Coach James
Well-known member
I see these for sale, but are they used much anymore?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KIVP1A/?tag=atomicindus08-20
Coach
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KIVP1A/?tag=atomicindus08-20
Coach
Do people still use these?
- Thread starter Coach James
- Start date
sberry
Banned
I m not sure but the 500 load tester is a super buy. Cost half that.
Why wouldn't they be? You really need a load on a battery to test it properly.
I use the cheaper Schumaker version and use it several times a year.
Michael_in_DE
Well-known member
I used my slightly older, larger version just a couple of weeks ago when my car wouldn't start.
On standard batteries yes.
With Li or non standard chemical ones NO.
It has it uses not only to check batteries but connections such as can you draw x number of amps at starter main connection, I use it often to test master switches on race cars.
With Li or non standard chemical ones NO.
It has it uses not only to check batteries but connections such as can you draw x number of amps at starter main connection, I use it often to test master switches on race cars.
OP
Coach James
Well-known member
DFB
Well-known member
Wow a hundred buckaroos 
Got one just like the OTC at the bottom of the page at the Tractor Supply for $15
I use an electronic one now though. I have the Solar BA9 but there others.
Got one just like the OTC at the bottom of the page at the Tractor Supply for $15
I use an electronic one now though. I have the Solar BA9 but there others.
454ragtop
Well-known member
Maybe (trying to leave an answer as vague as the thread title).
bob15
Well-known member
sberry
Banned
It's this HF.
sberry
Banned
BDT/NWMN
Well-known member
Yes; very often
sberry
Banned
Electrical engineer here. I have this same tester - there is no substitute for drawing real amps through a resistive load. I found that the analog meters on the tester are not that accurate - I use my fluke DC clamp meter to watch the amps and a multimeter across the battery to watch the voltage. I put the VM on min/max mode so it captures the minimum voltage and I can focus on watching the ammeter when running the test.
The electronic impedance/conductance testers have some value if you can trend the results. I have dozens of $20k battery strings at work and we take quarterly impedance readings and trend them in a database. Unless you're doing the same type of trending with your vehicle batteries, including recording the battery temperature when doing the test, those testers are not as useful on vehicle batteries as a resistive tester that applies a load.
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Eric29
Well-known member
sberry
Banned
Ya, this is in my top 10 of bargain tools, considering the cost of a batteries the rate of return is spectacular.
DFB
Well-known member
No its not it reads the CA CCA
joel63
Well-known member
What does the impedance reading mean as for as battery condition, and how does trending work?
My tester gives impedance readings, but they don't mean anything to me.
Any explanation you can give will be of great help.
driftpin
Well-known member
Yep, just used one last week. Only for maintenance of my 'fleet.' (that's personal family vehicles) It was a Snap-On. Belongs to my friend, at his shop.
My son has a decent one he bought new, I forget whose. I saw it in his garage, and asked if he had used it yet. He's not really a 'gearhead,' but he likes to try on his own, and will come to me and ask a question or two. We live < 1 mile-apart, so if I need one, I can easily get it.
My son has a decent one he bought new, I forget whose. I saw it in his garage, and asked if he had used it yet. He's not really a 'gearhead,' but he likes to try on his own, and will come to me and ask a question or two. We live < 1 mile-apart, so if I need one, I can easily get it.
Xcursion88
Well-known member
- Joined
- Apr 18, 2013
- Messages
- 785
Depends...a good multi meter can do the same if you know how to use it.
Chevrolet's with the side tiny terminals can be a huge pain in the *** to get bigger clamps on its just easier to put multi meter points on it.
I have a digital battery tester that is nice. Programming IN the cranking amps and it gives you a battery health and the alternator performance all instantly.
Chevrolet's with the side tiny terminals can be a huge pain in the *** to get bigger clamps on its just easier to put multi meter points on it.
I have a digital battery tester that is nice. Programming IN the cranking amps and it gives you a battery health and the alternator performance all instantly.
Eric29
Well-known member
A multi meter will just read the voltage. It can’t test the battery under load. I just replaced a battery that had a perfect voltage rating but it would not hold a charge for very long. A load tester would have shown that condition.
I have the Snap-On one (25 years old) and it has a clamp inside of the clamp for GM side terminal batteries.
The one issue with putting that much load on a battery you often kill the battery. It is a great tool to sell batteries.
But I find the 100 amp load does less killing and still gives me a good idea of the condition.
sberry
Banned
We ain't baking it till its dead, we pulling on it for a few seconds to see if its working. Similar to starting load. This is fast, no foolin, no extrapolation. Simple.
bobcatdan
Well-known member
I have a Vat 33 sitting in the shop. Can't say the last time I used it, but it's there.
Yep. Just bought one last year. Used it on all 7 of my "fleet" as part of the pre-winter inspection. The Optima in my truck wasn't up to snuff. Replaced it. The first single digit temperature morning I needed to go to work, I was glad I did.
Associated makes good stuff. They have a number of different models. Just don't get ripped off on scAmazon. Zoro sells it for the same price, free shipping, and always has a 20% off coupon.
Associated makes good stuff. They have a number of different models. Just don't get ripped off on scAmazon. Zoro sells it for the same price, free shipping, and always has a 20% off coupon.
jsaw
Well-known member
A healthy battery will maintain 9.5 volts for 15 seconds with a load that is half of the CCA of the battery for 15 seconds. In other words, a 600 CCA battery will not drop below 9.5 volts when a 300 amp load is applied for 15 seconds.
I am a bit sceptical of a load tester that only applies a 125 amp load
You could do just as well to connect a volt meter to the battery, disable the ignition or injectors, then crank the engine with the starter while watching the volt meter, as the starter will create at least 125 amp load if not more.
I am a bit sceptical of a load tester that only applies a 125 amp load
You could do just as well to connect a volt meter to the battery, disable the ignition or injectors, then crank the engine with the starter while watching the volt meter, as the starter will create at least 125 amp load if not more.
There is a very extensive article on Battery University comparing resistive load, impedence testers and the most sophisticated,multi frequency impedence testers. Like most batteries, it is not so much that the voltage drops but the internal resistance goes up. If you understand basic ohms law, the internal resistance is in series with the external load (the car). The voltage proportionally divides between the two. The more current the car pulls (lower resistance) more of the voltage is dropped inside the battery. As the battery ages, the internal resistance goes up and more of the voltage drops inside the battery. This is what conductance testers measure. They actually use tester supplied AC to do the test. They can do this with a hand held device, the battery does not have to be fully charged to detirmine condition. For more accurate results the most sophisticated testers run a series of tests at different AC frequencies. Those testers cost thousands so it is a resistor load or the simpler AC testers. It is good if you can take a base reading when the battery is new but they still are very good diagnostic tools when testing any battery. The Midtronics 100, 200 and 300 are supposed to be quite good.
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Provincial
Well-known member
Real world example of load tester vs. electronic tester:
My wife's Honda Pilot wouldn't start one day. Seven year old factory battery. I jumped it and told her to take it to the local tire chain store and get their best battery. She came home and said the store tested the battery and it was still good. I assumed that something had been left on and drained the battery. A few weeks later the same thing happened, and the again tire store reported that the battery was good.
The next day we loaded up for a trip with extra family members aboard. No start! I tested the battery with my HF load tester (like S Berry recommends), and it failed miserably. I jumped it and we went to the tire store, taking my load tester with us. At the store I got the manager to test the battery himself, and he declared it good. I then hooked up the load tester and demonstrated that it was, in fact, VERY defective. He was confused, and could not explain why there were different results.
I told him that being stranded because of poor diagnostics was bad for his business reputation. I understood that he was trying to get it right, but I demanded he sell us a new battery, as we could not risk being stranded while on a trip.
I think Corporate insists that they use an electronic tester to avoid the risk of using a load tester on a non-lead-acid battery and causing a failure and damage claim. I don't know why it failed to see that our battery was bad, but it doesn't put a real load on a battery, so how can it tell if the battery can't take the load?
My wife's Honda Pilot wouldn't start one day. Seven year old factory battery. I jumped it and told her to take it to the local tire chain store and get their best battery. She came home and said the store tested the battery and it was still good. I assumed that something had been left on and drained the battery. A few weeks later the same thing happened, and the again tire store reported that the battery was good.
The next day we loaded up for a trip with extra family members aboard. No start! I tested the battery with my HF load tester (like S Berry recommends), and it failed miserably. I jumped it and we went to the tire store, taking my load tester with us. At the store I got the manager to test the battery himself, and he declared it good. I then hooked up the load tester and demonstrated that it was, in fact, VERY defective. He was confused, and could not explain why there were different results.
I told him that being stranded because of poor diagnostics was bad for his business reputation. I understood that he was trying to get it right, but I demanded he sell us a new battery, as we could not risk being stranded while on a trip.
I think Corporate insists that they use an electronic tester to avoid the risk of using a load tester on a non-lead-acid battery and causing a failure and damage claim. I don't know why it failed to see that our battery was bad, but it doesn't put a real load on a battery, so how can it tell if the battery can't take the load?
jsaw
Well-known member
A carbon pile load tester puts a true load on a battery. I was told that there are internal "welds" inside the battery that when defective, will not show up with an electronic tester. If a true load tester is used, these faults will show up.