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Do I need a gland wrench?

czgunner

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Oct 31, 2010
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568
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WY
I had my water main located because I couldn't find it and I want to know how to shut off the water to my house.
I tried knocking the cap loose with a punch but it didn't budge.
Can anybody advice to me what kind of tool I need? I'm guessing this is a cap or cover and the actual valve is under it?
Thank you!

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The Cobbler

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Niagara Region, Ontario, Canada
aren't there bolts in those holes ?
also are you sure that's something you are permited to do? here, if we tamper with city shut off & it breaks, homeowner is on the hook for repairs. and it's not cheap . depending on your frost line depth your valve won't be at the surface, you'll also need a water key
 
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czgunner

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Oct 31, 2010
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WY
aren't there bolts in those holes ?
also are you sure that's something you are permited to do? here, if we tamper with city shut off & it breaks, homeowner is on the hook for repairs. and it's not cheap . depending on your frost line depth your valve won't be at the surface, you'll also need a water key
I sent an email to the city asking, but what do you do if a pipe breaks on a holiday or weekend? Also, I don't see bolts in the holes. I can stick my finger pretty far in.
 

Wrench97

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Southeastern Pa
All water depts/companies have after hour emergency services.
They handle anything for accident damage to fire hydrants to main breaks including shutting off customers supplies when the line breaks underground before the indoor shut off valve.
 

Leaflessshadetree

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Don't ask.
To remove that cover clean out these holes 1682803305445.png.
Then you'll need a tool to turn the valve.
There should be no reason you need to do this.
You should have a valve where the water enters the building, probably inside the building.
 

Etchase

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Hawaii
If you are replacing the shut off valve going into the building you kind of need to turn it off at the meter. Or for any pipe problems between the two valves. Mostly all the “security “ involving this valve is to prevent you from turning it on, if they’ve turned off your water. You can usually buy one of the “special” tools. Ask plumbers or water dept. employees in your area for guidance getting one. They come in handy.
 
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czgunner

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WY
If you are replacing the shut off valve going into the building you kind of need to turn it off at the meter. Or for any pipe problems between the two valves. Mostly all the “security “ involving this valve is to prevent you from turning it on, if they’ve turned off your water. You can usually buy one of the “special” tools. Ask plumbers or water dept. employees in your area for guidance getting one. They come in handy.
OK, thanks. So this "head" is the valve and it's not a cover?
 

flat350

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illinois
Commonly called a curb box or a b box, normally the Mueller boxes have a pentagon head bolt in the middle to remove the cap. Then a b box key is used on the curb stop valve below, the valve can be shallow or deep depending on the frost line in the area.
 

Stuart in MN

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OK, thanks. So this "head" is the valve and it's not a cover?
If you're in Wyoming the valve needs to be down below the frost line, so that is just a cover. Underneath it you would just see a pipe, and the valve is down at the bottom of that pipe. The city guys have a long rod with a tee-shaped thing at the end called a key, they stick it down the hole to engage the valve.

As mentioned by others, typically there is a shutoff valve in your basement where the water line enters the building, followed by the water meter, followed by a second shutoff valve. On evenings and weekends one of their employees will be on call to respond to an emergency, but in most cases if you have a water leak you just go to the shutoff valve in your basement to shut off the water.
 

signcrafter

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May 9, 2012
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That is a cap on s 1" threaded pipe. There is a special tool to remove it but usually if you stick a screwdriver in each hole and then use another one to twist them it will break free. Or you could weld up a tool, just two pins to fit in the holes and a 12" or so handle on top of the pins to spin them.

Once you get the cap off you will need a shut off tool. The valve will be below the frost line but usually will have an extension on the valve. So it comes up to within a foot or two of the surface. You will have a difficult time finding a shut off but can take a chunk of 3/4" round stock and grind a 1/4" slot in the end to fit on the valve extension. Then weld on a T for the handle to be able to turn it.

Some of these can be stuck if they haven't been turned in years. If you touch it and break it then the water department isn't going to be happy with you and you will most likely get a nice bill to fix it. So just be careful when doing it.
 

Stuart in MN

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The valve will be below the frost line but usually will have an extension on the valve. So it comes up to within a foot or two of the surface.
This may be a regional thing, I've never seen one with an extension - the key has to be long enough to reach all the way down to the valve body. Also, as you can see in the photos the cap is nearly 4 inches in diameter, it's not a 1 inch pipe.
 

signcrafter

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This may be a regional thing, I've never seen one with an extension - the key has to be long enough to reach all the way down to the valve body. Also, as you can see in the photos the cap is nearly 4 inches in diameter, it's not a 1 inch pipe.
Actually, Yes the cap is 3-4" in diameter in the pictures but it screws onto a 1" threaded pipe. I've actually taken the caps off and have experience with these valves. It's called a Minneapolis curb stop, https://utility-technologies.myshop...key-with-fork-and-pentagon-wrench-handle-ends.
 
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