Do I need more bracing?

[vt700guy]

I've been slowly refurbing my old garage. To begin with I replaced the old rotting seals and studs with new 2x4's. Next I pulled down the storage area that had been added but was a major eyesore and seemed to be stressing the garage. Finally I have added some bracing on the ceiling with 8' 2x4's.

My question is rather I need to add some 2x4's that run cross ways lower at the top of the wall level. I'd love to go with what I have because it gives me a lot more head room and the possibility of adding a lift down the road after I replace the concrete.

I have included some pics of what it looked like before compared to what I have now.

BTW, the garage is 20x25 and I'm in Oklahoma.

 

[readhead]

Is there any kind of shear bracing in the walls? I see bracing in the end wall. Is there any in the side walls or sheeting on the outside? I see that the roof has sheeting installed on top of the skip sheeting. That's good. The 2x4's you installed aren't doing much. For a rafter tie to be effective it has to be installed in the first one third of the total rise. Those are to high.
You can get some quick, easy shear in those walls by installing some Simpson straps per their instructions.

 

[vt700guy]

Right now I have 2x4's screwed into the studs at an angle from the floor to ceiling on the side walls, and regular wood siding on the outside. My future plans include insulation and sheet rock, at which point I will run the diagonal bracing between the studs.

I will take a look at the Simpson straps.

 

[theoldwizard1]

The roof and the rafters are trying to push the top of the walls out. The joists, regardless if they are at the top of the wall (ceiling joists) or 1/3 or 2/3 of the way up the rafter (rafter or collar tie), prevent this from happening.

What you really want to know is if the top of the wall is bowed out. If the original bottom sill plate was in position, you would simply measure the distance, left to right, from the inside edge of the bottom sill plate and compare it to the measurement at the inside edge of the top sill plate. They should be less than 1" difference. If it is, attach a come-a-long to the top, place some tension on it, remove the joist /tie and crank it in.

The rafter appear to be 24" OC, correct ? Are the rafters 2x4 or 2x6 ? Are the collar ties 2x4 or 2x6 ? If everything is 2x6, you are probably okay. You really want 3 or 4 nails where the collar tie connects to the rafter, but you probably can't get that because you did not cut the end of the collar tie to match the pitch of the roof.

That roof looks heavy with both 1x6 and sheating. I would not put more than one course of singles on it.

Collar Ties vs. Rafter Ties

 

[theoldwizard1]

Is there any kind of shear bracing in the walls?

Good catch !

Traditional shear bracing (also called wind bracing) is "let in" to the studs, either on the outside before siding or on the inside. Typically they use a 1x6.

You can get some quick, easy shear in those walls by installing some Simpson straps per their instructions.

Check you walls for square before apply any kind of shear bracing.


Might as well do it right !

 

[vt700guy]

Yes, the rafters are 24" on center.

Both the rafters and the collar ties are 2x4's. I think I could easily add another screw to collar tie connections.

 

[vt700guy]

Good catch !

Traditional shear bracing (also called wind bracing) is "let in" to the studs, either on the outside before siding or on the inside. Typically they use a 1x6.



Check you walls for square before apply any kind of shear bracing.


Might as well do it right !

Is the method used for the shear bracing on the back wall that you can see effective? That is the last wall that still needs new seal plates and studs and I had planned to copy that method using 2x4's throughout the garage.

 

[readhead]

Nails, not screws.

 

[readhead]

Straps or let-ins will be a lot easier.

 

[vt700guy]

What size nails?

 

[readhead]

16d box nails.

 

[vt700guy]

Awesome, thanks!

So just to be clear, I need to make sure I have shear bracing in the walls by way of either straps or let-ins, and for my ceiling I need to add some rafter ties within the 1st 1/3 of the rafter?

Thanks for all your help guys, I know just enough to be dangerous on this stuff, but I'm eager to learn the proper techniques.

 

[readhead]

Not the first third of the rafter. The first third of the rise per the sketch in the previous post. Everything should be nailed not screwed. Screws do not have near the shear value of nails.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Is the method used for the shear bracing on the back wall that you can see effective?

I can't tell from the picture.

The traditional method is a 1x6 running on a 45° angle from the top plate in each corner down to the bottom plate, let in and nailed to every stud it crosses.

 

[vt700guy]

Going to pick up some 2x6's for rafter ties today. Do I put them on the same 24" oc spacing as the rafters?

 

[readhead]

Yes.

 

[volleyball]

I would opt for 2x8's for the ties and also for rafters, alternate between your 2x4's.
I am guessing VT. by your name.
You want to insulate and sheetrock this space and it wasn't built for that. I see the OSB on top of the wood shake roof deck. I assume asphalt shingles on top with felt paper. That already is a lot of additional weight. You add a heavy snow and your nice space is junk.
I would use plywood sheets, AC grade in the corners well attached as sufficient shear wall. Be prepared to square the walls first. A bit of work but you'll be thanking yourself as long as you own it.

 

[rsanter]

IMO
You need to install OSB shear wall panels at least in the corners of the structure.

I also think you need rafter ties down a bit lower than you have or install them as an X with the 2x4 going from the rafter right above the top sill to midway up on the opposite rafter.

Bob

 

[vt700guy]

I would opt for 2x8's for the ties and also for rafters, alternate between your 2x4's.
I am guessing VT. by your name.
You want to insulate and sheetrock this space and it wasn't built for that. I see the OSB on top of the wood shake roof deck. I assume asphalt shingles on top with felt paper. That already is a lot of additional weight. You add a heavy snow and your nice space is junk.
I would use plywood sheets, AC grade in the corners well attached as sufficient shear wall. Be prepared to square the walls first. A bit of work but you'll be thanking yourself as long as you own it.

It did have wood shake shingles at one time with shingles over the top of them. A hail storm took out the roof and insurance paid to remove the wood shingles and replace with OSB, tar paper and shingles.

Thanks for the advise on the plywood. I'm a ways out from any insulation and sheetrock /plywood but I'll make sure I check in with you guys before I do it.

I'm in Oklahoma BTW.

 

[vt700guy]

IMO
You need to install OSB shear wall panels at least in the corners of the structure.

I also think you need rafter ties down a bit lower than you have or install them as an X with the 2x4 going from the rafter right above the top sill to midway up on the opposite rafter.

Bob

I'm picking up the 2x6's for lower rafter ties today.