To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Do I **** at welding or does my machine?

ishiboo

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 27, 2010
Messages
9,481
Location
Oshkosh, WI
Hence why I had mr electrician install 220. Gotta upgrade the machine. I want enough juice where I can accidentally burn through 1/8". This machine claims 1/4" capability but I could sit on 1/8" with the trigger on all day and it wont burn through. Thats on a 120v dedicated outlet.

My first welder was a Handler 135 or 130, the previous or previous previous machine to the 140.

It is more than capable of working with 1/8 all day long.

I have a Millermatic 252 now, the power helps but you still have to know whatou are doing.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

ishiboo

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 27, 2010
Messages
9,481
Location
Oshkosh, WI
I fully admit my shortcomings as a welder, but its not a lie that the weld just builds up on 1/8". It wouldnt burn in or through. But maybe 35 wire is hurting it. I always thought larger wire burned hotter but I guess its too cold with this machine.

Larger wire has less resistance, so it produces less heat.

It's simple electricity - put a 10 gauge cord on a dryer, everything is fine... put a 18 gauge cord on a dryer and it will heat up and melt.
 

ishiboo

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 27, 2010
Messages
9,481
Location
Oshkosh, WI
Lot of great advice here! All gas bottles are set up to seat closed and fully open. The only bottle you don't fully open is acytelene incase of Fire. welding on concrete is bad idea. Concrete will have a ton of mostuire in it that will affect the back side of a weld using it as a backer. Also you will start noticing your floor will have surface cracks from rapidly heating the mostuire in it.
One thing I have not read in the responses is that welds have directional strength. It no surprise that you can break tacks apart. Your suppose to be able too! They are ment for fit up to be strong in one direction. This is why you have to tack in more than one place and why welds pull a piece in and out of square/plumb/level.

Agreed, there's a ton of good things here.

A big issue with concrete is it acts as a huge heat sink... carrying away the heat from the area. A small piece of copper is used because the weld won't stick to copper. Copper is an excellent conductor, but you are dealing with a few grams of it versus 20 tons of concrete.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

taumac

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 30, 2011
Messages
8,104
Location
Brooksville, Fl
I currently been welding up few projects. I was running .30 flux in my Lincoln 140. I ran out and used my 75/25 mix and .025. I'm welding on bed frame with tiny gap and was getting good penetration. It's .025 on 10 gauge metal so I wasn't expecting the world. I usually save my solid wire for my good metals and doing sheet metal electing to use flux on bed frame. I found .30 works better than .35 in my experience. Like others said run 030 solid if on the gas, close up your gap. If beveling edges I wouldn't leave a gap if not beveling leave a small gap. I use a small screwdriver to set my gap. Bed frame is usually free and it's good practice. That said its also PIA to work with and found dailing in machine helps. Play around with some scrap playing with speed, wire feed and temp. You'll get it.
 

nimrag

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 11, 2014
Messages
57
Location
Phoenix, Az
I have a Hobart 140 and all I have ever used was .035. With flux or solid, I haven't had any problems with penetration, even on 1/4". You mentioned earlier that you where using the 4 out of 5 power setting. Mine only goes to four, but it 10 or so years old.

Are you using an extension cord or plugging into an outlet? I did have a similar problem you had once. I was doing some stuff for a friend at his house. He had plugged my welder in with his 16 gauge extension instead of my 12 gauge cord. I didn't notice until I pulled the trigger.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom