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Do I need a 3/4” Wright 6400 ratchet?

JRPAviator

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Apr 23, 2021
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Georgia
GJ,

OK, so I am getting a complete ratchet set together. Debating as to whether 3/4” drive is something I should do. 1/2 drive, USA, 24” ratchets are minimum $180. I can get the Wright 6400 and reduce it to 1/2” if need be for $120. Just trying to decide the upper size limit of my tool set. I’m thinking the versatility of 3/4 drive if I want to add big stuff later is worth it.

Thoughts?
 
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JRPAviator

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Apr 23, 2021
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Georgia
Hey JR,

I have had 3/4" drive (for too blame long, I'll tell ya)....when you need it? You NEED IT!

I used to use it a whole lot more, still do on occasion....

The ratcheting on a 3/4" is of course, much coarser than say a Cornwell Flex Head Long handle....

Later, Mark
Mark would you say a long handle (24” or so) 1/2” is worth it too?
 

msharley

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Sep 20, 2021
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Central Pennsylvania
GJ,

OK, so I am getting a complete ratchet set together. Debating as to whether 3/4” drive is something I should do. 1/2 drive, USA, 24” ratchets are minimum $180. I can get the Wright 6400 and reduce it to 1/2” if need be for $120. Just trying to decide the upper size limit of my tool set. I’m thinking the versatility of 3/4 drive if I want to add big stuff later is worth it.

Thoughts?
Now....don't be afraid of looking on EBay, garage sales....etc....
 

msharley

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Mark would you say a long handle (24” or so) 1/2” is worth it too?
Hey J,

If you are going with 3/4" drive...well I have a 4' cheater pipe that I use on the end of my 3/4" breaker bar with some frequency!

So YES!

There is a set on Ebay, right now. NAPA. Looks new!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/165080274223?hash=item266f8d152f:g:jnYAAOSw9LhhPPQ8

3/4" Carlyle/Napa. 15/16" to 2" ...........12 point shallow sockets. Breaker Bar. Ratchet. Couple extensions.

$150!

Later, Mark
 

msharley

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Central Pennsylvania
Mark would you say a long handle (24” or so) 1/2” is worth it too?
Hey J,

Just rebuilt the front end of my '03 Crown Vic. The 1/2" drive Cornwell (not sure if it is 20" or 24"?) flex head was right handy.

I do not use it all the time....but........when I do!

1632370760257.png

27"! (looked it up in catalog)

Later, Mark
 

king nero

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Dec 27, 2010
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1,469
Location
Belgium
Got a 3/4" 22" or 24" ratchet. Very persuasive. I don't use it often, but when I do, the bolts listen!

Isn't an alternative for a 1/2" ratchet though. The weight alone makes it hard to "ratchet" bolts out.
 

CS454

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Oct 10, 2014
Messages
668
A 24" long 1/2" drive is where I'd stop if you don't do this for a living.

That said, if you like the idea of having 3/4" just buy a cheaper full set in metal box and put it on the shelf. At those sizes, the sockets being 12 point aren't really an issue.
 

FMB4

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Jan 19, 2017
Messages
2,926
I've had a cheaper 3/4" set of SAE tools for over 30 years. The difference between 3/4 and 1/2" drive breaker bars is huge. 1/2 inch breakers bars simply flex too much on really stubborn fasteners. I've only broken 1 six point socket over the years (7/8"). I'll be buying 3/4" metric sockets soon due to the fact that I no longer own any SAE vehicles.
 

vssjim

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Aug 5, 2007
Messages
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Location
McLean Va.
Hey J,

If you are going with 3/4" drive...well I have a 4' cheater pipe that I use on the end of my 3/4" breaker bar with some frequency!

So YES!

There is a set on Ebay, right now. NAPA. Looks new!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/165080274223?hash=item266f8d152f:g:jnYAAOSw9LhhPPQ8

3/4" Carlyle/Napa. 15/16" to 2" ...........12 point shallow sockets. Breaker Bar. Ratchet. Couple extensions.

$150!

Later, Mark
You can also get a longer handle for the ratchet through Carlyle as the hand just snaps in and out with pin
 

four.cycle

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Tacoma, Washington
JPRAviator-
How far down in California are you?
(I'm 11-12 hours from Redding if you drive fast.)
I have a Wright 631 SET (missing the 6408 extension and 6440 "Bull Bar"). Like new. Oily. Cheap.
Set weighs 60 pounds.
Let me know if you're interested.

(Ratchet works just fine, BTW, but I did get a spare ratchet repair kit from Wright "just in case".)
 

Mgdoug3

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Mar 2, 2018
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1,391
Location
KY
I would not put a 1/2" adapter on a 3/4 ratchet or breaker bar. It adds extra bulk which a 3/4 is already bulky enough and the adapter will be way too weak. I have a 40" PI split beam torque wrench with the breaker bar attachment.

I have a 24" SK LP90 that I got on sale for less than $140. It has saved me a lot of work in tight spots. There's also jobs that I know it won't be enough. That's why I have 3/4 drive. The benefit of a 24" ratchet is that it can get in tight spots and 90 teeth helps with the swing. The leverage is a plus too but I know I can destroy 1/2" if I use incorrectly.
 

seber

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May 31, 2016
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Deep East Tx.
When I was running farm equipment on the ranch, I needed a 3/4 set. Now for things around the home front and shop, it would be useless. If I really need torque, I use an impact. 1/2" is good up to around 1 1/2" sockets.
 
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bob15

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Dec 8, 2011
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Northeasten, CT
Here's the issue. All 3/4" ratchets that I know of (with the exception of the TOPTUL 3/4" extendable ratchet shown here:https://www.toptul.com/en/product-3...ith-Adjustable-Tube-Handle-Quick-Release.html are shorter than a long 1/2" drive ratchet so I don't see the point. Get a 24" long 1/2" drive is how I see it.
You forgot about the Wright 42" long handle and Snap On's 36" long handle that works just fine with either their ratchet or breaker bar heads.

The Snappy is nice because you can go from the 36" handle to the 20" by just swapping the head over
 

hudd1256

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May 9, 2016
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Location
Iowa
If your gonna get 3/4 ratchet either get a 42” Wright which I regret buying as it’s none to handy or the cheap extendable EZ red. If it’s under 36” 3/4 ratchets are just a waist of time.
 

65k10

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somewhere
If you aren't using large sizes where 3/4 is needed, a long 1/2 ratchet is probably more useful. That said, out of the 3/4 ratchets I have, the Wright 6400 is probably my favorite. It's usually long enough to get adequate leverage, but not so long that ratcheting something off becomes cumbersome.

I have a Snap-On L872 with both the short and long handles, but I don't use it as often. Mostly because if I need leverage I use a 1" drive Williams X-52A1 that I prefer since the handle flexes a lot less than the l872 when breaking something loose. I'm sure if I didn't have the 1" drive stuff, the L872 would be more appreciated and might be my first pick since having two handle lengths for a 3/4 ratchet is useful.
 

ThePostman

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Jan 13, 2020
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410
Location
Virginia
42” Wright 6425! Automotive setting, all kinds of uses, I've had a 4 foot pipe on it too, both directions. It is a super solid tool. If you're dealing in 3/4" drive in automotive setting, just buy this, all your breaker bar, bell housing, crank pulley needs and more.
 

quickfarms

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Feb 14, 2021
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Southern California
JPRAviator-
How far down in California are you?
(I'm 11-12 hours from Redding if you drive fast.)
I have a Wright 631 SET (missing the 6408 extension and 6440 "Bull Bar"). Like new. Oily. Cheap.
Set weighs 60 pounds.
Let me know if you're interested.

(Ratchet works just fine, BTW, but I did get a spare ratchet repair kit from Wright "just in case".)
If you are looking to sell the set how much do you want
 

four.cycle

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TJMtl

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Nov 8, 2018
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Montreal
Building my 3/4 drive set as we speak. Gray ratchet with 35" handle, Koken extensions, and Koken metric socket set. I dare my Jeep bolts to rust in place on me.
 

Schurkey

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Oct 27, 2011
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The Seasonally Frozen Wastelands
GJ,

OK, so I am getting a complete ratchet set together. Debating as to whether 3/4” drive is something I should do. 1/2 drive, USA, 24” ratchets are minimum $180. I can get the Wright 6400 and reduce it to 1/2” if need be for $120. Just trying to decide the upper size limit of my tool set. I’m thinking the versatility of 3/4 drive if I want to add big stuff later is worth it.

Thoughts?

Mark would you say a long handle (24” or so) 1/2” is worth it too?
For me, mainly automotive with some motorcycle, electronics and misc. equipment like snow plows:

>95% of the time, I'd MUCH rather use my Snappy SLF80A fine-tooth, flex-head 1/2" ratchet with ~24" overall length. Low back-drag...just a much nicer-to-use tool.

<5% of the time, 1/2" drive is not big/sturdy enough.

What you need depends on what you do.

I have just received a 3/4" Williams sealed ratchet head, and handle, H-51AB1 via Zoro. Using a discount coupon, and buying just before the price went up, I paid about $130. Drop-shipped from Williams, took two weeks to arrive. I haven't even used it yet. 36-tooth, considerable back-drag. The bigger problem is that the handle has a locking button that should secure it into the ratchet head...but it doesn't. The handle pops in or out without pushing the button.

Note that the Zoro page uses the WRONG PHOTO. This is the two-piece, head-plus-handle version, not the one-piece tool pictured.

Completely forgot about the extra-long handle. I suppose there'll be another Zoro coupon code...




I considered the Wright 3/4" ratchet, but I'm generally wary of round-head ratchets. They're great...until they break or wear the teeth machined into the head. This has not stopped me from buying 1/4, and 3/8 round-head roto-ratchets. Most of the time, I want a pear-head where the entire "guts" can be replaced with a repair kit.
 
Last edited:

four.cycle

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Oct 19, 2015
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^ hmmm.... I opened up the ratchet in that kit I sold to another member here (see post #27) and cleaned it up and lubricated it. You'd spend a lot of years wearing the teeth out in that thing from normal use.
 

ThePostman

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Jan 13, 2020
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Virginia
What you need is Wright 6425. When you need to go beyond your impact, and maybe something in the 2 footish range in 1/2” won't cut it. You can put a 4 foot pipe on this and have almost 8 feet. Honda crank pulley bolts, lug nuts, whatever is put in front of that, is coming loose or shearing. For auto, you're probably not using 3/4 drive in the tightest spots, so why not get this beast for when you need it. Best breaker bar (not really a breaker bar) ever by the way. I have broken many things, but not this one.
 

catalytic

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Jul 16, 2011
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636
Location
Boston, Los Angeles, Cleveland
When you need to go beyond your impact

I have a complete Wright 3/4" socket/ratchet/breakers/adapters set up to 2-1/4". But, when I need to go beyond my impact, I pull out a 3/4" Curtis Wright/Powerhawk Swench. Usually when I need 3/4", I need a breaker or a swench, not a ratchet. I don't think I've ever even used my Wright 3/4" rat.
 

NC Fabricator25

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May 28, 2010
Messages
193
I’ll second what other posters have said along the lines of when you need it, you need it. I can’t recall every pulling it out for automotive work, it’s normally equipment, tractor, etc. And, truthfully not that often. Most recent use was with a shop made “socket” to remove a valve from a stubborn 100lb propane tank which was ratchet strapped to a tree with 3 ratchet straps. Had a 6ft cheater on the ratchet. Bottom line, when you’re really laying into it the flex of a 1/2” would be a deal breaker, for me at least. On the other hand, using it to “ratchet” isn’t a fun process….it’s coarse, tiring, and you need room to swing. I think it more as a position changeable breaker bar in reality.

My set was pieced together from the early days of eBay, 95% Proto, a couple of Allen/Napa/KD bought on short notice, 7/8”-2” SAE, and 22mm-50mm metric. I’d venture that I have $400 in everything in the drawer (3/4 related, there’s a few 1/2” drive items and torque wrenches residing in there as well).

My take, if automotive work is the most you’ll tackle get a nice 1/2” long handle ratchet. If you deal in the world of industrial equipment, diesel, farm/ag/construction you need 3/4”.
 

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