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Do I need 15 gauge for baseboard?

marlinspike

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I am doing shoe molding and baseboard. I understand I need an 18 gauge nail for the shoe. Do I need 15 gauge for the baseboard? The walls are plaster (rock lath) and the baseboard is 4.75" tall with a simple 1/2" plunge roundover cut in the top.
 
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Cope

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I would use either 15 ga. or 16 ga. Usually the 15 ga guns are angle head and the 16 ga are straight.
 

finn

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I brought a 15 gauge to supplement my 16 gauge.

Not enough difference to matter, in my opinion.

I consider the 15 gauge a bad investment on my part.

A pro may have a different opinion.
 

uncletater

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China Grove, NC
15 is great for base. 18 i would be afraid it would pull away unless you glue and shoot the base.

I purchased the 15 angle and have never looked back. It is the first finish gun I always grab

I also have a 16 (sits in the box 90% of the time) the angle on the 15 is easier to work with in my opinion.
 
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marlinspike

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With the 18 not being yet shipped, can I do the 15 on the shoe molding, or do you really need to have both?
 

bmwpowere36m3

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We've used 18ga brads for all the trim in the house, 3 homes so far. For baseboard I take the extra step using a stud finder. Shoots 2" brads without issue.
 

The Cobbler

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How thick is your base? 3/4"? if yes, add 3/4 plaster to it and you only have 1/2" penetration into the studs with a 2" 18g nail. 15 or 16 g will allow a 2-1/2" nail so would penetrate 1" into stud.
IMO it's more about depth of penetration than gauge . 18 g has less of a hole to fill too, if that is a concern
 

stage20

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i work construction and ive never seen a trim guy on a job shoot down trim with 18ga. all doors, crown and trim get shot with 15ga. 2" 18ga would be ok if in a stud, but who wants to paint and caulk again if it comes loose down the road.

piece of mind is what i say. 15 ga
 

Robinson1

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i work construction and ive never seen a trim guy on a job shoot down trim with 18ga. all doors, crown and trim get shot with 15ga. 2" 18ga would be ok if in a stud, but who wants to paint and caulk again if it comes loose down the road.

piece of mind is what i say. 15 ga

I'm a general contractor. Base should always be nailed to the studs. A 15 ga nail into drywall holds no more than an 18 ga does.

To the OP on plaster lathe you can get by shooting into the wall but it really adds no more time to slide down the wall with a stud finder in one hand and nail gun in other.

18 ga is good for shoe, lattice trim, and small decorative stuff.

16 ga for base, crown, chair rail, interior doors.

15 ga for exterior applications. Thick base or really wide crown. Good for face nailing hardwood.

If you are only going to have one gun buy a 16 ga.
 
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marlinspike

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I'm a general contractor. Base should always be nailed to the studs. A 15 ga nail into drywall holds no more than an 18 ga does.

To the OP on plaster lathe you can get by shooting into the wall but it really adds no more time to slide down the wall with a stud finder in one hand and nail gun in other.

18 ga is good for shoe, lattice trim, and small decorative stuff.

16 ga for base, crown, chair rail, interior doors.

15 ga for exterior applications. Thick base or really wide crown. Good for face nailing hardwood.

If you are only going to have one gun buy a 16 ga.

Can I use the 16 on shoe, or will it be too big?
 
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WheelsNT

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You need an angled gun for base. You probably want the 15 ga. Sounds like you are doing a two-piece base where base and cap is one piece and the shoe is the other. Don't do this, do a three-piece base, with separate shoe, cap, and board. The board is just a 1x4. The board does not have to be coped on inside corners, you just **** it. Nail the board into studs through the bottom 1/2" (will be covered by the shoe) and angled downward through the top surface (will be covered by the cap). Use the 15 ga. for this. The board is too stiff to follow bends in the wall, but with a separate shoe and cap it doesn't matter. Now do the cap. Cope the inside corneers and miter the outside corners. Use a dremel with the 543 cutting/shaping wheel to do the coping. The cap will bend to follow the wall, and will hide the nails on top of the board. Nail the cap into studs with your 18 ga. through the skinny part just below the top bump. This can't be seen while standing, so you don't have to be perfect filling the nail holes. Finally do the shoe, bend it to follow the floor. Nail horizontally into the base, this lets the floor move without making gaps in your trim. Horizontal nail holes are also easier to fill. Use the 18 ga. here as well. Again, cope the inside corners and miter the outside corners. Find a place to get small packages of each size of nails that fit your 15 ga., probably 1-1/4, 1-1/2, 1-3/4, 2, and 2-1/2. You will use the 2-1/2 most, but you will find places where you need a specific length, and you will save a lot of trips to the store if you just get them all up front. Do the same with the 18ga. Then when you go through whatever lengths you use the most you can get a large package of those sizes.
 
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marlinspike

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Well, I certainly appreciate the information, but it will be 2 piece because I am only putting new baseboard to fill in where baseboard heaters were, and since that's how the baseboard in the house was done I need to do the same for it to match up.
 

thor80

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I am a cabinet and millwork contractor and have installed miles of base, I use a 15 and nail into studs when doing it for someone. When doing my own houses I use my pops old trick, put a bead of adhesive caulk down the back and then tack it on with an 18 gauge. Theres way less holes to fill and it will never loosen
 

rlitman

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I have pin, 18, 16 and 15 gauge nailers (and a framer), and I really hardly use the 15 gauge on molding. And I too suggest going with a 3-piece base molding. I cringe at thinking how you'll fit a 2-piece molding with a simple roundover on top to the curves of a plaster wall. Though I'm sure the roundover looks nice. I have a similar look in the 2-piece door/window casings in my house.

I really like the pin for keeping mitered outside corners aligned (pins shot directly in each end), but other than that, I don't use it much on paint grade molding (it has more use on stain grade).

Shoe molding gets the 18 gauge. I find that anything heavier is likely to split it, and the pin doesn't have enough holding power.

As for the base, yeah, you can probably get away with 18 gauge if you hit every stud, an if it isn't too sprung. Worst case, you pick up your hammer and nailset, and use some real nails at the problem areas if you only want to buy one tool.

The biggest issue with the 18 gauge nails is their limited holding power, not because of their size, but because of their lack of a real head. The 16 gauge are not much better, and to me, the only advantage I see to 16 gauge is that they shoot straighter (I've seen an 18 gauge nail do a complete U-turn before a knot, and come out next to the gun tip). The 15 gauge nails have real heads (that's why the strips are angled), instead of T heads. But you can always just buy a pound of finishing nails for the few and far between places you need this extra strength. And in any case, the bigger heads are more for you to deal with when it comes to paint prep.
 
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marlinspike

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Ok, thanks for all the help guys. I think I'll get an 18 ga nailer and just do the baseboard by hand (since the whole house needs new shoe but I only need to do enough baseboard to cover where the heaters were).

As far as how will 2 piece molding with over the curves of a plaster wall: whoever plastered this house back in 1967 was a master. After pulling off the wallpaper, the walls are are perfectly flat and eggshell.

So now I just need to figure if I'll get the Ryobi cordless electric one or the Bostitch kit I can get with a pancake compressor for the same price at my local Lowe's.
 

Jim Johnstone

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I bought a kit at home depot that came with a pancake compressor, 18 ga nailer, 16 ga nailer and stapler for barely anymore than the compressor cost. Lowes had a similar package.
 

Robinson1

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Can I use the 16 on shoe, or will it be too big?

You can shoot shoe with 16 just stay a couple inches away from the ends or you risk cracking it. Use a good woodglue. I like titebond but elmers glue max is good too and easier to find, at least in my area. Glue all your joints and miters it won't go anywhere
 

KnurledNut

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if its gonna be painted, 16ga. for both.
On that lath, id use 2.5s on the base and 2s on the shoe.
 
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marlinspike

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Since everybody has been pretty helpful and informed, any thoughts on getting the Ryobi Air Strike vs the Bostitch kit that comes with the compressor?
 
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