DIY Truss Brackets?

[Bobthetractor]

I’m trying to rebuild a building (long story) quickly. Truss shops are min 8weeks out so I’m looking for another option. Anyone make connectors? I don’t want plates but was hoping on a simple system where I can insert the top chords into a bracket so my angles are consistent. Thankfully this is ag so I don’t need to worry about permitting but I want to be somewhat correct in strength. I’ve found some places that sell metal trusses but they’re all 3or4:12 and this is 7:12.

 

[larry4406]

Maybe this link can help
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=260625

 

[NUTTSGT]

I made my own using a jig I made from Menards truss plans. Pics in my garage refurb thread.

 

[rkevins]

I have helped my dad build trusses. As NUTTSGT said use a plan. He cut all the connector plates from plywood and nailed them to the truss (before nail guns used 8D nails if I remember). You use the first truss as a pattern and build each one on top of that one.

 

[NUTTSGT]

Here's a picture of my jig and building trusses... page 137 of the link in my sig.

 

[Nowater]

Site built trusses are not permitted in Sarasota. Be forewarned.

 

[mikegt4]

Site built trusses are not permitted in Sarasota. Be forewarned.

True in most places, or at least not without engineered and stamped drawings. Building departments don't want to deal with all the variables of site built trusses.

 

[kbs2244]

" Thankfully this is ag so I don’t need to worry about permitting "


2 things

screw and glue a 1/2 ply plate at every joint
(use the course thread, gold deck screws, not the black dry wall ones)

do both sides
(yes, it is a pain to flip them, but it will be worth it)

 

[Firebrick43]

" Thankfully this is ag so I don’t need to worry about permitting "


2 things

screw and glue a 1/2 ply plate at every joint
(use the course thread, gold deck screws, not the black dry wall ones)

do both sides
(yes, it is a pain to flip them, but it will be worth it)

The screws are a bad idea. The screws(even structural ones) are not malleable enough. Also the nailing schedule for a truss uses lots of small nail to spread the load out. Screws will split the wood.

This can be found in Midwest plan services manual MWPS-9. It has truss design, shear webs, and nailing schedules.

View media item 71675

 

[nadogail]

Plywood plates, glue and screws with a jig to hold everything in alignment can, IMHO, enable you to fabricate a professional quality truss.

 

[mike93lx]

" Thankfully this is ag so I don’t need to worry about permitting "


2 things

screw and glue a 1/2 ply plate at every joint
(use the course thread, gold deck screws, not the black dry wall ones)

do both sides
(yes, it is a pain to flip them, but it will be worth it)

Anyone that needs to be told not to use drywall screws for this has no business putting up a garden shed, let alone a full size building

 

[NWOhioChevyGuy]

We modified some existing trusses by using 1/2" plywood braces, construction adhesive and structural screws. All holding nicely and no wood splitting.

I agree an air nailer and plates might be easier / stronger when building them, but the screws worked great in our situation with trusses already on the structure.

 

[Los_Control]

I was told, the truss manufacturers use a press to install the metal plates.
I just do not feel I could duplicate the installation process at home .... pounding on the plates, material bouncing around ... may look like factory but the quality & strength would not be the same.

I have built a few storage sheds with gambrel roofs. Used several sheets plywood laid flat on driveway, Made first truss on them. Used 5/8" plywood, liquid nails & a siding staple gun.
Then used 2x4 screwed to plywood to create a jig around the first truss.
Then moved the truss and used jig to create the rest of the trusses.

 

[mike93lx]

I was told, the truss manufacturers use a press to install the metal plates.
I just do not feel I could duplicate the installation process at home .... pounding on the plates, material bouncing around ... may look like factory but the quality & strength would not be the same.

I have built a few storage sheds with gambrel roofs. Used several sheets plywood laid flat on driveway, Made first truss on them. Used 5/8" plywood, liquid nails & a siding staple gun.
Then used 2x4 screwed to plywood to create a jig around the first truss.
Then moved the truss and used jig to create the rest of the trusses.

You absolutely cannot replicate what is done in a truss factory.

You can build good enough at home for some situations. Sheds are a great example

 

[Innovate1]

I helped my dad build trusses for a pole building around 1970 based on ag plans from Oregon Extension. Plywood gussets both sides (1/2" as I recall) and a ton of nails driven by hand - 8s I think. I recall at the time that the county required plans but we were deep in the country and dad had asked around and the penalty was double the permit fees and that was still less than paying for proper permits. So we just built it per the extension plans. Still standing today. Never had any issues or penalties.

I would agree with Firebrick that screws are a bad idea. Same with glue I would think. Lumber is going to move some with changes in humidity and making it too rigid is as bad as not rigid enough. But just my opinion...

If you can find similar size plans you could go with that. Or you could calculate the force at each joint and determine how many nails are needed to meet the load.

I recently made some small frames for a roof over the entry door but much smaller than you are working on. I did plywood gussets and it worked out fine - no support posts. Construction review was minimal so I had no issues with that even though I had a permit and got inspections.

 

[Firebrick43]

I helped my dad build trusses for a pole building around 1970 based on ag plans from Oregon Extension. Plywood gussets both sides (1/2" as I recall) and a ton of nails driven by hand - 8s I think. I recall at the time that the county required plans but we were deep in the country and dad had asked around and the penalty was double the permit fees and that was still less than paying for proper permits. So we just built it per the extension plans. Still standing today. Never had any issues or penalties.

I would agree with Firebrick that screws are a bad idea. Same with glue I would think. Lumber is going to move some with changes in humidity and making it too rigid is as bad as not rigid enough. But just my opinion...

If you can find similar size plans you could go with that. Or you could calculate the force at each joint and determine how many nails are needed to meet the load.

I recently made some small frames for a roof over the entry door but much smaller than you are working on. I did plywood gussets and it worked out fine - no support posts. Construction review was minimal so I had no issues with that even though I had a permit and got inspections.

The plans he probably used was the ones I listed, MWPS-9. Midwest plan service was the supplier to the extension services throughout the country. It is what I used to design the gussets and nail schedule for my truss that I made.

 

[NUTTSGT]

I was told, the truss manufacturers use a press to install the metal plates.
I just do not feel I could duplicate the installation process at home .... pounding on the plates, material bouncing around ... may look like factory but the quality & strength would not be the same.

Granted, my trusses are only 14' wide plus overhang, but if you assemble on the floor or a solid table you should be fine.

I used Simpson Strong-Tie plates of similar size to what the truss plans called for and on both sides. Then I put in ALOT of nails. To make sure that I didn't split any of the wood, I pre-drilled with a small enough bit to keep from splitting but still gave plenty of bite into the wood.

I didn't fill every hole in the plates due to joints or at edges. But I used plenty of nails. . .Simpson nails, 1.5" long 750/box. Almost 4 boxes worth in 15 trusses.. . . all by hand.

 

[mikegt4]

I was told, the truss manufacturers use a press to install the metal plates.
I just do not feel I could duplicate the installation process at home .... pounding on the plates, material bouncing around ... may look like factory but the quality & strength would not be the same.

I have built a few storage sheds with gambrel roofs. Used several sheets plywood laid flat on driveway, Made first truss on them. Used 5/8" plywood, liquid nails & a siding staple gun.
Then used 2x4 screwed to plywood to create a jig around the first truss.
Then moved the truss and used jig to create the rest of the trusses.

Yes, big hydraulic presses. In a former life I worked at a company that made some presses for a truss manufacturer. You can't duplicate the process with a hammer.

 

[Orionrising]

What span? You may just be able to use rafters?

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[CraigStu]

Decades ago I helped my brother build trusses for his house. We did not make a jig although we probably should have. We did make the frist truss and then made a few more on top. About the 4th one we realized we were getting tiny variances adding up to too much difference. So we adjusted those last two and then set them aside. We built all the rest using the first one as our guide. If you decide to use nails, experiment w/ several brands of construction adhesive. Some come out of the tube like mayonnaise and some more like thick peanut butter. You want the thin stuff so your plywood won't end up w/ an 1/8 inch of glue between it and the 2x4 or whatever. Personally, I'd rather predrill, and use screws so the glue is squeezed nice and thin. Screws, especially properly pre-drilled pull pieces together. Nails don't. Get an adjustable counter sink bit like this.
https://www.rockler.com/insty-bit-w..._-_C&msclkid=a71e307b13ef1a1e3680502fb2e0bcfd
Mine adjusts for both the total depth and the depth for the unthreaded portion of the screw shank. It is worth it's weight in gold.

 

[Mainiac Mat]

I made the trusses for my house roof 24 years ago using plywood gussets.

You will add a lot of strength if you used wood glue and nails.

Make sure you align all your top cords crown up.