Do i really need to lube my ratchets?

[bahcoswed]

I have just clean my facom 153 and test without anything and totally clean inside, i like it better how it works now...but is it any good for the ratchet? I have never test with red lube of love, what are that for lubrication? Another name/brand because RLL does not exist here in the north

 

[Craptain]

Really? Can't get RLL? I find that hard to believe, but.... But personally I use "Superlube" It works well and stays put. There are a whole bunch of other lubes that will work though, and I am sure you are about to hear about them.

 

[TwoInch]

RLL is "permatex engine assembly lube"

no you dont have to lube them.

if you want them to last, you should.

 

[allinon72]

Seems that the ratchet would last longer with some lubrication, but hey if you like the way it moves without, leave it.

 

[jakemac]

When I clean/rebuild an old ratchet, I use a VERY thin coat of SuperLube to prevent rusting. Otherwise, I just lube my working ratchets with PB Blaster. It'll make it's way inside, repel water, and keep things moving (and you still get that cool Klickity-Klickity sound).

With no lube the teeth in the ratchet will wear faster, and you run the risk of rusting and seizing inside (bad ju-ju).

 

[TwoInch]

When I clean/rebuild an old ratchet, I use a VERY thin coat of SuperLube to prevent rusting. Otherwise, I just lube my working ratchets with PB Blaster. It'll make it's way inside, repel water, and keep things moving (and you still get that cool Klickity-Klickity sound).

With no lube the teeth in the ratchet will wear faster, and you run the risk of rusting and seizing inside (bad ju-ju).

FWIW, PB blaster, wd40, Liquid wrench, etc... will work into the ratchet, but they will leave very little to no lubricant after a very short time. none of them are even decent lubricants, and are mostly propellant and volatile penetrants that evaporate off. very little lube is left.

dunking in atf or something like that is not ideal, but much better than a spray penetrant.

ratchets are so damn easy to open up, i cant imagine why anyone would drop some actual lube in them, even motor oil or 3-1..

 

[bahcoswed]

Permatex have i heard of So i buy that tomorrow! Any other lube? I have notice that some people use thin engine oil like 0w40 5w40 for fine tooth ratchets

 

[nanofrog]

Really? Can't get RLL? I find that hard to believe, but.... But personally I use "Superlube" It works well and stays put. There are a whole bunch of other lubes that will work though, and I am sure you are about to hear about them.

I can find RLL locally, but no Superlube on the shelves (which I prefer, so I have to order it online). Not sure why no one carries it, but even when I've asked, the counter personnel gave a expression.

FWIW, I found I can substitute Abu Garcia reel grease (same stuff, just a smaller tube, so it's not as economical).

 

[TAMPAGT07]

I think you'll get your nuts off with or without the lube...

 

[TwoInch]

Permatex have i heard of So i buy that tomorrow! Any other lube? I have notice that some people use thin engine oil like 0w40 5w40 for fine tooth ratchets

engine oil is fine. thicker engine oils will be better than thin.

but 0w40 and 5w40 are both 40 weight oils, not at all considered thin. a 40weight engine oil is the same viscosity as 80w-90 gear oil.

 

[TwoInch]

I can find RLL locally, but no Superlube on the shelves (which I prefer, so I have to order it online). Not sure why no one carries it, but even when I've asked, the counter personnel gave a expression.

FWIW, I found I can substitute Abu Garcia reel grease (same stuff, just a smaller tube, so it's not as economical).

superlube can be found at harbor freight and ace hardwares generally. you can also find it in the muzzleloader section of gun stores, it is used as a breechplug grease and sold by thompson center. like you mentioned, some reel greases are rebadged superlube also. one of those little tubes will last many ratchets, it doesnt take much.

 

[softailgarage]

I've got ratchets older than 50, never been lubed, work just fine. Hell, i wouldn't even know how to lube a ratchet.

 

[TwoInch]

I've got ratchets older than 50, never been lubed, work just fine. Hell, i wouldn't even know how to lube a ratchet.

they obviously have not been used day in and day out...

i love it when people claim no need for lube. all moving metal to metal contact needs lube. doesnt matter if its a sewing machine, axle bearing, door hinge, or ratchet gear. metal on metal will wear things out, anyone that claims otherwise is either slow, or trolling.

i have ratchets that have never been lubed too, probably 70 years old. still work too! but they were never used much at all. same ratchet, but used heavily? wore out completely.

 

[nanofrog]

superlube can be found at harbor freight and ace hardwares generally. you can also find it in the muzzleloader section of gun stores, it is used as a breechplug grease and sold by thompson center. like you mentioned, some reel greases are rebadged superlube also. one of those little tubes will last many ratchets, it doesnt take much.

I didn't think to check Ace (do have a couple) or remotely considered a gun store would carry it (NE LE, so these are just about as common as convenience stores ). Definitely worth a shot, so thank you for the suggestions.

Just tried auto parts stores, Grainger and Fastenal. None of them had it, then I thought about the reel grease, and could find a tube at Academy Sports (not a lot of selection vs. what I'm previously accustomed to, even for the population that's here). No HF stores for example, and I'm not even familiar with Thompson.

 

[woody 73]

Good question:

Some time back I bought a snap on ratchet from a fellow GJ member and I took it apart because it was not moving very freely; turns out the whole insides was a mess more like toast with extra rust and dried up rubber ring, that turned to dust.

I bet with a little lube from time to time it would have stopped the rust, kept the rubber from drying up and made the teeth last much longer.

Your call

 

[TwoInch]

I didn't think to check Ace (do have a couple) or remotely considered a gun store would carry it (NE LE, so these are just about as common as convenience stores ). Definitely worth a shot, so thank you for the suggestions.

Just tried auto parts stores, Grainger and Fastenal. None of them had it, then I thought about the reel grease, and could find a tube at Academy Sports (not a lot of selection vs. what I'm previously accustomed to, even for the population that's here). No HF stores for example, and I'm not even familiar with Thompson.

give the ace a call. give the gun shops a call and ask if the heave Thompson Center(brand) breech plug grease. no sense in wasting gas. the breech grease will be a small tube though, just like the reel grease.

 

[GRX]

engine oil is fine. thicker engine oils will be better than thin.

but 0w40 and 5w40 are both 40 weight oils, not at all considered thin. a 40weight engine oil is the same viscosity as 80w-90 gear oil.

Actually, they are only 40w oils at 212 degrees and above, which is what the second number represents. At the temps the ratchet will typically see (below 100) the respective oils' viscosity would be along the first number. And yeah, gear oils are rated differently. 80w90 is roughly same as 20w40.

Assembly lube is good. I usually employ some moly bearing grease and be done with it. My ratchets have been working flawlessly for decades.

 

[TwoInch]

Actually, they are only 40w oils at 212 degrees and above, which is what the second number represents. At the temps the ratchet will typically see (below 100) the respective oils' viscosity would be along the first number. And yeah, gear oils are rated differently. 80w90 is roughly same as 20w40.

Assembly lube is good. I usually employ some moly bearing grease and be done with it. My ratchets have been working flawlessly for decades.

wrong, its a 40wt oil, that has viscosity improvers that slightly improve the viscosity at low temps. the oil is not 20wt at low temps, it is simply less susceptible to as drastic thickening as a straight 40wt.

example. a 5w-20 is not the same at 212* as a 20w50 at 104*
0w-20
@ 104*(cold) 44.8 cst
@ 212* (hot) 8.7 cst

5w-20
@ 104*(cold) = 46 cst
@ 212*(hot) = 8.4 cst

straight 20wt
@ 104*(cold) = 54 cst
@ 212*(hot) = 8 cst

20w-50
@104*(cold) = 166 cst
@212*(hot) = 18.5 cst

straight 50wt
@104*(cold) =222 cst
@212*(hot) = 20.3 cst

very drastic differences. the lower number in a multi grade oil slightly decreases the amount of viscosity increase with temp drop. the big number is your oil weight. plain and simple

most 80w-90 gear oils are closer to 50wt engine oils, both are close though.

as for a ratchet, the thicker the better(for oil), and the base oil weight number is what is important. all Xw-50 oils will be thicker than Xw-30 oils, in all temp ranges, comparatively.

 

[GRX]

wrong, its a 40wt oil, that has viscosity improvers that slightly improve the viscosity at low temps. the oil is not 20wt at low temps, it is simply less susceptible to as drastic thickening as a straight 40wt.

Sorry but I have to disagree. The entire idea is to make the multi-grade oil have the viscosity of the base grade when cold, and the viscosity of the second grade when hot. This allows one type of oil to be used all year. A 20w50 oil is 20 weight on start up. As normal operating temp approaches those nifty temperature sensitive polymer molecules unwind to form long chains making the oil act like 50 weight.

 

[TwoInch]

Sorry but I have to disagree. The entire idea is to make the multi-grade oil have the viscosity of the base grade when cold, and the viscosity of the second grade when hot. This allows one type of oil to be used all year. A 20w50 oil is 20 weight on start up. As normal operating temp approaches those nifty temperature sensitive polymer molecules unwind to form long chains making the oil act like 50 weight.

disagree all you want. you are wrong. all the info is right in front of you.

you have the idea of how they work to allow the same oil to be used under different temps, but it does not work the way you describe it. nothing can make a 50wt oil as thin as a 20wt oil, both being at the same temp.

the first number is not the weight of the oil, even cold. its just another grading system for a certain viscosity range at a particular temperature. 20w does not equal straight 20 weight viscosity.

 

[sberry]

The NAPA is junk but the cheap thing with the long handle has been in hard service in a tool pool for 20 years and never lubed and works like it was near new. It sees only a fraction of the work it did in the day but has been the best ratchet I have owned.

 

[TwoInch]

Sorry but I have to disagree. The entire idea is to make the multi-grade oil have the viscosity of the base grade when cold, and the viscosity of the second grade when hot. This allows one type of oil to be used all year. A 20w50 oil is 20 weight on start up. As normal operating temp approaches those nifty temperature sensitive polymer molecules unwind to form long chains making the oil act like 50 weight.

explain to me this. what viscosity is a straight 0 weight motor oil at 212* ?

as in 0w-20

what does that zero correspond to?

 

[rusty65]

Maybe ratchets don't need oil but can it really hurt? I have a old plumb ratchet that was used so much the chrome was worn off not flaked and worn completely smooth and the detent ball got a flat spot worn in on it. And guess what the metal to metal parts have severely worn so much so that you can't use the ratchet in the on position. Because the ratchet has worn so badly in that position. I'm guessing no one oiled or greased it because the ratchet was bone dry when I opened it up. And I have put rebuilds kits in it no go it has worn the ratchet body not just the guts. So why not just take a couple seconds to oil the ratchet it might just make it last a little longer.

 

[oilfieldtrash4]

I'm not going out of my way to oil a ratchet. I'll spray a little wd40. If it helps it helps if not oh well. I'll just pick up another one for $5 at the local flea market. I don't buy big money ratchets.

 

[GRX]

disagree all you want. you are wrong. all the info is right in front of you.

you have the idea of how they work to allow the same oil to be used under different temps, but it does not work the way you describe it. nothing can make a 50wt oil as thin as a 20wt oil, both being at the same temp.

the first number is not the weight of the oil, even cold. its just another grading system for a certain viscosity range at a particular temperature. 20w does not equal straight 20 weight viscosity.

Actually it does work as I described. Think you misread what I wrote. Never did I say that we are making a 50 weight oil thinner. I said the polymers make a 20 weight oil thicker when hot.

>edit<
Sorry for getting off track here. In any event, the Amsoil webpage (and several other sources) agrees with me.

>> http://www.upmpg.com/tech_articles/motoroil_viscosity/

 

[JJThrasher]

You don't need to. It is a good idea though.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2

 

[Gary S]

^Agree. No, you don't need to lube your ratchets. Mine are 45 years old and still work perfectly and have never been taken apart, cleaned inside, or lubed. Putting lube in a ratchet guarantees that you will have to do it again to remove old lube and the gunk it collects. A good ratchet will last a couple of lifetimes without maintenance. You have to use common sense. Never leave them outside. Never toss them on the floor. Never use them for any job they weren't made for.
You treat them right and they will treat you right for longer than you will live.

 

[p0lar]

I recently tore down three of mine - since I keep spare bottles of half-full Castrol 10W-60 spec'd OEM for my car's motor around that I just can't seem to put into the car, that seemed to work very well.

 

[stonesfan68]

I have just clean my facom 153 and test without anything and totally clean inside, i like it better how it works now...but is it any good for the ratchet? I have never test with red lube of love, what are that for lubrication? Another name/brand because RLL does not exist here in the north

Search for Permatex 81950 a.k.a. Red Lube of Love or RLL

 

[treimers]

I think you'll get your nuts off with or without the lube...

I see someone else was thinking the same (ahem..) way I was.

When I saw this thread on the front page, all my browser displayed was

"Do I really need to lube my..."

All sorts of possible responses came to mind, but I had a hard time
not just pushing right ahead with the longest one I had...

 

[Gary S]

All sorts of possible responses came to mind, but I had a hard time
not just pushing right ahead with the longest one I had...

Responses like, "Real men don't polish their tools. They use them for what they were intended." ?????

 

[jmm]

I have just clean my facom 153 and test without anything and totally clean inside, i like it better how it works now...but is it any good for the ratchet? I have never test with red lube of love, what are that for lubrication? Another name/brand because RLL does not exist here in the north

I would guess you like it better than it was before because your ratchet still had the factory lube in it. That stuff turns into a beige paste that hardens and keeps the ratchet from functioning as well as it should. So, with all that gunk cleaned out, it would naturally feel better. My advice? Lube it. Superlube is great in Facom ratchets. All the ratchets I own with a Facom mechanism inside have Superlube, and I wouldn't dream of using any other grease, much less going without grease. Just try it.

 

[CWP1616L]

I lube my ratchets simply because I like the smoothness.

I can't deal with the sound of metal on metal.

 

[TwoInch]

Actually it does work as I described. Think you misread what I wrote. Never did I say that we are making a 50 weight oil thinner. I said the polymers make a 20 weight oil thicker when hot.

>edit<
Sorry for getting off track here. In any event, the Amsoil webpage (and several other sources) agrees with me.

>> http://www.upmpg.com/tech_articles/motoroil_viscosity/

read this chapter on BITOG. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-109/
hell, read the whole site. its great info, and will explain all of it and more.

if you reread your links information, it explains that the oil must pass the viscosity test for the W sae grade. the viscosity of an SAE 10w is not the same as an SAE 10 weight oil. they are two different scales and methods.

you are correct in saying the base of a mineral motor oil is a 10 weight in 10w-30. true synthetic 10w-30 is based with a 30 weight oil with little or no viscosity improvers, and is still much thinner than the mineral oil based 10 weight oil at low temperatures... in the end, it doesnt matter what the base is, what matters is the end product, and how it performs in reality.

believe what you will, but a 20w-50 oil viscosity is much higher that a SAE 20 weight oil, both at the same low temperature. the information is readily available, there is no reason to "think" otherwise.

amsoil is a good product, but their information and marketing **** is terrible. there is much better information out there. the vast majority of the oil information out there is full of misinformation. look at straight facts/specs, and not someone marketing explanation of how it "works"

 

[CWP1616L]

This has turned out to be a thread within a thread.

 

[treimers]

This has turned out to be a thread within a thread.

Sometimes things belong inside one another.
Often, a little lube helps get that sort of fitting up started...

 

[TwoInch]

Sometimes things belong inside one another.
Often, a little lube helps get that sort of fitting up started...

sorry about that fellas. seems to go that way sometimes.

 

[gary300]

I use Mobil Synthetic on my guns, and also my tools that need lube. Good stuff.

 

[Conductor562]

I can't tell you what the f*&king viscosity rating or optimum temperature range of them are, and I don't know or care what the molecular compounds are doing, but I can tell you this:

Some ratchets (tend to be fine tooth) prefer the RLL. Some ratchets prefer Superlube.

RLL is by proper name "Permatex Ultra Slick Engine Assembly Lube Item# 81950". Google it by it's proper name, order it, and it will arrive at your door in a couple of days. Use it sparingly or it will gum up your Fine tooth rat.

Superlube, well, it's just Superlube Synthetic grease. You can order it online as with the RLL or if you have a Harbor Freight near you, they carry it (mine does anyway).

Lube your ratchets! It may not be absolutely essential, but it will most likely be smoother and last longer. I've seen too many clunky rats turn butter smooth with a dose of RLL to believe I wasted my time doing it.

If you've never rebuilt a ratchet of the type that you're working on, ask someone who has. Bearings and springs can jump off into Narnia if you aren't careful.

That being said, some ratchets seem not to give a damn if you lube them or not. The Rotar made Kobalt/Titan rats work just as well dry as they do lubed. I still lube them though. Low tooth count ratchets seem to benefit the most from lube.

 

[treimers]

If you've never rebuilt a ratchet of the type that you're working on, ask someone who has. Bearings and springs can jump off into Narnia if you aren't careful.

Have to agree --- I've never taken apart a ratchet for exactly that reason.
When I was growing up, my grandfather used to buy a few junk clocks and watches for me. He'd have them ready for our arrival, when I would be sitting on the floor between all the adults.... screwdrivers in hand, disassembling clocks.

I learned very quickly that many a mainspring, counterweight, gear, and other tiny parts inside clocks also know exactly where Narnia is and how to get there in the quickest possible way!

I'm sure my grandparents were finding clock parts throughout the house for weeks after we left to go back home each year