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Do I need a wire to breaker or alternative?

ps2cho

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Mar 19, 2013
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197
I am researching adding a minisplit to one room in the house. My central air heat pump is located next to the room that I want to add the extra minisplit to....problem is the breaker is on the complete opposite side of the house.

I dont have much electrical experience at all. Essentially am I looking at being forced to run a wire all the way from the other side of the house to accomplish this project, or are there any other alternatives available?

Is it to code to somehow be able to use the existing 220v wiring for the house heat pump since the minisplit I want to put in is small (9000btu, ~5amps)?
Earlier this year I replaced the whole house heat pump to a more efficient unit, so I assume the wiring would be able to handle it, but I dont know if thats against code and not an option?

I plan to hire an electrician, but trying to understand if this project is going to turn into an ugly nightmare or not.

Thoughts? Thanks.
 
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mike93lx

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You could replace the current a/c disconnect with a small subpanel and then feed both from it, if the wire running to it is sufficient.

Unless the run is very challenging (long isn't an issue on its own), I'd likely run a new dedicated circuit.

It's unlikely your current a/c circuit is rated to cover both
 

dave*99

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Coastal NJ
I replaced my 10 SEER central AC with 13 SEER years ago. I was able to drop from a 40A breaker to a 30A. I don't remember the details. But theoretically, that left some room for an additional load.

Would I do what you suggest? Nope.

The concerns others mentioned above are valid.

I'd run a new circuit if I were in your spot. And a separate disconnect for each unit. Don't forget the requirement for a nearby convenience receptacle.
 
OP
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ps2cho

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Ok thanks all.

It’s a 2300sqft house 2-story. I’m completely out of sync on contractors these days…to run a new wire from the other side of the house and disconnect box I imagine would be >$1k?
 
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mike93lx

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Ok thanks all.

It’s a 2300sqft house 2-story. I’m completely out of sync on contractors these days…to run a new wire from the other side of the house and disconnect box I imagine would be >$1k?
Entirely depends on complexity. Opening walls? How is panel access? What is permitting like in your area?

The materials are cheap. 100ft of 12/2 is about 50 bucks and the disconnect is $20. Breaker is anywhere from $10-50+. Labor could be 2 hrs, could be a whole day plus paying someone for drywall patching
 

dcg9381

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Austin, TX
I plan to hire an electrician, but trying to understand if this project is going to turn into an ugly nightmare or not.
It sounds like you're going to be running wire. I know that my 24K BTU mini-spits pull under 15A, so hopefully pulling wire won't be a big deal. Like any HVAC project they may need an external disconnect - that's the other thing you're going to want to look at. They're cheap.

I assume you've sorted out the drain and signal/control wires.
 

Dig Doug

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Apr 16, 2018
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Get an electrician out to see what they can do

ask some questions take notes and get a 2nd quote.

Let the company know you’re looking for a written estimate when scheduling the appointment!
most of the time they say its 2-3 hours and I can do it right now, that can be a pressure sale.

if you plan to have an HVAC contractor out to install the actual AC unit, meet with them 1st so they can tell you where the best locations are to mount the new disconnect. The AC company might have an electrician they can recommend

Note - the electrician will need the specs for the actual unit your going to install
 

Zeke

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Long Beach CA, the sewer by the sea.
You ask questions about cost and complexity and yet don't say whether you have an accessable attic or crawl space. Folks here are not clairvoyants. If at all feasible I'd run the dedicated circuit.

AFA contractors go, there are a couple ways to find a decent one. First, survey your neighbors and friends. Even your acquaintances. People love to tell how they got a deal. If you see an electrician working, jot down the number and call. Don't bother him on the job. I hated that and never got a job as a result of a nosey neighbor.

If you have a decent sized hardware store, they usually know someone. They know that if they recommend a dud it will get back to them. I try to deal with owner operators. Companies with big fleets are either very commercial or big on upselling, often times putting the electrician in the truck on a commission. They are the worst but they will come out 24/7.
 

kaffine

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Dec 13, 2009
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Henderson, NV
I doubt it has a neutral.

As long as everything on the new subpanel is 240V I don't see a need for a neutral. Although there is an issue that you need a 120V outlet near HVAC equipment now so if there isn't an outlet nearby that covers that then you will need a neutral to add a 120V outlet.
 

FredWanaker

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NorCal
we need specs and instructions on the unit and more knowledge of your house, your panel and what spots are available in it. You will probably need to pull a permit also.
 
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