender that can chip ice. The blender will turn this into powder in a hurry. One might avoid the grater, but I was concerned about larger chunks clogging the blender and chose to go this way. By the way, grating and blending will both produce some very fine dust. I wore a respirator.
Once I have a supply of powder, it is time to mold bars. Obviously, one needs to add moisture and heat the mixture in order to create usable bars. How much moisture and how much heat?
This is a picture of bars from three different batches. Notice the shrinkage on the bar on the left? That is caused by too much water in the mix. The left two bars were both made with powder with included larger flakes and chunks. The right bar was made with powder only. It is a much more uniform bar.
This is a picture of powder ready to mold.
This is a picture of heating the mixture. It may look solid, but is still stirrable at this stage. I have found success using 6 cups of powder and 2.5 cups (or slightly less) of water. I heat the mixture in a Visions glass pot (double boiler is not required). I have found that getting the mixture to above 160 degrees works well. Continuous stirring is not required, but stir often. When the mixture is ready for the mold, it will become stringy and stirring will be hard.
On an early batch, I thought perhaps I should accelerate the drying of the bars by placing them in the oven on warm. DO NOT do this! The soap will rise like your grandmothers best biscuits. Leave the bars in the molds for three days on the counter, then remove the bars and place on cookie cooling racks until they have dried completely.
Food coloring and a bit of cologne may be added to your pleasure.
Since last summer, the only soap I have used at home and in the shop is reconstituted soap. Over the years, I had accrued a supply of complimentary bars and scraps of larger bars. One of my retirement goals was to make use of this. Yes, I discovered one could meld a newer bar with a scrap and have done that for years, but it was not using up my supply. Went looking for info on how to do this and found a lot of info on soap making, but not so much on reconstituting soap. So, I am posting what I have learned for those who may share my frugal bent.
Here are the tools I used. Silicone mold that can make a dozen 3" x 2" x 1.5" bars, wooden spatula, meat thermometer, cheese grater. The trick to reconstituting soap is to first break it up into a powder. Using the cheese grater will result in mostly powder with some flakes and the piece you give up on before grating your fingers. You can make bars with this, but it is not as aesthetically pleasing as bars made from powder only. So, I pour my gratings through a colander (not pictured), and put everything that doesn't pass through into a blender that can chip ice. The blender will turn this into powder in a hurry. One might avoid the grater, but I was concerned about larger chunks clogging the blender and chose to go this way. By the way, grating and blending will both produce some very fine dust. I wore a respirator.
Once I have a supply of powder, it is time to mold bars. Obviously, one needs to add moisture and heat the mixture in order to create usable bars. How much moisture and how much heat?
This is a picture of bars from three different batches. Notice the shrinkage on the bar on the left? That is caused by too much water in the mix. The left two bars were both made with powder with included larger flakes and chunks. The right bar was made with powder only. It is a much more uniform bar.
This is a picture of powder ready to mold.
This is a picture of heating the mixture. It may look solid, but is still stirrable at this stage. I have found success using 6 cups of powder and 2.5 cups (or slightly less) of water. I heat the mixture in a Visions glass pot (double boiler is not required). I have found that getting the mixture to above 160 degrees works well. Continuous stirring is not required, but stir often. When the mixture is ready for the mold, it will become stringy and stirring will be hard.
On an early batch, I thought perhaps I should accelerate the drying of the bars by placing them in the oven on warm. DO NOT do this! The soap will rise like your grandmothers best biscuits. Leave the bars in the molds for three days on the counter, then remove the bars and place on cookie cooling racks until they have dried completely.
Food coloring and a bit of cologne may be added to your pleasure.
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Jeff Ivers
Well-known member
Couple of updates:
A couple of posts back, I showed the construction of a parts container rack to be installed in the supply van of the agency I volunteer with.
Here it is installed. The organization has containers to fill the other 5 slots, but don't have them stocked yet. The downward slope of the containers keeps them from sliding out when the van corners.
I decided to continue my FRP project by completing the south side of the shop. This led to deciding I was tired of using a plastic hose holder for my air hose. So, I decided to fab one. I forgot to take pictures of the construction, but basically I took an old circular saw blade and reduced it to a 5" circle and welded this to a 2" piece of 2" pipe, which I then welded to a strip of bar stock about 2.25 inches wide. I drilled the saw blade and installed some .5 inch bolts and bolted on an 8" trailer wheel.
A couple of posts back, I showed the construction of a parts container rack to be installed in the supply van of the agency I volunteer with.
Here it is installed. The organization has containers to fill the other 5 slots, but don't have them stocked yet. The downward slope of the containers keeps them from sliding out when the van corners.
I decided to continue my FRP project by completing the south side of the shop. This led to deciding I was tired of using a plastic hose holder for my air hose. So, I decided to fab one. I forgot to take pictures of the construction, but basically I took an old circular saw blade and reduced it to a 5" circle and welded this to a 2" piece of 2" pipe, which I then welded to a strip of bar stock about 2.25 inches wide. I drilled the saw blade and installed some .5 inch bolts and bolted on an 8" trailer wheel.
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Jeff Ivers
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Well, I was just about to start painting my gas pump, when, of course, something broke down and required attention. In this case it is my 5 year old JD 530.
I had it out for the first mowing of the season, when it quit mowing - tractor was running and driving, but no cutting. I had the shop full of another project at the time, so I hauled it up to the P&K Equipment Company, where I purchased it to have them look at it. I had been hearing a metallic sound and suspected the electric clutch, since the belts appeared to be in place.
Long story short, I was not happy with their response, so I hauled it back home and started working on it last week, after clearing space in the shop.
The first thing I tackled was the seat. The vinyl on the seat cracked while the tractor was under warranty, but above mentioned dealer did not take care of the problem. I forgot to take a before picture. To repair, I cut away the broken vinyl back to where it was still adhered to the foam core. Then I sprayed the area with Dap-Tex, a product like Great Stuff, but expands less. As soon as I sprayed it on, I scraped the excess off with a plastic scraper, contouring the remainder to the shape of the seat. After that dried for 24 hours, I painted on several coats of Plasti-Dip. I should have masked off the black part of the seat. I have been on the seat and driven the tractor several times and the repair seems to be holding. Here is what it looks like:
Next, I found I had some play in one of the spindles, so decided I would remove them, check all bearings, clean deck, and then reassemble. One of the spindle nuts came right off, because I had worked on this spindle before and applied anti-seize when putting the nut back on. Why don't they do this at the factory?! The other two spindle nuts were giving me fits. The big problem is that the blade nut would back off while I was trying to remove the top spindle nut. I actually broke a 22mm impact socket trying to remove the nuts.
At this point, I decided I needed something that would hold the pulley while I removed the spindle nut.
This is what I made. Second spindle nut is now off, but then my impact wrench broke.
I had it out for the first mowing of the season, when it quit mowing - tractor was running and driving, but no cutting. I had the shop full of another project at the time, so I hauled it up to the P&K Equipment Company, where I purchased it to have them look at it. I had been hearing a metallic sound and suspected the electric clutch, since the belts appeared to be in place.
Long story short, I was not happy with their response, so I hauled it back home and started working on it last week, after clearing space in the shop.
The first thing I tackled was the seat. The vinyl on the seat cracked while the tractor was under warranty, but above mentioned dealer did not take care of the problem. I forgot to take a before picture. To repair, I cut away the broken vinyl back to where it was still adhered to the foam core. Then I sprayed the area with Dap-Tex, a product like Great Stuff, but expands less. As soon as I sprayed it on, I scraped the excess off with a plastic scraper, contouring the remainder to the shape of the seat. After that dried for 24 hours, I painted on several coats of Plasti-Dip. I should have masked off the black part of the seat. I have been on the seat and driven the tractor several times and the repair seems to be holding. Here is what it looks like:
Next, I found I had some play in one of the spindles, so decided I would remove them, check all bearings, clean deck, and then reassemble. One of the spindle nuts came right off, because I had worked on this spindle before and applied anti-seize when putting the nut back on. Why don't they do this at the factory?! The other two spindle nuts were giving me fits. The big problem is that the blade nut would back off while I was trying to remove the top spindle nut. I actually broke a 22mm impact socket trying to remove the nuts.
At this point, I decided I needed something that would hold the pulley while I removed the spindle nut.
This is what I made. Second spindle nut is now off, but then my impact wrench broke.
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Jeff Ivers
Well-known member
Even with my homemade tool, I was still not able to remove one of the spindle nuts from my JD. So, I resorted to this:
Now, however, I am finally done with what turned out to be almost a restoration project.
Now that the JD is out of the way, I can turn my attention to the edger and downhill racer #2!
Now, however, I am finally done with what turned out to be almost a restoration project.
Now that the JD is out of the way, I can turn my attention to the edger and downhill racer #2!
How many hours on your 530? I have an older version of this mower with 600 hours on it and haven't touched the spindles other than grease every 50 hours but cringe every time I hear an unusual noise because I know I'm probably on borrowed time.
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Jeff Ivers
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I only have 328 hours on this tractor. The deck is not nearly as good a quality as my old JD 335.
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Jeff Ivers
Well-known member
[
Hey Jeff, whats up with this sign? Whant to trade or sell it? Thanks, Herb
Herb,
My wife and I bought property on which to build in 1989 - next door to a guy who had two abandoned track hoes. I believe the track hoes were Kawasaki (don't remember for sure) but they were model 666. When they finally junked those, about 8 years ago, I went over and asked if they would part with one of the signs. I then took it to a sign maker and paid about $30 to have it painted and the diagonal red stripe added as a joke that I didn't have to look at that junk anymore. The paint job isn't great but it shows fairly well.
I might part with it. What did you have in mind?
Jeff
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Jeff Ivers
Well-known member
Usually, when asked that question, I respond that I have reached that point in life where I don't "need' anything, but I keep looking and every once in a while I find something I can't live without.
But for a friend, I won't be such a wise acre. I am looking for Mobil, Sinclair, Standard and Gulf quart oil cans; a blue sparkle steering wheel, and the following license tags:
AL - sweet home
AL - heart of dixie
CA - golden state
IA - corn state
MT - treasure state
SC - iodine state
OK - visit
A collector like you probably has a number of things I would find interesting.
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Jeff Ivers
Well-known member
Took a little jaunt out to Black Mesa, OK this past weekend. When going through Buffalo, OK I spied this:
WarrenJ
Well-known member
A little bit of history-thanks for posting.
Denee007
Well-known member
This is great! measly vintage garbage cans cost alot! I can have a few cans like yours at a fraction of the cost! thanks
dne'
dne'
Went looking for another Pennzoil or Mobil 1 barrel for the shop and couldn't score one, so ...
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Jeff Ivers
Well-known member
I was browsing Craig's List a few days ago and couldn't resist picking this up for $20.
It has 5 inch jaws and a five inch throat size. I already have a 5" vise that is heavier than this one.
The neat thing about this one is the front jaws rotate to switch between standard jaws and pipe clamping jaws. Tightening the vise locks the jaws in place. I thought this would be really handy on some of my projects.
Haven't decided whether to replace my current vise or use this as a supplement, perhaps with a portable stand.
First, I think I will take it apart and do some restoration.
Anyone know anything about Bessy?
It has 5 inch jaws and a five inch throat size. I already have a 5" vise that is heavier than this one.
The neat thing about this one is the front jaws rotate to switch between standard jaws and pipe clamping jaws. Tightening the vise locks the jaws in place. I thought this would be really handy on some of my projects.
Haven't decided whether to replace my current vise or use this as a supplement, perhaps with a portable stand.
First, I think I will take it apart and do some restoration.
Anyone know anything about Bessy?
wasfast
Well-known member
Bessy is known for their wood working clamps. A full notch above the regular pony pipe clamps. Price tag to match.
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Don't know how I missed this thread but nice shop and work.
Subscribed.
Subscribed.
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Jeff Ivers
Well-known member
Thanks for the info. I had never come across the name before (at least not so that it stuck in my mind!)
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Jeff Ivers
Well-known member
Thanks for stopping in and the compliment. I've been watching your excellent projects for some time now.
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Bessey is a German clamp company that's been around for a long time. We use their heavy duty f-clamps extensively throughout the weld shop. They are pricey, but they take a beating.
It looks like the vise you bought is a current production BV-MPV5. At $20, I'd say you got a pretty good deal considering they sell new for around $100. Being that its probably not that old, you might not have to do much on the restoration front other than cleaning up some of the surface rust. Nice find!
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Jeff Ivers
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Thanks for pointing me to that model. I went out and found a pic of it online and mine is very much like it, except mine does not have the screw to lock the cylinder. Perhaps mine is an earlier version of this model?
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Jeff Ivers
Well-known member
After a successful trip to Muscatine, IA on July 4 for their downhill race, I had arthroscopic surgery on my left knee on July 11th. Since my daily shop time was reduced for a while, I decided to tackle a couple of projects I had lying around.
I had 3 perfectly good kitchen knives - except for the fact that the cheap plastic handles had disintegrated, a scrap piece of 100 year-old oak baseboard, a chunk of fir from the shop door headers and a benchmark I received over 45 years ago that was begging to be made into a paperweight.
Used the remaining good plastic handles as templates, played with my new planer for a while, a little jigsaw work, some stain and polyurethane and now 3 good knives.
The paperweight now has a home on my desk.
I had 3 perfectly good kitchen knives - except for the fact that the cheap plastic handles had disintegrated, a scrap piece of 100 year-old oak baseboard, a chunk of fir from the shop door headers and a benchmark I received over 45 years ago that was begging to be made into a paperweight.
Used the remaining good plastic handles as templates, played with my new planer for a while, a little jigsaw work, some stain and polyurethane and now 3 good knives.
The paperweight now has a home on my desk.
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Jeff Ivers
Well-known member
At the end of May, I picked up a Bessy vice for cheap off CL.
Painting the final pieces.
All pieces painted and/or polished and ready for re-assembly.
Finished!
One of the reasons I picked this up.
Another reason for the selection.
Now I just have to figure out how to deploy this in my shop - and do something about my old vice, which now looks rather tacky.
Painting the final pieces.
All pieces painted and/or polished and ready for re-assembly.
Finished!
One of the reasons I picked this up.
Another reason for the selection.
Now I just have to figure out how to deploy this in my shop - and do something about my old vice, which now looks rather tacky.
Finish one project, create two more - sounds like something I would do!
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Jeff Ivers
Well-known member
You nailed it! The story of my life - particularly since retirement. However, I must say each project sometimes morphs into 3 or 4 or ... Particularly when you include thing like maintenance on equipment like stopping to clear the windows on the sandblaster, or drain, filter and reload the blast media because some large bits fell in that stop up the nozzle.
1/2 Cup
Member Emeritus
Jeff Ivers top job on the vise.
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Jeff Ivers
Well-known member
Jeff Ivers top job on the vise.
Thank you, 1/2 cup!
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Jeff Ivers
Well-known member
I have never been much of a detail painter - have always struggled with things like raised letters. I thought the Bessey really needed the name painted a contrasting color to finish the job. I decided to try something new. I took a very cheap, disposable foam brush and cut it down to where the tip was only about 3/8 wide and tried painting letters with it.
Next, I started the process of deploying the Bessey in the shop.
I cut a piece of 1/4 inch plate to the shape of the Bessey base and welded it to a length of 2" square tubing.
After finishing the Bessey, I looked over at the workbench at my old Buffalo vise and thought that really looks rough to me now.
So, nothing would do but I had to take it apart and refurb it.
As the next step of deploying the Bessey, I acquired a free semi brake drum and started trying to turn it into a stand. Many thanks to those of you who have posted your builds that gave me the idea.
Next, I started the process of deploying the Bessey in the shop.
I cut a piece of 1/4 inch plate to the shape of the Bessey base and welded it to a length of 2" square tubing.
After finishing the Bessey, I looked over at the workbench at my old Buffalo vise and thought that really looks rough to me now.
So, nothing would do but I had to take it apart and refurb it.
As the next step of deploying the Bessey, I acquired a free semi brake drum and started trying to turn it into a stand. Many thanks to those of you who have posted your builds that gave me the idea.
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Jeff Ivers
Well-known member
This week, it was off to the powder coaters for the components of my vise stand.
Then, in typical DIY shop karma, my shop air conditioner gave up. I probably should not complain, as I got almost 8 seasons out of a unit with a 7 year warranty!
So, I installed a new unit. For those trying to size a unit for their shop, I offer the following observations. My original shop air was a 15,100 btu 115 volt unit. It (up until this summer) typically kept the shop about 15 degrees cooler than outside. Since I start getting uncomfortable working in the shop when the temperature exceeds about 82, this was acceptable most of the time. My shop is 1200 sq ft with 140 sq ft walled off as a shop office and bathroom and if I keep the door to that area closed, it reduces the area being cooled. This summer, the unit was struggling to meet that performance before it quit. I decided to upgrade to a 18,000 btu 240 volt unit. Luckily it fit the same in-wall opening I already had!
It will probably be next year before I can tell how much difference the upgrade makes.
Then, in typical DIY shop karma, my shop air conditioner gave up. I probably should not complain, as I got almost 8 seasons out of a unit with a 7 year warranty!
So, I installed a new unit. For those trying to size a unit for their shop, I offer the following observations. My original shop air was a 15,100 btu 115 volt unit. It (up until this summer) typically kept the shop about 15 degrees cooler than outside. Since I start getting uncomfortable working in the shop when the temperature exceeds about 82, this was acceptable most of the time. My shop is 1200 sq ft with 140 sq ft walled off as a shop office and bathroom and if I keep the door to that area closed, it reduces the area being cooled. This summer, the unit was struggling to meet that performance before it quit. I decided to upgrade to a 18,000 btu 240 volt unit. Luckily it fit the same in-wall opening I already had!
It will probably be next year before I can tell how much difference the upgrade makes.
Unruh
Well-known member
Looks like you have two new vises in your garage now. Great work on both of them! Any update on that vise stand?
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Jeff Ivers
Well-known member
No update on the stand yet. The items have been at the powder coaters for 2 weeks. Since I requested a non-standard color (blue), I will give them one more week before I start calling to check on status. I knew when I dropped it off they were somewhat backed up.
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Jeff Ivers
Well-known member
Several things finally came together today. The powder coater called and said my vise stand was ready to pick up (after nearly 4 weeks) - Hooray!. So, I picked it up and finished assembly.
This is the "front" view showing the wheels. They just barely touch the ground, so I don't have to tip very far to get the assembly to roll.
This is the "back" view showing the bead roller in the storage position.
This is the "side" view.
While I was waiting on the PC, I started working on a display for an antique globe lens I picked up off Craig's List.
This is the finished product.
This is the "front" view showing the wheels. They just barely touch the ground, so I don't have to tip very far to get the assembly to roll.
This is the "back" view showing the bead roller in the storage position.
This is the "side" view.
While I was waiting on the PC, I started working on a display for an antique globe lens I picked up off Craig's List.
This is the finished product.
1/2 Cup
Member Emeritus
Jeff Ivers you have done well.
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Jeff Ivers
Well-known member
Last spring, I picked up an antique DX globe with a broken Capco case. Since I was waiting on the Powder Coater, I decided it was time to do something with it.
I used these components to make a wall- mount display. Got the idea from another post (forgot where).
Before I removed the lens from the broken Capco to move it to a reproduction Capco, I built a holding jig.
This was built from 1 - 7.5 x 19 inch piece of plywood for the base, 2 - 7.25 x 19 inch pieces of pine for the sides, and 4 - 6 inch pieces of 1x3. Each 1x3 was notched with a half ellipse about 4.75 inches wide and 1.5 inches deep. Each of the side pieces was notched with a partial ellipse about 12.25 inches wide and 4 inches deep.
This shows one half the new Capco resting in the jig.
I used these components to make a wall- mount display. Got the idea from another post (forgot where).
Before I removed the lens from the broken Capco to move it to a reproduction Capco, I built a holding jig.
This was built from 1 - 7.5 x 19 inch piece of plywood for the base, 2 - 7.25 x 19 inch pieces of pine for the sides, and 4 - 6 inch pieces of 1x3. Each 1x3 was notched with a half ellipse about 4.75 inches wide and 1.5 inches deep. Each of the side pieces was notched with a partial ellipse about 12.25 inches wide and 4 inches deep.
This shows one half the new Capco resting in the jig.