DIY trailer stabilizer... Advice needed

[mike93lx]

I'm looking to essentially replicate this for my aluminum utility trailer, just smaller. No significant loads, this will just allow me to step into it when it's not hooked up to a vehicle. I know I can buy various scissor/screw jacks, but that's not what I want to do here. Looking to make something.

I have about 31" of total height to work, including leg extension. That's 16" from the top of the trailer to the bottom of the frame and 15" from frame to ground. Keeping the amount it sticks below the trailer to a minimum is ideal, but I know the tubes have to overlap to keep them strong.

I'm thinking 2x2x3/16 tube for the outer and 1.5x1.5x1/8 for the inner. Is 1/16 clearance enough, too much, just right? Are there plastic bushings that I should look for to keep them tight but reduce friction?

How much overlap should be sufficient? I know that will depend on the load, but let's assume nothing significant.

 

[Joemctag]

Why not have the 2” tube open at top so that inner tube can be plenty long, even when ground there is low, and it doesn’t have to be below the frame when raised? Otherwise, just asking for trouble. Also, if the 2” tube has a seam inside like steel tube does, you can use an angle grinder to groove the outside of the 1-1/2” tube so it’ll fit.

 

[mike93lx]

Why not have the 2” tube open at top so that inner tube can be plenty long, even when ground there is low, and it doesn’t have to be below the frame when raised? Otherwise, just asking for trouble. Also, if the 2” tube has a seam inside like steel tube does, you can use an angle grinder to groove the outside of the 1-1/2” tube so it’ll fit.

Because the top limit is defined by part of the trailer, so it can't extend past. This is almost certainly only going to be used in a driveway, so ultimate adjustability isn't needed. I can also adjust the height with the tongue jack

Extruded aluminum tube doesn't have a weld seam.

I found a company that sells telescopic tubing, so sizing wouldn't be an issue.

Aluminum Telescoping Square Tubing - Alcobra Metals

Alcobra's aluminum telescoping square tubing ships in a wide range of sizes and two wall thickness options. Check out our selection today!

alcobrametals.com

 

[Firebrick43]

You could make your own full length bushings by welding 4 pieces of UHMW together?

 

[whateg01]

I usually shoot for 3x for overlap. That said I'm usually working with steel tubing, so 14ga 2" square will fit 1-3/4" with enough slop for the seam and allows it to move easily. That 6ish inches allows the slop without it being too sloppy. If the tubes are fairly close fitting I would go down to 2x or maybe even 1.5x. I don't know how likely it is to happen but if there's any lateral load there's the possibility that the aluminum tube could get nicked or somehow otherwise ends up with burrs, it could make it hard to retract and with it down, the only way to get it out would be to lift that end of the trailer.

I'll add that any amount that sticks down below the trailer can be a problem in the wrong situation. Most often it's pulling in or out of a driveway. A tight fit could bind up more easily in that case and make extension or retraction difficult. If it was mine, I would use that 1/16" gap, not tightly telescoping tubes. Sand, dirt, grit can cause it to bind up.

 

[mike93lx]

You could make your own full length bushings by welding 4 pieces of UHMW together?

I couldn't, but maybe it's possible. With the closer fit on those telescoping tubes I found, I was thinking uhmw tape, which they also sell.

 

[mike93lx]

I usually shoot for 3x for overlap. That said I'm usually working with steel tubing, so 14ga 2" square will fit 1-3/4" with enough slop for the seam and allows it to move easily. That 6ish inches allows the slop without it being too sloppy. If the tubes are fairly close fitting I would go down to 2x or maybe even 1.5x. I don't know how likely it is to happen but if there's any lateral load there's the possibility that the aluminum tube could get nicked or somehow otherwise ends up with burrs, it could make it hard to retract and with it down, the only way to get it out would be to lift that end of the trailer.

I'll add that any amount that sticks down below the trailer can be a problem in the wrong situation. Most often it's pulling in or out of a driveway. A tight fit could bind up more easily in that case and make extension or retraction difficult. If it was mine, I would use that 1/16" gap, not tightly telescoping tubes. Sand, dirt, grit can cause it to bind up.

Damage is definitely a good concern. There's enough travel with the tongue jack, plus the whole trailer only weighs 500lb, so tipping the tongue down to extract a tube wouldnt (shouldn't) be an issue if that ever arose.

Thanks for the feedback on overlap. I was thinking 3" overlap and leaning towards a 2" outer tube. If I go this route, I'd probably buy longer than necessary to do some playing with.

A 3 piece setup would solve for my length constraints but add a lot of risk of binding. That said, it's helpful seeing a commercially available setup, so it must work reasonably well

 

[whateg01]

Drop leg trailer jacks are essentially that. 2 tubes that telescope with the screw and one that telescopes with gravity. Of course, those are usually custom sizes made for that purpose so the clearance can be spec'd to work as intended. It's harder when you have to work with what you can find.

 

[mike93lx]

Drop leg trailer jacks are essentially that. 2 tubes that telescope with the screw and one that telescopes with gravity. Of course, those are usually custom sizes made for that purpose so the clearance can be spec'd to work as intended. It's harder when you have to work with what you can find.

Yeah, nothing novel here. I just have a space constraint and want aluminum, which pushes this to custom.

Gives me a chance to play around and try something new, downsides are the materials aren't super cheap and I can't weld aluminum, so I'll have to hire out welding on the mounting tabs. If I could come up with a no-weld (riveted?) solution, that would be awesome.

I'll take some pics tomorrow and see if I have scrap pvc around to mock up an idea

 

[whateg01]

Depending on how it all fits together, you might be able drill through both sides of the tube to drill and counter sink mounting holes from inside. Then the holes could be welded shut. Of course, if the top is welded shut, you would want the holes left open so you could insert and tighten them through the other side.

 

[mike93lx]

Depending on how it all fits together, you might be able drill through both sides of the tube to drill and counter sink mounting holes from inside. Then the holes could be welded shut. Of course, if the top is welded shut, you would want the holes left open so you could insert and tighten them through the other side.

Using welding to avoid welding feels a little counterproductive

Regardless of how it's put together, it will be riveted or bolted to the trailer. It's just the mounting tabs that need to go on the tube that I wanted to try and avoid welding on. But if I have to bring it to a local shop for that, I'm fine with it

 

[Firebrick43]

since you don’t need perfect length how about just a simple tube with a foot. Wouldn’t matter if round or square.

Tube has (2) 3/4” diameter holes on it. One towards the non foot end and one 12” from the first hole towards the foot.

Turn 3 aluminum 3/4” pegs tapped on one end with 1/2-13 and the other end cross drilled with a 1/4” hole.

Drill 1/2” hole in trailer side near top back corner for the first peg and attach with 1/2-13 stainless bolt and washer from the inside.

Install second peg 12” below and third 12” forward.

Then use lynch pins to secure the leg either in the down position when loading or forward position when driving?

No welding except to attach foot.

Instead of turning pins just use cat 0 attachment pins?

 

[mike93lx]

since you don’t need perfect length how about just a simple tube with a foot. Wouldn’t matter if round or square.

Tube has (2) 3/4” diameter holes on it. One towards the non foot end and one 12” from the first hole towards the foot.

Turn 3 aluminum 3/4” pegs tapped on one end with 1/2-13 and the other end cross drilled with a 1/4” hole.

Drill 1/2” hole in trailer side near top back corner for the first peg and attach with 1/2-13 stainless bolt and washer from the inside.

Install second peg 12” below and third 12” forward.

Then use lynch pins to secure the leg either in the down position when loading or forward position when driving?

No welding except to attach foot.

So hinging it on the bolt? That could work.

I was also thinking about getting some type of socket that I could attach to the trailer and make the tube removable, so similar to what you are saying, just stored differently.

Simple would be great.

Also hoping that this can double as a jackstand for a tire change. Set the leg down and then lift the trailer with the tongue jack. It would have to be unloaded or loaded lightly, but that's how it spends most of its time anyway

 

[Firebrick43]

So hinging it on the bolt? That could work.

I was also thinking about getting some type of socket that I could attach to the trailer and make the tube removable, so similar to what you are saying, just stored differently.

Simple would be great.

Also hoping that this can double as a jackstand for a tire change. Set the leg down and then lift the trailer with the tongue jack. It would have to be unloaded or loaded lightly, but that's how it spends most of its time anyway

Thinking aluminum versions of 3 point attachment pins. Added picture above.

 

[mike93lx]

Here's where I am trying to install this.

The conduit is 16" and the piece of pex is 17.5" and sticks down below the bottom of the Frame by less than 2". I could easily shorten that by raising the jack but I wanted to start with it as low as I'd expect to have it.

The outer tube would need a couple tabs welded on for mounting to the trailer and the inner tube would need a foot welded on. Unfortunately, none of my buddies weld, so I'd have to farm this out. $100-200 at a local shop?

 

[whateg01]

That doesn't look bad. How much does the rear of the trailer overhang the rear axle? Sorry if you already said but I don't recall.

 

[mike93lx]

That doesn't look bad. How much does the rear of the trailer overhang the rear axle? Sorry if you already said but I don't recall.

I hadn't. It's a 10' bed, so I'd assume around 4'.

Had another think on this and am leaning towards simpler as it's not necessary to have the two tubes. I threw a quick design together on send cut send. It needs a cross hole to hold the tube, but this would allow riveting to the trailer and not require any welding. For the foot, I'm thinking a plastic plug with a threaded insert, then countersinking a hole in a plate that's maybe 4" diameter

 

[whateg01]

I hadn't. It's a 10' bed, so I'd assume around 4'.

Had another think on this and am leaning towards simpler as it's not necessary to have the two tubes. I threw a quick design together on send cut send. It needs a cross hole to hold the tube, but this would allow riveting to the trailer and not require any welding. For the foot, I'm thinking a plastic plug with a threaded insert, then countersinking a hole in a plate that's maybe 4" diameter

If you go that route, you might look at available bolt on stake pockets. Dunno if you'll find them in aluminum though. If you bend them yourself, just know that some aluminum alloys are harder to bend than others.

 

[mike93lx]

If you go that route, you might look at available bolt on stake pockets. Dunno if you'll find them in aluminum though. If you bend them yourself, just know that some aluminum alloys are harder to bend than others.

I did look, but they're too large.

If I go this route, I'm going to let send cut send bend it and drill the holes. About $18 each for the two brackets. Just need to figure out the sizing to ensure I get the clearance I need. Thinking 1/32" on each side of the tubing will give it enough clearance, but not be sloppy. Thoughts on that?

 

[whateg01]

If they air bend, there will be an inside radius. Thicker material will have a wider radius.

 

[mike93lx]

If they air bend, there will be an inside radius. Thicker material will have a wider radius.

Yes, they do. I'll use radius corner tubing and make sure it's larger radius than their bend spec

Thinking 1/8" material for the brackets and 1/8" wall tubing

 

[Walkers]

For 20 bucks you could weld a bolt plate on one of these and bolt it to your trailer.

https://www.etrailer.com/Camper-Jacks/etrailer/SJ-R208.html?feed=npn&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIwLq09928ggMV9Ax9Ch17PwMsEAQYASABEgLHQvD_BwE

 

[mike93lx]

For 20 bucks you could weld a bolt plate on one of these and bolt it to your trailer.

https://www.etrailer.com/Camper-Jacks/etrailer/SJ-R208.html?feed=npn&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIwLq09928ggMV9Ax9Ch17PwMsEAQYASABEgLHQvD_BwE

Yep, I know.

Cheapest wasn't a goal

 

[whateg01]

A guy wants what he wants! Amirite?

 

[mike93lx]

A guy wants what he wants! Amirite?

Youisrite.

I'm not opposed to changing the path... I think this thread shows it, but I don't want a commercially available steel solution