Dmm or clamp meter

[jakgop21]

I am looking for a digital multi meter or clamp meter. I was directed to look into fluke . I would like this as a secondary unit because my dad and I currently share one unit . At the moment I don’t do electrical work day in and day out . I do it here and there .

I was wondering what your suggestions would be for a dmm or clamp meter or I should go with both . Basic use voltage , continuity , load /amperage check on breakers . I would like to buy something halfway decent but not break the bank .

What brand do you recommend ? If fluke what dmm or clamp meter do you recommend ? I was looking at a 117/323 combo for just shy of $300 .

What are your thoughts ?


Any help would be greatly appreciated.


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[monkeyspanners]

Have a Fluke 116 meter that does what i need for electrical and refrigeration work, also have an Ideal clamp meter which so far has been good, the non contact voltage detector that built into the clamp is really useful.

Have a look on youtube for Ron Kipper Datacomm, he works for Ideal and demos a lot of their products.

Fieldpiece are also popular in the HVAC trade so worth a look.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Basic use voltage , continuity , load /amperage check on breakers . I would like to buy something halfway decent but not break the bank .

Uni-T

Many models to choose from, many under $100.

 

[ddawg16]

Depends on what you are doing with it.

The newer clamp on's (not to be confused with ********'s), also do AC/DC voltage and resistance....but not a whole lot of accuracy and resolution.

If your doing more current checks than voltage or current...then go with a clamp on model. Otherwise, go DMM

 

[BMack37]

I am looking for a digital multi meter or clamp meter. I was directed to look into fluke . I would like this as a secondary unit because my dad and I currently share one unit . At the moment I don’t do electrical work day in and day out . I do it here and there .

I was wondering what your suggestions would be for a dmm or clamp meter or I should go with both . Basic use voltage , continuity , load /amperage check on breakers . I would like to buy something halfway decent but not break the bank .

What brand do you recommend ? If fluke what dmm or clamp meter do you recommend ? I was looking at a 117/323 combo for just shy of $300 .

What are your thoughts ?


Any help would be greatly appreciated.


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Those are great meters. They definitely both serve their purpose, when you add checking amperage draw on breakers you need a clamp meter. A DMM checking amps you have to put the meter in circuit, which means cutting the cable.

Clamp meters are generally slower to update and slower continuity, less accurate, than DMMs. For a clamp meter; I like my Klein CL700, it has more features and is very comparable in accuracy and speed of reading to my Fluke 324. The Klein also has great input protection, so if it blows up it won't hurt you. I think the Klein clamp meter is made by Uni-T.

For DMMs, I ONLY like Fluke. I've tried other brands including some very highly recommended meters, I always go back to Fluke. The quick beep on diode test is something that I really like, I think Fluke is the only company that does it. Continuity is always quick on Flukes, the standing bale on them are solid. The 117 is a Chinese Fluke but the build quality could fool even the most picky. The probes aren't great, they're better than most but get yoursel some silicone leads/probes, it's worth it. Brymen's probes are really nice too, the gold tips are great on those.

You could also consider going used with Fluke. I've bought several used Flukes, I've found some with issues but test it while you can return it. Flukes don't really need calibration, they just don't drift like other brands do. There are some great Fluke meters that you can buy at or under $100 used. Fluke 112, USA made, small and good feature set sells for around $75. Fluke 83 and 85, 87 or 87III are around $100. Then buy the Klein CL700 or CL800, I bought my CL700 like new for $50 shipped on eBay.

Yeah, I like my Fluke DMMs:

 

[Olafur]

Totally depends on what you intend to do with it.
Automotive only?
Mains, higher voltage?

Yes, we all know Fluke makes great meters, but so do many others today. My Japanese Hioki is still my #1 meter and it is still accurate and hasn't drifted a bit. It has fast continuity and most of the bells and whistles - I bought it in 1989 for 1/3 the price of similar Fluke.

 

[Citation]

Keep your eyes on ebay and you can sometimes find this "Matco" Brymen meter for around $50+ shipping. The sticker is about $150. This link is for illustration only. Not endorsing the seller or the over $100 price
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Matco-Tech...893224&hash=item1ecfc26231:g:uP0AAOSwyttZwXaY

This BTW, is basically the same as the Greenlee DM200 and DM510 meters (specs vary by model number of course). For the most part these are "as good as Fluke" but don't cost as much.

This Greenlee 820A (also a Brymen meter) isn't priced too badly. I've picked up ones that aren't as clean for around $50.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/GREENLEE-T...478102&hash=item56a359d8d4:g:lacAAOSwJs1Z1pL3

 

[jakgop21]

Anybody know which dmm or clamp meters fluke makes in the USA ? Or is it only the higher end expensive models ?


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[Olafur]

I second what Citation said.

I bought two Brymen BM257 for a shop I work for and they are solid and nice meters to use. Quick, sturdy, easy to read and have good selection of functions. To boot they have serious high voltage protection, quality fuses and pretty much everything a good meter should have. Leads are better than average but not perfect IMO.

 

[Olafur]

Anybody know which dmm or clamp meters fluke makes in the USA ? Or is it only the higher end expensive models ?


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Do yourself a favor and explain what you intend to use the meter for. You will get better feedback if you do.

If you want to buy Fluke - just say so. Nothing wrong with that.

 

[jl4c]

If you spring for a clamp meter, make sure you get one that will measure both D.C. AND AC current. The cheaper clamp meters (Fluke 323) only measure AC. The 325 (and my 376) will also do D.C. In the last couple of weeks I've used mine several times to diagnose bad alternators and batteries. When you have 16-20A D.C. going into a battery, you really can't measure that with a DMM, which are normally limited to around 10A.

 

[Rarified27]

If you spring for a clamp meter, make sure you get one that will measure both D.C. AND AC current. The cheaper clamp meters (Fluke 323) only measure AC. The 325 (and my 376) will also do D.C. In the last couple of weeks I've used mine several times to diagnose bad alternators and batteries. When you have 16-20A D.C. going into a battery, you really can't measure that with a DMM, which are normally limited to around 10A.

I'll second this.

 

[Brownsfan]

Both. It's how it works here at the Garage Journal. Or get a meter that does it all. I have a Klein CL2000 DAMM clamp meter in one. It does AC/DC amps and it's a true RMS multimeter

 

[jakgop21]

Residential ,commercial, And maybe one days some industrial work. I would like to be able to use on automotive if the need arose. Voltage, continuity,current , amp draw on breakers .

My dad used to have a fluke 87 automotive meter but got rid of it.

It was my understanding that I could get a DMM with a clamp attachment to do higher amp rating tests


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[fatfillup]

I use a clamp on meter most everyday. Had a fluke for years and it finally gave up the ghost. Have a Cornwell that works fine. Like the fluke better as you didn't get Phantom readings while you were hooking it up.

Have an el cheapo, HF I think, clamp on that is use at home and has worked fine.

Note, I don't need extreme accuracy as I am more checking to see if voltage is present and if its off by a few volts, rarely makes a difference. Same with amps. Note, I use it for ac and dc, so I need one that does both.

I prefer clamp on vs a separate clamp unit as I have it all in one.

 

[jakgop21]

Do yourself a favor and explain what you intend to use the meter for. You will get better feedback if you do.

If you want to buy Fluke - just say so. Nothing wrong with that.

I intend to use the meter for voltage , continuity , current ( on breakers) . If the need arose for automotive use I would like to if possible .
Mainly for residential , commercial and maybe possible industrial use electrical down the road .

My dad use to have a fluke 87 automotive meter but got rid of it .

It’s my understanding I can get a current clamp for a dmm good for 400 amps .



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[Trey T]

For stuff around the house, I prefer a clamp meter. I've used both types but the clamp meter is much more useful in vast majority of cases.

 

[upsidedownone]

What brand do you recommend ? If fluke what dmm or clamp meter do you recommend ? I was looking at a 117/323 combo for just shy of $300.

If you’re willing to spend that kind of money, just go for the Fluke 87-V. Top of the line and should be able to handle just about anything you come across.

I intend to use the meter for voltage , continuity , current ( on breakers) . If the need arose for automotive use I would like to if possible .
Mainly for residential , commercial and maybe possible industrial use electrical down the road .

My dad use to have a fluke 87 automotive meter but got rid of it .

It’s my understanding I can get a current clamp for a dmm good for 400 amps .



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I think you may mean the Fluke 88. That’s the automotive DMM from Fluke. Typically, most people would never need something able to handle anything near 400A. That’s an insanely high amount of current. In my opinion, you should be able to use a cheap DMM from HF or amazon to do what you need to do, unless you do end up doing industrial electrical work. Though, at that point, you could upgrade to a more expensive DMM.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Uni-T digital Clamp Meters

Many to choose from. I have a UT210x or UT211x. Works fine.

UNI-T UT211B Clamp Meters 60A High Resolution AC/DC, True RMS w/V.F.C., NCV, Test Zero Mode, Current, Voltage, Resistance, Capacitance - Amazon $88

 

[Fly YX]

I have a fluke30 clamp and a Extech 380282. At my old job they needed to go to calibration every year and even though these are very old units they have always been good and had no problems. Because you are going to do commercial/industrial work like somebody else was saying get a good brand with cat. IV Rating and fused meter leads just in case.

 

[GirchyGirchy]

Buy a DMM and an external AC/DC current clamp.

 

[bcradio]

Buy a DMM and an external AC/DC current clamp.

I am not a fan of the external hook-to-DMM clamps personally.

I vote for a feature packed clamp meter myself. Love my Fluke 376 and all of its features. My 87v is nice also, but if I had to choose one it would be the clamp meter.

 

[engineer2]

For electrical work, look into the Fluke T5 and T6 series. They have the open jaw amp meter.

 

[HoosierBuddy]

I'm embarrassed to admit this, but I recently found myself in need of a clamp on meter to diagnose an issue at the house, and I needed this on a Saturday. I went to Lowes and bought a "Southwire" clamp on meter for $40. Took it home and tried to power it up. Didn't work. at all. The display wouldn't even come on. Took it back and got another one from the pile of these they had in the electrical section.

Took it home and it worked fine. Got my issue diagnosed and had good data to pass on to my electrician Monday morning. So...not saying I would recommend anything about the meter except "CHECK TO MAKE SURE IT POWERS UP BEFORE LEAVING THE PARKING LOT!". But...hey...$40.

Phil

 

[jl4c]

I am not a fan of the external hook-to-DMM clamps personally.

I vote for a feature packed clamp meter myself. Love my Fluke 376 and all of its features. My 87v is nice also, but if I had to choose one it would be the clamp meter.

I've nearly come to the same conclusion. My 87 has more counts (resolution) but I find myself liking the DC amp clamp of my 376 more and more.

 

[pepi]

Both, each has a specific use, especially if measuring high current.


Greg

 

[pedrodagr8]

If you are a home gamer and only want a trusted name, then Fluke is the most trusted name. If you work in industry that requires calibration, Fluke is almost a must (all shops can calibrate and adjust Flukes). If on the other hand, you want the best value, Fluke is almost never it. The Fluke 11x range is a HUGE rip-off, Fluke intentionally crippled every model in this line to prevent cannibalizing sales of their higher price meters. Is frustrating that you can't get a complete meter at this price point from Fluke. As such, at $100-150 there are much better meters out there from elsewhere. Truthfully, even the Fluke 87V from a features or safety aspect is a horrible value. That being said, with almost two decades of demomstrated reliability the price is more justified. I sold my 87V when I got my Brymen 869S and have not once regretted it.

The UT210E clamp meter is an almost impossible value to beat. AC/DC mA resolution for only $30. Hackable to higher counts (many hack it to 6000 counts and it still meets its listed specs).

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[scissorman]

I have and use daily a Fluke 375 amp clamp meter. If you need to be checking Amps on AC voltage up to 2500 Amps then go with a Fluke 376 which comes with the I-flex cable.

 

[anndel]

Those are great meters. They definitely both serve their purpose, when you add checking amperage draw on breakers you need a clamp meter. A DMM checking amps you have to put the meter in circuit, which means cutting the cable.

Clamp meters are generally slower to update and slower continuity, less accurate, than DMMs. For a clamp meter; I like my Klein CL700, it has more features and is very comparable in accuracy and speed of reading to my Fluke 324. The Klein also has great input protection, so if it blows up it won't hurt you. I think the Klein clamp meter is made by Uni-T.

For DMMs, I ONLY like Fluke. I've tried other brands including some very highly recommended meters, I always go back to Fluke. The quick beep on diode test is something that I really like, I think Fluke is the only company that does it. Continuity is always quick on Flukes, the standing bale on them are solid. The 117 is a Chinese Fluke but the build quality could fool even the most picky. The probes aren't great, they're better than most but get yoursel some silicone leads/probes, it's worth it. Brymen's probes are really nice too, the gold tips are great on those.

You could also consider going used with Fluke. I've bought several used Flukes, I've found some with issues but test it while you can return it. Flukes don't really need calibration, they just don't drift like other brands do. There are some great Fluke meters that you can buy at or under $100 used. Fluke 112, USA made, small and good feature set sells for around $75. Fluke 83 and 85, 87 or 87III are around $100. Then buy the Klein CL700 or CL800, I bought my CL700 like new for $50 shipped on eBay.

Yeah, I like my Fluke DMMs:

That' a lot of Flukes. Did you have or use the one from the 1980's that had the slide buttons instead of the dial? I remember they had the LCD issues so I bought Beckmans.

 

[BMack37]

That' a lot of Flukes. Did you have or use the one from the 1980's that had the slide buttons instead of the dial? I remember they had the LCD issues so I bought Beckmans.

I've seen them but it was before my time. Actually some of my DMMs in that picture were before my time. The 27/FM's warranty expired when I was 5 years old haha. Some were inherited but some were bought used, the 27/FMs are my loaners to other Techs I work with...that brick will teach you to not forget your meter.

 

[Mark in Indiana]

I've been using the Amprobe ACDC400, digital clamp meter for years for industrial, home, auto, HVAC & appliance work. There are better meters, but this one does all I need.

There are a lot of good brands out there. Main thing, don't buy a cheapie. You'll end up throwing good money after bad when you upgrade to a good meter. A meter is not only a diagnostic tool, it can prevent an electrocution.