Sasquatch912
Well-known member
Has anyone used any?
Will it stay stuck to the walls of a metal building or do I need to put walls up?
Will it stay stuck to the walls of a metal building or do I need to put walls up?
DIY Spray foam insulation?
- Thread starter Sasquatch912
- Start date
Kaizen
Well-known member
Depends how thick. I would make bays. Stuff is super expensive. I used it at the top of my foundation in the joist bays but only an inch thick for an air barrier. No way I'd do a garage like that. Think it was named tiger or something.
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finn
Well-known member
It's cheaper to use a local spray contractor, unless you have a very small job. At least it was in my case, especially considering there's a learning curve and chance of screwing up one or more of the kits.
My son used a couple of the Tiger kits for a small kitchen he remodeled. Factor in the cost of the jumpsuit, too.
My son used a couple of the Tiger kits for a small kitchen he remodeled. Factor in the cost of the jumpsuit, too.
OP
Sasquatch912
Well-known member
Shop is 30x30x12 but the roof pitches up higher in the center.
I found that I could hire an insulation contractor and get the job done for about what the material would cost me. I get the need and desire to save money, but there are some jobs that **** just enough to make you really want to hire them out. As well with their equipment, you have a much better chance of not having a failed foam installation.
86turbodsl
Well-known member
You won't save a dime. Pay for a contractor if you want spray foam. I've looked at it extensively many times. Seriously.
cajunfirehawk
Well-known member
From the research I have done and depending on the thickness you want to buy, your looking at $2-5k...mine is 30x40x12 and those were my findings.Closed cell. YMMV
kd3pc
Well-known member
the stuff sticks to anything and sticks well...
as in, cover anything that you don't want it on - OR - make it a contract item for the installer to clean up.
I am with the "contract it out" group. Well worth it, in the long run..they pull up in a truck full of material, string out some hoses and a nozzle and a few hours later, Done.
as in, cover anything that you don't want it on - OR - make it a contract item for the installer to clean up.
I am with the "contract it out" group. Well worth it, in the long run..they pull up in a truck full of material, string out some hoses and a nozzle and a few hours later, Done.
bigmobrown
New member
- Joined
- Jun 6, 2012
- Messages
- 4
Hire a foam contractor! Well worth the money and time saved. I paid $5000 for 6" of open-cell foam on the walls and 8" under the roof on my 30x40x10 metal building, which was framed out with 2x4 wall studs against the interior walls. He was able to spray the whole building and shave the walls to the studs in about 4 hours.
If you're in a hot/humid climate, open-cell is recommended because closed-cell (more $$$) forms a vapor barrier, which can lead to interior moisture issues.
If you're in a hot/humid climate, open-cell is recommended because closed-cell (more $$$) forms a vapor barrier, which can lead to interior moisture issues.
OP
Sasquatch912
Well-known member
I have a hot humid climate here but i thought open cell kept moisture?
Will this foam come off or will it stay stuck to the metal over the years?
Will this foam come off or will it stay stuck to the metal over the years?
purplezr2
Well-known member
Typically it costs about 1 dollar per sqft per 1 inch thick.
Usually it cost more than that to DIY, and you will not be as efficient.
Usually it cost more than that to DIY, and you will not be as efficient.
forAK
Well-known member
From what I've read here, metal building sellers are advising against the use of foam on the metal. It's causing a premature rusting issue. One of the members here puts up metal buildings and has mentioned it more than once.
If you are dead set on using it, I would go with open cell so the metal could breathe. The foam will not come off the metal over the years. You'd have quite a hard time picking off the dried stuff. YMMV
Randy in Maine
Well-known member
If no air or water vapor can get to it I don't see how it could rust.
cajunfirehawk
Well-known member
Always heard the exact opposite down here, but if the shop has a vapor barrier (closed cell) and you run some type of fan or air handler, no humidity should be there as opposed to none which is a rain forest, ask me how I know!
A few months ago I would have definitely said that hiring a contractor would be cheaper than the kits. I now know it depends on the companies in your area and demand. I had a 30x40 done a few years ago and both quotes I received were cheaper than the kits.
I have since moved to another state and finished another pole barn garage I want foamed with closed cell. Most of the contractors in this area want to charge a fortune for closed cell. I received a few absolutely outrageous quotes that were all over the place. I had 4 quotes with a 4,200 difference between them for the same specs.
I seriously considered going the kit route before finding a decent contractor. Point is keep looking, depending on your area there some serious up charging contractors.
I have since moved to another state and finished another pole barn garage I want foamed with closed cell. Most of the contractors in this area want to charge a fortune for closed cell. I received a few absolutely outrageous quotes that were all over the place. I had 4 quotes with a 4,200 difference between them for the same specs.
I seriously considered going the kit route before finding a decent contractor. Point is keep looking, depending on your area there some serious up charging contractors.
OP
Sasquatch912
Well-known member
Well...I guess Im stuck until I find out about the moisture issue.
Very humid here in Southeast GA and Hot..
The metal is painted white on the inside.
Very humid here in Southeast GA and Hot..
The metal is painted white on the inside.
Sasquatch, if you are using closed cell foam directly on the metal it won't be falling off. The 30x40 I did was in KY and yes it was hot and humid in the summer. The closed cell works alot like a giant Yeti Cooler. I placed a window AC unit in my shop and turned it on every now and again during the hottest part of the summer. It did an amazing job. Three days after running it the building still had decent humidity levels. I left it off for a couple of weeks and it preformed well but like any building in a hot humid summer it's going to get hot too. It will stop the rain effect that is common with metal roof condensation. The closed will also add a lot of strength to your walls/roof.
You also asked if you had to cover the foam or add walls. I sprayed Acrylic paint over the closed cell foam to protect it from UV light and left it otherwise exposed. I did hit the foam a few times with boards etc and there was not damage. After 6 or 7 years I had maybe one decent dent. A lot of people leave closed cell exposed without painting but since the UV light isn't good for it I believe in protecting your investment. You will also hear some people say code in their area requires it be covered or sprayed with another fire retardant overlay. That has not been required in areas I have lived in detached garages or barns. You can watch foam burning tests on youtube and closed cell will smoke but it is not like a cheap Styrofoam cooler that burns/melts fast.
Now to the open cell debate. It will have to be covered, it is easily damaged and more susceptible to UV light. Open cell is an air barrier at 3 inches but will not be a vapor barrier even at more depth. Closed cell is an air and water barrier at 1.5 inches. Open cell will breath and allow moisture to pass through, closed will not. Again think of the cooler analogy with closed.
Hopefully that answers most of your questions. I will tell you that in my current shop I resisted the going w foam again due to price but in the end nothing else really compares.
You also asked if you had to cover the foam or add walls. I sprayed Acrylic paint over the closed cell foam to protect it from UV light and left it otherwise exposed. I did hit the foam a few times with boards etc and there was not damage. After 6 or 7 years I had maybe one decent dent. A lot of people leave closed cell exposed without painting but since the UV light isn't good for it I believe in protecting your investment. You will also hear some people say code in their area requires it be covered or sprayed with another fire retardant overlay. That has not been required in areas I have lived in detached garages or barns. You can watch foam burning tests on youtube and closed cell will smoke but it is not like a cheap Styrofoam cooler that burns/melts fast.
Now to the open cell debate. It will have to be covered, it is easily damaged and more susceptible to UV light. Open cell is an air barrier at 3 inches but will not be a vapor barrier even at more depth. Closed cell is an air and water barrier at 1.5 inches. Open cell will breath and allow moisture to pass through, closed will not. Again think of the cooler analogy with closed.
Hopefully that answers most of your questions. I will tell you that in my current shop I resisted the going w foam again due to price but in the end nothing else really compares.
Hello. sorry to bother you. I'm wanting to insulate my workshop (30x15) steel frame portal building, thinking spray foam insulation would be easiest, anyone done this? Thoughts please!
kj_mustang
Well-known member
My closed cell spray foamed building is applied direct to the metal all over. I can peel the metal back from the foam. Zero issues with corrosion after 10 years.
I did closed cell 4” roof 3” walls 42x96 well worth the Money to hire contractor. Make sure you also check the depth will there doing it make sure there not cheating you. As semi75 said it added rigidity expensive but well worth it.they will also clean up studs and frame in any area you 
want to build onto before they spray otherwise you will be chipping it away and that hard and time consuming.
want to build onto before they spray otherwise you will be chipping it away and that hard and time consuming.This was my roof getting 5+" of closed cell (26 x 39). It's a ****** messy job requiring some prep and a lot of cleanup, but mostly skill and correct materials (yes, there are SEVERAL different suppliers/specs and you need to know WTF you are doing) and of course the firestop barrier over top (that's what I was doing in these pics). Cost more to insulate roof than it originally cost to build the whole shop. Absolutely NO WAY to do this with "kits" of foam.
