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Do regular handle-less pry bars work just as well for automotive use?

809

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"Automotive" pry bars have the handle and sometimes the striking cap. How many times is striking required during prying?

Wouldn't something like a pinch bar work just as well if you're not striking? Bonus is the other end can be used to align shafts and holes.
 
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speed bump

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They both have their uses. I like hanging off the handles and you tend to beat on pry bars a lot to drive them into places especially doing auto stuff. Also the square shank means they are less likely to roll on you.

Generally when I am using a sleever bar it's for the pointy end and it's rarely for an auto application.
 

kbeefy

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What is a 'handle less' pry bar? A punch?

I think I have about 10-12 prybars including at least 3 indexable ones. Seems like half the time I need a different one.
 

Fedwrench

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What is a 'handle less' pry bar? A punch?

I think I have about 10-12 prybars including at least 3 indexable ones. Seems like half the time I need a different one.
the classic jimmy bar:

 

richfinn

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the classic jimmy bar:


That's exactly what I have used for the past 35 years, plastic handles are overated IMHO, we tend to call it a "podger" though in Northern UK (or at least the older generation does).

I've beat and reground the ends dozens of times on mine.

I've got a 4140 skin wedge as a pocket prybar, I don't need no fancy handles I just use an old rag or put gloves on 🤣
 

Garcky

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I have three traditional crowbars in different lengths, including one that's quite small. I also have several flat-style prybars with one straight and one bent end. A couple of Jimmy bars of different lengths, as well. Then, assorted small handled prying tools. Oh, yeah, there's that 6' long digging bar with a flat chisel end. That's my brute force pry bar. It will move almost anything. I bought it to use when digging post holes. Since then, I have used it hundreds of times to pry stuff. I think it cost $35 at Menards.
 

dave*99

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I have three traditional crowbars in different lengths, including one that's quite small. I also have several flat-style prybars with one straight and one bent end. A couple of Jimmy bars of different lengths, as well. Then, assorted small handled prying tools. Oh, yeah, there's that 6' long digging bar with a flat chisel end. That's my brute force pry bar. It will move almost anything. I bought it to use when digging post holes. Since then, I have used it hundreds of times to pry stuff. I think it cost $35 at Menards.
I think that is the tool I call a shale bar. It is about 5 feet long.
I never used it on a car. But I suppose it would fit in the trunk.

1672774202676.png
 
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Garcky

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I think that is the tool I call a shale bar.
1672774202676.png
There are a number of similar tools, called by all sorts of names. Mine has a round mushroom-shaped cap for tamping on one end and a chisel point on the other end. Weighs about 20 pounds, and is made of high quality steel. It will even break concrete. A good tool to have. It also does a great job of prying at things. With a fulcrum, you can raise some pretty heavy stuff with it.

If used for digging or breaking rocks or concrete, you just lift it up a couple of feet and drop it. It's like hitting something with a 20-lb. sledge sharpened to a chisel edge. Pretty amazing, and not too much work to use really. Just lift and drop.
 

bwringer

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As ever, the correct answer is "you need to buy all the above".

They're different tools for different things. and yes, it is very common to need to beat on the end to get the bar into somewhere, or if you're using the bar as sort of a weird long bent drift when there are no other options. Very, very handy.
 

2ndGearRubber

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As ever, the correct answer is "you need to buy all the above".

They're different tools for different things. and yes, it is very common to need to beat on the end to get the bar into somewhere, or if you're using the bar as sort of a weird long bent drift when there are no other options. Very, very handy.

That's what they are for me, long bent punches.

I bought a few sizes from HJE, and they have their place. They're inherently superior in filthy enviorments as they clean up easier and grease/grime doesnt penetrate the plastic or comfy-grip handles. Downside is they narrow holding surface is less ergonomic. If I'm yanking repeatedly or loading my body weight on something, a 1" diameter handle is much easier on the wrist/forearm than the narrow metal bar itself.
 

crewchief888

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Diesel tech, 18" standard crowbar is my go to.
36" OTC round bar is my most used followed by a mayhew 40" hex. mayhew hex 18"
real prybars dont have handles.🪛
i dont even carry a tanker bar in my truck anymore, i have a piece of 1 1/2" pipe about 6 ft long with one end smashed flat for my "big" bar
 

fatfillup

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I deal with more diesel and equipment techs and they will have a variety of all kinds, well except for the digging iron and shale bar. Well, I have come across even a couple of those.

I will say that striking handles are desired by most techs.
 
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ecotec

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I think that is the tool I call a shale bar.
1672774202676.png
I always called it a spud or pinch point bar.

Mine have business ends made out of carbide. I don’t remember ever using one on a vehicle. Mine are home made.

I use mostly the normal Wilde (Craftsman branded) and Mayhew pry bars with plastic handles… but I have jimmy bars, lady foot pry bars, flat pry bars, goose necks… and a bunch of other styles…
 
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dave*99

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I always called it a spud or pinch point bar.

Mine have business ends made out of carbide. I don’t remember ever using one on a vehicle. Mine are home made.

I use mostly the normal Wilde (Craftsman branded) and Mayhew pry bars with plastic handles… but I have jimmy bars, lady foot pry bars, flat pry bars, goose necks… and a bunch of other styles…
The one I have is 5 feet long. I can say it fits in a car - but I never had the pleasure of using it ON the car.
 

four.cycle

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^ the nomenclature on the larger bars is all over the map: spud bar, crow bar, railroad bar, pinch-point bar... there are a plethora of different designs.
we have used the small 5-foot bar on a couple "car" jobs. never had to put the 6-footer on any automotive stuff yet.
 

f121

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Striking cap is useful, pry bars get used as a chisel quite often. For me a 18” hard handle pry bar with striking cap covers 95%.

I’ve seen the snap on heel bars on offer a few times, but haven’t yet had the day where I’ve been stuck without one.
 

NUTTSGT

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36" OTC round bar is my most used followed by a mayhew 40" hex. mayhew hex 18"
real prybars dont have handles.🪛
i dont even carry a tanker bar in my truck anymore, i have a piece of 1 1/2" pipe about 6 ft long with one end smashed flat for my "big" bar
Heavy equipment repair, you guys need some big *** bars for what you do. Whole different ballgame than automotive work.

:beer:
 

Blueshound_GJ

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I prefer a plastic handle with striking plate for automotive work. Easier on the hands than bare metal, especially in extreme use or hanging off it.

Exception was an old 5 foot long tractor axle with a pointy end, mostly used for levering lower control arms to pop the ball joint loose. I used that thing most every day.
 

CS454

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I just hammer the gooseneck of my crowbar. No fancy strike cap necessary. ;)
 

Garcky

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I always called it a spud or pinch point bar.

Mine have business ends made out of carbide. I don’t remember ever using one on a vehicle. Mine are home made.

I use mostly the normal Wilde (Craftsman branded) and Mayhew pry bars with plastic handles… but I have jimmy bars, lady foot pry bars, flat pry bars, goose necks… and a bunch of other styles…
No, there aren't many uses for one of those on cars. Some, but not many. They can make short work, though, out of prying something loose that doesn't want to come loose, but only if you can find a way to get the tool where you need it to be. I've also used a bar like that to shift an engine over a tad so it drops into an engine mount. Things like that. They're great for digging holes in hard clay or breaking rocks down in a post hole. That's what they're for, after all.
 

ecotec

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No, there aren't many uses for one of those on cars. Some, but not many. They can make short work, though, out of prying something loose that doesn't want to come loose, but only if you can find a way to get the tool where you need it to be. I've also used a bar like that to shift an engine over a tad so it drops into an engine mount. Things like that. They're great for digging holes in hard clay or breaking rocks down in a post hole. That's what they're for, after all.
I use them for ice fishing. I have never had an auger.
 

BDT/NWMN

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Erskine, Mn
I have an assortment of the various "Normal" store boughten bars mentioned above. My most used are those without a striker cap handle, but I do have both. Snap-On heel bars also get used allot, along with prybars of numerous shapes and sizes that were screwdrivers in their previous life, and occasionally an eight-foot 2X4, and prybars custom made from steel pipe, shafts, a tubing.
 

tdkkart

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Eastern Iowa
Dad is 85 years old, been a mechanic on everything from Navy Destroyers to giant earthmovers to cars, pickups, school buses, motorcycles, minibikes, pedal tactors and bicycles. Got a fair number of prybars, not a single one has a handle.
 

Wrench97

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Southeastern Pa
There are a number of similar tools, called by all sorts of names. Mine has a round mushroom-shaped cap for tamping on one end and a chisel point on the other end. Weighs about 20 pounds, and is made of high quality steel. It will even break concrete. A good tool to have. It also does a great job of prying at things. With a fulcrum, you can raise some pretty heavy stuff with it.

If used for digging or breaking rocks or concrete, you just lift it up a couple of feet and drop it. It's like hitting something with a 20-lb. sledge sharpened to a chisel edge. Pretty amazing, and not too much work to use really. Just lift and drop.
Digging bar also useful for prying big truck springs into place..................
 

2oolhound

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BC Canada
I must have posted this 6 years ago when I snapped it.

PryBarsSm0126.jpg

Goose neck bars, alignment bars, pry bars and missing are the long ones 36" - 72" I keep in the rafters above me. Also a nasty 2" thick octoganal 4 footer with a point (bought for $5 just for the steel). I also scored a 40" pointed end with opposite bent foot that looks like it was in the ocean for several decades. It cost a buck. My buddy took me to a section of abandoned railroad track in the backwoods and I used it to pry some RR spikes up although if you looked hard enough you could have just pulled enough out with your fingers as the ties were that rotten.

We have many uses for bars of all kinds but my absolute favorite of them all has to be


.


.


.


The Al Bundy NUDIE BAR! ......Yippee!



897675465e79b1ae0c7c174cbed9c5a5.jpg
 
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